Wright writes.....

[Jol Wilkinson]

12 hours ago, Headstock said:

 

Good evening Jol,

 

It doesn't really matter, I'm not someone who usually builds kits as they come straight out of the box , or necessarily, slavishly believes everything a manufacturer has to say about a prototype, at least not without checking things for myself.

 

That doesn't necessarily make a particular kit  or manufacturer bad but it dose mean that a kit is  often only a starting point. For example, the boiler bands in the photograph of the B16/1 that you have posted, are massively overscale. I would have to change them for a more aesthetically pleasing and more accurate representation. It's not a deal breaker for myself, as far as purchasing the kit is concerned. Many would not be bothered, armoured plated boiler bands have proved immensely popular over the years but they are not for me.

 

10 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

Good evenng Andrew,

 

It puzzles me why folk solder on cladding bands of any description.

 

In the case of the etched B16s, I let the lining bands do their stuff. They represent the cladding bands perfectly, and, since for most of their lives, the B16s were lined, then perfect. 

 

For non-lined locos, I use self-adhesive insulation tape, cut to width.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

 

Gentlemen,

 

I agree entirely about metal boiler cladding bands. Transfers/decals are fine for lined liveries or thin tape strips for plain. A problem arises where the designer has etched a locating groove in the boiler for the boiler band, although that reduces the effective thickness of the metal band. For those reasons the loco kits I have designed for John Redrup at LRM all have a "plain" boiler and no etched bands. That includes the Type 49A boiler for the LRM B16, which was added to the kit for the later variant.

 

Researching and designing kits isn't always easy, although thankfully (for me at least) the LNWR tended to stick to a prototype design once it entered service. Not so some other railway companies.

 

Jol.

[Tony Wright]

11 hours ago, Headstock said:

 

 

Good evening Tony,

 

It was one of the first things I noticed about your locomotives back in the day, highly effective.

 

 

 

I'm a great admirer of Mike's B16/2, probably the finest that I have seen. I didn't realise it had been shown earlier, I shall look back up the thread. I wonder what happened to it, I believe it was produced for someone else?

 

Correction, 61437, lucky you!

Good morning Andrew,

 

I'm very lucky indeed!

 

 

 

These views show up the quality of Mike Edge's build. 

 

Following on from Mike's comment, the reason I changed the motor/gearbox was not because the original combo wasn't powerful enough, but because it was too noisy. I've found this with Branchlines' gearboxes. Some are super-sweet and quiet, yet others (even though - I think - I've put them together in exactly the same way) just make a racket. I changed the drive at Tom Foster's request (before it became my property). I've also found a similar situation with some Comet 'boxes, Markits 'boxes and, believe it or not, some High-Level ones. I don't know how many scores (hundreds?) of gearboxes I've put together, but some are perfect and some just aren't with regard to noise. They all work very well visually; it's just that some have made a clatter, which is usually  exacerbated by sticking a resonating metal lid on top! 

 

I installed a new DJH motor/gearbox (quiet as the grave!), but it produced an amusing (in hindsight) consequence. I needed to remove a little more metal beneath the firebox to accommodate the new drive. No problem; just get the little circular saw in the mini drill and achieve the goal. Except it also meant cutting through the bottom of the cladding band separating the boiler/firebox as well. I cut through it and - Oh dear! It was only soldered-on at the bottom, and it sprung off once I'd cut through it, revealing shining brass, with ragged edges. I had hoped not to have to have repainted this loco, but there was no alternative. So, a 'simple fix' turned out into stripping it (where nothing fell off - a testament to Mr. Edge's soldering), and a complete repaint. I had to strip the tender as well, because it was either lettered 'LNER' or 'British Railways', with the loco carrying its BR number; representative of the immediate post-Nationalisation scene. 

 

Thus, completely repainted, lined and lettered (by me), it then went back to Tom to be weathered, finally becoming my property. I doubt if I could build one so well. 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

 

Edited November 14, 2020 by Tony Wright
to add something

[Tony Wright]

11 hours ago, thegreenhowards said:

As unlikely as the A2/2s?!

Don't bet on it, Andy.

 

All I'd say is that no RTR manufacturer has approached me for assistance with regard the ex-NER B16s. Of course, this doesn't mean that any RTR manufacturer is not currently investigating the possibility (I'm not that important), but there's nothing on any radar I've looked at.

 

It was interesting regarding the A2/2 and A2/3s. It must be over three years ago that I was first approached by Hornby for assistance, yet nobody got wind of them until they were officially announced. It was the same with Bachmann's C1 Atlantic and Thompson carriages (I must be good at keeping secrets!). All I do is respect non-disclosure agreements, though what I will say is that I'm currently NOT helping any RTR manufacturers with regard to, say, GWR Pannier tanks..................

 

Regards,

 

Tony.

Edited November 14, 2020 by Tony Wright
typo error

[drmditch]

Good Morning.

I would not wish to speak ill of a notable supplier, but my limited experience of older DJH ex-NER kits gives me cause for concern. 

I have a long-term desire for class Z (C7) Atlantic. I have seen examples of what I think were DJH kits built by eminent and skilled modellers, but to me they do not look 'quite right'.  On my re-worked Q7 I had to increase the boiler diameter, since DJH had supplied one making no allowance for the cladding. The cylinders on my H2/A8 are scratch-built.

 

I have got the Isinglass drawing for the C7, a Dave Alexander tender and other published references and am wondering whether to buy and modify a DJH kit, or to attempt a scratch-build.

 

I would be grateful for any advice concerning the DJH kit, especially whether the wheelbase is correct.

 

I would also like a V (C6), and I think Mr Kimber is planning to produce one next year, but I'm not sure whether this is to be an original V or a V09 and I prefer the original with the wide splashers.

 

 

[Headstock]

1 hour ago, Michael Edge said:

The B16/2 was built from a PDK kit but I didn't like the clunky motion provided, particularly the slidebars and crossheads. It was originally fitted with what was then standard equipment for this isze of loco, a Mashima 14x26 motor on a Branchlines gearbox (I now use High Level boxes and more powerful motors as a rule), when Tony acquired it he changed the motor - presumably for a definitely superior DJH one.

The slidebars are laminated from the components on the left, this gives the correct appearance of a wide top bar and two lower bars instead of the usual two bars seen on most models. The crossheads are built up from the next components , two sides locate in the top plate with the connecting rod in the middle. There are two laminations for the return cranks, not visble here but they are partly half etched on each side to give clearance without bending the crank. Two lengths of eccentric rod are included, there is an error somewhere in the PDK kit and the correct length doesn't give the right movement to the expansion link. The roller bearing covers are included, these should really be brass but most B16s were reasonably filthy in service. On the right are two laminations for the slidebar bracket - an essential item which most models seem to ignore. There was a design error in this and it does need some modification to fit the kit. I used the coupling and connecting rods from the kit.

We can still supply this etch for £8.

 

Good morning Mike,

 

I would certainly be interested in an etch, what is the best way of going about ordering one?

 

 

[Roger Sunderland]

Yes Michael’s build of the B16/2 is superb and I followed the build when building my 16/3. There is an issue with the PDK valve gear, which Mike covers in his build thread and if I’d known his etch was still available I’d have used it - not tempted to put it right now though. Can I live with it? It runs so sweetly and when weathered.....

the tender brake gear is another issue. Again, the kit is wrong here as the brake shoes should be different lengths but I can see a way to get round it.

 

[Michael Edge]

1 hour ago, Tony Wright said:

Good morning Andrew,

 

I'm very lucky indeed!

 

 

 

These views show up the quality of Mike Edge's build. 

 

Following on from Mike's comment, the reason I changed the motor/gearbox was not because the original combo wasn't powerful enough, but because it was too noisy. I've found this with Branchlines' gearboxes. Some are super-sweet and quiet, yet others (even though - I think - I've put them together in exactly the same way) just make a racket. I changed the drive at Tom Foster's request (before it became my property). I've also found a similar situation with some Comet 'boxes, Markits 'boxes and, believe it or not, some High-Level ones. I don't know how many scores (hundreds?) of gearboxes I've put together, but some are perfect and some just aren't with regard to noise. They all work very well visually; it's just that some have made a clatter, which is usually  exacerbated by sticking a resonating metal lid on top! 

 

I installed a new DJH motor/gearbox (quiet as the grave!), but it produced an amusing (in hindsight) consequence. I needed to remove a little more metal beneath the firebox to accommodate the new drive. No problem; just get the little circular saw in the mini drill and achieve the goal. Except it also meant cutting through the bottom of the cladding band separating the boiler/firebox as well. I cut through it and - Oh dear! It was only soldered-on at the bottom, and it sprung off once I'd cut through it, revealing shining brass, with ragged edges. I had hoped not to have to have repainted this loco, but there was no alternative. So, a 'simple fix' turned out into stripping it (where nothing fell off - a testament to Mr. Edge's soldering), and a complete repaint. I had to strip the tender as well, because it was either lettered 'LNER' or 'British Railways', with the loco carrying its BR number; representative of the immediate post-Nationalisation scene. 

 

Thus, completely repainted, lined and lettered (by me), it then went back to Tom to be weathered, finally becoming my property. I doubt if I could build one so well. 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

 

That's a bit unusual with the cladding band, I do normally solder them at the top as well - I didn't do this at one time, until I saw a couple of my P2s which had been professionally painted with most of the bands slid some way along the boiler (and then lined as well - they looked awful).

[Michael Edge]

54 minutes ago, Headstock said:

 

Good morning Mike,

 

I would certainly be interested in an etch, what is the best way of going about ordering one?

 

 

 

You can send a cheque (payable to Judith Edge) to:

5, Chapel Lane,

Carlton,

Barnsley

S.Yorks.

S71 3LE

Alternatively you can pay by PayPal to edgemd@aol.com or phone us on 01226 722309 with a card number.

Judith and Michael Edge

 

 

[Michael Edge]

I should have added £1.50 postage to that price for the B16 etch - so £9.50 total.

[CF MRC]

It’s a misty morning at York Road tube station, not many people about yet, and the sun is yet to burn through. Clifford’s fruit, veg and groceries is already open though.

Tim

[Headstock]

21 minutes ago, Michael Edge said:

I should have added £1.50 postage to that price for the B16 etch - so £9.50 total.

 

Good morning Mike, I have sent you a Pay pal payment for the amount stated and my address details, many thanks.

[Woodcock29]

Here's my B16/1. Its a DJH kit I bought built secondhand about 25 years ago for $120 (about £50 at that time). I completely rebuilt it about 20 years ago.  I moved the splashers in about 1mm on each side so the frames were straight and not kinked out as they are in the kit. I paid a bit of attention  to the sides of the saddle to improve that. It has a different chimney which is a really a bit too fat as I thought the DJH chimney was too small. I have recently bought a PDK chimney to fit. I have a lso got new Comet crossheads and plan to make new cylinders and slidebars as I think those in the kit look very bulky. Its a bit low at the front so needs to be lifted about 1mm. Its in plain black as I understand some were not lined in the years leading up to WW2.

 

I've just compared it to the Isinglass drawing I acquired secondhand a few years ago. Its about 4mm too short over the footplate and about 2mm too short in the boiler. The other 2mm is in the front section of the footplate.  The boiler is also about 1mm too narrow. The driving wheels are set a bit too far forward so in essence the wheelbase is a bit too short- perhaps not such a bad thing?

 

I've also got a B16/3 that I was given to rebuild and as that will really only suit a BR period for me its a long way off!

 

Andrew

Edited November 14, 2020 by Woodcock29

[Blandford1969]

Is it my imagination or are lots of people far more critical of models. Such as the discussion on the B16's , If it looks like a B16 then for me anyway it would be good enough. The same seems to apply with the ready to run stuff that more and more fidelity and accuracy is demanded by some but then they are not happy with the price. It does seem sad that kit or scratch building appears in steep decline . Could it be in the 'instant' society which has developed over the last decade or so there is not the patience for such skills, which are far more satisfying. 

[ArthurK]

5 hours ago, drmditch said:

 

I would also like a V (C6), and I think Mr Kimber is planning to produce one next year, but I'm not sure whether this is to be an original V or a V09 and I prefer the original with the wide splashers.

 

 

I am planning to produce  both the original V Class and the later version the V/09. The basic kit design is advancing well but things like new castings take time. These had a 4125 gallon tender but, it was not the standard as used be later Q6s and C7s, Q7s and B16s. These C6 tenders were also used on the D21. The latter were passed on to J39s.

 

Below is a test build of the V0/9 built some five years ago. 

 

ArthurK

[Blandford1969]

2 hours ago, ArthurK said:

I am planning to produce  both the original V Class and the later version the V/09. The basic kit design is advancing well but things like new castings take time.

Is it correct the castings would also be suitable for the C7s ?. If they are you will be certainly having an order for a 2 sets of castings

[Clive Mortimore]

9 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

Good morning Andrew,

 

I'm very lucky indeed!

 

 

 

These views show up the quality of Mike Edge's build. 

 

Following on from Mike's comment, the reason I changed the motor/gearbox was not because the original combo wasn't powerful enough, but because it was too noisy. I've found this with Branchlines' gearboxes. Some are super-sweet and quiet, yet others (even though - I think - I've put them together in exactly the same way) just make a racket. I changed the drive at Tom Foster's request (before it became my property). I've also found a similar situation with some Comet 'boxes, Markits 'boxes and, believe it or not, some High-Level ones. I don't know how many scores (hundreds?) of gearboxes I've put together, but some are perfect and some just aren't with regard to noise. They all work very well visually; it's just that some have made a clatter, which is usually  exacerbated by sticking a resonating metal lid on top! 

 

I installed a new DJH motor/gearbox (quiet as the grave!), but it produced an amusing (in hindsight) consequence. I needed to remove a little more metal beneath the firebox to accommodate the new drive. No problem; just get the little circular saw in the mini drill and achieve the goal. Except it also meant cutting through the bottom of the cladding band separating the boiler/firebox as well. I cut through it and - Oh dear! It was only soldered-on at the bottom, and it sprung off once I'd cut through it, revealing shining brass, with ragged edges. I had hoped not to have to have repainted this loco, but there was no alternative. So, a 'simple fix' turned out into stripping it (where nothing fell off - a testament to Mr. Edge's soldering), and a complete repaint. I had to strip the tender as well, because it was either lettered 'LNER' or 'British Railways', with the loco carrying its BR number; representative of the immediate post-Nationalisation scene. 

 

Thus, completely repainted, lined and lettered (by me), it then went back to Tom to be weathered, finally becoming my property. I doubt if I could build one so well. 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

 

Hello Tony

 

The B16/2 is lovely but I am not replying to say that I have a question. Is the Hybarshock a barrier wagon?

 

The tanks wagons look like B tanks (painted black) and tanks carrying products that are transported in B tanks do not need a barrier wagon as their flash point is quite high. B tanks can also be used as barrier wagons for A tanks (painted silver or grey with a red solebar) carry products with a low flash point.

 

 

[Tony Wright]

2 hours ago, Blandford1969 said:

Is it my imagination or are lots of people far more critical of models. Such as the discussion on the B16's , If it looks like a B16 then for me anyway it would be good enough. The same seems to apply with the ready to run stuff that more and more fidelity and accuracy is demanded by some but then they are not happy with the price. It does seem sad that kit or scratch building appears in steep decline . Could it be in the 'instant' society which has developed over the last decade or so there is not the patience for such skills, which are far more satisfying. 

I'm in complete agreement...........

 

The model B16s look like B16s to me. If the only way to check if they're accurate or not is to measure the odd mm, then that suggests, in the main, the naked eye is unaware of discrepancies. I agree, many have been altered/improved, but that's what modelling is all about. If none of the kits suit, then my advice is to scratch-build, or go without. Or pay a pro to do it for you (the generic 'you'). 

 

I'm not advocating non-critical comment (Wright Writes is all about constructive criticism) and I can't stand all the swooning and fawning one occasionally sees elsewhere, but I'd hate anyone to be dissuaded from building a kit. Already, we've had comments along those lines. 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

 

 

[Tony Wright]

15 minutes ago, Clive Mortimore said:

Hello Tony

 

The B16/2 is lovely but I am not replying to say that I have a question. Is the Hybarshock a barrier wagon?

 

The tanks wagons look like B tanks (painted black) and tanks carrying products that are transported in B tanks do not need a barrier wagon as their flash point is quite high. B tanks can also be used as barrier wagons for A tanks (painted silver or grey with a red solebar) carry products with a low flash point.

 

 

It's not, Clive.

 

It was the first wagon I grabbed which had a Sprat & Winkle coupling (the others have my own non-automatic couplings).

 

Rumbled again!

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[grahame]

There's been some slow progress on my gasholder station scene based on the Old Kent Road one. The holder is a bashed kit but all the other structures are scratch-built. It's not up to the same standards as Copenhagen Fields but is N/2mm scale. Here's how it looks to date with the structures in their correct relative locations:

 

 

The card carcass to the right of the holder is an unfinished building of the meter workshops. At the front of the works either side of the entrance are two low modernish structures - a gas showroom (also unfinished) and the security/gate house - on the left of the pic.

 

There will be another modernish block - a pump/booster house - that was built at an angle between the gate house and the meter workshops. The Old Kent Road runs at an angle in the pic cutting the bottom left corner. However there is another road, just in front of the gate house, that starts towards the holder but bends round in front of the meter workshop. building.

 

 

[Tony Wright]

Readers might recall my fairly recent showing of a 'hybrid' J6 I'd put together. It came from Roy Jackson's estate, and there was speculation as to who had made the parts and put some of them together. In the end, I made it into a 521 Series J6, using Nu-Cast/SEF parts, including the chassis. 

 

Which meant I had a sort of 'half J6 kit left over. A quick phone call to Dave Ellis last week resulted in his sending me all the parts I'd used (or almost: I forgot some). 

 

The other J6 had a chassis. It was built in OO Gauge and was beam-compensated. It looked well-made; a possible R J construction, but why to OO width? Unless it was made for a friend of his. Or made by a friend of his? Nobody seems to know its provenance. 

 

Anyway, nothing daunted I fitted the wheels/motor/gearbox/pick-ups/rods yesterday morning, getting it running very sweetly. I then proceeded to make the cast metal body to fit it, completing it this afternoon....................

 

 

No cleaning up has taken place.

 

 

The beam compensation is visible. The drive is a Comet/Canon combo, producing really sweet-running; powerful, too.

 

It doesn't have a Blu-Tak capuchon; it wouldn't stand upside down otherwise!

 

Just the tender to make now, then paint it...............................

 

 

[mullie]

In the spirit of showing what we have been up to I have built this, a wagon turntable cobbled together out of plasticard, scrap copperclad and track parts. In the absence of an EM gauge horse (never seen a narrow gauge one) I will have to rope shunt the siding which I believe was more common in East Anglia than using a chain. This simple video shows it working.

 

 

The operating mechanism was built using a kit of parts found on Ebay.

 

 

The photo shows my hacking of the baseboard, as it is just 2 foot by 1 the structure is not compromised, The gap to the right will be part of a small harbour. Now I know it works all will be tidied. I am no carpenter and I tend to build layouts out of recycled wood acquired from various sources, mainly free but everything works.

 

Martyn

[grahame]

5 hours ago, Blandford1969 said:

 It does seem sad that kit or scratch building appears in steep decline .

 

I'm not so sure that is currently true especially in this pandemic. There are many comments that kit sales have picked up and manufacturers, retailers and societies (like the NGS who produce a large range of wagon kits) have apparently reported increased sales.

Of course, whether they get built is a different matter. But I've certainly built more kits and scratch-built models this year than previously.

 

 

[CF MRC]

57 minutes ago, grahame said:

There's been some slow progress on my gasholder station scene based on the Old Kent Road one. The holder is a bashed kit but all the other structures are scratch-built. It's not up to the same standards as Copenhagen Fields but is N/2mm scale. Here's how it looks to date with the structures in their correct relative locations:

 

 

 

 

That is very impressive Grahame and will make a fascinating scene.  The only difference is that YR tube station building has taken 6 months to get this far and even then includes inputs from four people. There is absolutely no need to make comparisons, when this is all your own superb work - knowing the area so well I really look forward to seeing your LB in the flesh. 

 

Tim

[Atso]

My own recent efforts have been limited recently due to having finally started a new job. However, I have been able to get somethings done including the CAD for these two 2-8-0 locos.

 

 

A pair of N gauge O2 bodies. On the left is an O2/1, while on the right is Gresley's prototype O2 '3461'. I don't recall seeing a model of 3461 before so this may be unique (almost certainly in N gauge). Both will end up with scratch built chassis using my newly acquired Proxxon MF 70 mill - surely a merging of new technologies and more traditional techniques(?). An O2/2 and O2/3 will eventually follow this pair.

[polybear]

11 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

I installed a new DJH motor/gearbox (quiet as the grave!), but it produced an amusing (in hindsight) consequence. I needed to remove a little more metal beneath the firebox to accommodate the new drive. No problem; just get the little circular saw in the mini drill and achieve the goal. Except it also meant cutting through the bottom of the cladding band separating the boiler/firebox as well. I cut through it and - Oh dear! It was only soldered-on at the bottom, and it sprung off once I'd cut through it, revealing shining brass, with ragged edges.

 

I've a suspicion that you may have invented some new words when that happened - am I warm Tony?

 

1 hour ago, Tony Wright said:

The beam compensation is visible. The drive is a Comet/Canon combo, producing really sweet-running; powerful, too.

 

It doesn't have a Blu-Tak capuchon; it wouldn't stand upside down otherwise!

 

Just the tender to make now, then paint it...............................

 

 

 

When I started to read this post Tony I was sure that you were going to say that the beam compensation was junked and everything soldered up solid.  You're not being seduced by the pull of the "dark side" by any chance are you?