Wright writes.....

[micklner]

17 minutes ago, micklner said:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Duplicate post delete please

Edited June 29, 2020 by micklner

[grahame]

1 hour ago, Tony Wright said:

 

I take it 3D-print resin is not polyurethane?

 

 

I know little about 3D printing and the chemical composition of the materials but there are many types: 

 

. . .  such as ABS plastic, PLA, polyamide (nylon), glass filled polyamide, stereolithography materials (epoxy resins), silver, titanium, steel, wax, photopolymers and polycarbonate.

 

and probably more than there are types of 3D printing which include:

 

Stereolithography (SLA); Selective Laser Sintering (SLS); Fused Deposition Modeling (FDM); Digital Light Process (DLP); Multi Jet Fusion (MJF); PolyJet; Direct Metal Laser Sintering (DMLS); Electron Beam Melting (EBM)

 

Casting resin, of course, is usually polyurethane resin which contains isocyanate that can be fatal if swallowed and is suspected of causing cancer according to the warning on the container I have. Plus the precautionary advise says "do not breath dust/fume/gas/mist/vapours/spray". However, breathing in any dust can be injurious to health, so best to take care and precautions when doing any modelling that generates dust.  

 

 

[CUTLER2579]

2 hours ago, Bucoops said:

I've been filing cast resin, whitemetal, and woods metal (Cadmium) used as solder. Add to that the fibreglass scratch brush usage.

 

I'm screwed

 

To be fair I do work in a very well ventilated area and don't blow the dust around, rather gently brush it into the dustbin.

 

 To be fair we will all be screwed one day by the Funeral director attaching the lid to the coffin.   

[GH in EM and O]

22 hours ago, Atso said:

Good evening Tony,

 

I can only echo Mike's comments about using a razor saw, files and sanding sticks on 3D printed models. Using cutters tends to put additional stresses on the resin parts, especially when the cutters 'clip' together which often causes breakages. I do find that the material thickness also plays a part and tend to keep things a little thicker and use various ploys to disguise these.

 

My C1s are progressing with the first side of lining on the tenders now complete.

 

 

Both the new locos now have their identities and are awaiting final detailing.

 

 

 

 

Very impressive work Steve, the red line below the footplate shows out nicely. There are a lot of lines in this livery, aren't there.

[GH in EM and O]

Towards the end of last week, I decided I needed to give the smoke deflectors on the two pacifics a rub down and another coat of black. The finish on these need to be just right. A simple masking job with a piece of paper behind each one, and a little tape at the bottom. 

 

Today, I put the cream lines on the B16/3 and the K1. This will need a few days to dry before I can put the grey line next to it, but the red can go on at any point now. However, I will put the red lines on the C2 next.

 

I had some particularly good Jazz on iplayer whilst I was doing this. So good that it was at times difficult to keep still enough to get the job done, but I did manage it in the end.

 

The first time that Tony came over to take the photographs for my book, something felt like it was missing. Whilst we were talking here and there, whilst I was spraying or lining, it was almost silent, with Tony moving around behind and positioning the camera. However, I need something in the background whilst working, so next time Tony came, I had to inflict some of my music preferences on Tony. For the most part, I kept it light, and Tony didn't mind.

[Tony Wright]

4 hours ago, MikeTrice said:

Presumably whitemetal is not too healthy either. I guess you should probably mask up when filing it but I wonder how many do.

Not me...................

[Tony Wright]

More progress on the second Mike Trice V2 (actually, the first body). 

 

 

The first stage of repairing the results of my incompetence is illustrated here; a thin piece of Plastikard to strengthen the broken piece, and Microstrip, held in place with superglue, and left over-long for ease of movement into position.

 

Once the glue had set, the extra lengths were cut off with a sharp knife and filed flush. 

 

The rear fixing 8BA nut is also shown. I tried tapping the resin, but, after two or three tightenings-up, the thread failed. This is held in place with a dab of superglue, and later strengthened with a ring of epoxy. 

 

 

A further piece of Microstrip completed the repair, and it was all sanded-down. Almost invisible? 

 

This body is far too good to just use as a guinea, so it'll be complete like the first one. 

 

Forewarned of the brittleness of the medium, rather than drill large holes in the buffer beam to take sprung buffers, I've fitted cast metal Spencer dual-action types; from my spares box.

 

Comet's Cartazzi axle boxes are not only too small, but they're also not handed. These are Crownline ones - again from the spares box.

 

The vacuum cylinder (another spare) has been fixed to the tender. 

 

When the third body arrives, I'll have to build yet another chassis! 

 

 

[t-b-g]

50 minutes ago, GH in EM and O said:

Towards the end of last week, I decided I needed to give the smoke deflectors on the two pacifics a rub down and another coat of black. The finish on these need to be just right. A simple masking job with a piece of paper behind each one, and a little tape at the bottom. 

 

Today, I put the cream lines on the B16/3 and the K1. This will need a few days to dry before I can put the grey line next to it, but the red can go on at any point now. However, I will put the red lines on the C2 next.

 

I had some particularly good Jazz on iplayer whilst I was doing this. So good that it was at times difficult to keep still enough to get the job done, but I did manage it in the end.

 

The first time that Tony came over to take the photographs for my book, something felt like it was missing. Whilst we were talking here and there, whilst I was spraying or lining, it was almost silent, with Tony moving around behind and positioning the camera. However, I need something in the background whilst working, so next time Tony came, I had to inflict some of my music preferences on Tony. For the most part, I kept it light, and Tony didn't mind.

 

Whatever you inflicted on Tony's ears was very likely nothing compared to what used to blast out of the rather large speakers on visits to the home of Retford!

[Atso]

1 hour ago, GH in EM and O said:

Very impressive work Steve, the red line below the footplate shows out nicely. There are a lot of lines in this livery, aren't there.

 

Thanks Geoff. There really are a lot of lines for LNER green livery, but not as many as for some of the pre grouping liveries! The red lining needs a little tidying up in places - it's actually Humbrol 20 and not red at all. I've also just noticed that the front frame of 3286 isn't lined so I'll have to correct that tomorrow... Your current batch of commission looks to be coming along nicely.

 

I'm intrigued, just what noises are you inflicting on these folk???

[Atso]

53 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

More progress on the second Mike Trice V2 (actually, the first body). 

 

 

The first stage of repairing the results of my incompetence is illustrated here; a thin piece of Plastikard to strengthen the broken piece, and Microstrip, held in place with superglue, and left over-long for ease of movement into position.

 

Once the glue had set, the extra lengths were cut off with a sharp knife and filed flush. 

 

The rear fixing 8BA nut is also shown. I tried tapping the resin, but, after two or three tightenings-up, the thread failed. This is held in place with a dab of superglue, and later strengthened with a ring of epoxy. 

 

 

A further piece of Microstrip completed the repair, and it was all sanded-down. Almost invisible? 

 

This body is far too good to just use as a guinea, so it'll be complete like the first one. 

 

Forewarned of the brittleness of the medium, rather than drill large holes in the buffer beam to take sprung buffers, I've fitted cast metal Spencer dual-action types; from my spares box.

 

Comet's Cartazzi axle boxes are not only too small, but they're also not handed. These are Crownline ones - again from the spares box.

 

The vacuum cylinder (another spare) has been fixed to the tender. 

 

When the third body arrives, I'll have to build yet another chassis! 

 

 

 

The repair looks good to me Tony! As per the comments of others, I would recommend wearing a mask when creating resin dust. I like to use sanding sticks with a little water to keep the dust down.

[Tony Wright]

10 minutes ago, Atso said:

 

The repair looks good to me Tony! As per the comments of others, I would recommend wearing a mask when creating resin dust. I like to use sanding sticks with a little water to keep the dust down.

Thanks Steve,

 

I suppose it's the equivalent of melting a hole in a white metal casting, and then having to repair that. Been there, seen it, done it.........................

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[davidw]

1 hour ago, Tony Wright said:

More progress on the second Mike Trice V2 (actually, the first body). 

 

 

The first stage of repairing the results of my incompetence is illustrated here; a thin piece of Plastikard to strengthen the broken piece, and Microstrip, held in place with superglue, and left over-long for ease of movement into position.

 

Once the glue had set, the extra lengths were cut off with a sharp knife and filed flush. 

 

The rear fixing 8BA nut is also shown. I tried tapping the resin, but, after two or three tightenings-up, the thread failed. This is held in place with a dab of superglue, and later strengthened with a ring of epoxy. 

 

 

A further piece of Microstrip completed the repair, and it was all sanded-down. Almost invisible? 

 

This body is far too good to just use as a guinea, so it'll be complete like the first one. 

 

Forewarned of the brittleness of the medium, rather than drill large holes in the buffer beam to take sprung buffers, I've fitted cast metal Spencer dual-action types; from my spares box.

 

Comet's Cartazzi axle boxes are not only too small, but they're also not handed. These are Crownline ones - again from the spares box.

 

The vacuum cylinder (another spare) has been fixed to the tender. 

 

When the third body arrives, I'll have to build yet another chassis! 

 

 

Third, these V2 bodies are obviously contagious.

Edited June 29, 2020 by davidw

[Chas Levin]

12 hours ago, Headstock said:

 

Many thanks Chas,

 

it is a D&s kit. I suped - up the details on the plug doors, I also replaced the bufferbeam, that in the kit being steel, while the real thing had wooden headstocks with rather prominent rounded ends. The roof is the original from the kit, I don't recall there being much in the way of instructions a regards its fitting. I chopped it up, re-heated and slightly altered the profile, chamfered the top edge and fitted the two halves up against the clerestory. The fit worked out very well, without any need for filling.

 

I'll have a closer look at the plug doors' details to see how you altered them. I had spotted the difference in buffer beam shape between the diagram and the kit when building it: well done for replacing it, I must admit I went with what was there . I made a full width brass roof though (the first time I've tried doing one), because it seemed to offer a way to secure the clerestory (with bolts) after painting and glazing it, that would also allow removal if needed. How did you secure the clerestory? Can you still access it through the centre gap in the main roof?

[Barry Ten]

On 25/06/2020 at 20:11, Tony Wright said:

 

 

My point was how could anyone running a 'realistic' ('serious'?) railway today use either of these? 

 

Or, bringing up a point you made, Hornby tender drives? 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Case for the defense, sir?

 

I'm not saying this 9F runs as well as it would with a Comet chassis, but at the time I did the detailing on it, building such a thing was far beyond my skills. In fact, I've

still never built anything longer than a six-coupled chassis. The model is a Margate-era Hornby 9F with the 3-pole tender drive. I swapped the wheels and valve

gear for the finer, Chinese-era varieties at relatively low cost, and they were an easy fit. The rest of the work involved lowering the body and adding Comet detailing

parts, again relatively inexpensive. The brake gear and some additional details around the valve gear and cab were scratch built for the cost of materials. Pickups

were added to all eight flanged drivers and then wired through to the tender with a two-pin plug. As a "legacy" model I'm still happy to run it.

 

Presented in a spirit of friendly debate.

 

Al

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Headstock]

1 hour ago, Chas Levin said:

 

I'll have a closer look at the plug doors' details to see how you altered them. I had spotted the difference in buffer beam shape between the diagram and the kit when building it: well done for replacing it, I must admit I went with what was there . I made a full width brass roof though (the first time I've tried doing one), because it seemed to offer a way to secure the clerestory (with bolts) after painting and glazing it, that would also allow removal if needed. How did you secure the clerestory? Can you still access it through the centre gap in the main roof?

 

Chas,

 

The clerestory is soldered to the ends of the carriage, with the roof in two parts, so that the clerestory is open from below. I will be glazing it, even though the glass will end up quite dirty. The representation will be post war, at the end of the carriages service life, hence the lack of roof destination board brackets and step boards.

 

The roof mounted lights on these sorts of carriages is quite interesting in terms of their development. Inevitably, the real things got so dirty that they were of little use. Following the abandonment of the clerestories and the even harder to keep clean 'gabled' roof mountings, the lights eventually moved to a position below the cornice in the LNER BG's. In representing these, I don't always bother using clear glazing. The reference photographs, that I used as a guide for my recently completed ex NER BZ, showed roof lights so dirty that they were indistinguishable from the surrounding roof area. It would have looked wrong in context of the model to have them any other way. On the other hand, I produced the lights on the roof of a GN bogie milk van with a semi transparent dirt effect to show a little variation.

 

The final teak finish is yet to be decided. A subtle balance is required that reflects the realities of a carriage of its age, its qualities as an individual model and how it fits esthetically into a formation of sixteen other vehicles.

[DougN]

10 hours ago, CUTLER2579 said:

 

 To be fair we will all be screwed one day by the Funeral director attaching the lid to the coffin.   

 

But just remember Nothing bothers you any more!

 

(Why do I have a skit from the comedy trio "Doug Anthony All Stars" now going through my head For those brave enough :-https://genius.com/Doug-anthony-allstars-necro-romancer-lyrics , Ok they are comedians with a sick sense of humor not for the faint hearted or those of a nervous disposition!)  

Edited June 30, 2020 by DougN
Warning

[Tony Wright]

8 hours ago, Barry Ten said:

 

Case for the defense, sir?

 

I'm not saying this 9F runs as well as it would with a Comet chassis, but at the time I did the detailing on it, building such a thing was far beyond my skills. In fact, I've

still never built anything longer than a six-coupled chassis. The model is a Margate-era Hornby 9F with the 3-pole tender drive. I swapped the wheels and valve

gear for the finer, Chinese-era varieties at relatively low cost, and they were an easy fit. The rest of the work involved lowering the body and adding Comet detailing

parts, again relatively inexpensive. The brake gear and some additional details around the valve gear and cab were scratch built for the cost of materials. Pickups

were added to all eight flanged drivers and then wired through to the tender with a two-pin plug. As a "legacy" model I'm still happy to run it.

 

Presented in a spirit of friendly debate.

 

Al

 

 

 

 

 

 

A very well-argued case for the defence, Al,

 

And, in the spirit of friendly debate, did I detect the characteristic 'wobble' to the tender in motion caused by its traction tyres? And also that characteristic 'whirring'? 

 

It's certainly a huge improvement (I made a model of 92006 as well, using a Hornby tender-drive 9F, but fitting a Comet chassis - it appeared in one BRM Annual some years ago), and I compliment you on the excellent work. 

 

I only wish I had moving footage of the number of tender-drive locos I've seen at shows with the motion locked solid as the whole thing is propelled by its tender, wobbling like fury and roaring like a bull! 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[MikeTrice]

On 28/06/2020 at 19:53, Tony Wright said:

I had to remove a bit more underneath the footplate adjacent to the firebox to get a snug fit for the Cartazzi frames, and my clumsiness (impatience!) resulted in part of the footplate/firebox breaking off. I'd stupidly tried to nibble it away with Xurons, instead of careful filing. Another lesson learned!

Please note that the photographs here are of a reject body. For some reason the print is playing up which I have not looked into yet.

 

You will be pleased to hear that I have opened up the rear of the underside of the V2 body considerably:

 

I have a small tweak to make to the rear but the Comet Chassis now fits without modification so hopefully no more breakages in that area:

 

It is my intention to print the rear firebox support rather than use the Comet one so it will be located in the correct position. Other recent changes include holes for locating lamp irons and opening up the front drawbar slot and enlarging the buffer holes. Probably not Tony proof yet, but getting there!

 

I have continued limited experiments with a less brittle resin which is hampered by the general resin shortage at the moment. One option I have tried has resulted in a new warpage in the boiler section which would need to be investigated.

[Tony Wright]

40 minutes ago, MikeTrice said:

Please note that the photographs here are of a reject body. For some reason the print is playing up which I have not looked into yet.

 

You will be pleased to hear that I have opened up the rear of the underside of the V2 body considerably:

 

I have a small tweak to make to the rear but the Comet Chassis now fits without modification so hopefully no more breakages in that area:

 

It is my intention to print the rear firebox support rather than use the Comet one so it will be located in the correct position. Other recent changes include holes for locating lamp irons and opening up the front drawbar slot and enlarging the buffer holes. Probably not Tony proof yet, but getting there!

 

I have continued limited experiments with a less brittle resin which is hampered by the general resin shortage at the moment. One option I have tried has resulted in a new warpage in the boiler section which would need to be investigated.

Looking good Mike,

 

Thanks for showing us.

 

Very few things are 'Tony-proof'.

 

I think what I find most-heartening about this is the lengths you've gone to refine the V2 body, making it as user-friendly as possible. You really have produced the most-accurate V2 body I've seen (other than the Finney one and the forthcoming Bachmann one - and it's the equal of those in accurate appearance), and, with the Comet chassis makes into a wonderful model with relative ease. 

 

I'll not be surprised if you can't make them fast enough to satisfy demand! 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[Tony Wright]

12 hours ago, davidw said:

Third, these V2 bodies are obviously contagious.

Contagious indeed, David,

 

And why not? In this case Mike Trice V2 contagion is a good thing. 

 

Can one have too many V2s for an ECML steam-age depiction? 

 

I've got over a dozen (not counting the new ones), and probably need more. But, he-ho, with Little Bytham effectively completed now, what else do I use my modelling time for? 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[stewartingram]

Play with your train set?

 

Stewart

[Clearwater]

@MikeTrice 

Mike

apologies if I’ve missed it, but what sort of printer are you using for the V2 body and how long does it take to print the body?

many thanks

David

[MikeTrice]

14 minutes ago, Clearwater said:

@MikeTrice 

Mike

apologies if I’ve missed it, but what sort of printer are you using for the V2 body and how long does it take to print the body?

many thanks

David

Anycubic Photon (original version modified with twin vertical column fitted). Just the two halves of the main body take in excess of 17hrs to print, then there are the fittings.

[MikeTrice]

27 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

I'll not be surprised if you can't make them fast enough to satisfy demand! 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

It is sure going to take some time.

[Tony Wright]

13 minutes ago, stewartingram said:

Play with your train set?

 

Stewart

That's the paradox, Stewart,

 

For me, the most enjoyable thing in this hobby is actually making things. Though I do enjoy running my trainset (one word, please - 'train set' describes what I had from Tri-ang as a kid), I derive little pleasure from it by running it by myself. However, I do get a real 'buzz' from operating it with friends/visitors, but Lockdown has meant nothing of that. 

 

As soon as I've finished a model, it's thoroughly-tested (at all stages of its build), then it's off to make the next one.

 

Is this some kind of ' creative syndrome'? I'm very aware that my faculties are not what they were. Though my eyesight is still good, older-age floaters do make me squint at things more than before. Luckily, my hands are still dead-steady and are not afflicted by crippling conditions. That said, the tendency to drop things increases almost daily! And, forgetting where I've put things down (after only using them seconds before!) is now of epidemic proportions!

 

What I'm trying to say is that my future time is naturally limited (I'm an immediate post-War baby boomer) and unless I build as much as I can, while I still can, my family is going to have to find new homes for masses of kits at my demise! 

 

Some folk get great pleasure out of buying RTR models, or have models made for them; then running them. That's not me.

 

Regards,

 

Tony.