Wright writes.....

[Tony Teague]

Maybe slightly different aspect, but lockdown means that I have finally finished wiring in the newly printed 'face' of my Control Panel - sounds simple enough but every single switch and lever had to be dropped out of the previous temporary panel and then remounted, plus every single LED was replaced as I took the decision to switch from 5mm to 3mm LEDs and where they were bi-colour (red/green), to switch from 3 wire to 2 wire LEDs.

 

 

In the past I have had considerbale help with this, but the lockdown meant that I either sat and waited, or I got on with it! It feels great to have finished but I never want to solder another LED.....!

 

To ease the pain, I have also built a few wagon kits, which I regard, by comparison, as a form of 'instant gratification'.

 

 

Tony

 

[Arun Sharma]

1 hour ago, Tony Wright said:

Good evening Robert,

 

My pick-up arrangements are all the same, really. .45mm nickel silver wire soldered to PCB pads fixed (with epoxy) between the frames. The wire then rubs on the rear edge of the insulated drivers. Most of my chassis are live. 

 

 

D16/3.

 

 

A2/2.

 

 

SR H16.

 

 

Princess Coronation. This has insulated wheels both sides, so the PCB pads are split in the middle.

 

 

B17.

 

 

D2.

 

 

V2.

 

The arrangements are all variations on a theme, but the principle is consistent.

 

Some wipers just rub on the rear edge of the flange, but others have a curved end to wipe on the rear of the tyres (the latter, probably superior).

 

For added protection against shorts, some are sleeved with small-bore plastic tubing. This is available as MERCONTROL 1015 PTFE Flexi-Tube, from GEM. www.lytchettmanor.co.uk

 

I hope this helps.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

 

 

Tony - Do have any particular views on the strength/springiness of equal thicknesses of phosphor-bronze wire versus nickel-silver wire as used in pickups?

 

Arun

[Barry Ten]

5 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

 

 

Do others think they've been able to make more during this time? If so, please show us.......

 

Much of my modelling time has been spent tidying up the layout room and generally taking care of those less glamorous jobs that still

fit into our hobby. I haven't built any locos or rolling stock but I have spent a lot of time getting areas of the layout up to a better state

of completion, including a few more feet of point rodding.

 

 

 

 

Al

[Clive Mortimore]

50 minutes ago, Tony Teague said:

Maybe slightly different aspect, but lockdown means that I have finally finished wiring in the newly printed 'face' of my Control Panel - sounds simple enough but every single switch and lever had to be dropped out of the previous temporary panel and then remounted, plus every single LED was replaced as I took the decision to switch from 5mm to 3mm LEDs and where they were bi-colour (red/green), to switch from 3 wire to 2 wire LEDs.

 

 

In the past I have had considerbale help with this, but the lockdown meant that I either sat and waited, or I got on with it! It feels great to have finished but I never want to solder another LED.....!

 

To ease the pain, I have also built a few wagon kits, which I regard, by comparison, as a form of 'instant gratification'.

 

 

Tony

 

Cor Blimey Tony

 

That makes my control panel look inadequate. 

[Clive Mortimore]

8 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

With the recent observations about the BR green of Bytham's locos, I've taken the following shots by way of comparison...............

 

 

 

I think the slightly raking light is natural enough. So, 'you pays your money and you takes your choice'..................................

 

Any comments, please? 

 

 

 

 

Hello Tony

 

BR painted their diesels in the same green as they did their big passenger steam locos. When I look at colour photos of diesels at loco sheds, if two in the same photo are the same shade there could be something wrong. They normally appear in a similar green but not always the same green so I have come to the conclusion none of my green locos are in the wrong green or possibly the right green but look OK to me and will run on my layout.

[DougN]

Thanks for the pickup photos Tony. As most know  have been building the V2's, yesterday I sat down to build my most hated item on the chassis..... the brake gear,  as I always manage to get it to work perfectly every time.... ie the loco is stopped dead by it! So I am being extremely careful. (I can hear murmurings from the back of he "started with pickups") I think the photo below perfectly sums up the great design by Martin Finney.... but what about the room for the pickups! 

 

yes there is pull rods that go back on themselves leaving precious little space for pickups let alone space to get some copper clad to mount them on! 

[Tony Teague]

7 hours ago, Clive Mortimore said:

Cor Blimey Tony

 

That makes my control panel look inadequate. 

 

Well I don't know - you beat me hands down on twiddly knobs!

[Tony Wright]

9 hours ago, Erichill16 said:

Tony,

Thanks for the prompt reply. I’ll get cracking tomorrow.

I don’t know if you’re building the 8F just because they ran in your neck of the woods  or because you particularly like them but I do like them. I hope you’re  getting well recompensed for the other two though!
Regards 

Robert

 

Good morning Robert,

 

I do like 8Fs; I saw hundreds of them as a 'spotter, some on summer Saturdays at Chester heading excursions for the North Wales Coast. 

 

I can't say I remember them on the ECML, but they regularly ran through my grandparents' village (North/South Anston) on their way to/from Dinnington Pit. 

 

My building of the GWR locos is as a sub-contractor for Geoff Haynes. Like all the best builders/painters, his order book stretches (years) into the future. Without being insensitive (I hope), many blokes who commission work might not have many years ahead of them. Thus, Geoff asks me to build locos for some of his clients. The clients know it's my building (and are very happy!) and, when complete, Geoff paints them. I'm 'paid' by Geoff by his painting locos for me. 

 

It works very well!

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[grahame]

Here's another N/2mm building that I've knocked up over the last few days:

 

It's a pretty dull and unremarkable office block type building - I don't think it even has a name. And, as usual, it is compressed and simplified, is not fully finished and is made from mountboard card and brick embossed plasticard. It fits between two other buildings (as in the pic below) with Telephone House (on the left) and Fielden House (on the right) to complete a row. And this, the effective layout viewing side, is not the more decorated front of the buildings making them rather plain.

 

Although not in the background it is a backdrop to a more attractive Georgian terrace of railway offices with a mansard roof that I've also made and bridges two levels up to the station forecourt area. Much of the bottom half of this row won't be able to be seen when on the layout being behind the 4-storey Georgian terrace and as there is only a narrow access road between them. 

 

 

I believe it is important to also model and feature the ubiquitous, plain and ugly (and often essential) things on layouts rather than just focussing and featuring the twee and unusual.  Consequently I'm prepared to have a go at making them, even with my limited abilities. And lockdown/self isolation is a great opportunity to get on with it.

 

 

[Tony Wright]

8 hours ago, Arun Sharma said:

Tony - Do have any particular views on the strength/springiness of equal thicknesses of phosphor-bronze wire versus nickel-silver wire as used in pickups?

 

Arun

Good morning Arun,

 

I do - I cannot get on with phosphor-bronze. 

 

I'm sure it's ability to conduct electricity is second to none, but I can never get the 'springiness' right. It's not as robust as nickel silver, and I find it far more difficult to adjust. 

 

At the Glasgow Show earlier this year, I was handed a couple of locos built by others and asked 'Can you make these run?'. I've never seen such a mess of phosphor-bronze pick-ups - wiggled, bent, protruding here and there and utterly hopeless. I got them running, but substituted .45mm nickel silver in places. 

 

I don't know whether the pick-ups on some RTR locos are phosphor bronze, but, in my experience, they're equally hopeless - flimsy little things, with very weak springiness. The situation is exacerbated by there being so much sideways slop to enable the things to go around train set curves. I replace them with .45mm nickel silver.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[Tony Wright]

8 hours ago, Clive Mortimore said:

Cor Blimey Tony

 

That makes my control panel look inadequate. 

But it's adequate for your needs, Clive,

 

Surely, that is enough.......

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[Tony Wright]

7 hours ago, DougN said:

Thanks for the pickup photos Tony. As most know  have been building the V2's, yesterday I sat down to build my most hated item on the chassis..... the brake gear,  as I always manage to get it to work perfectly every time.... ie the loco is stopped dead by it! So I am being extremely careful. (I can hear murmurings from the back of he "started with pickups") I think the photo below perfectly sums up the great design by Martin Finney.... but what about the room for the pickups! 

 

yes there is pull rods that go back on themselves leaving precious little space for pickups let alone space to get some copper clad to mount them on! 

Good morning Doug,

 

Your approach is much 'purer' than mine.

 

A glance at the pictures I posted last night will reveal I'll happily omit certain details, or nibble them away so that they don't interfere with pick-ups. Springs, for instance.

 

In my defence, by the time everything else is on, from 'normal' viewing angles those omissions are invisible (a curious turn of phrase, I admit). I'll often substitute .45mm brass wire for the cross-pieces, because it takes up far less space.

 

Pragmatism?

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[St Enodoc]

19 minutes ago, grahame said:

even with my limited abilities

Come off it!

[grahame]

10 minutes ago, St Enodoc said:

Come off it!

 

Oh, I don't know. I might be able to do a bit of cutting and gluing of card and plastic, but don't expect me to work with metal and solder. . . . 

 

I know that's heresy on this thread and could get me thrown off.

;-)

 

 

[Clem]

12 hours ago, thegreenhowards said:

Tony,

 

I’m in awe! I thought I was doing reasonably well with my A5 kit, but it still doesn’t work well and needs more fettling, so is in the ‘too difficult’ pile for the moment. I find that bit of a kit build the most frustrating and worrying.

 

I seem to be busier than ever now with the house full of kids and wife whereas I normally have it to myself. And the allotment needs watering and weeding regularly  - I might need those spuds when the country runs out of food!

 

However as well as the A5, I have managed to get some ballasting done on Gresley Jn which was well overdue, so progress is being made - just much slower than yours! 

Andy

 

 

I entirely agree, Andy. In the time it's taken me to get about 95% complete with my DJH WD, Tony has produced 4 superb creations. But my (feeble) excuse is that mine is sprung on a scratch built chassis for EM and it's the first time I've attempted a DJH WD. It has been challenging at times but hopefully the next one will be a bit easier, now I know what to look out for. The clearances are tight but OK. Just the injectors and associated pipe work (and new injector covers - the DJH ones are quite under scale), sandboxes, front lamp brackets and front vac pipe to add before painting.

 

Tony, I know you don't like compensated or sprung chassis but my track work/pointwork is nothing like as good as yours and I find a sprung or compensated chassis mitigates this. 

 

 

[thegreenhowards]

12 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

Good evening Andy,

 

Why doesn't your A5 work well? 

 

One thing I do with all the locos I build is to ensure that the chassis works perfectly before I'll contemplate building the body. Yes, if it's got outside cylinders/valve gear, these are left to the last, but the chassis must run round the layout perfectly in 'naked' form before any work commences on the body. 

 

You seem to have all but built the A5 bodywork, yet you say it doesn't work well. Could it be that the bodywork is causing some problems? 

 

How is the chassis configured? Compensated? If so, solder it all up solid. You'll be surprised at how much better it'll run if rigid! 

 

Don't get worried. When this is all over, arrange another visit up here and I'll look at it for you.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

Thanks for your encouragement Tony,

 

I did (as taught!) start on the chassis and got it finished, but couldn’t find the motor main gear grub screw. Peter at 52F models kindly sent me a replacement FOC but I built the body while I was waiting for it. 

 

However, the chassis is problematic with or without the body. I think there are a number of issues including:

1. There is very little slop in the frames so shorting may be an issue

2. It is compensated but there’s no mention of springing in the instructions and I’m not quite sure what I’m supposed to do (short of soldering it up solid). I want to try to get the compensation to work as an experiment having never tried it before. Even if I was to  ‘de-compensate’ it, I presume I would need some sort of jig which I don’t possess (cue howls of anguish!).

3. I suspect the main problem may be that it is designed for finer scales (EM/P4) and more experienced modellers than 00/me!

 

Too be honest I haven’t spent very long on it so far so it is not a reflection on the kit... more on me. I find I need to psyche myself up for this bit, find a few spare hours and bury my head in a wet towel! I’ve been too busy for that. 

 

I should also say that I don’t think I have ever got a kit built loco working satisfactorily without either plonking it on a RTR chassis (still a good solution in my book) or a visit to ‘Dr Wright‘  for you to tweak something that I’ve got wrong - last time If you remember it was opening out the holes in the coupling rods on my SE Finecast J6. So a trip to Little Bytham towers would be much appreciated in due course but I suspect I will have plenty of time to attempt to fix it myself before then!

 

All the above sounds a little depressing but I don’t think I’m atypical of moderately experienced modellers in struggling with this, which, to I bring this thread back too a familiar topic, is why RTR is so ‘all conquering’. It’s also why I tend to stick to coaches - I know I can get them to work. And I can turn one out in a reasonable length of time.

 

Have you finished one of the three kits you showed us yet?!

 

Andy

 

 

 

[31A]

In terms of what have we done during the lockdown, I seem to have started lots of things but not finished many, so I haven't updated my layout thread for a long time as I prefer to show things I've actually finished.  Nevertheless there's been a lot going on!

 

I thought I'd make an inroad into my stash of wagon kits, and indeed I did build two Parkside LNER Loco Coal wagons.

 

 

And finished a couple of kits that had been hanging around unfinished for years - Chivers ballast wagon, and Ratio banana van:

 

 

 

 

Then I realised if I built more wagons, I'd run out of room to store them!

 

So I've concentrated on 'infrastructure' and scenic items; a lot of this has been in the loco yard area.

 

 

This area has since been ballasted, and there are puddles:

 

 

Attention turned to the retaining walls in the background, which now have cabling running along them:

 

 

The lines here have since been ballasted too, and the cabling had to go somewhere so it now goes over the bridge.

 

 

At the other end of this area, the girder bridge that marks the entrance to the fiddle yard is just about finished, or near enough so that it can carry the bus.

 

 

And to go next to it, this signal box is a work in progress; Great Northernisation of a Wills kit:

 

 

 

 

[Paul Cram]

27 minutes ago, thegreenhowards said:

Thanks for your encouragement Tony,

 

I did (as taught!) start on the chassis and got it finished, but couldn’t find the motor main gear grub screw. Peter at 52F models kindly sent me a replacement FOC but I built the body while I was waiting for it. 

 

However, the chassis is problematic with or without the body. I think there are a number of issues including:

1. There is very little slop in the frames so shorting may be an issue

2. It is compensated but there’s no mention of springing in the instructions and I’m not quite sure what I’m supposed to do (short of soldering it up solid). I want to try to get the compensation to work as an experiment having never tried it before. Even if I was to  ‘de-compensate’ it, I presume I would need some sort of jig which I don’t possess (cue howls of anguish!).

3. I suspect the main problem may be that it is designed for finer scales (EM/P4) and more experienced modellers than 00/me!

 

Too be honest I haven’t spent very long on it so far so it is not a reflection on the kit... more on me. I find I need to psyche myself up for this bit, find a few spare hours and bury my head in a wet towel! I’ve been too busy for that. 

 

I should also say that I don’t think I have ever got a kit built loco working satisfactorily without either plonking it on a RTR chassis (still a good solution in my book) or a visit to ‘Dr Wright‘  for you to tweak something that I’ve got wrong - last time If you remember it was opening out the holes in the coupling rods on my SE Finecast J6. So a trip to Little Bytham towers would be much appreciated in due course but I suspect I will have plenty of time to attempt to fix it myself before then!

 

All the above sounds a little depressing but I don’t think I’m atypical of moderately experienced modellers in struggling with this, which, to I bring this thread back too a familiar topic, is why RTR is so ‘all conquering’. It’s also why I tend to stick to coaches - I know I can get them to work. And I can turn one out in a reasonable length of time.

 

Have you finished one of the three kits you showed us yet?!

 

Andy

 

 

 

The chassis doesn't use springing. There should be a litle movement up and down on the driving wheels. Did the wheels move freely before you got the grub screw for the motor? Did you use a quartering tool or did you do it by eye? The gauge has nothing to do with whether compensation works. When you say there may be a short, what pickup system are you using? Are the pickups touching the chassis?

 

Paul

Edited May 23, 2020 by Paul Cram

[Tony Wright]

2 hours ago, Clem said:

 

I entirely agree, Andy. In the time it's taken me to get about 95% complete with my DJH WD, Tony has produced 4 superb creations. But my (feeble) excuse is that mine is sprung on a scratch built chassis for EM and it's the first time I've attempted a DJH WD. It has been challenging at times but hopefully the next one will be a bit easier, now I know what to look out for. The clearances are tight but OK. Just the injectors and associated pipe work (and new injector covers - the DJH ones are quite under scale), sandboxes, front lamp brackets and front vac pipe to add before painting.

 

Tony, I know you don't like compensated or sprung chassis but my track work/pointwork is nothing like as good as yours and I find a sprung or compensated chassis mitigates this. 

 

 

Very nice, Clem,

 

It's each to their own. Your WD runs exceptionally well, and if it's because of compensation, then that's good. 

 

However, mine run just as well, and they're rigid. I also doubt if my trackwork/pointwork in the fiddle yard (which I laid) is better than that which you've made/laid. 

 

Regards,

 

Tony.  

[Tony Wright]

1 hour ago, 31A said:

In terms of what have we done during the lockdown, I seem to have started lots of things but not finished many, so I haven't updated my layout thread for a long time as I prefer to show things I've actually finished.  Nevertheless there's been a lot going on!

 

I thought I'd make an inroad into my stash of wagon kits, and indeed I did build two Parkside LNER Loco Coal wagons.

 

 

And finished a couple of kits that had been hanging around unfinished for years - Chivers ballast wagon, and Ratio banana van:

 

 

 

 

Then I realised if I built more wagons, I'd run out of room to store them!

 

So I've concentrated on 'infrastructure' and scenic items; a lot of this has been in the loco yard area.

 

 

This area has since been ballasted, and there are puddles:

 

 

Attention turned to the retaining walls in the background, which now have cabling running along them:

 

 

The lines here have since been ballasted too, and the cabling had to go somewhere so it now goes over the bridge.

 

 

At the other end of this area, the girder bridge that marks the entrance to the fiddle yard is just about finished, or near enough so that it can carry the bus.

 

 

And to go next to it, this signal box is a work in progress; Great Northernisation of a Wills kit:

 

 

 

 

Wonderful work, Steve,

 

Thanks for showing us.

 

Personal modelling at its very best........................

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[thegreenhowards]

1 hour ago, Paul Cram said:

The chassis doesn't use springing. There should be a litle movement up and down on the driving wheels. Did the wheels move freely before you got the grub screw for the motor? Did you use a quartering tool or did you do it by eye? The gauge has nothing to do with whether compensation works. When you say there may be a short, what pickup system are you using? Are the pickups touching the chassis?

 

Paul

Paul,

 

There is movement up and down, but only if I push - it’s quite stiff, possibly because the motor unit is fitting inside an OO frame?The wheels run fairly freely without the grub and when I apply power it does run - just not very smoothly. As I say, I need more fettling time and I’m not blaming the kit. Quartering is by Romfords - I chose not to use the recommended Gibsons. I’m using the sprung plunger pick ups recommended by the kit, but half expecting to replace them with ‘sir’ style nickel silver wipers. I think the shorts are when the wheel rim touches the frames.

 

Andy

[grahame]

12 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

Wonderful work, Steve,

 

Thanks for showing us.

 

Personal modelling at its very best........................

 

 

Yes, and nice range of interesting modelling subjects and projects. Super effects and realistic results.

Edited May 23, 2020 by grahame

[Tony Wright]

1 hour ago, thegreenhowards said:

Thanks for your encouragement Tony,

 

I did (as taught!) start on the chassis and got it finished, but couldn’t find the motor main gear grub screw. Peter at 52F models kindly sent me a replacement FOC but I built the body while I was waiting for it. 

 

However, the chassis is problematic with or without the body. I think there are a number of issues including:

1. There is very little slop in the frames so shorting may be an issue

2. It is compensated but there’s no mention of springing in the instructions and I’m not quite sure what I’m supposed to do (short of soldering it up solid). I want to try to get the compensation to work as an experiment having never tried it before. Even if I was to  ‘de-compensate’ it, I presume I would need some sort of jig which I don’t possess (cue howls of anguish!).

3. I suspect the main problem may be that it is designed for finer scales (EM/P4) and more experienced modellers than 00/me!

 

Too be honest I haven’t spent very long on it so far so it is not a reflection on the kit... more on me. I find I need to psyche myself up for this bit, find a few spare hours and bury my head in a wet towel! I’ve been too busy for that. 

 

I should also say that I don’t think I have ever got a kit built loco working satisfactorily without either plonking it on a RTR chassis (still a good solution in my book) or a visit to ‘Dr Wright‘  for you to tweak something that I’ve got wrong - last time If you remember it was opening out the holes in the coupling rods on my SE Finecast J6. So a trip to Little Bytham towers would be much appreciated in due course but I suspect I will have plenty of time to attempt to fix it myself before then!

 

All the above sounds a little depressing but I don’t think I’m atypical of moderately experienced modellers in struggling with this, which, to I bring this thread back too a familiar topic, is why RTR is so ‘all conquering’. It’s also why I tend to stick to coaches - I know I can get them to work. And I can turn one out in a reasonable length of time.

 

Have you finished one of the three kits you showed us yet?!

 

Andy

 

 

 

Good afternoon Andy,

 

I haven't finished any of the kits in the boxes I pictured, but they've all been opened.

 

'(cue howls of anguish!).'

 

Indeed! 

 

How anyone can contemplate getting a loco chassis to run well without its being assembled on a jig of some description, I have no idea. Even where frames have screw-together, turned spacers (SEF, for instance), I'll still check everything for accuracy by using jig axles (Markits/LRM), adjusting as necessary. Your A5 chassis could be made rigid by employing jig axles.  

 

As mentioned with regard to the J17 of late, though all the etched spacers' tabs fitted perfectly into the etched frames' slots, after a couple of initial tack joints, it was clear I would end up with a parallelogram. Using a jig sorted the problem out. 

 

As for missing grubscrews - why not order spares? I have dozens, bought from Markits as part of much larger orders. The floors of railway modellers' workshops must be littered with tiny (but vital) bits which ping into oblivion! I also order crankpins/crankpin washers by the hundred, rather than in packs of six or eight. 

 

All-conquering RTR? Yes, and isn't the model railway scene the duller for it, with far too many identical items seen on layouts and in the media (both electronic and paper)? One could argue that LB has far too many Bachmann Mk.1s, though all have been modified/improved. 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[Tony Wright]

10 minutes ago, thegreenhowards said:

Paul,

 

There is movement up and down, but only if I push - it’s quite stiff, possibly because the motor unit is fitting inside an OO frame?The wheels run fairly freely without the grub and when I apply power it does run - just not very smoothly. As I say, I need more fettling time and I’m not blaming the kit. Quartering is by Romfords - I chose not to use the recommended Gibsons. I’m using the sprung plunger pick ups recommended by the kit, but half expecting to replace them with ‘sir’ style nickel silver wipers. I think the shorts are when the wheel rim touches the frames.

 

Andy

Good afternoon again, Andy,

 

Did you put a one eight taper reamer through the driving wheel bearings after they were inserted? And, also, did you put that same reamer through the driven axle's bearings and the gearbox's bearings at the same time? 

 

It's my experience that one eighth bearings and one eighth axles produce a friction-fit without this procedure.

 

By inserting one eighth Peco fibre washers on the axles on the insulated side, the wheel rims won't touch the frames. If you're not sure where a short might be, wait until dark, then run the chassis at full voltage - you'll soon see where there are any shorts!

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

 

 

[Headstock]

21 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

Good afternoon Andy,

 

I haven't finished any of the kits in the boxes I pictured, but they've all been opened.

 

'(cue howls of anguish!).'

 

Indeed! 

 

How anyone can contemplate getting a loco chassis to run well without its being assembled on a jig of some description, I have no idea. Even where frames have screw-together, turned spacers (SEF, for instance), I'll still check everything for accuracy by using jig axles (Markits/LRM), adjusting as necessary. Your A5 chassis could be made rigid by employing jig axles.  

 

As mentioned with regard to the J17 of late, though all the etched spacers' tabs fitted perfectly into the etched frames' slots, after a couple of initial tack joints, it was clear I would end up with a parallelogram. Using a jig sorted the problem out. 

 

As for missing grubscrews - why not order spares? I have dozens, bought from Markits as part of much larger orders. The floors of railway modellers' workshops must be littered with tiny (but vital) bits which ping into oblivion! I also order crankpins/crankpin washers by the hundred, rather than in packs of six or eight. 

 

All-conquering RTR? Yes, and isn't the model railway scene the duller for it, with far too many identical items seen on layouts and in the media (both electronic and paper)? One could argue that LB has far too many Bachmann Mk.1s, though all have been modified/improved. 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

 

Don't worry Tony,

 

there is a vaccine for too many MK1's. I was inoculated many years ago and haven't looked back.