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Tony

I still have a NuCast O2/2 running on its w/m lump. I filed out the gear slot so I could fit a large Portescap - this was back in 1982!

It's had new wheels once, when Romford introduced 14 spoke 18mm as an option to their 16 spoke 18mm.

I've even got a secondhand O2/3 that I got really cheap as a non-runner on its lump chassis. Didn't take long to get  it running but the glued body fell apart so it needs to be cleaned up and soldered together some time. That will also have a large Portescap fitted.

Andrew

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10 minutes ago, ROY@34F said:

Let us know if you have any luck John . I have contacted you before on this subject and would love to have my Walkabout sorted .

 

Regards , Roy.

 

As soon as I can, I will test T6 as suggested above; if it requires replacement, they are not at all expensive; see

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/products/7743653/

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

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4 hours ago, thegreenhowards said:


I’m no expert on Bulldogs and other open frame motors. We had a debate on another thread about what the motor was and opinion was divided. I have another identical motor which came in a Romford Bulldog box which is what made me think that’s what it was. However, I’m sure you’re right as you must have dealt with 100’s of them.

 

I’ve currently put brakes in the too difficult box. I think it would be a real pain to drill the chassis block for them but one could glue some representation to the chassis sides - similiar to some old Hornby locos. Scratch building chassis is definitely not for me!

 

The pony wheels will be replaced next time I put in an order. The Cartazzi axle is essentially invisible when running, so I’ll live with that.
 

Andy

 

 

'one could glue some representation to the chassis sides'

 

Cough, splutter, gasp, choke, become apoplectic, turn crimson, expire!!!!!!!!!

 

Good afternoon Andy,

 

Unfortunately, I don't have a spare Romford 'Bulldog', but the easiest way to identify them is the triangular-shaped extension at the rear to take the retaining screw (others of the type have a round fixing point) and the plastic insulation sleeve (which melts near solder! Others of a similar shape have a fibre-like insulation sleeve - much more heat-resistant).

 

A selection of open-framed motors..............

 

motors.jpg.a806c3917dbaab40d7b3d078aec23c20.jpg

 

From top to bottom - Hornby X03 three-pole, Tri-ang/Hornby X04 three pole, MW005/Airfix 1001 five pole (the two are identical, and have two insulation sleeves - ideal for DCC!), Jepson five-pole and Jepson seven-pole (the Rolls Royce of this motor type). 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

 

 

Edited by Tony Wright
typo error
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1 hour ago, Woodcock29 said:

Tony

I still have a NuCast O2/2 running on its w/m lump. I filed out the gear slot so I could fit a large Portescap - this was back in 1982!

It's had new wheels once, when Romford introduced 14 spoke 18mm as an option to their 16 spoke 18mm.

I've even got a secondhand O2/3 that I got really cheap as a non-runner on its lump chassis. Didn't take long to get  it running but the glued body fell apart so it needs to be cleaned up and soldered together some time. That will also have a large Portescap fitted.

Andrew

Andrew,

 

What do you chaps do when you're no getting white metal lumps for chassis to run; perfectly?

 

Celebrate your birthday on December the 25th?

Turn water into wine?

Raise the dead?

Walk on water?

Resurrect yourselves?

Or perform any other miracles?

 

I can do none of these things, especially getting white metal lumps to work!

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

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47 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

Andrew,

 

What do you chaps do when you're no getting white metal lumps for chassis to run; perfectly?

 

Celebrate your birthday on December the 25th?

Turn water into wine?

Raise the dead?

Walk on water?

Resurrect yourselves?

Or perform any other miracles?

 

I can do none of these things, especially getting white metal lumps to work!

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

 

If you have a big lump of whitemetal with the axle holes drilled through all parallel and the right distance apart, as I had, it really wasn't difficult and the ones I did were actually easier than trying to make up separate frames and get them lined up properly. I had forgotten the GEM NLR dock tank, and the LNWR Chopper Tank and 2-4-2T also from GEM, so I have built 5 and 4 are still as they were built. The NLR tank, Chopper tank and 2-4-2T are in regular use and run decent mileages on Narrow Road. The J6 took a whole couple of hours to get running and the longest bit was (should I admit this here?) drilling out the holes in the wheels with a 1mm drill in a Dremel type drill, (no pillar or vertical stand in sight) and hammering track pins in for crankpins.

 

I did later convert it to EM by adding overlays each side of 40 thou plasticard and I added brakes at the same time using 40 thou plastic rod as the hangers and cross shafts. No shorts on this one! 

 

The things you do when you are young and fearless!  

Edited by t-b-g
Hopefully corrected punctuation!
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The next V2 picture................

 

1173452314_60826and60982.jpg.df725b451f2b8b633f814d4cbf3600ef.jpg

 

60826 (to the left) was built/painted/weathered by John Houlden and was loaned to Roy Jackson when john went up a scale. Roy built EM chassis for the loco and tender for it to run on Retford. After Roy's death, it was returned to John and he gave it to me as a 'reward' for my finding new homes for his OO Gauge stuff; a most-generous donation indeed! I built a Comet OO chassis for it, narrowed the tender wheels' gauge, and sold the EM frames on behalf of CRUK. 

 

The loco is a real mixture of parts from DJH, Comet and DMR. 

 

The approaching 60982 is a more-recent Nu-Cast build of mine, running on Comet frames. Geoff Haynes painted this one. 

 

 

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6 minutes ago, t-b-g said:

 

If you have a big lump of whitemetal with the axle holes drilled through all parallel and the right distance apart, as I had, it really wasn't difficult and the ones I did were actually easier than trying to make up separate frames and get them lined up properly. I had forgotten the GEM NLR dock tank, and the LNWR Chopper Tank and 2-4-2T also from GEM, so I have built 5 and 4 are still as they were built. The NLR tank, Chopper tank and 2-4-2T are in regular use and run decent mileages on Narrow Road. The J6 took a whole couple of hours to get running and the longest bit was (should I admit this here?) drilling out the holes in the wheels with a 1mm drill in a Dremel type drill, (no pillar or vertical stand in sight) and hammering track pins in for crankpins.

 

I did later convert it to EM by adding overlays each side of 40 thou plasticard and I added brakes at the same time using 40 thou plastic rod as the hangers and cross shafts. No shorts on this one! 

 

The things you do when you are young and fearless!  

Obviously there's never been a need for you to learn to swim, Tony! 

 

One I didn't mention was a Nu-Cast B1. When I was younger (I've never been fearless), I tried to make the white metal chassis for it work. The holes in the chassis lump didn't match those in the coupling rods! Not just a by a bit, but way out. The coupling rod holes ended up sausage-shaped. Did it run properly? Need I ask? 

 

The B16 lump was twisted, so wasn't even contemplated.

 

I suppose I was very lucky in having access to a comprehensive school metalwork shop, with a grand array of machine tools. After the B1 and B16 experience, I just scratch-built brass frames, taking wheel centres from the etched coupling rods. 

 

Regards,

 

Tony.  

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8 minutes ago, t-b-g said:

 

If you have a big lump of whitemetal with the axle holes drilled through all parallel and the right distance apart, as I had, it really wasn't difficult and the ones I did were actually easier than trying to make up separate frames and get them lined up properly. I had forgotten the GEM NLR dock tank, and the LNWR Chopper Tank and 2-4-2T also from GEM, so I have built 5 and 4 are still as they were built. The NLR tank, Chopper tank and 2-4-2T are in regular use and run decent mileages on Narrow Road. The J6 took a whole couple of hours to get running and the longest bit was (should I admit this here) drilling out the holes in the wheels with a 1mm drill in a Dremel type drill, (no pillar or vertical stand in sight) and hammering track pins in for crankpins.

 

I did later convert it to EM by adding overlays each side of 40 thou plasticard and I added brakes at the same time using 40 thou plastic rod as the hangers and cross shafts. No shorts on this one! 

 

The things you do when you are young and fearless!  

I still have a number of Nu-Cast kits running on their original white metal lumps (& yes still with X04's ) & they still run pretty well ; good enough for my requirements , though maybe not up to heavy use on a large layout such as LB . It is not a route that I would follow now , but it is what was provided at the time & hey , if it isn't broken , don't fix it .

                                    Cheers ,

                                         Ray . 

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12 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

Obviously there's never been a need for you to learn to swim, Tony! 

 

One I didn't mention was a Nu-Cast B1. When I was younger (I've never been fearless), I tried to make the white metal chassis for it work. The holes in the chassis lump didn't match those in the coupling rods! Not just a by a bit, but way out. The coupling rod holes ended up sausage-shaped. Did it run properly? Need I ask? 

 

The B16 lump was twisted, so wasn't even contemplated.

 

I suppose I was very lucky in having access to a comprehensive school metalwork shop, with a grand array of machine tools. After the B1 and B16 experience, I just scratch-built brass frames, taking wheel centres from the etched coupling rods. 

 

Regards,

 

Tony.  

 

I think it is something where perhaps a deal of luck rather than skill was involved. It would have been long before the days of CNC machines and I would guess that the blocks were cast first and then drilled on a pillar drill or milling machine afterwards.

 

The later ones I did, I can remember thinking to myself that if the holes and rods were OK I would carry on and if they were out I would make new frames but they were all very accurate. The GEM NLR tank was built in 3 evenings. One for the body, one for the mechanism and one to add details and spray it black. Nowadays, I take many months to build a loco as my attitude to taking short cuts and tolerating kit bits that are not quite right has changed. If I know something is wrong, I will change it or replace it. Back then it was "shake the box" and put whatever was provided together, whether it be right or wrong. Sometimes, I am not too sure which approach I enjoy most. The quick result "build it as it came in the box" or the "take my time and get it as right as I can".

Edited by t-b-g
Typed it without glasses on. Big mistake!
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7 hours ago, AY Mod said:

 

I'd like to respond to this if I may?

 

Over the last few months it has not been possible to originate new material which entails visiting modellers or attending any events and, in this aspect, the layout content drew upon archive material. In several cases alternate or additional images were used which had not appeared on the printed page and in several cases additional or alternate text so that not all were a direct copy of anything which readers may have originally seen. Many 'visitors' may not have seen the previously published content anyway and some print readers may not have seen the accompanying video content so at very least it's taking material to potential new readers too.

 

We did discuss imposing on layout owners to generate additional video material but many of the layouts aren't 'home' layouts and live in clubrooms which couldn't be accessed and would need erecting and filling with stock and that's before getting owners to suddenly become filmmakers. I've seen Facebook Live videos of layouts and, generally, it's not something which works well for a critical audience (putting it kindly).

 

The world's been a different place so we've had to think differently in lieu of the show at Ally Pally.

 

Plus it was free.

Andy

I agree with so many that you should be congratulated for putting the show together when we were all getting show withdrawl issues. I very much enjoyed it and perhaps even though we will hopefully be able to travel to shows in the future, why not have a virtual show every year. This would be great for those that cannot travel and over two days there is lots of time and opportunity to indulge. Donations optional?

It would also be great if some of the U-tube videos remained available for further use / learning.

In particular I have already found the remote control adaption of road vehicles but is your photo shop (training) going to be available. It was very well done - thanks.

Cheers

Dave W

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I think it's safe to say that no loco on Little Bytham runs on a white metal chassis...........

 

I'm delighted to hear of so many running so well. And, to be fair, it's just crossed my mind that I sold an O2/2 to Geoff West. It came from the late John Brown's collection, was built from a Nu-Cast kit (builder unknown), had a Portescap motor and ran beautifully. 

 

Such mysteries are beyond me, however.

 

Anyway, the last couple of V2 shots.

 

432739329_6085801.jpg.163a6111599f529517d8e6511430fd9f.jpg

 

1703961393_6085802.jpg.8fd9c5ec61c3a1c2b1eda0abb0934957.jpg

 

This has a Graeme King resin body, Comet chassis and Bachmann tender. Graeme gave me the body and requested what I thought of it. I was delighted, and bought another one! Geoff Haynes painted it. 

 

It's actually anomalous for Little Bytham's period, having a double Kylchap chimney (the station had gone by the time it was fitted). No matter, Rule 1 applies! 

 

There are other V2s on LB, but I think those I've shown today will do for now.....................

 

 

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13 minutes ago, zr2498 said:

but is your photo shop (training) going to be available.

 

If it disappears before you've worked through it just drop me a PM and I can send you a link. Thanks Dave.

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I have just fitted a new chassis to a Nu Cast V2 built by my late Father. The chassis eventually "failed" by cracking around the middle axle. I have a problem with a G5 which has a "bendy" drive axle..of course it wasn't just NuCast. I bought a Gem G2 from Colin Judge many years ago. After a lot of running the chassis failed.. also now replaced by a Comet one. Strangely my Nucast Q6 chassis is fine - it is fitted with an MW005 motor which devours electricity but can pull a house down!

 

Is anyone doing a etched G5 chassis as I could never scratch build one?

 

Baz

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18 minutes ago, Barry O said:

I have just fitted a new chassis to a Nu Cast V2 built by my late Father. The chassis eventually "failed" by cracking around the middle axle. I have a problem with a G5 which has a "bendy" drive axle..of course it wasn't just NuCast. I bought a Gem G2 from Colin Judge many years ago. After a lot of running the chassis failed.. also now replaced by a Comet one. Strangely my Nucast Q6 chassis is fine - it is fitted with an MW005 motor which devours electricity but can pull a house down!

 

Is anyone doing a etched G5 chassis as I could never scratch build one?

 

Baz

Good evening Baz,

 

A dear, late friend built a GEM Super D to run on Fordley Park, but he could never get it to run properly.

 

I replaced the cast metal lump with a scratch-built alternative, fitting a motor of the Jepson type illustrated earlier. 

 

It's now the property of a friend, and (as far as I know) is still going strong after over 40 years.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

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My apologies,

 

I've told a lie! 791123734_MillholmeLMS2P01.jpg.99ccc5a398ca928196dc0c878a7e6447.jpg

 

This loco has a white metal chassis. It's the ancient Millholme one I got to work a month ago. 

 

It even has a K's HP2M motor! 

 

I've tidied it up a bit more, and I think what I'll do now is build a Comet set of frames for it, fitting an up-to-date motor/gearbox.

 

It featured in my presentation during the weekend's virtual exhibition (what a great idea the whole thing was), but anyone with even half-decent sight will realise it should run better. 

 

 

 

 

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36 minutes ago, Barry O said:

I have just fitted a new chassis to a Nu Cast V2 built by my late Father. The chassis eventually "failed" by cracking around the middle axle. I have a problem with a G5 which has a "bendy" drive axle..of course it wasn't just NuCast. I bought a Gem G2 from Colin Judge many years ago. After a lot of running the chassis failed.. also now replaced by a Comet one. Strangely my Nucast Q6 chassis is fine - it is fitted with an MW005 motor which devours electricity but can pull a house down!

 

Is anyone doing a etched G5 chassis as I could never scratch build one?

 

Baz

 

I've not bought from them but 52F do one - https://www.52fmodels.org/about-us

 

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21 hours ago, cctransuk said:

 

I, too, have investigated this problem.

 

Physical examination of the slider track, plus online information from someone who had reverse-engineered the Walkabout, and at one time undertook repairs, confirmed that the problem in question is caused by wear of the carbon track of the variable resistor slider. This is part of the main circuit board and is thus irrepairable - more's the pity, as I have several duff ones!

 

John Isherwood.

Hello,

       Powdered pencil lead and superglue could be used to reconstruct the track of the variable resistor. Fiddly to do but possible.

trustytrev.

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17 hours ago, Daniel W said:

Some more lockdown modelling of a different kind. I've been meaning to learn 3D modelling for printing off for a while and finally got round to it. The initial test subject is this LMS Sand Wagon, made in Tinkercad. Mainly chosen because its one of the more simple wagons in the diagram book! Buffers, axleboxes, w-irons and brake-gear will be added from available etches and castings. It's a little rough around the edges, but i'm pleased with the initial result. Although the real test will be how it 3D prints. Whilst Tinkercad is incredibly easy to use (i've never done any 3D modelling before and picked it up quickly), it does have its limitations. So now it's on to learning the frankly baffling Fusion 360, which should pay off in the long term.

 

The small holes in the solebar and headstock are for the insertion of brass wire to represent a number of strange hooks these wagons seem to have, along with the usual towing eye on each solebar. The hooks look more substantial than the usual cleats you find on opens and given the nature of the traffic, i'd assume they are for holding down some sort of heavy-duty tarp or cover to keep the sand from leaking out. Alas, since only a hundred were ever built, i have no pictures of them in traffic.

 

Regards

Daniel

LMS SAND WAGON.png

I am also trying to get my head around Fusion 360.  I can now draw 2D squares and rectangles and even get them one inside the other.  Cant wait to start on 3D!!

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13 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

You're absolutely right, Andy.

 

Observers might  note, my little contribution to the virtual exhibition was 'filmed' outside, by Howard Smith at a safe distance away. I'd shot the footage of the locos in question, in motion, on Little Bytham, a couple of days before. 

 

One slightly-distracting aspect of the 'talking head' footage was the black pole supporting the parasol above the (rather tatty) round table. It wasn't acting entirely as a sun shade that day, but also as an umbrella! Time was tight, and it was a day of 'sunny periods and scattered showers'. 

 

Normally, I'd have done a piece to camera in my workshop, but coronavirus prevented that. 

 

I think all the participants did exceptionally well, given the circumstances.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

I have sometimes thought about getting a camera primarily for the Model Railway but end up being frustrated by the multitude of reviews each one saying they are the best thing since sliced bread.  Would it be appropriate to discuss this on this thread rather than start a new thread?  The reason I ask is that this thread appears to attract a lot of like minded individuals so any response could be focused and short.

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1 hour ago, Tony Wright said:

I think it's safe to say that no loco on Little Bytham runs on a white metal chassis...........

 

I'm delighted to hear of so many running so well. And, to be fair, it's just crossed my mind that I sold an O2/2 to Geoff West. It came from the late John Brown's collection, was built from a Nu-Cast kit (builder unknown), had a Portescap motor and ran beautifully. 

 

Such mysteries are beyond me, however.

 

Anyway, the last couple of V2 shots.

 

432739329_6085801.jpg.163a6111599f529517d8e6511430fd9f.jpg

 

1703961393_6085802.jpg.8fd9c5ec61c3a1c2b1eda0abb0934957.jpg

 

This has a Graeme King resin body, Comet chassis and Bachmann tender. Graeme gave me the body and requested what I thought of it. I was delighted, and bought another one! Geoff Haynes painted it. 

 

It's actually anomalous for Little Bytham's period, having a double Kylchap chimney (the station had gone by the time it was fitted). No matter, Rule 1 applies! 

 

There are other V2s on LB, but I think those I've shown today will do for now.....................

 

 

You beat me to it Tony. I was going to mention the O2/2, it does run well.

 

Regards,

 

Geoff.

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What I have done in lockdown.  Just to be different, a few things from over the Irish sea.  The camera is a cruel device the locos look better at layout viewing distance and horror of horrors they are 16.5 mm narrow gauge! I claim the not enough life878967680_DieselA7.jpg.81fd0a706694d4476421ef243f89c427.jpg624786751_DieselC2012.jpg.8ee176139c2caef1e008ca357e6b7409.jpgIMG_6655.JPG.e2aaa638719ccd9cf1f9008400d22620.JPGIMG_6650.JPG.cca611afe458a76c51a1498c79833cb4.JPGtime card.

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Whitemetal Chassis? 

 

      I have three still, all Nucast , a J21 , J27 and a Q6 . All over 30 years old and all still work well. I have no memories of any major problems building them . A product of their time chunky bodywork, and undersized Boilers in the case of the J27 and Q6 as well. Whitemetal is no problem if kept well oiled , Car bearings run on similar metal after all.

    I also had a G5 with a whitemetal chassis ,dire thing weighed a ton and never worked, and was sold on many years ago.

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A bit more work on the LSWR coaches:

 

lswr2.jpg.7d3820485f0669296af812acbd259cb8.jpg

 

The composite seemed to be easier to build than the brake, so I wondered why. It was only when I compared the boxes that I realised the wrong instructions had been packed in the

brake! Everything makes a lot more sense with the right instructions.

 

I had a go at building the working gangway from the Roxey parts but after deciding that I could never get it work reliably, I'll be fitting MJT ones to these coaches. One of my three

kits came with cast gangways in addition to the etched parts.

 

I can''t vouch for the accuracy of the kits as they stand, but they are very good products in terms of the fit of parts and ease of assembly. The only slight mod I had

to do was to elongate the fixing holes in the chassis a bit. Everything else was an excellent fit straight from the etch.

 

Al

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