Jump to content
 

Please use M,M&M only for topics that do not fit within other forum areas. All topics posted here await admin team approval to ensure they don't belong elsewhere.

Wright writes.....


Recommended Posts

  • RMweb Premium
10 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

Good evening Brendan,

 

Thanks for clarifying the origin of the drivers. I hope I didn't come across as critical of your workmanship (and generosity), but it seemed a salutary tale - one I've told before; based on experience. 

 

As Tony Gee has observed, wheels are under discussion again. 

 

I can only reiterate my own findings regarding driving wheels. I admit I've never tried the best friction fit wheels (Ultrascale), and your Sharmans are my first encounter with Mike's drivers. Which leaves the most-common. Granted, my experiences are with regard to those driving wheels from years ago - tyres falling off, no set concentric and shifting on their axles under (heavy) load. I recall the mighty Roy Jackson once having to 'pin' a set of friction-fit drivers underneath one of his Pacifics after its motion resembled metal spaghetti subsequent to the drivers shifting on their axles. Those who knew Roy can imagine the response!  

 

I'm sure many (as shown on here) have produced beautiful-running locos using such wheels, but, I admit, I don't have the necessary skills to achieve such success. 

 

There's also no doubt that Markits/Romford drivers are expensive, until relatively recently most of the wheels were 'generic', they're 'wider' than the alternatives and they have a great big screw head in their middles (something I'm too lazy to disguise, as was Peter Denny it would seem, at least at times). However, quartering is a doddle, they never shift on their axles, the tyres never come off and they're, to all intents and purposes for our uses, indestructible. One can dwell with iron as long as one wishes when attaching the motion, without the slightest risk of melting a wheel centre and, having either nickel silver or stainless steel tyres, they never rust. They're also true-round and concentric. 

 

I know, to some, my approach is that of a Philistine. That said, with all the Markits-shod locos on Little Bytham (and those I've built for Retford) I know I can open the taps with total confidence, sure of the fact that, as appropriate, the locos will travel at very high speed and will haul prodigious loads; with not the slightest concern for the drivers (the wheels, that is).

 

Meanwhile, many thanks for donating the Ivatt in the first place. It's now completed, and weathered (I'll take pictures tomorrow, after the paint has dried). I've had to make new pick-ups; as you surmised, the plungers aren't much good. Your generosity will ensure a 'Mucky Duck' finds a home on Retford. I'd like to think the late, great man would have liked it.

 

Kind regards,

 

Tony.  

 

Most of the Buckingham locos had their axle nuts filled in with "Plasticene", painted black.

 

I have had a number of the locos stripped down and it is the ones where I have had the wheels off that have the nuts visible.

 

So please blame me, not Peter Denny. Amongst the many jobs on the "to do" list are to cover the nuts up again, as he did all those years ago.

 

I would like to think that things have moved on a bit since the 1940s!

 

 

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

25 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

Good evening Brendan,

 

Thanks for clarifying the origin of the drivers. I hope I didn't come across as critical of your workmanship (and generosity), but it seemed a salutary tale - one I've told before; based on experience. 

 

As Tony Gee has observed, wheels are under discussion again. 

 

I can only reiterate my own findings regarding driving wheels. I admit I've never tried the best friction fit wheels (Ultrascale), and your Sharmans are my first encounter with Mike's drivers. Which leaves the most-common. Granted, my experiences are with regard to those driving wheels from years ago - tyres falling off, no set concentric and shifting on their axles under (heavy) load. I recall the mighty Roy Jackson once having to 'pin' a set of friction-fit drivers underneath one of his Pacifics after its motion resembled metal spaghetti subsequent to the drivers shifting on their axles. Those who knew Roy can imagine the response!  

 

I'm sure many (as shown on here) have produced beautiful-running locos using such wheels, but, I admit, I don't have the necessary skills to achieve such success. 

 

There's also no doubt that Markits/Romford drivers are expensive, until relatively recently most of the wheels were 'generic', they're 'wider' than the alternatives and they have a great big screw head in their middles (something I'm too lazy to disguise, as was Peter Denny it would seem, at least at times). However, quartering is a doddle, they never shift on their axles, the tyres never come off and they're, to all intents and purposes for our uses, indestructible. One can dwell with iron as long as one wishes when attaching the motion, without the slightest risk of melting a wheel centre and, having either nickel silver or stainless steel tyres, they never rust. They're also true-round and concentric. 

 

I know, to some, my approach is that of a Philistine. That said, with all the Markits-shod locos on Little Bytham (and those I've built for Retford) I know I can open the taps with total confidence, sure of the fact that, as appropriate, the locos will travel at very high speed and will haul prodigious loads; with not the slightest concern for the drivers (the wheels, that is).

 

Meanwhile, many thanks for donating the Ivatt in the first place. It's now completed, and weathered (I'll take pictures tomorrow, after the paint has dried). I've had to make new pick-ups; as you surmised, the plungers aren't much good. Your generosity will ensure a 'Mucky Duck' finds a home on Retford. I'd like to think the late, great man would have liked it.

 

Kind regards,

 

Tony.  


Hi Tony

 

For kitbuilders, wheels will always be under discussion and believe me I’ve tried them all. The only wheel that’s failed was an ‘S’ gauge 3F tank although to be fair it was the split axle that failed.

I say I’ve tried them all, not true on reflection. MickLNER (?) mentioned further up the the thread Scalelink wheels, not tried them or heard any reports good or bad. Like Markits they are self quartering and I think a lower purchase price. Surely one WW contributor has tried them?

Do Markits do a sixteen spoke 5’ 3” wheel?

Now whether there’s any money in developing a range of self quartering well engineered wheels, I suspect not in these days of super detail RTR.

If I was building a loco to run on LB or Retford it would have mechanically located wheels.

 

Best wishes

 

Brendan

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

Evening Tony

 

I've had a few Gibson wheels rust over the years, including some very recent purchases, stainless or not. Cheaper grades of so-called stainless steel quite often do discolour and/or rust. I have found that if it is necessary to do any soldering in their vicinity then I do my utmost to avoid even traces of flux getting on the tyres - even brief contact can accelerate the rusting or discolouration process.

 

I have had to stop crews on my ships splashing 'Fos', which is a weak phosphoric acid, & beloved of bosuns for cleaning paintwork, all over unpainted stainless steel cargo pipelines, for precisely the same reason.

 

Mark

Edited by MarkC
  • Like 1
  • Informative/Useful 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

As the question has been asked, it would be rude not to answer. Will the traditionalists and purists please look away while I reveal the truth?

 

Two layers of 40 thou plasticard with brass top hat bearings inserted. Quick and easy to cut / shape and seemingly very rigid so far. Convenient for electrical insulation purposes too. Cheap nylon drive gears with an intermediate gear on a shaft that is also supported in an upward local extension of the main plastic frames. Two small motors since I had them, they'd been very cheaply acquired, they run smoothly enough, and use of two small ones removed the need to hack pieces out of the interior of the body in order to avoid filling the cab with a bigger motor.

  • Like 8
  • Thanks 1
  • Interesting/Thought-provoking 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, t-b-g said:

 

Most of the Buckingham locos had their axle nuts filled in with "Plasticene", painted black.

 

I have had a number of the locos stripped down and it is the ones where I have had the wheels off that have the nuts visible.

 

So please blame me, not Peter Denny. Amongst the many jobs on the "to do" list are to cover the nuts up again, as he did all those years ago.

 

I would like to think that things have moved on a bit since the 1940s!

 

 

Good evening Tony,

 

I don't think I'd blame Peter Denny for anything. Rejoice in his achievements; yes. 

 

I don't think I've moved on a great deal in this hobby for over 40+ years (though I was alive in the 1940s, it was only for four years!). I hit upon a system which worked for me regarding building locos in the '70s - rigid chassis, Romford wheels, the biggest motor I could accommodate inside each loco and everything jig-assembled. Decent track (obviously) and robust, very simple electrics (no electronics!). I found it worked, and I haven't looked forward since! 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

  • Like 6
  • Funny 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Beechnut said:


Hi Tony

 

For kitbuilders, wheels will always be under discussion and believe me I’ve tried them all. The only wheel that’s failed was an ‘S’ gauge 3F tank although to be fair it was the split axle that failed.

I say I’ve tried them all, not true on reflection. MickLNER (?) mentioned further up the the thread Scalelink wheels, not tried them or heard any reports good or bad. Like Markits they are self quartering and I think a lower purchase price. Surely one WW contributor has tried them?

Do Markits do a sixteen spoke 5’ 3” wheel?

Now whether there’s any money in developing a range of self quartering well engineered wheels, I suspect not in these days of super detail RTR.

If I was building a loco to run on LB or Retford it would have mechanically located wheels.

 

Best wishes

 

Brendan

Good evening Brendan,

 

I don't know if Markits does a 16 spoke 5' 3" wheel. My Philistine tendencies lead me to use what's the nearest wheel, if the exact one isn't available. Oh, by the way, and my apologies for not responding initially, if those Romfords/Markits drivers you mentioned are still available; yes please. I'll make a further donation to CRUK. 

 

I built a demonstration chassis for SE Finecast using Scalelink drivers, and they worked fine, though I've never used them on a 'layout' loco. Though self-quartering, they're plastic-centred, so won't be as robust as Markits. Robust enough, though? 

 

Meanwhile, your 'Flying Pig' is now complete (apart from coaling).

 

609362800_MillholmeFlyingPig07.jpg.498caa5a749f3752c5752b5db753be9f.jpg

 

One of the advantages of dry-brushing matt enamels is how quickly they dry. I used matt black, grey and brown, mixing them as I went along, wielding the trusty sable, basing the effect on prototype photographs.

 

These locos had a tendency to become heroically filthy, and, certainly, the picture of 43037 itself I used showed it to be very heroic. 

 

Yes, there are no brakes (it won't be alone on Retford in that regard - LB has several brakeless locos as well; the older ones). 

 

Providing it stands up to Retford's 'miles', then, as a 'layout' loco, I'm sure it'll be fine. You made it very well!

 

With that in mind, many, many thanks again.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

  • Like 9
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium
30 minutes ago, gr.king said:

As the question has been asked, it would be rude not to answer. Will the traditionalists and purists please look away while I reveal the truth?

 

Two layers of 40 thou plasticard with brass top hat bearings inserted. Quick and easy to cut / shape and seemingly very rigid so far. Convenient for electrical insulation purposes too. Cheap nylon drive gears with an intermediate gear on a shaft that is also supported in an upward local extension of the main plastic frames. Two small motors since I had them, they'd been very cheaply acquired, they run smoothly enough, and use of two small ones removed the need to hack pieces out of the interior of the body in order to avoid filling the cab with a bigger motor.

Welcome to modelling in the 20th century. 

 

I am sure there is a 21st century solution, 3D printed one piece frames? 

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium
9 hours ago, Headstock said:

On painting teak.

 

A couple of principals that I wanted to incorporate, based on what I felt teak was like.

 

1. No multicolour effects. Rather a variation of tone, shade and hue of a single colour.

 

2. depth and variation of that tone and colour.

 

3. There is a real movement, flow and energy to the grain in teak, rather as if you could freeze frame a breaking wave.

 

3.graining in itself is not the most important aspect of teak, as compared to some tight grain woods, this is especially true in 4 mm scale.

 

4. I wanted a base colour that would literally shine through any top layers of paint and not be obliterated by them .

 

My solution was to produce my own paint mix , this is basically a combination of my own colour mix of paint and gloss varnish. The effect is achieved by building up a series of translucent layers over the base coat, in fine art painting, this is called a glaze. The application of the paint is vigorous and designed to keep the paint flowing until I am happy with the look. I will often cut off just as the paint begins to bite for a more grained effect, or while the paint is still wet for a softer more flowing feel. 

 

As an example of paint application, the whole of the horizontal panels are painted in one go, with the brush (flat no 10) moving back and forth along the full length of the carriage. The side of the brush is used to remove paint if I require a particular effect. This is movement is absolutely key to the effect, think of those crashing waves. Teak grain can not be tentative, if I was painting an individual panel, I will mask it off so that I can get the full range of movement of the brush across the surface without worrying about the surrounding areas. The variation in tone, colour etc is achieved by the build up of the individual glazes. Usually two or three layers will get what I want. The final layer is reserved for picking out individual panels. Excluding any lining that may be required, the final stage is the weathering. This can be applied as a glaze mix of a darker black brown, or as a simple wash, or a number of washes as required. The BG up thread is yet to receive its weathering layer or layers.

 

Fist layer on the vertical panels.

 

724938456_TEAK1.jpg.34ec6c7d89905faac064ba2f27c2cd7b.jpg

 

First layer on the Horizontal panels.

 

882771019_Teak2.jpg.7ed25de6d2b1faa7775084765290b7e7.jpg

 

Second layer and third, starting to pick out panels.

 

308050713_TEAK3.jpg.7e76bbf7035969040b3acffd1183ba9f.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thank you very much for posting this Andrew, absolutely fascinating to see the three stages like that. Also your thoughts about the flow and movement. And the point about using a variation of tone and hue of a single colour: I think I have probably gone a bit too far down the 'different colours' road and might do better this way. The effect you describe of lower layers shining through translucent layers nearer the surface is something I'd begun to observe in photos of the real thing, but I haven't yet been able to reproduce it very well.

The mixing of paint and varnish is a very interesting technique that I hadn't come across and shall definitely try: I think Tony has already asked this, but may I also ask what type of varnish you mix with the enamel paint? Do the different solvent bases of the paint and the varnish mix well and dry well together?

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

58 minutes ago, gr.king said:

As the question has been asked, it would be rude not to answer. Will the traditionalists and purists please look away while I reveal the truth?

 

Two layers of 40 thou plasticard with brass top hat bearings inserted. Quick and easy to cut / shape and seemingly very rigid so far. Convenient for electrical insulation purposes too. Cheap nylon drive gears with an intermediate gear on a shaft that is also supported in an upward local extension of the main plastic frames. Two small motors since I had them, they'd been very cheaply acquired, they run smoothly enough, and use of two small ones removed the need to hack pieces out of the interior of the body in order to avoid filling the cab with a bigger motor.

I’ve just been for a lie down after reading this.  I came over all unnecessary....  

You must be a fantastic modeller because I couldn’t get what you’ve described work no matter  what.
 

 Well done but please don’t do it again , or if you do please don’t tell me.

Frank

  • Funny 9
  • Friendly/supportive 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium
1 hour ago, Chuffer Davies said:

I’ve just been for a lie down after reading this.  I came over all unnecessary....  

You must be a fantastic modeller because I couldn’t get what you’ve described work no matter  what.
 

 Well done but please don’t do it again , or if you do please don’t tell me.

Frank

 

You don't want any details of the wooden chassis on one of the Buckingham locos then?

 

Split frame, 1950s style!

 

OK, it has warped a bit but it still goes, just with a bit of a wobble!

  • Like 7
  • Interesting/Thought-provoking 1
  • Round of applause 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Clive Mortimore said:

Welcome to modelling in the 20th century. 

 

I am sure there is a 21st century solution, 3D printed one piece frames? 

 

Well it isn't quite the first time I've tried plastic frames. I used plastic to create the master for a single-piece cast resin chassis for a series of J6 models. The resin is nothing but another kind of plastic, and a few years on the J6 chassis units still seem to be satisfactory.

Perhaps in fifty years, anybody who is still around will know whether plastic of one kind or another really is a good idea, long term, for a chassis.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium
5 minutes ago, gr.king said:

 

Well it isn't quite the first time I've tried plastic frames. I used plastic to create the master for a single-piece cast resin chassis for a series of J6 models. The resin is nothing but another kind of plastic, and a few years on the J6 chassis units still seem to be satisfactory.

Perhaps in fifty years, anybody who is still around will know whether plastic of one kind or another really is a good idea, long term, for a chassis.

Hi Graeme

 

When I built my first plastic card diesel loco body everyone said it with go brittle and fall apart, that was in 1982. Despite being used several times in test such as jumping off the stock table, pretending it was a airplane flying off the end of aircraft carrier as it took off form the layout and how high will it bounce. It is still in one piece. I think it will be still in one piece when I am no longer around.

  • Like 9
Link to post
Share on other sites

12 hours ago, Headstock said:

On painting teak.

 

A couple of principals that I wanted to incorporate, based on what I felt teak was like.

 

1. No multicolour effects. Rather a variation of tone, shade and hue of a single colour.

 

2. depth and variation of that tone and colour.

 

3. There is a real movement, flow and energy to the grain in teak, rather as if you could freeze frame a breaking wave.

 

3.graining in itself is not the most important aspect of teak, as compared to some tight grain woods, this is especially true in 4 mm scale.

 

4. I wanted a base colour that would literally shine through any top layers of paint and not be obliterated by them .

 

My solution was to produce my own paint mix , this is basically a combination of my own colour mix of paint and gloss varnish. The effect is achieved by building up a series of translucent layers over the base coat, in fine art painting, this is called a glaze. The application of the paint is vigorous and designed to keep the paint flowing until I am happy with the look. I will often cut off just as the paint begins to bite for a more grained effect, or while the paint is still wet for a softer more flowing feel. 

 

As an example of paint application, the whole of the horizontal panels are painted in one go, with the brush (flat no 10) moving back and forth along the full length of the carriage. The side of the brush is used to remove paint if I require a particular effect. This is movement is absolutely key to the effect, think of those crashing waves. Teak grain can not be tentative, if I was painting an individual panel, I will mask it off so that I can get the full range of movement of the brush across the surface without worrying about the surrounding areas. The variation in tone, colour etc is achieved by the build up of the individual glazes. Usually two or three layers will get what I want. The final layer is reserved for picking out individual panels. Excluding any lining that may be required, the final stage is the weathering. This can be applied as a glaze mix of a darker black brown, or as a simple wash, or a number of washes as required. The BG up thread is yet to receive its weathering layer or layers.

 

Fist layer on the vertical panels.

 

724938456_TEAK1.jpg.34ec6c7d89905faac064ba2f27c2cd7b.jpg

 

First layer on the Horizontal panels.

 

882771019_Teak2.jpg.7ed25de6d2b1faa7775084765290b7e7.jpg

 

Second layer and third, starting to pick out panels.

 

308050713_TEAK3.jpg.7e76bbf7035969040b3acffd1183ba9f.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The perfect example of why Wright Writes is up to 2143 pages.  A superb rendition of one of the most difficult finishes to achieve.  Please tell us about the underframe.

  • Agree 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

36 minutes ago, Woodcock29 said:

So what have I built in 2020. For the first time ever I've actually tackled virtually all aspects of railway modeling within a 12 month period.

 

 At the beginning of the year I built a Nucast D2 and continued my learning process on lining with bow pen and Bob Moore pen.

519920403_IMG_9840pss.jpg.fb30c149669d6e54cc446ed073fb0315.jpg

 

Followed by a an ex GN Howlden triplet from D&S 6 wheelers

 

2068316318_IMG_0207pss.jpg.e84102940a708cf204ffa086dd9f7c5e.jpg

 

Then two of Bill Bedford's Mousa resin Howlden 6 wheelers

 

724059172_IMG_0306ps.jpg.86962557cfcd4bba9dfb4e021fd9aa2d.jpg

 

 

24662130_IMG_0311ps.jpg.c77669a525f880b899519e10bd888c68.jpg

Then two of Bill's resin GN wagons

76351734_IMG_0290ps.jpg.c5b9de918f48ca82ece41711c0939e53.jpg

 

Then I built/upgraded a range of wagons to run on my mate Gavin's layout Spirsby - I won't give all the details but here's a selection.  

2014823864_IMG_0264ps.jpg.f53c85ee0b8423177df49b3a50a595e7.jpg

929234140_IMG_0268ps.jpg.98d48be576ed5f561579fc10880a84a7.jpg

 

 

 

2111458836_IMG_0283ps.jpg.18bbc28807e974b056f387e9abd278fd.jpg250194520_IMG_0302ps.jpg.3419b1d0d7aa5881edf78271f4165281.jpg379250754_IMG_0259ps.jpg.493fc96ac8b51a0dd0403dc50f88c09b.jpg

Then I reworked a Hornby Q6 into a version with a Dia 50 boiler to suit my pre-war period.

1850077099_IMG_0286ps.jpg.b671a458508aeaa1a327482ab43b3d5a.jpg

Then it was time to learn how to build MSE GN somersault signals for Spirsby plus a few for my layout.  The triple bracket and 3 single posts are installed on Spirsby but we still need to fit the mechanical linkages to operate them. I have one operational single home signal on my layout now and two brackets under construction - one with wooden post and dolls. 

1342987147_DSC_3587pss.jpg.0b45a78300ca692e77c6e17f7554b6ad.jpg

111885447_DSC_3584pss.jpg.04143d83d3420a05df2c4e795643167d.jpg

Just this last weekend I've finally finished the signal box for Spirsby - my first scratchbuilt building. From a variety of materials - Volmer N Gauge English bond brook card sheet (yes N Gauge as its the correct size for 4mm scale bricks), Evergreen strip, Peco roof slates, stairs from the scrap box, Wills and Springside interior fittings. This is viewed temporarily sitting on my layout, behind which can be seen some recent scenic additions (can you believe that St Enodoc!). The roof section is yet to be finally glued onto the signal box, hence the slight visible gap above the windows. Its based on the ex GN box at Authorpe on the East Lincolnshire line.

684455392_IMG_0486pss.jpg.0f40b5c54dffeffaa709ad9e5f1aa3f7.jpgIn the previous month I laid some additional track on my layout to change the arrangements for access to the gas works (still to be built) and in the process built  a simple new panel for those sidings that fits under a baseboard edge to stay clear of an operating area.

2146916269_20201213_195439pss.jpg.1b4b915710c06cc07301b0791015ea70.jpg

I've also repaired a number of locos for friends - mostly split gears!

Regards to Tony and all contributors for Christmas and a better 2021.

Andrew

How did you do the Q6 conversion please ?

Link to post
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, gr.king said:

 

Well it isn't quite the first time I've tried plastic frames. I used plastic to create the master for a single-piece cast resin chassis for a series of J6 models. The resin is nothing but another kind of plastic, and a few years on the J6 chassis units still seem to be satisfactory.

Perhaps in fifty years, anybody who is still around will know whether plastic of one kind or another really is a good idea, long term, for a chassis.

 

Somewhere I still have a motorising kit for the Kitmaster model of the L & Y Pug.  From memory, there were metal bearing shells like eyelets to fit to the plastic chassis and metal tyres to fit over the wheels.  A worm/gear set set was included to fit a Romford 7 pole Terrier motor but I can't remember what one did about the axles. 

 

One reason it never got finished was because I tried to adapt it to 00-9 but I think the thickness of the frames and gearwheel prevented this!

  • Like 2
  • Informative/Useful 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

12 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

Good evening Brendan,

 

I don't know if Markits does a 16 spoke 5' 3" wheel. My Philistine tendencies lead me to use what's the nearest wheel, if the exact one isn't available. Oh, by the way, and my apologies for not responding initially, if those Romfords/Markits drivers you mentioned are still available; yes please. I'll make a further donation to CRUK. 

 

I built a demonstration chassis for SE Finecast using Scalelink drivers, and they worked fine, though I've never used them on a 'layout' loco. Though self-quartering, they're plastic-centred, so won't be as robust as Markits. Robust enough, though? 

 

Meanwhile, your 'Flying Pig' is now complete (apart from coaling).

 

609362800_MillholmeFlyingPig07.jpg.498caa5a749f3752c5752b5db753be9f.jpg

 

One of the advantages of dry-brushing matt enamels is how quickly they dry. I used matt black, grey and brown, mixing them as I went along, wielding the trusty sable, basing the effect on prototype photographs.

 

These locos had a tendency to become heroically filthy, and, certainly, the picture of 43037 itself I used showed it to be very heroic. 

 

Yes, there are no brakes (it won't be alone on Retford in that regard - LB has several brakeless locos as well; the older ones). 

 

Providing it stands up to Retford's 'miles', then, as a 'layout' loco, I'm sure it'll be fine. You made it very well!

 

With that in mind, many, many thanks again.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 


Morning Tony

 

That looks just right, I wonder if it knows what it’s in for, on Retford!

I’ll get the Romford wheelsets over to you, if it’s Royal Mail it will be in the new year. If I can get my sister to drop them off in LB I will.

 

Regards

 

Brendan

Edited by Beechnut
Typo
Link to post
Share on other sites

12 hours ago, Clive Mortimore said:

Welcome to modelling in the 20th century. 

 

I am sure there is a 21st century solution, 3D printed one piece frames? 

Hello Clive,

 

Reverting to this, but considering the second point, I'm fairly sure that somebody, somewhere, just a few years ago had a go at producing a one piece, detailed set of loco frames as a 3D print. I don't know whether they were meant for use, or just as an illustration of the possibility. It may all depend on the printing technique that is used, I know there are several and I don't understand them all, but having seen other 3D printed items that are not exactly the shape they were meant to be because they have shrunk / warped / twisted in places I'm currently a little wary of the idea of 3D printed frames. That is not to say that I'll have a lasting distrust of the idea. That would be akin to being one of those "old guard" who regards anything made in plastic as not being a "proper", serious, accurate, robust, durable model.

 

Also, I do clearly remember feeling vindicated about thirty years ago, around the time I'd built an O4 / ROD body in plastic, when I read in one of R.D.A. Johnston's writings that he had built a tank engine body in plasticard some years previously and had then quite deliberately left it out in the summer heat and winter cold of the greenhouse, despite which it was still straight and true. It's only in more recent years that I've felt adventurous and competent enough to try plastic chassis frames too though.

 

And didn't Slaters or Ratio once (1980-ish?) market a couple of kits for 4mm scale Midland Railway Johnson locos with plastic frames plus metal working parts? Whether they were any good, and/or whether the loco modellers of the time, used only to metal handling methods and wedded to the idea that "metal is essential", knew how to make proper use of the kits is another set of questions.

  • Like 4
  • Informative/Useful 1
  • Interesting/Thought-provoking 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium
1 hour ago, Woodcock29 said:

So what have I built in 2020. For the first time ever I've actually tackled virtually all aspects of railway modeling within a 12 month period.

 

 At the beginning of the year I built a Nucast D2 and continued my learning process on lining with bow pen and Bob Moore pen.

519920403_IMG_9840pss.jpg.fb30c149669d6e54cc446ed073fb0315.jpg

 

Followed by a an ex GN Howlden triplet from D&S 6 wheelers

 

2068316318_IMG_0207pss.jpg.e84102940a708cf204ffa086dd9f7c5e.jpg

 

Then two of Bill Bedford's Mousa resin Howlden 6 wheelers

 

724059172_IMG_0306ps.jpg.86962557cfcd4bba9dfb4e021fd9aa2d.jpg

 

 

24662130_IMG_0311ps.jpg.c77669a525f880b899519e10bd888c68.jpg

Then two of Bill's resin GN wagons

76351734_IMG_0290ps.jpg.c5b9de918f48ca82ece41711c0939e53.jpg

 

Then I built/upgraded a range of wagons to run on my mate Gavin's layout Spirsby - I won't give all the details but here's a selection.  

2014823864_IMG_0264ps.jpg.f53c85ee0b8423177df49b3a50a595e7.jpg

929234140_IMG_0268ps.jpg.98d48be576ed5f561579fc10880a84a7.jpg

 

 

 

2111458836_IMG_0283ps.jpg.18bbc28807e974b056f387e9abd278fd.jpg250194520_IMG_0302ps.jpg.3419b1d0d7aa5881edf78271f4165281.jpg379250754_IMG_0259ps.jpg.493fc96ac8b51a0dd0403dc50f88c09b.jpg

Then I reworked a Hornby Q6 into a version with a Dia 50 boiler to suit my pre-war period.

1850077099_IMG_0286ps.jpg.b671a458508aeaa1a327482ab43b3d5a.jpg

Then it was time to learn how to build MSE GN somersault signals for Spirsby plus a few for my layout.  The triple bracket and 3 single posts are installed on Spirsby but we still need to fit the mechanical linkages to operate them. I have one operational single home signal on my layout now and two brackets under construction - one with wooden post and dolls. 

1342987147_DSC_3587pss.jpg.0b45a78300ca692e77c6e17f7554b6ad.jpg

111885447_DSC_3584pss.jpg.04143d83d3420a05df2c4e795643167d.jpg

Just this last weekend I've finally finished the signal box for Spirsby - my first scratchbuilt building. From a variety of materials - Volmer N Gauge English bond brook card sheet (yes N Gauge as its the correct size for 4mm scale bricks), Evergreen strip, Peco roof slates, stairs from the scrap box, Wills and Springside interior fittings. This is viewed temporarily sitting on my layout, behind which can be seen some recent scenic additions (can you believe that St Enodoc!). The roof section is yet to be finally glued onto the signal box, hence the slight visible gap above the windows. Its based on the ex GN box at Authorpe on the East Lincolnshire line.

684455392_IMG_0486pss.jpg.0f40b5c54dffeffaa709ad9e5f1aa3f7.jpgIn the previous month I laid some additional track on my layout to change the arrangements for access to the gas works (still to be built) and in the process built  a simple new panel for those sidings that fits under a baseboard edge to stay clear of an operating area.

2146916269_20201213_195439pss.jpg.1b4b915710c06cc07301b0791015ea70.jpg

I've also repaired a number of locos for friends - mostly split gears!

Regards to Tony and all contributors for Christmas and a better 2021.

Andrew

 

What a lovely set of models and what I like most about it is the variety. I particularly like the signals as I build a lot of those and really appreciate the work that goes into making them as neatly as that.

 

 

  • Agree 4
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...