Wright writes.....

[60027Merlin]

2 hours ago, landscapes said:

Hi Eric

 

Any chance of you posting some photos when you have finished the painting and weathering 

 

Regards

 

David

 

D avid,

 

OK! Hopefully in a few months time. If you have a look at the layout section you will see the A2/3 in bits but at least the chassis and tender are finished.

 

Eric

 

 

 

[Steven B]

It's perfectly possible to glue a white metal & brass kit together. The problem is the choice of glue - you need to look further than the epoxies and superglues available at the local DIY shed. If the correct adhesive is good enough for the aerospace industry (including the space shuttle) I'm sure it'll be OK for a 4mm scale loco.

 

Steven B.

[t-b-g]

There are a couple of locos running on Narrow Road that Ken Hill put together with the original "Superglue" when it first became generally available.

 

They haven't fallen apart and no bits have come off.

 

Before I got a temperature controlled soldering iron I was a bit frightened of melting whitemetal (we are talking about a teenager some 45 years ago!) and my first few whitemetal kits were glued together with either "5 minute Araldite" or in some cases "Evostick".

 

Most of my loco building is done with solder now, mainly because I really enjoy soldering but I still use two part epoxy for things like fitting chimneys and domes. You get plenty of adjusting time and an already applied filler in any small gaps round the base. Ill fitting chimneys and domes are one of my pet hates and I always appreciate it when somebody takes the trouble to replicate the thickness of the edge and the closeness of the fit correctly.

 

I still sometimes glue a cab roof onto a tank loco too, so that if I need access to the inside if the cab, it is easier to remove without wrecking the paint.

 

With all these things, there are people who find a technique that suits the way they work and they develop certain methods and skills that make that technique work for them. Then there are people who tell them that their preferred method is rubbish and cannot possibly work!

 

 

[PMP]

This is a craftsman etched 02. Quite a few detail components are fixed with superglue of varying viscosity. As @Steven Bsays there’s glue, and there’s glue. On this as I recall I used superglue for the bonnet handles, lamps and some lamp irons,  fixing flush glazing and the cab roof. Using glue allowed me to get the wasp stripes in place and not worry about heat damage to decals or paint. The cab and bonnet handrails stand up to normal handling no problem.

Edited December 2, 2020 by PMP
Unpredictable text correcting

[grahame]

This N/2mm Z class was built from a white metal kit using superglue, mainly to demonstrate to the N gauge community (who are rather constructive modelling timid) that you don't need to be able to solder or to be concerned about white metal to make a kit. It also utilises an almost unaltered old Graham Farish chassis so that means there were no complex chassis, motor and motion (the rods/spaghetti hanging off the wheels) modifications needed:

 

[SteffanLlwyd]

To me 3MT 77XXXs are like starlings... almost beautiful.  I really wish someone would make them RTR in 4mm scale.  I saw a great 71/4 gauge one at the Great Cockcrow Railway a few years ago... so somebody loves ‘em besides myself!

[great central]

My first few loco kits were glued together, as they've been in boxes for 30 years or so I don't think they've fallen apart yet.

Also made what I think looks like a reasonable black 5 from a K's kit, certainly better than the one on offer from Hornby at the time, about 35 years ago.

[Barry Ten]

On the recent topic of LMS 4-6-0s and their tenders, here's my Lady Godiva (with some work done it since it was last shown), complete with flush tender when it should be rivetted.

 

 

In case it's of interest, the loco is the old Hornby body on a Comet chassis, towing a Comet tender.

 

I started it before Bachmann announced their Patriot, with the original work being to fit the body to an older Bachmann rebuilt Patriot/Scot chassis. That worked for a while but I managed to damage the chassis when attempting a DCC conversion, so a Comet one was substituted instead. I did a fair amount of butchery to the body to get it to fit over the Bachmann chassis, which then made for more work later on since I had to reinstate bits of the lower boiler I'd cut away for clearance.

 

 

There's quite a lot wrong with it of course, not just the incorrect tender, but the valve guides and the overall sit of the loco ideally needing to be a bit lower. Despite all that I'm happy with it.

 

Al

 

 

 

 

 

Edited December 2, 2020 by Barry Ten

[grahame]

A little progress on the building construction efforts while I'm in a posting mood . . . . 

 

 

 

The gate posts need some 3mm diameter white balls/beads (as lights) to sit on the little plinths on top and I need to remake the little canopy over the security gate house door. It should protrude a lot further according to a photo I recently discovered. Kerbstones and boundary fencing also need adding and the roads surfaces sorted out. However, the scene is starting to come together.

 

 

[Tony Wright]

The Model Loco Black Five is now complete.............

 

 

In case folk think I'm totally against gluing things in place, the chimney, top feed and dome are fixed on with five minute epoxy. As is the smokebox door. 

 

As I noted earlier, it was partly built (with glue) and I literally pulled it apart with my fingers. I have no idea which glue was used (not epoxy; probably superglue) but, other than it sticking tenaciously to the individual parts, it seemed useless at actually holding any parts together (a paradox?). I say tenacious, because it was tough stuff to shift off the bits in readiness for soldering. It seemed like the adhesive itself stuck to each component, but, under load, just sheared. 

 

I don't really care what others might believe, but holding brass frames together with superglue and fixing all the brake gear on with the same is not good practice in my opinion. I just pulled off the the glued-on cylinders with nothing more than finger/thumb pressure. Everything's now soldered! 

 

Has it been worth it? In monetary terms, definitely. I got this kit, plus a Portescap for 40 quid. Granted, I substituted accurate drivers (and bogie wheels), though the original wheels will be used elsewhere. The Bachmann tender cost me a further £12.00, and I bought the DJH motor/gearbox. I also have most of the main bits to make a Stanier 4,000 gallon welded tender as well. Geoff Haynes will paint it in lined BR black as 45235. 

 

I'm delighted with how she runs. 12 bogies (some heavy kit-builds) presented an easy load.

 

 

As did 40+ vans. 

 

I had two new RTR GW locos to test as well today. On these trains, they just polished the rails! 

 

 

[LNER4479]

47 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

The Model Loco Black Five is now complete.............

 

I'm delighted with how she runs. 12 bogies (some heavy kit-builds) presented an easy load.

 

Pah! Not properly tested until you try it on a proper hill. Just saying...

 

Just out of interest, how does the completed model match up against a drawing, Tony? And I'm referring to the kit itself in saying that. I've heard mixed comments - so just wondering how accurate the kit actually is? It would be interesting to see a square on broadside pic of the loco up along an equivalent picture of the real thing?

 

Of course, I look forward to the opportunity to have a close up inspection of the completed model itself in due course.

 

That's now a Duchess, 8F and Black 5 you've built in recent times - this thread is definitely looking up!

[Tony Wright]

53 minutes ago, LNER4479 said:

Pah! Not properly tested until you try it on a proper hill. Just saying...

 

Just out of interest, how does the completed model match up against a drawing, Tony? And I'm referring to the kit itself in saying that. I've heard mixed comments - so just wondering how accurate the kit actually is? It would be interesting to see a square on broadside pic of the loco up along an equivalent picture of the real thing?

 

Of course, I look forward to the opportunity to have a close up inspection of the completed model itself in due course.

 

That's now a Duchess, 8F and Black 5 you've built in recent times - this thread is definitely looking up!

I have the Roche drawing, Graham.

 

It would appear to match that, but that's not necessarily a good thing. These mixed comments: what do they suggest is wrong? I have to say (though I saw hundreds of 'Mickeys') I'm rather ignorant of their dimensions. 

 

Anyway, with a vaccine on the imminent horizon, you're more than welcome to test her on Shap at a future show. That's where the actual loco appears in the relevant Irwell volume.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[LNER4479]

Whilst we're on Stanier 4-6-0s ...

 

I'd normally post this on my own thread but as it involves some decidedly non-RTR loco work, thought it might be of interest here.

 

This loco was scratchbuilt for my Dad's layout some 40 years ago by a dear, late family friend. At the time it was 'pride of the line' and ran extensively on the layout (even though the Mainline Royal Scot came out at about the same time!). But it was sidelined some time ago with the words 'it keeps falling off'. After more than 20 years dormant, I've decided to have a go a reviving the old thing, for use on 'Hills of the North'. The real 46107 was a permanent fixture at 66A Polmadie in the BR steam era (appropriate enough, given the name), so a great 'fit' for Carlisle.

 

Here's the business end. An old five-pole X04 motor. Attempts to revive it proved futile so I've elected to re-motor it, plus add some missing detail (eg brake blocks!). Also, the wheels are a bit old and have the old one-piece Romfords one side for the live chassis return. Not my preference(!) so there's an element of re-wheeling to do as well. I've used the opportunity to try out the DJH motor/gear combo that Tony has highlighted on here. A bit of an investment but nothing else about this is costing me very much.

 

HOWEVER ...

 

When I stripped the chassis down to basics I had my suspicions so did my standard alignment check. Taken as 'square on' as I could make it, these are 1/8th inch steel bars, dead straight so you are seeing what you think you're seeing - none of the axles were parallel to each other - and none were parallel to the frames! Not shown, but when I checked in the other plane (ie looking at it head on), the axles weren't parallel to each other either! There's not a great deal of wear to account for so this is more or less as it was a built. A quick check of coupling rods revealed that they were different lengths (or at least the distance between the crank pin holes were different side-to-side) and there was a lot of slop in some of the holes. It's a miracle it ever ran at all - but it did, because I used to operate the layout involved and it was a reasonable enough runner. Amazing.

 

SO

 

All bearings were unsoldered from the frames, the holes in the frames opened up as required to correct the misalignments and then new bearings placed in position and - somewhat Heath Robinson, but it did the job - set up as shown. Once I was satisfied that it was all parallel and square, I soldered up the four outer bearings. A quick check with front and rear drivers reinstated and all seemed nice n square n true.

 

Some additional detail - motion brackets. None were fitted and the slide bars were getting knocked about and in danger of falling off. They won't now.

(they look a bit like weird emoticons in the left hand pic!)

 

And now into the Poppy's jig. This is of course being done in reverse: correctly spaced, mirror image coupling rods should be the starting point - but here the rods are the last to be sorted out, using the jig to check and adjust the spacing of the crankpin holes. 

 

Here's an example of a repair. In this case, the hole was way over to the left of the rod end, so I used a piercing saw to CAREFULLY open it out towards the middle of the rod and use a round file to open out the hole until I could get a piece of brass tube in. With this set up on the end of the bars in the Poppy's jig then it can be soldered and filed back to shape.

 

And finally (for now) - the acid test. After a few further, minor tweaks, all runs smoothly with no tight spots. Phew! We now have a sound base to build up from. The rest should be a doddle (ha!) (The green wheel was an otherwise compatible Romford 26mm insulated wheelset I had to hand to replace the old live ones)

 

I have to say, having tried one here for the first time, what an absolutely beautiful silky smooth motor / gear combo this is. I know some on here have views on price and cite equally good options (which I have equally used on other locos) but I speak as I find: you get what you pay for and this is an exquisite piece of miniature engineering. Given the back history of this particular loco and the sentimental attachment, it deserves nothing less.

 

Edited December 2, 2020 by LNER4479

[Jack P]

'Teaking', it's something I've wanted to try for a while. Not being a dedicated LNER fan means I'm unlikely to need to repaint multiple coaches, but I do have some 4 wheel pigeon vans to build and paint, and I was concerned they would be too starkly different from the Hornby offering.

 

So, following the Mike Trice method, I decided to give it a go;

 

 

 

 

These photos were taken immediately after applying the oils. The colour has lightened a little since then. It's not perfect yet, but I'm very happy with the results!

Edited December 3, 2020 by Jack P

[cctransuk]

9 hours ago, Jack P said:

'Teaking', it's something I've wanted to try for a while. Not being a dedicated LNER fan means I'm unlikely to need to repaint multiple coaches, but I do have some 4 wheel pigeon vans to build and paint, and I was concerned they would be too starkly different from the Hornby offering.

 

So, following the Mike Trice method, I decided to give it a go;

 

 

 

 

These photos were taken immediately after applying the oils. The colour has lightened a little since then. It's not perfect yet, but I'm very happy with the results!

 

Can you or Mike Trice give Hornby a tutorial on this method?

 

John Isherwood.

[Leander]

On 02/12/2020 at 20:20, Tony Wright said:

The Model Loco Black Five is now complete.............

 

Very nice Tony. Here's a photo of the real 45235, taken at Weston-super-Mare, no date is given and I'm not aware of who the photographer was, but it is fitted with a 4000 gallon riveted tender. Presumably it was working an excursion train off the LMR.

Edited December 4, 2020 by Leander
Typo

[Dr Gerbil-Fritters]

13 hours ago, LNER4479 said:

Whilst we're on Stanier 4-6-0s ...

 

 

(they look a bit like weird emoticons... )

 

I hereby pronounce them as 'Harry Worthicons'

 

 

My father was incapable of passing a shop window without doing this... it took a long time to do our shopping, I can tell you.

 

[Flying Pig]

7 hours ago, Dr Gerbil-Fritters said:

My father was incapable of passing a shop window without doing this...

 

What a fine man - you must be very proud.

[Dr Gerbil-Fritters]

30 minutes ago, Flying Pig said:

 

What a fine man - you must be very proud.

 

Does it make it better or worse if I tell you he was a policeman and often did it in uniform? 

 

He was also a master of the 'disconnected thumb' gag with which he would frequently torment me.  I was very young and couldn't work out how he did it.  I miss the old sod dreadfully sometimes.

Edited December 3, 2020 by Dr Gerbil-Fritters

[Tony Wright]

The latest in for review........................

 

 

 

Dapol's latest 63XX in OO. 

 

Strangely, the GWR one carries a BR front numberplate and shedplate.

 

It seems a fine mode. Any comments, please (from those 'in the know')? 

 

One thing I've discovered. Don't try and take the loco body off!

 

 

[PMP]

5 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

The latest in for review........................

 

 

It seems a fine mode. Any comments, please (from those 'in the know')? 

 

One thing I've discovered. Don't try and take the loco body off!

 

 

Slidebars as a notable visible discrepancy from the prototype,

[Tony Wright]

10 hours ago, Leander said:

Very nice Tony. Here's a photo of the real 45235, taken at Weston-super-Mare, nodate is (given and I'm not aware of who the photographer was, but it is fitted with a 4000allon riveted tender. Presumably it was working an excursion train off the LMR.

Thanks Pete,

 

It must be 1959 (if the tender is not part-welded), since she only towed a riveted tender between June and December of that year. 

 

The hot summer of 1959 as well, as she awaits departure from (what looks like) Locking Road. The loco was at Agecroft at the time - a fair distance from home.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

Edited December 3, 2020 by Tony Wright
typo error

[Tony Wright]

1 minute ago, PMP said:

Slidebars as a notable visible discrepancy from the prototype,

In what way, please?

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[Clearwater]

22 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

The latest in for review........................

 

 

 

Dapol's latest 63XX in OO. 

 

Strangely, the GWR one carries a BR front numberplate and shedplate.

 

It seems a fine mode. Any comments, please (from those 'in the know')? 

 

One thing I've discovered. Don't try and take the loco body off!

 

 

 

Hi Tony

 

I think these issues are debated in depth in Dapol mogul thread (apologies but I'm not IT competent enough to link directly).  Several commentators including Frank @Chuffer Davies, who's modelling I've admired on this thread, have had the battle in taking it apart as well.  

 

David

 

[Tony Wright]

3 minutes ago, Clearwater said:

 

Hi Tony

 

I think these issues are debated in depth in Dapol mogul thread (apologies but I'm not IT competent enough to link directly).  Several commentators including Frank @Chuffer Davies, who's modelling I've admired on this thread, have had the battle in taking it apart as well.  

 

David

 

Thanks David,

 

I'll look at it.............

 

Regards,

 

Tony.