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I have always preferred the SD 34 75% angled mirror in the LMR76, not the Mk2 but the Mk3. I find it gives much better results than the QRS95 with the reverse flip hazing option.

 

Can anybody join in this game or do you have to know what you are talking about?

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I fear that some people do like to use as much code and jargon as they possibly can. 

I once upset a very keen, self-important speaker at one of our (often pointless) local professional committee evenings by stopping her in mid-flow and asking her to start again using full names to refer to organisations, conditions and procedures, rather than a mass of acronyms that I could not decipher...

Edited by gr.king
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2 hours ago, grahame said:

 

I don't think the DMC G2 is a DSLR but rather a mirror-less micro four thirds system camera with interchangeable lenses, but could be wrong.

 

 

 

28 minutes ago, t-b-g said:

I have always preferred the SD 34 75% angled mirror in the LMR76, not the Mk2 but the Mk3. I find it gives much better results than the QRS95 with the reverse flip hazing option.

Mornington Crescent.

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7 minutes ago, gr.king said:

I fear that some people do like to use as much code and jargon as they possibly can. 

 

 

DSLR is Digital Single Lens Reflex - a type of camera - which has often been used in discussions on this thread and DMC G2 is just the manufacturers product code for a camera they make as owned and originally mentioned by the OP.

 

As regards to jargon, yep, it's best avoided, but then it's very much like a lot the jargon and terms used in discussion about some locos mentioned here. It can be very confusing. A4? isn't that a car made by Audi and the original development code for the V2 Nazi rocket.

;-)

 

 

 

 

 

 

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42 minutes ago, grahame said:

 

 It can be very confusing. A4? isn't that a car made by Audi and the original development code for the V2 Nazi rocket.

;-)

 

 


There’d be no indication if it were an Audi...

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1 hour ago, t-b-g said:

I have always preferred the SD 34 75% angled mirror in the LMR76, not the Mk2 but the Mk3. I find it gives much better results than the QRS95 with the reverse flip hazing option.

 

Can anybody join in this game or do you have to know what you are talking about?

Good afternoon Tony,

 

When I used to give talks to photographic societies it was always great fun to drop in a few well-chosen terms, just to get things going.

 

'One, of course, has to factor in reciprocity failure at certain exposures with transparency film'. Or, with a viewfinder/range-finder camera, 'There's always the problem of parallax'. 

 

The audiences would nod sagely, even if, half the time, I didn't really know what I was talking about (not that that's ever stopped me - in anything!). 

 

I've mentioned snobbery in golf (a sport I've never understood, having played it only a few times; dismally), and snobbery with regard to photography is endemic. When I took picture-taking professionally, there were a few 'rules' to obey before being accepted. These comprised.....

 

1. Anybody using a camera with the maker's name on the strap around the neck is clearly just a poser. Rainbow straps are allowed (that way you can see if they're impinging on the picture). However, for preference, a strip of ragged canvas is the best.

 

2. The camera must be black. But not universally-black - lots of brass should be showing through where it's been bashed about! If no brass is showing, then it's obviously plastic-bodied, and thus must be shunned. That used to be the universal case; however, since most camera bodies (even the best) now are mainly made of plastic, this is more difficult. That being the case, make sure the camera body is scuffed, with even the odd splash of paint applied randomly. 

 

3. Any lens must be of exactly the same make as the camera (unless it's the likes of an MPP or any other plate/monorail camera, where Zeiss is to be preferred). 

 

4. Any flash gun must be independent (and very big - nothing less than a Metz 60!). Any camera with built-in, pop-up flash is for children; dim children, at that. 

 

5. Any poncy camera bag with lots of pockets should be left on a train. A shabby hold-all, preferably with the odd tear, is far more desirable. 

 

6. The really best equipment must be obtained second-hand.

 

7 Any other 35mm range-finder camera which is not a Leica should really be given away. Anyone using a Leica SLR is really only kidding. 

 

8. For preference, any camera should be big, cumbersome, heavy and quite unlike what most members of camera clubs possess. The more-obscure the better in some ways, as long as it's expensive. 

 

9. The fewer descriptions a camera has after the maker's name means it's the best-quality, and also the most-expensive. Thus, Nikon D3 (in my case). I don't own (nor want) any Nikon DZXB**?? or whatever. The more descriptions mean they're the cheapest - and the nastiest! 

 

There are probably several more.................

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

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A4 is also a road I used to live alongside in Wiltshire and a size of paper!

 

It is difficult, if you get two or three people who know what they are talking about having a discussion on a forum, then terms that are second nature to them slip into he conversation. It almost becomes a personal chat between knowledgeable people and it is easy to forget that there are many others reading it who probably have a tiny clue or no clue at all as to what the people "in he know" are discussing.

 

On a camera/photography forum (I assume such things exist but have never looked for or seen one), such chat would be obvious to many more people but it would be like a couple of railway modellers discussing points with B switches and a 1 in 6 crossing angle on a camera forum. Incomprehensible to the vast majority. 

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1 hour ago, grahame said:

 

DSLR is Digital Single Lens Reflex - a type of camera - which has often been used in discussions on this thread and DMC G2 is just the manufacturers product code for a camera they make as owned and originally mentioned by the OP.

 

As regards to jargon, yep, it's best avoided, but then it's very much like a lot the jargon and terms used in discussion about some locos mentioned here. It can be very confusing. A4? isn't that a car made by Audi and the original development code for the V2 Nazi rocket.

;-)

 

 

 

 

 

 

Though isn't it a question of precedence?

 

A4? 1935.

 

V2? 1936.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

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12 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

Good afternoon Tony,

 

When I used to give talks to photographic societies it was always great fun to drop in a few well-chosen terms, just to get things going.

 

'One, of course, has to factor in reciprocity failure at certain exposures with transparency film'. Or, with a viewfinder/range-finder camera, 'There's always the problem of parallax'. 

 

The audiences would nod sagely, even if, half the time, I didn't really know what I was talking about (not that that's ever stopped me - in anything!). 

 

I've mentioned snobbery in golf (a sport I've never understood, having played it only a few times; dismally), and snobbery with regard to photography is endemic. When I took picture-taking professionally, there were a few 'rules' to obey before being accepted. These comprised.....

 

1. Anybody using a camera with the maker's name on the strap around the neck is clearly just a poser. Rainbow straps are allowed (that way you can see if they're impinging on the picture). However, for preference, a strip of ragged canvas is the best.

 

2. The camera must be black. But not universally-black - lots of brass should be showing through where it's been bashed about! If no brass is showing, then it's obviously plastic-bodied, and thus must be shunned. That used to be the universal case; however, since most camera bodies (even the best) now are mainly made of plastic, this is more difficult. That being the case, make sure the camera body is scuffed, with even the odd splash of paint applied randomly. 

 

3. Any lens must be of exactly the same make as the camera (unless it's the likes of an MPP or any other plate/monorail camera, where Zeiss is to be preferred). 

 

4. Any flash gun must be independent (and very big - nothing less than a Metz 60!). Any camera with built-in, pop-up flash is for children; dim children, at that. 

 

5. Any poncy camera bag with lots of pockets should be left on a train. A shabby hold-all, preferably with the odd tear, is far more desirable. 

 

6. The really best equipment must be obtained second-hand.

 

7 Any other 35mm range-finder camera which is not a Leica should really be given away. Anyone using a Leica SLR is really only kidding. 

 

8. For preference, any camera should be big, cumbersome, heavy and quite unlike what most members of camera clubs possess. The more-obscure the better in some ways, as long as it's expensive. 

 

9. The fewer descriptions a camera has after the maker's name means it's the best-quality, and also the most-expensive. Thus, Nikon D3 (in my case). I don't own (nor want) any Nikon DZXB**?? or whatever. The more descriptions mean they're the cheapest - and the nastiest! 

 

There are probably several more.................

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

 

You got me with point 1. I always knew I was a poser!

 

DSCN2650%5B1%5D.JPG.2b3c98f5f721a4c71c0c50be0cf49524.JPG

 

In my defence, it came with the camera and it seemed a waste of money to change it.

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56 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

Though isn't it a question of precedence?

 

A4? 1935.

 

V2? 1936.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

 

My understanding is that development of the Aggregat 4 (A4) was started in 1932 although the first test flight wasn't until 1942 - ten years later. It was given the 'Vergeltungswaffe 2' name (V2) some time in the 1940s. Presumably there were A1s, A2s and A3s (both rockets and locos) prior to then. 

 

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1 hour ago, t-b-g said:

A4 is also a road I used to live alongside in Wiltshire and a size of paper!

 

 

Paper sizes used to have names like foolscap or half elephant.  This is often a giveaway in period dramas and films.

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2 hours ago, St Enodoc said:

Mornington Crescent.

 

Yes, but if we're playing by the Yorkshire Variation Rules, then surely you must be in Nidd at the moment.

 

Pete T.

 

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Two more for the far side.........

 

795916753_embankmentview60063side-on.jpg.5f38f5af2ed0bf90a57bbf646686afd9.jpg

 

Class A3 60063 ISINGLASS (SE Finecast/Wright/Rathbone) speeds southwards through the station. 

 

915714080_embankmentview92042.jpg.1d7bd6835c4097917b3b92c6b5ce3452.jpg

 

Winding its way past the Down slow platform, 9F 92042 (DJH/Wright/Haynes) has the block cement train. 

 

To try to perch the camera on the top of the embankment would be impossible without the little clamp device. 

 

 

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1 hour ago, Adam88 said:

 

Paper sizes used to have names like foolscap or half elephant.  This is often a giveaway in period dramas and films.

 

I know. How much more colourful and interesting they were too!

 

Foolscap was a term still in regular use in my old workplace in the 70s and 80s as an envelope size, maybe still is.

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Speaking of cameras and such ...

 

My last film SLR was a Nikon F601 which I liked very much and  for which I spent some money on additional Sigma  lenses.

 

My first two digital cameras were a Panasonic Lumix FZ30 and 50, both of which continue to work well. They're what I think

were called bridge cameras, having a lot of the functionality of an SLR but with an integral zoom lens.  My wife has the 30

and I've got the 50, but they're similar enough that either of us can quickly grab one and get a decent snap of a bird or

whatever.

 

My first (and so far only) digital SLR was another Lumix, the 2011 Panasonic G1 which was launched as part of their Micro 4/3rds

range in conjunction with Olympus.  I quickly acquired some lenses as well, mostly for wildlife. Not long after I'd got it, though,

I noticed that my fingers had begun to leave marks on the rubbery casing around the camera body. I put this down to having

too-long fingernails, as I was also taking classical guitar lessons! However it soon became clear that all was not well. Over the

ensuing time the entire body has become a sticky mess of degraded rubber, or whatever that compound is. Oddly enough, I

also had it happen with a pair of guitar stands which had rubbery claws to grip the neck. It turns out that it wasn't me, or anything

in my environment - it's a near universal problem with G1s. The only solution is to bin the camera, which is virtually unusable

as it stands, or painstakingly remove the rubber coating using alcohol. This gets you back to a bare black plastic casing, which looks

a bit cheap and nasty but is a lot better than the sticky rubber. It takes hours and hours and is very tedious and hard on the fingers,

as well as requiring lots of alcohol and cotton buds, In the process some of the button labels seems to vanish, but mysteriously

others don't.

 

I'm not sure I'd have bothered if I hadn't also has the investment in the lenses. Has anyone else experienced this rubber

degradation with recent-ish consumer products? I've heard some say that it's only a matter of time but I have a decent

pair of Canon binoculars that are much older than the Lumix and still fine.

 

(incidentally, when I was thinking of moving into digital SLRs, I took my F601 along to the Nikon specialist shop in London. I was

hoping they'd be able to let me try a digital body in conjunction with my existing lenses, to see what did and didn't work, but

they couldn't have been less helpful..)

 

Al

 

 

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17 minutes ago, JamieR4489 said:

Good evening Tony,

 

I thought you might like to see my latest engine. The LRM D2 I showed a few months ago.

1F77581F-B8DA-47D1-BDFA-6E18C3F85B37.jpeg.16376b91b7566b58cec76ef7ff221f14.jpegD6C4ECD9-F3FC-4490-9685-AD67DC53932F.jpeg.4e7bf90f465ad459ca0932d70b8ba314.jpeg

 

Regards,

 

Jamie

A most creditable achievement, Jamie.

 

Thanks for showing us.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

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1 hour ago, JamieR4489 said:

Good evening Tony,

 

I thought you might like to see my latest engine. The LRM D2 I showed a few months ago.

 

Regards,

 

Jamie

 

Nice to see a few completed LRM D2's. Incidentally, I have two to build as my next project(s), and it appears the pressure is mounting to do a decent job.

 

Well done on the tender flare - probably the hardest part of these kits...

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24 minutes ago, grob1234 said:

Well done on the tender flare - probably the hardest part of these kits...

Thanks,

It was certainly challenging and definitely the part I was dreading the most. Your video that featured forming the flare on your J3 was helpful. Good luck with your pair.

 

Regards,

 

Jamie

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On 30/05/2020 at 16:29, grob1234 said:

And here, to qualify my post, is some progress on my C1. Sloshed a bit of paint on, now just some lining to do. The tender is treated in a similar manner. The green might look a bit 'off' but thats my camera phone.

 

IMG_6011.jpg.281eddb531579b4bcb732e7dd377a029.jpg

 

Your C1 is looking great Tom! My own two aren't as advanced as yours but they are slowly getting there.

 

3286_&_4436_31-5-20.jpg.30ec92d4cfba2196508e3c5672b03938.jpg

 

Like you, my camera is playing games with the green. Also annoyingly, the gloss finish does show up the ever so slight print lines on the splashers. Experience suggests that these will be all but invisible once the locos are finished and matted down.

 

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