Wright writes.....

[robertcwp]

18 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

Good morning Robert,

 

When the lockdown restrictions are eased, I'll crack on with fitting Retford's loco lamps as well. 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

As if by magic, you might find that the stock of lamps you provided has already been used up!

[robertcwp]

2 minutes ago, LNER4479 said:

Wow! I've just 'lost' myself for nearly an hour looking through this. What a fantastic resource indeed.

 

Thanks Clive for highlighting it but more fundamentally thanks to Robert for taking the time to put it together and make it available.

 

It will get some serious looking at as I start to get into the detail of Carlisle mid-late 1950s over the coming years ...

At the bottom right of each image, there is an arrow curving up to the right. If you click on that and select BB code, you can the paste the code into a message on this forum (you don't need to use the link button on the toolbar - just paste in the text) and the image will appear in it. Like this:

 

60158_Highdyke_1950s by Robert Carroll, on Flickr

[rowanj]

9 hours ago, D.Platt said:

I 

That is a very nice K3. I'm building one too, and finding whitemetal a bit of a pain after etched kits, weight advantage notwithstanding. On mine, I'm using one of High Level's small iron core motors, which fits nicely and allows me to drive off the centre axle. Photos show progress to date.

[D.Platt]

Morning Tony and all

I thought your A4 looked a little different to other Wills A4s I have seen , back in the day when DJH was always releasing 4mm loco kits an A4 was as you would say top of my wish list, I have two Hornby A4s which on my layout pull the nine coach rakes that I run without any problem, one day I may get round to putting comet chassis under them to improve the looks of their valve gear.

While I was painting the K3 I started the DJH 77xxx, it was the first chassis that I’ve used the Poppy wood jig on and have used a high level roadrunner gearbox (both purchased after seeing them on here ) I have always made my own motor mounting brackets before but I’am very pleased and impressed with the high level gearbox and will now continue to use them.

May I now recommend something, I use to always use etched primer undercoat, the  tinlets that Precision made years ago were brilliant but no longer available, I’ve tried the two part mix but had problems with them, so for a while I have been using Halfords grey primer, however maybe because I didn’t clean the loco properly I had trouble with the K3 , so I searched on eBay and sent off for an etched primer spray can, now Tony like you I paint the complete chassis before carrying on with the valve gear, the spray surprised me in the fact it’s black,  and it’s turned out so good and a hard finish that it doesn’t require a top coat.

 

[Tony Wright]

1 hour ago, robertcwp said:

As if by magic, you might find that the stock of lamps you provided has already been used up!

Don't worry,

 

I have some more.............................

[Tony Wright]

Bodywork all but complete................

 

 

 

Just the motion to make now. Time for a stiff drink!

 

 

[robertcwp]

3 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

Don't worry,

 

I have some more.............................

So do I, should be plenty in fact for all remaining engines and more besides!

[thegreenhowards]

1 hour ago, robertcwp said:

So do I, should be plenty in fact for all remaining engines and more besides!

That’s probably just as well as I do find that they drop off and get lost with monotonous regularity!

[MJI]

A quick question.

 

I am currently chucking a lot of parts together to knock up some branch line stock. (to run with 45xx and NBL D63xx)

 

I am having to make my own carriage ends.

 

I had to give up fretsawing and now using scissors, there is little detail on them just emergency thing and light jumpers.

 

Cutting like that is not a problem is it?

[65179]

19 hours ago, Clive Mortimore said:

Hi Robert

 

I was looking at that photo the other night on your flickr site, at first sight it looks like it could be riding a tad lower but the bottom of the solebar and the roof line up with the coaches either side so it must be different. I will have to check my Bachmann model of the BSK to see if they got that right. The FK between them seems to be more orthodox in its profile.

 

Robert's Flickr site is a wonderful resource if you haven't already had look, especially the coaches page.

 

The Bachmann Porthole BTK is correct and correctly features the sides overlapping the solebar etc introduced with the pre-porthole D1868 BTKs (although a batch of D1868s built at Wolverton lacked these features).

 

Useful discussion of these coaches in Coachmann's review here (CK discussed on 1st and BTK discussed on last pages of the thread):  

Simon 

 

 

Edited November 22, 2020 by 65179

[gr.king]

8 hours ago, D.Platt said:

 

May I now recommend something, I use to always use etched primer undercoat, the  tinlets that Precision made years ago were brilliant but no longer available, I’ve tried the two part mix but had problems with them, so for a while I have been using Halfords grey primer, however maybe because I didn’t clean the loco properly I had trouble with the K3 , so I searched on eBay and sent off for an etched primer spray can, now Tony like you I paint the complete chassis before carrying on with the valve gear, the spray surprised me in the fact it’s black,  and it’s turned out so good and a hard finish that it doesn’t require a top coat.

 

 

I note that is in fact a U-Pol product. I've used the grey variety, from Halfrauds, but had no idea that there's a black version. Some time spent looking at the mighty web suggests it is at present no more readily available in the UK than are hen's teeth. Do you have a link to a current, reasonably priced source please?

[drmditch]

Re: Coaching stock.

Full of admiration for the knowledge, erudition and modelling skill involved in the above posts. I haven't yet done much with mine but I am quite fussy about my mineral, goods and NPCS stock. I'm just getting round to unpacking items that have been packed away for six years. These include kit-built wagons first made nearly thirty years ago, and my own standards, and sources (thank you Mr Tatlow) have improved over that time, especially for below solebar detail.

 

However, I do have some passenger stock. Local services can be covered by non-vestibuled vehicles, partly re-built from old Hornby  models, and some of the newer Hornby vehicles. However, I have an idea for a long-distance train. It seems that most of the excellent LNER railways, such as Grantham, which I have seen are 'south of York.' My railway is emphatically in County Durham, and will need some GWR and/or some SR stock.

 

From the newer RTR stock mentioned above can anybody suggest something suitable? I would need BCKs, Corridor Firsts/ Thirds (or equivalent).

 

The 'catering core' (as Mr Banks calls it) will provided by some building projects of my own!

[St Enodoc]

1 hour ago, drmditch said:

Re: Coaching stock.

Full of admiration for the knowledge, erudition and modelling skill involved in the above posts. I haven't yet done much with mine but I am quite fussy about my mineral, goods and NPCS stock. I'm just getting round to unpacking items that have been packed away for six years. These include kit-built wagons first made nearly thirty years ago, and my own standards, and sources (thank you Mr Tatlow) have improved over that time, especially for below solebar detail.

 

However, I do have some passenger stock. Local services can be covered by non-vestibuled vehicles, partly re-built from old Hornby  models, and some of the newer Hornby vehicles. However, I have an idea for a long-distance train. It seems that most of the excellent LNER railways, such as Grantham, which I have seen are 'south of York.' My railway is emphatically in County Durham, and will need some GWR and/or some SR stock.

 

From the newer RTR stock mentioned above can anybody suggest something suitable? I would need BCKs, Corridor Firsts/ Thirds (or equivalent).

 

The 'catering core' (as Mr Banks calls it) will provided by some building projects of my own!

The Hornby GWR Collett BTK, TK and CK (built mid-1920s, lasted to 1960s) would be suitable if I've recalled your time period correctly. Unfortunately, they don't (yet) make a BCK. There's a Hawksworth BCK but that would be too modern for you I fear (built 1948-50, lasted to 1960s).

Edited November 22, 2020 by St Enodoc
Corrected dates for BCK

[polybear]

2 hours ago, gr.king said:

 

I note that is in fact a U-Pol product. I've used the grey variety, from Halfrauds, but had no idea that there's a black version. Some time spent looking at the mighty web suggests it is at present no more readily available in the UK than are hen's teeth. Do you have a link to a current, reasonably priced source please?

 

One of the Amazon reviews of the U-Pol product in the post above mentions "....the colour is very dark grey, almost black...."

There is a U-Pol Acid 8 version (available in black in the USA but not in UK it seems), which appears to get much higher product ratings on Amazon than the grey "Power Can" can flavour.  The grey can variety (if the dark grey/black? colour is suitable) appears to be a pretty good deal here:

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/UPol-PRIMER-Aerosol-Powercan-Primer/dp/B01NBN07Y9/ref=psdc_2495062031_t1_B0039EHREQ

 

A check of the safety data sheets for the Power Can and Acid 8 versions shows them to have different compositions; as to whether or not the Acid 8 version is also very dark grey/black is unclear.

 

HTH

Brian

Edited November 22, 2020 by polybear

[D.Platt]

2 hours ago, gr.king said:

 

I note that is in fact a U-Pol product. I've used the grey variety, from Halfrauds, but had no idea that there's a black version. Some time spent looking at the mighty web suggests it is at present no more readily available in the UK than are hen's teeth. Do you have a link to a current, reasonably priced source please?

Hi

I have just checked my eBay and notice it was listed as grey on the listing and dark grey on the product description, I was surprised when It sprayed Matt black and really pleased.

The eBay seller goes under “partcentuk” it arrived the following day and came from Redline car parts ltd.

Hope this helps     Dennis 

[micklner]

15 hours ago, D.Platt said:

Hi

I have just checked my eBay and notice it was listed as grey on the listing and dark grey on the product description, I was surprised when It sprayed Matt black and really pleased.

The eBay seller goes under “partcentuk” it arrived the following day and came from Redline car parts ltd.

Hope this helps     Dennis 

What metal was it sprayed onto ?. I have tried the Halfords and the Grey U Pol on Brass and both are useless. The normal Halfords  Grey primer gives better adhesion it's still not very good either.  .

 

Edit

         I was refering to useage on Brass re the Halfords normal grey primer. Easily rubs off on sharp edges , otherwise good on other metals . I have used it for many years and will continue to do so.

Edited November 23, 2020 by micklner

[Roger Sunderland]

I’ve used Halfords grey primer for the last 10 years or so- on everything from plastic to brass. No problems at all with adhesion, a terrific product in my opinion.

[gr.king]

11 hours ago, polybear said:

 

One of the Amazon reviews of the U-Pol product in the post above mentions "....the colour is very dark grey, almost black...."

There is a U-Pol Acid 8 version (available in black in the USA but not in UK it seems), which appears to get much higher product ratings on Amazon than the grey "Power Can" can flavour.  The grey can variety (if the dark grey/black? colour is suitable) appears to be a pretty good deal here:

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/UPol-PRIMER-Aerosol-Powercan-Primer/dp/B01NBN07Y9/ref=psdc_2495062031_t1_B0039EHREQ

 

A check of the safety data sheets for the Power Can and Acid 8 versions shows them to have different compositions; as to whether or not the Acid 8 version is also very dark grey/black is unclear.

 

HTH

Brian

 

I noted that one reference to very dark grey, but that alone doesn't inspire my confidence sufficiently to place an order for something listed simply as grey, perhaps to find on receipt that it is simply another mid-grey primer...

The No8 Acid etch that is sold at Halfrauds as grey is definitely not very dark grey.

[Anglian]

An alternative acid etch primer is available from Advanced paints.

 

www.advancedpaints.co.uk

 

I have used it a lot and during the summer months it's possible to waft on very thin coats. I think it needs to be at least 66 degrees F and less than 60% relative humidity to work properly but not more than around 77 degrees F otherwise it dries in the air when sprayed, not after it hits the model. You can tell if the air is too hot as you get a toothy surface on the model. You must spray this paint over a very clean and properly degreased metal for it to work.

I have recently tried Citadel Corax White primer and again onto degreased white metal or plastic it bonds extremely well. It can be used down to 15 degrees C. It retains better detail than the Advanced Paints primer – probably because it's designed for model making purposes. My plan is to switch over to this since I can buy it easily and it works so well.

In terms of scratch resistance the very best bonding primer I have ever come across is MIPA acid etch primer. I bought this for a classic car I'm restoring. It does have filler in it, which I wanted. I've brushed painted this on degreased metal and the scratch resistance is simply out of this world. This quality did make me wonder if it could be thinned enough to make it suitable for model making but I've not yet tried it and to be honest doubt I will given the other options.

Edited November 23, 2020 by Anglian

[chris p bacon]

I've used the Halfords etch primer without any problems.

 

I have noted that a couple who have had problems tended to want it to dry really quickly so put it in the airing cupboard/on top of radiator.  But the longer it takes to dry the more it etches into the metal so I keep it cool.

[D.Platt]

2 hours ago, micklner said:

What metal was it sprayed onto ?. I have tried the Halfords and the Grey U Pol on Brass and both are useless. The normal Halfords  Grey primer gives better adhesion it's still not very good either.  .

Like I said I had used the Halfords grey primer for a few years , and probably didn’t spend enough time preparing my K3 , but I wanted to go back to using an etched primer, so being in lockdown I searched on line,  both on Amerzon and eBay and went for the one off eBay.

I cleaned the running brass chassis and was expecting a grey spray and was surprised when it came out black or very dark grey ! 

What I like is the finish and hardness from the product, I had to really scrape it to remove a area to get back to bare brass , if it had been plan grey it would have achieved the desired requirement of etching into the brass.

Dennis

[Tony Wright]

3 hours ago, Roger Sunderland said:

I’ve used Halfords grey primer for the last 10 years or so- on everything from plastic to brass. No problems at all with adhesion, a terrific product in my opinion.

Good afternoon Roger,

 

I use Halfords rattle can car acrylic primer straight from the can on any model I make (which I'm painting), whatever the material used; with complete success. I also use the appropriate colour (Ford Burgundy red or satin black) straight from the can as well.

 

I tend to use red primer for maroon-painted carriages, and grey primer underneath anything black.

 

An excellent product in my opinion.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[TrevorP1]

19 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

Good afternoon Roger,

 

I use Halfords rattle can car acrylic primer straight from the can on any model I make (which I'm painting), whatever the material used; with complete success. I also use the appropriate colour (Ford Burgundy red or satin black) straight from the can as well.

 

I tend to use red primer for maroon-painted carriages, and grey primer underneath anything black.

 

An excellent product in my opinion.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

 

Those are my 'weapons of choice' too. Although I would add that I use the grey etch primer on anything metal. Being idle, the grey primer does for BR wagon grey - when it's weathered it's hard to tell any different.

[Headstock]

Isn't RM web a wonderful resource for the production and acquisition of new kits. I've sourced four this year and now have a small get to work pile.

Following on from the previous dia. 113 build, comes this dia. 45 BG kit from Ian Macdonald. The dia. 45 vans are a rather fascinating prototype, being of all-steel construction and built originally for the East Coast fleet. They featured in the formations of a number of famous LNER expresses and were painted and lined out to match the contemporary teak carriages. By my time period, a number had been cascaded to the areas. At least one was operating out of Leicester on cross country expresses. The subject of my build was reported to be still carrying its pre-war livery under a layer of grime as late as 1955.

 

So far the kit has been a dream to put together, it replicates the distinctive narrow body of the prototype. This is something that is rare in models of LNER BG's and speaks well of the quality of what you get.  The beading is such a recognizable characteristic of the prototype, it is replicated in the kit by a single etch that fits into half etch recesses in the body sides. Ian says this is the hardest part of the kit to put together. The tinning of the beading is quite time-consuming and I spent quite a bit of time, making sure everything was properly soldered in place, without too much mess.  The fit of the parts is so good, that I didn't have any problem with it, nor did anything come unstuck after the forming of the tumblehome.

 

At present, the sides are just mocked up on the internal spacers for photographic purposes. The spaces help to form the shape of the sides and provide some of the external door hinges. I will probably modify the spaces so that they are not visible through the top lights, this may depend on how dirty the finished model is!

One modification that I have made, is to the part of the overlay where it provides the top lights for the double doors. They were a separate item but very much part of the doors on the prototype. Photographs show that, rather than being a continuous strip as provided in the kit, they were slightly recessed in comparison to the top lights on the body side. Once the etch was soldered in place on the body, I replicated this by carefully filing back the overlay over the double doors and Guard's door. 
One little quirk of the kit is the provision of a top light over the guard's door, this should be a hooded ventilator, Ian has noted this and rather thoughtfully provided a number of blanking plate on the etch.

 

The next job will be to fit the door stops and the grab handles, then a good clean up and move on to the end assembly.
No Kirk kits were harmed in the production of this van, so far. I will definitely be fitting extended buffers though. 

[micklner]

1 hour ago, Headstock said:

Isn't RM web a wonderful resource for the production and acquisition of new kits. I've sourced four this year and now have a small get to work pile.

Following on from the previous dia. 113 build, comes this dia. 45 BG kit from Ian Macdonald. The dia. 45 vans are a rather fascinating prototype, being of all-steel construction and built originally for the East Coast fleet. They featured in the formations of a number of famous LNER expresses and were painted and lined out to match the contemporary teak carriages. By my time period, a number had been cascaded to the areas. At least one was operating out of Leicester on cross country expresses. The subject of my build was reported to be still carrying its pre-war livery under a layer of grime as late as 1955.

 

So far the kit has been a dream to put together, it replicates the distinctive narrow body of the prototype. This is something that is rare in models of LNER BG's and speaks well of the quality of what you get.  The beading is such a recognizable characteristic of the prototype, it is replicated in the kit by a single etch that fits into half etch recesses in the body sides. Ian says this is the hardest part of the kit to put together. The tinning of the beading is quite time-consuming and I spent quite a bit of time, making sure everything was properly soldered in place, without too much mess.  The fit of the parts is so good, that I didn't have any problem with it, nor did anything come unstuck after the forming of the tumblehome.

 

At present, the sides are just mocked up on the internal spacers for photographic purposes. The spaces help to form the shape of the sides and provide some of the external door hinges. I will probably modify the spaces so that they are not visible through the top lights, this may depend on how dirty the finished model is!

One modification that I have made, is to the part of the overlay where it provides the top lights for the double doors. They were a separate item but very much part of the doors on the prototype. Photographs show that, rather than being a continuous strip as provided in the kit, they were slightly recessed in comparison to the top lights on the body side. Once the etch was soldered in place on the body, I replicated this by carefully filing back the overlay over the double doors and Guard's door. 
One little quirk of the kit is the provision of a top light over the guard's door, this should be a hooded ventilator, Ian has noted this and rather thoughtfully provided a number of blanking plate on the etch.

 

The next job will be to fit the door stops and the grab handles, then a good clean up and move on to the end assembly.
No Kirk kits were harmed in the production of this van, so far. I will definitely be fitting extended buffers though. 

One in my pile , to be done in Teak livery in due course.

 

Another excellent kit build from a different source, by Steve Banks. Link below, for anybody who has'nt already seen it.

 

https://www.steve-banks.org/prototype-and-traffic/157-gresley-all-steel-bg

 

 

Edited November 23, 2020 by micklner