Wright writes.....

[grahame]

Slow progress on the EPB renovation - I've stripped the two roofs, cleaned and tidied them and given them a coat of primer. The MBSO still needs a fair bit of work. It's not even on track (below) as the furthest line is a siding and is why it is a little lower than the driving trailer car. Also, apologies for the lack of third rail - it's just a short generic static diorama for photography. 

 

I thought I'd also check out my other two car units to see if they needed some upgrading and renovation. And, yep, they do, although despite that I'm pleased how they've held up over time and still look representational. Here they are lined up; left to right; the blue un-motorised 2-EPB, 6225 2-EPB in blue/grey and 6056 blue 2-HAP.

 

 

These are, of course, N/2mm models that are effectively scratch built - or at least heavily bashed from Graham Farish Mk1 coaches. The sides are etched brass but there's no soldering  with the majority of construction, body and chassis, from plastic although the truss rods are etched metal and much of the underframe detail white metal castings. Although looking somewhat dated and lacking finesse and modern levels of details I doubt there will be any exquisite RTR versions produced in my lifetime. Consequently, one has to get on and make what one wants.

 

 

 

 

Edited June 28, 2020 by grahame

[micklner]

3 hours ago, gr.king said:

New muffs, purchased (Peter's spares?) or home-made, or faff-around with various de-greasing agents, abrasives, glues, files and possibly the odd strengthening band or two made from brass tubing as a means of holding the axle muffs together.

Bachmann did stock the muffs , no idea if they still have any.

[PMP]

On 26/06/2020 at 06:51, Hollar said:

I've found the Masokits screw couplings to be a very good compromise between robustness and appearance.  You have to older them up, of course, but it's quite an enjoyable little job for those says when I'm feeling too ham-fisted  to go nar anything delicate.  You get a choice of bottom link - near-scale or usable.

 

Tone

They’re my go to solution for 4mm screw couplings too, the only disadvantage of them is the ‘old school’ ordering method. Having said that the orders have always been supplied efficiently and in a timely manner. If anyone’s not familiar with them a build of them is available here.

https://albionyard.wordpress.com/2012/03/15/fifteen-minute-heroes/
 

You can of course assemble them with the tommy bar the wrong way round when in use. Don’t ask me how I know....

[PJT]

2 hours ago, micklner said:

Bachmann did stock the muffs , no idea if they still have any.

 

They certainly still do for the B1, Std. Class 4 4-6-0 and A4, because I've bought them all in the last few months from Bachmann for repairing various locos for friends.  As for other Bachmann split chassis locos - J39, V1/V3, V2, J72, Jubilee, etc. - I don't know, but I wouldn't be at all surprised if they still did sets of muffs (or as they call them, insulators) for them all.

 

Pete T.

 

 

 

[Barry Ten]

Some additional work on the SE&CR E1 class:

 

[grahame]

I thought I'd also start to take a look at some of my old 4-car EMUs to check out their condition. Below are two 4-CIG units and unfortunately yes, they do both need remedial work and renovation. There's damage to roofs, missing vents, missing horns and broken off couplers. Such is the rigours of extensive exhibition use, but fortunately they won't have to undergo that again.

 

 

Is this the first for a NSE liveried EMU to grace the pages of this thread?

 

 

[Tony Wright]

Regarding split-chassis locos, I'm sure there are some out there which have given good service, and still do.

 

That said, all the comments about spare muffs (or whatever the plastic wheel centres are called) suggest there have been many failures.

 

I can only speak for my own experience. I've never seen one which runs to a standard I insist upon, even when they're not splitting. 

 

Though I've never made notes when I've been loco-doctoring, at a guess I'd say that well over 50% of models I've been asked to fix have been split-chassis ones. In some cases I've reset them, locking the axles with superglue. They then work, but for how long? However, some have been beyond my help, because the muffs have (literally!) split and virtually disintegrated. 

 

I think the whole design is flawed.

 

Something which definitely isn't flawed is the Mike Trice V2 body. 

 

In anticipation of the 'revised' body arriving, I've made the Comet frames for it, using the first body as a sort of guinea pig. 

 

 

I had to remove a bit more underneath the footplate adjacent to the firebox to get a snug fit for the Cartazzi frames, and my clumsiness (impatience!) resulted in part of the footplate/firebox breaking off. I'd stupidly tried to nibble it away with Xurons, instead of careful filing. Another lesson learned! 

 

I've glued a section back in, but other tiny bits just disappeared. I'm sure it can been repaired with slivers of Plastikard and filler, but I must treat this medium with more care. 

 

Anyway, as I've stated, this body is really for test purposes - testing 'to destruction' in my hands! 

 

 

 

The drive this time is a big Mashima and a DJH 'box, one I've had in stock for a while. Its performance is as good as the Portescap fitted into the other V2.

 

The driving wheels came from my spares boxes; clearly second-hand, but perfectly-suitable (if not as accurate as the latest Markits 24 LNER drivers fitted to the already-completed V2). I should have been more-diligent, because one wheel was already-fitted with the larger balance weight for the centre drivers. Like a dope, I fitted that wheel to the rear axle. The weight's been removed now (I only noticed it from this picture) and will be stuck on the right wheel later. 

 

These wheels are live-to-one-side, so only one set of pick-ups was needed. 

 

 

This one will tow a Bachmann tender - spare from a dud (guess which chassis?) B1. It'll need a vacuum tank on the rear end of the tender, but it's suitable enough. 

 

I'll erect the motion in anticipation of the next body arriving. 

 

The 'way to go V2' in my opinion. 

 

 

[MikeTrice]

9 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

I had to remove a bit more underneath the footplate adjacent to the firebox to get a snug fit for the Cartazzi frames, and my clumsiness (impatience!) resulted in part of the footplate/firebox breaking off. I'd stupidly tried to nibble it away with Xurons, instead of careful filing. Another lesson learned! 

 

Been there and done that. A razor saw is quite good at removing areas of the print. I also get through a lot of emery boards for filing finger nails.

[Theakerr]

11 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

Good morning David,

 

Many thanks.

 

I suppose that it's quite striking that it'll be 2021 (at the earliest?) before a decent RTR V2 will be finally available. For decades folk have bought Bachmann's original one, and, presumably, many are still happy with it; especially since it had a much better chassis provided for it a little while ago.

 

The need for a better chassis was on two levels; one, because the original split-chassis was really not DCC-compatible, and: two, because that original chassis was awful. I know folk tell me they've got split chassis which work 'beautifully', but I wonder what their definition of 'beautiful' is. So many split-chassis have been brought to me at shows with the question asked 'What can I do about this; the wheels have all come off?' 'Have you got a plot, and have you got a spade?' is my standard response. 

 

Indeed, a friend brought a split-chassis B1 over on Friday, and the axles had (literally!) split. 'There's nothing I can do' I told him, 'except build a Comet set of frames for it'. 

 

Returning to the V2 theme, I've just soldered-up the next set of Comet frames for the second one. Progress pictures later...................

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

Re the split chassis B1, another option is to look for a well priced new Bachmann B1 and swap the chassis.  They can (could?) be had relatively cheap and are a direct fit although depending on layout requirements may need extra weight.

Edited June 28, 2020 by Theakerr
auto correct

[Atso]

Good evening Tony,

 

I can only echo Mike's comments about using a razor saw, files and sanding sticks on 3D printed models. Using cutters tends to put additional stresses on the resin parts, especially when the cutters 'clip' together which often causes breakages. I do find that the material thickness also plays a part and tend to keep things a little thicker and use various ploys to disguise these.

 

My C1s are progressing with the first side of lining on the tenders now complete.

 

 

Both the new locos now have their identities and are awaiting final detailing.

 

 

 

 

Edited June 28, 2020 by Atso

[Chas Levin]

On 27/06/2020 at 19:42, Headstock said:

Talking about ECJS BG's, I completed this one back in Feb. It has stood around in undercoat awaiting the application of teak for the last five months. Progress was delayed by illness, lockdown, lack of paints and a weather that was to hot, to cold and a general lack of mojo and a backlog of stuff.

 

Finally its time has come. The teak base coat was added and the underframe painted this morning and weathered this afternoon, detail work to do. It's almost nine months since I did the last batch but If my teak brushes are still in order, painting shouldn't have to wait another five months.

 

Beautiful job Andrew!

I'm assuming this is also a D&S - not that I know of any other one but always ready to be pleasantly surprised...

You've done a much neater job than I managed on the door runners, securing bars and brackets.

Is the main roof using the plastic one supplied in the kit?

[Tony Wright]

11 hours ago, Atso said:

Good evening Tony,

 

I can only echo Mike's comments about using a razor saw, files and sanding sticks on 3D printed models. Using cutters tends to put additional stresses on the resin parts, especially when the cutters 'clip' together which often causes breakages. I do find that the material thickness also plays a part and tend to keep things a little thicker and use various ploys to disguise these.

 

My C1s are progressing with the first side of lining on the tenders now complete.

 

 

Both the new locos now have their identities and are awaiting final detailing.

 

 

 

 

Thanks for the tips, Steve (and also thanks to Mike).

 

I used a razor saw and files on the other side, resulting in no damage.

 

Working with 3D-printed resin is a new experience for me. I have a lot to learn!

 

One thing I noticed as well was that I ended up with a slightly sore throat after 'working' the resin. Is it wise to wear a mask when cutting/sanding the material? 

 

I suppose I've developed a 'tolerance' to flux fumes and solder fumes down the decades, but this was something new. Is the resin dust a particular irritant? 

 

Beautiful C1s, by the way.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[MikeTrice]

4 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

T

Working with 3D-printed resin is a new experience for me. I have a lot to learn!

 

One thing I noticed as well was that I ended up with a slightly sore throat after 'working' the resin. Is it wise to wear a mask when cutting/sanding the material? 

 

I suppose I've developed a 'tolerance' to flux fumes and solder fumes down the decades, but this was something new. Is the resin dust a particular irritant?

Yes, a mask is advised. Officially a mask should be used wherever dust is present regardless of material. Hopefully the later V2 prints will require far less material to be removed if any.

Edited June 29, 2020 by MikeTrice

[grahame]

29 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

 

One thing I noticed as well was that I ended up with a slightly sore throat after 'working' the resin. Is it wise to wear a mask when cutting/sanding the material? 

 

 

It's advisable to avoid ingesting any dust (even household dust which is mostly old human skin) as it will cause irritation, breathing difficulties and can lead to infection. And with resin dust there are various levels of toxicity:

 

. . . there are no adverse health effects associated with thermoplastic resins. However, dust from heated bismaleimide resin products can cause eye, nose, and throat irritation. And dust from polyurethane resin is highly toxic.

 

So very wise to wear a mask. Or at least do it outside.

 

 

[Headstock]

10 hours ago, Chas Levin said:

Beautiful job Andrew!

I'm assuming this is also a D&S - not that I know of any other one but always ready to be pleasantly surprised...

You've done a much neater job than I managed on the door runners, securing bars and brackets.

Is the main roof using the plastic one supplied in the kit?

 

Many thanks Chas,

 

it is a D&s kit. I suped - up the details on the plug doors, I also replaced the bufferbeam, that in the kit being steel, while the real thing had wooden headstocks with rather prominent rounded ends. The roof is the original from the kit, I don't recall there being much in the way of instructions a regards its fitting. I chopped it up, re-heated and slightly altered the profile, chamfered the top edge and fitted the two halves up against the clerestory. The fit worked out very well, without any need for filling.

Edited June 29, 2020 by Headstock

[PJT]

17 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

Regarding split-chassis locos, I'm sure there are some out there which have given good service, and still do.

 

That said, all the comments about spare muffs (or whatever the plastic wheel centres are called) suggest there have been many failures.

 

I can only speak for my own experience. I've never seen one which runs to a standard I insist upon, even when they're not splitting. 

 

Though I've never made notes when I've been loco-doctoring, at a guess I'd say that well over 50% of models I've been asked to fix have been split-chassis ones. In some cases I've reset them, locking the axles with superglue. They then work, but for how long? However, some have been beyond my help, because the muffs have (literally!) split and virtually disintegrated. 

 

I think the whole design is flawed.

 

Of course I agree with you, Tony; a chassis design that pretty well ensures that the axles fall apart after a few years, or the wheel centres expand to foul the coupling rods, or the plating on the driving wheel tyres wears through, eventually reducing electrical conductivity to zero, couldn't be regarded as anything better than 'flawed'.  In fact, that's being very kind to it in an almost diplomatic manner!  Actually, the knock out blow is the last one.  The splitting axles and the expanding wheel centres (causing a curious wobbling movement) can be rectified reasonably easily and quickly, but ultimately if you do manage to get a reasonable working life out of old split chassis locos, they then reward you with the worn driving wheel plating problem.  Unfortunately, because of lack of availability of new wheelsets for most of the models concerned, this usually means the end unless you're prepared to build a new chassis or, as in the case of the B1 and one or two others, source a DCC ready chassis from a later version.

 

However, there is a place for old split chassis and it's not always in the bin.  My partner Pam's grandson and the children of friends of ours have all benefitted from my buying up loads of cheap old Bachmann split chassis locos and getting them working acceptably smoothly again.  For a small fraction of the price of, for example, a secondhand Hornby Railroad model, you can buy and repair a dead or dying Bachmann split chassis loco, often with far nicer finish than Railroad models and with half-decent detailing that is still durable enough to withstand unintentionally over enthusiastic handling - ideal 'proper' models, the next stage up from pure toys, for kids from 7 or 8 years upwards.  Pam's grandson is now 11 and he's very proud of the fact he also has, alongside his original toy trains, a fleet of 'grown-ups' models' that he treats with as much care and love as an 11 year old could possibly do.  Occasionally one fails again, and I fix it again, and back it goes for a few more years of love and excitement on borrowed time.

 

Pete T.

 

 

 

Edited June 29, 2020 by PJT
Changed 'other' to 'better' to make better sense.

[Barry Ten]

Speaking of breathing things in, I bought a small extractor fan and filter to sit next to my workbench during soldering. It just lifts the solder and flux fumes away from the working area, without making so much noise or draught that it's annoying. As an asthmatic I'm very wary of breathing in anything that might be an irritant, including cyano fumes and resin dust. Also I don't want my hobby to come back and bite me in 20 years!

[Tony Wright]

5 hours ago, MikeTrice said:

Yes, a mask is advised. Officially a mask should be used wherever dust is present regardless of material. Hopefully the later V2 prints will require far less material to be removed if any.

Thanks Mike,

 

In fairness, I removed resin to fit a chassis of my choice. This removal of material was undertaken carelessly (breaking bits) by being over-vigorous and lacking patience, thus producing more dust than necessary. 

 

I should have thought of using a mask in the first place, though I've never worn one when soldering, and I do any spray-painting outdoors.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[Tony Wright]

5 hours ago, grahame said:

 

It's advisable to avoid ingesting any dust (even household dust which is mostly old human skin) as it will cause irritation, breathing difficulties and can lead to infection. And with resin dust there are various levels of toxicity:

 

. . . there are no adverse health effects associated with thermoplastic resins. However, dust from heated bismaleimide resin products can cause eye, nose, and throat irritation. And dust from polyurethane resin is highly toxic.

 

So very wise to wear a mask. Or at least do it outside.

 

 

Thanks Grahame,

 

I take it 3D-print resin is not polyurethane?

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[Arun Sharma]

No Tony, it isn't. Resins like Fullcure 720 are derivatives of cyanoacrylates. If you take a spare piece and attack it with a piercing saw or Dremel slitting disc you can smell the "bitter almonds" aroma of cyanides. The polyurethane resins are the sort of resins that Crownline, JLTRT and Radley Models use in their kits and as you know they are cured in the same way as epoxies - by reaction between two components as opposed to UV light/laser in the case of the cyanoacrylates.

Edited June 29, 2020 by Arun Sharma
correction

[Tony Wright]

16 minutes ago, Arun Sharma said:

No Tony, it isn't. Resins like Fullcure 720 are derivatives of cyanoacrylates. If you take a spare piece and attack it with a piercing saw or Dremel slitting disc you can smell the "bitter almonds" aroma of cyanides. The polyurethane resins are the sort of resins that Crownline, JLTRT and Radley Models use in their kits and as you know they are cured in the same way as epoxies - by reaction between two components as opposed to UV light/laser in the case of the cyanoacrylates.

Thanks Arun,

 

Anything derived from cyanide doesn't sound too healthy! 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[MikeTrice]

Presumably whitemetal is not too healthy either. I guess you should probably mask up when filing it but I wonder how many do.

[Bucoops]

I've been filing cast resin, whitemetal, and woods metal (Cadmium) used as solder. Add to that the fibreglass scratch brush usage.

 

I'm screwed

 

To be fair I do work in a very well ventilated area and don't blow the dust around, rather gently brush it into the dustbin.

[Steven B]

Wet'n'dry sanding paper (silicon carbide sanding sheets) are well worth using when dealing with anything resin based. Used wet they contain most of the dust created and work better than when dry.

 

A slightly damp microfibre cloth helps keep work areas clean.

 

Steven B.

[micklner]

Latest build a very old Nucast LNER ex NER G6/BTP ,it came with a "chemically enginnered"  chassis as per the box description . Sadly they succeded in making it longer than the body, the etched splashers however were very well done and a good fit .

It also suffered from the whitemetal Cab Front and Rear and Cab floor being to wide as well !!. Beaten into submission after a valiant fight. Powered by a excellent N Drive 1015 motor and  a High level Compact + gearbox which just fitted out of sight.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited June 29, 2020 by micklner