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10 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

 

I built one for a friend a couple of years ago, but I can't find the pictures for some reason. Archie, if you're reading this, would you mind posting your pictures of it, please? 

 

 

 

 

No problem at all Tony. Here are a couple. She still runs ever so sweetly. 

 

Archie

 

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13 hours ago, jwealleans said:

 

Blimey yes, mine is certainly ahead of that both in quality of print and design - there's a clear rebate behind each window (but not droplights or ends) to glaze into.   I have been taking pictures but I don't seem to have included the inside of the sides.  I'll try to do something today.

 

I superglued mine but all four corners needed some filling.  I've also used the central lavs to allow bracing pieces across the body which has helped it stay square and rigid.

 

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Good evening Jonathan,

 

you didn't reply to my question, but don't nock yourself out, I'm kind of losing any interest in the Isinglass kits.

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Good evening Tony and all, I was talking to Simon A.C.Martin (who sends his regards), he asked if I could post up some photos of his latest LNER model, 4489 'Dominion of Canada'. I think it's rather nice and brought back memories of The Great Goodbye a few years ago. 

 

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Here's the spec list.

GBL bodyshell for loco and tender
Hornby tender chassis and wheels
Bachmann latest A4 chassis
Graeme king single chimney resin casting
Maygibb A4 buffers
Bell from spares box
Own garter blue paint
Humbrol no.20 for wheels
Fox transfers for nameplates and etched parts and crests
Hand painted parabolic curve
And Johnson’s Klear to seal
 

 

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2 hours ago, Manxcat said:

No problem at all Tony. Here are a couple. She still runs ever so sweetly. 

 

Archie

 

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Many thanks Archie,

 

You made a very good job of painting/weathering it.

 

It might run even better were it on the track! Sorry, couldn't resist....

 

The correct-style bogie wheels DO make a difference.

 

And, I assume, there are no squeaks?

 

Best regards,

 

Tony. 

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1 hour ago, 92220 said:


Dear Tony,
 

You are far too kind.  I think, if my 46245 was the subject of one of your excellent photos, you might see a much bigger difference between my work and Geoff’s.
 

The surprise might be how I actually got to this point, which might confound the purists.  I think it is ready for weathering, but sometimes the camera shows up something I’ve forgotten:
 

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First step from here was aerosol red primer and then the entire body was sprayed with more Halfords paint:

 

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In the background you can see the developing progress on a Comet Scot too.  
 

Then brush painted satin black and transfers.

 

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Fox transfer set includes yellow lines that are a trifle wide if I’m honest, but it was the best option at the time.  They will tone down with weathering, and I used BR Maroon yellow and black carriage lining for the buffer beams which was much finer.  Finally, I used a very fine sable to touch in all the black lines at the panel edges.

 

Almost there on 46145 too.  
 

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You kindly hosted this one at LB a couple of years ago but with the move etc, it hasn’t been completed until now.  
 

I used a custom can of deep bronze green made up in the shop, which seems ok.

 

46145 was not a regular at Camden but I have a photo of it there in 1959 and it has great significance for me.
 

As you know, my loco building owes much to you: thank you very much indeed.
 

Many thanks too for your offer of help with the control panel, which I will gratefully accept.

 

Best wishes as always,

 

Iain

 

 

 

My pleasure, Iain,

 

Thanks for showing us your progress. It's very impressive.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

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7 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

Many thanks Archie,

 

You made a very good job of painting/weathering it.

 

It might run even better were it on the track! Sorry, couldn't resist....

 

The correct-style bogie wheels DO make a difference.

 

And, I assume, there are no squeaks?

 

Best regards,

 

Tony. 

 

9 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

Many thanks Archie,

 

You made a very good job of painting/weathering it.

 

It might run even better were it on the track! Sorry, couldn't resist....

 

The correct-style bogie wheels DO make a difference.

 

And, I assume, there are no squeaks?

 

Best regards,

 

Tony. 

 

A7 69772 12 August 1956.jpg

A7 69772 Dairycoates 1955.jpg

A7 69772, Dairycoates.jpg

A7 69772_A7_p.jpg

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25 minutes ago, Corbs said:

Good evening Tony and all, I was talking to Simon A.C.Martin (who sends his regards), he asked if I could post up some photos of his latest LNER model, 4489 'Dominion of Canada'. I think it's rather nice and brought back memories of The Great Goodbye a few years ago. 

 

100514841_548645875800038_3015005507795550208_n.jpg.38de126675db0f1d66aa4ad3041c7dcd.jpg

 

Here's the spec list.

GBL bodyshell for loco and tender
Hornby tender chassis and wheels
Bachmann latest A4 chassis
Graeme king single chimney resin casting
Maygibb A4 buffers
Bell from spares box
Own garter blue paint
Humbrol no.20 for wheels
Fox transfers for nameplates and etched parts and crests
Hand painted parabolic curve
And Johnson’s Klear to seal
 

 

99415926_545241879685480_7136723362197274624_n.jpg

99423722_1171073976564805_6341363597288931328_n.jpg

100059797_618900265642687_970622648520278016_n.jpg

100073629_416646505885071_7426154907557691392_n.jpg

100549506_2736339736595827_7752616179180503040_n.jpg

100573579_2763666850623833_2875318237728342016_n.jpg

100603647_254472522437833_5885723371693408256_n.jpg

100697298_253774585711259_3384198693241487360_n.jpg

100714499_1096328644056789_2046544297272016896_n.jpg

100744541_602249003717109_6726244670474551296_n.jpg

100746113_1308076419582793_2726636103552466944_n.jpg

100750641_602412053957967_1951885318307184640_n.jpg

101385195_824840838040045_7058840856203100160_n.jpg

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Good evening Corwin,

 

Please pass on my regards to Simon.

 

The A4 looks very impressive, especially considering its origins.

 

Just a couple or so observations, if I may? The nameplates seem to stand very proud of the body, and I think the tender buffer stocks should be black. 

 

Further (and easy) detailing might include a screw shackle and frame-mounted guard irons.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

 

P.S. Now that LB is just about finished, I'll blank off the ends with sheets and take some video footage; then post it to you...... 

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1 hour ago, Headstock said:

Good evening Jonathan,

 

you didn't reply to my question, but don't nock yourself out, I'm kind of losing any interest in the Isinglass kits.

 

Evening Andrew,

 

I must have been preparing photographs when you posted - my apologies, they were still in the camera and had to be messed about with.   I've put quite a lengthy post on my workbench thread about this carriage, but to focus specifically on what you asked, the ends are also too thick as they fit outside the sides:

 

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For those new to the question, you should be able to see that on the prototype the panelling goes almost to the end of the side and the thickness of the end is behind it; on the kit, the end fits on the end of the side, lengthening it by its own thickness.  It's not instantly visible from normal viewing distance, but it's not right and I suppose that's an area where a brass kit scores.

 

 

 

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25 minutes ago, jwealleans said:

 

Evening Andrew,

 

I must have been preparing photographs when you posted - my apologies, they were still in the camera and had to be messed about with.   I've put quite a lengthy post on my workbench thread about this carriage, but to focus specifically on what you asked, the ends are also too thick as they fit outside the sides:

 

For those new to the question, you should be able to see that on the prototype the panelling goes almost to the end of the side and the thickness of the end is behind it; on the kit, the end fits on the end of the side, lengthening it by its own thickness.  It's not instantly visible from normal viewing distance, but it's not right and I suppose that's an area where a brass kit scores.

 

 

Many thanks for the photographs and comparisons Jonathan, they are superb.

 

Despite the number of people who seem to have bought these kits, it is incredibly difficult to get anybody to post really good close up photographs of what they have. I can see from your photographs exactly what is going on, not to criticize, but to see what the problem is and what can be done to correct it. Tail end brake carriages*, being super visible should look flush right down to the bottom of the headstocks.

 

A question or two if you don't mind. What is the length of the sides without the ends, does it scale? Is that the underframe supplied with the kit?

 

Thanks again.

 

*I was cautiously considering the BT (5)

Edited by Headstock
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Quote

What is the length of the sides without the ends, does it scale? Is that the underframe supplied with the kit?

 

I managed to nip up there before leaving for work: the sides are 57' 6", so the completed coach is just a touch over 58'.  It's obviously been adjusted to suit.

 

The bare one piece floor is all you get - everything else I had to add.

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9 hours ago, 2750Papyrus said:

Like the view.

 

Picky, picky, but would the top surfaces of the checkrails be the same "brightness" as the running rails?

No.

 

The problem is, as always, that track cleaning (which isn't needed too often) tends to remove any paint I put on top of the checkrails. 

 

Fortunately, there are no checkrails to see looking south from the veranda.........

 

1038112069_elevatedview60515.jpg.862c713ee92d28c5e85be2f2251c1196.jpg

 

Though an edge or two of the barrow crossing reveal its white Plastikard construction......

 

Clearly the photographer has hung out some distance to get this shot of A2/3 60515 SUN STREAM (Bachmann/King/King/Wright) heading back home to York on an express. 

 

To get the shots, all I've done is to put the camera on a variety of box sizes, as near as possible to the vantage point in question. 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

 

 

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9 hours ago, jwealleans said:

 

I managed to nip up there before leaving for work: the sides are 57' 6", so the completed coach is just a touch over 58'.  It's obviously been adjusted to suit.

 

The bare one piece floor is all you get - everything else I had to add.

 

Good gravy,

 

if I'm reading what you're saying correctly, the kit is not accurate to Isinglasses own drawing that they are selling! Your GN carriage should be 58' 1'' over the body. The model has added a scale six inches to the length because of the end design. To compensate, the length of the sides has been compressed by a scale six inches to keep the right length over all? What is it with manufactures and Gresley carriages?

Edited by Headstock
remove addition word left in by accident.
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56 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

No.

 

The problem is, as always, that track cleaning (which isn't needed too often) tends to remove any paint I put on top of the checkrails. 

 

Fortunately, there are no checkrails to see looking south from the veranda.........

 

1038112069_elevatedview60515.jpg.862c713ee92d28c5e85be2f2251c1196.jpg

 

Though an edge or two of the barrow crossing reveal its white Plastikard construction......

 

Clearly the photographer has hung out some distance to get this shot of A2/3 60515 SUN STREAM (Bachmann/King/King/Wright) heading back home to York on an express. 

 

To get the shots, all I've done is to put the camera on a variety of box sizes, as near as possible to the vantage point in question. 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

 

 

Hi Tony

 

A very nice photo.

 

its not easy photographing model locomotives especially if you are trying to replicate a scene from the past.
 

I have seen a few of your examples On your thread and they are excellent 

 

I have tried to do the same on Haymarket and using a Canon G12 which is much smaller than the SLR you use, but I still find it difficult to get it just right.

 

To obtain that typical Haymarket low level photo with Pacific’s lined up outside the shed which was so popular with photographs back in the days of steam I have to remove the turntable from its pit and still struggle to make it look Anywhere near realistic.

 

I do enjoy seeing your photographs.

 

Regards

 

David

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15 minutes ago, landscapes said:

Hi Tony

 

A very nice photo.

 

its not easy photographing model locomotives especially if you are trying to replicate a scene from the past.
 

I have seen a few of your examples On your thread and they are excellent 

 

I have tried to do the same on Haymarket and using a Canon G12 which is much smaller than the SLR you use, but I still find it difficult to get it just right.

 

To obtain that typical Haymarket low level photo with Pacific’s lined up outside the shed which was so popular with photographs back in the days of steam I have to remove the turntable from its pit and still struggle to make it look Anywhere near realistic.

 

I do enjoy seeing your photographs.

 

Regards

 

David

Thanks David,

 

I must confess, to get some of the more-recent shots I've lifted the signal box out of the way. Otherwise, the Nikon Df is just too big to squeeze into position. Even then, an 'actual' view is impossible. 

 

It brings an interesting set of photographic problems for those who build layouts of actual prototypes. I wouldn't have it any other way, of course, but those who create 'made-up' systems are not under the same constraints in trying to replicate actual views. They don't have any 'actual views' to attempt to replicate.

 

I think what compromises 'realistic' photography on so many model railways (not just those which represent actual locations) are the ends, where the scenic section meets the on/offstage bits. Unless the scenic lines go out of sight 'on the straight' (as do Bytham's from 'normal' viewing angles), then the curves just look daft, even if disguised by an overbridge. Where the real railways go 'out of sight' on a curve, it's far more generous than those seen on model railways. Even where the lines go out of sight on the straight, if the tight curves are still visible beyond the scenic break (as in the picture of the two 9Fs), realism is 'lost'. 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

Edited by Tony Wright
to clarify a point
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16 minutes ago, Headstock said:

The model has added a scale six inches to the length because of the end design. To compensate, the length of the sides has been compressed by a scale six inches to keep the right length over all?

 

Yes, I think that sums it up.   I don't have a D & S side for the same diagram (did he ever do this one?) but I have a D183 which I can put alongside it sometime.   I'd suspect that the compression is equally spread over the whole side so it's lost over the length of the vehicle.

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So I can continue modeling, which is encouraged on this thread, does any one know if instructions exist for these D&s Parker gcr 8ft bogies designed by A Gibbing, as I was kindly given some but without instructions. Also what are these small components in the top middle, which may be from the bogies or from the carriage a Parker 5 compartment third? 
AD1C4715-AF33-4DEE-B130-89007F1FFBCA.jpeg.0886b7184a5a39974762feb00e04f2f7.jpeg
and what are the thin legs for on the steps for the brake carriages far left of photo piece in among the brake pull rods?

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I have asked on my thread Some questions answered, thank you Bill, but this has stumped all so far. 
many thanks

richard

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Haven't ever made any of those, but the small pieces with the half etched line are door hinges.   Fold them though 90 degrees, push through the slot in the side, solder from the rear.

 

The little legs on the steps are the securing brackets, which being above the step are visible?   Fold the step up, place against the bogie side with plenty of flux and apply iron - the solder will wick up the back of the folded brass and the bracket above, securing it firmly.   At least, that's the theory.

 

Is this an old kit or can you still get hold of these anywhere?  The GC Society haven't (to my knowledge) released any of the Parker kits again although the castings have been reproduced.

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7 minutes ago, jwealleans said:

 

Yes, I think that sums it up.   I don't have a D & S side for the same diagram (did he ever do this one?) but I have a D183 which I can put alongside it sometime.   I'd suspect that the compression is equally spread over the whole side so it's lost over the length of the vehicle.

 

Thanks, Jonathan,

 

In that case, the only way  that the ends could be corrected, on any of the non gangway stock in the range, is to shorten the body by a scale six inches. Unfortunately, it would no longer fit on a  replacement scale underframe. You couldn't even cut and shut the sides into a Hornby body for instance, shame.

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Tony,

 

I like your high level shots. I know that some people prefer ground level shots as being more reminiscent of real railway shot, but I like the opportunity to see more of the train and layout.

 

Keep them coming and don’t feel you have to limit them to positions where they might have been taken. Perhaps the photographer had a hot air balloon! Did such things exist in the ‘50s?

 

Andy

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