Wright writes.....

[Tony Wright]

Derek has kindly emailed some further information...........

 

I'm sure he won't mind the 'story' being told, so to speak.

 

' What is really strange is that this is one of the very rare times I have actually seen one of the locos I have built in a layout setting! So I am delighted to see the humble loco in such a prestigious setting!!

I was a “behind the scenes builder” for Norman Wisenden until I got a job which involved a lot of international travel to places you wouldn’t go on holiday to…………………… I used to bult perhaps half a dozen locos per year. So even if they were commission builds or something built for shop stock, they were simply purchased by the customer and off they went and the only (rarely!) time I ever saw them again was if there was a problem with them. This is apart from one occasion when I saw one of my locos in a competition at a prestigious exhibition and it is claimed to have been built by the person who entered it into the competition – it didn’t win by the way! I never signed them even though Norman encouraged me to do so.

After the job change in 2003, all my available time evaporated and I stopped building for Norman as it simply didn’t work as I could not commit to times etc. This nearly coincided with Norman selling the business and of course he passed away shortly afterwards. I did work for a handful of folks who were people that didn’t mind having to wait for their loco to be completed but most of them are not local and I simply post the locos on. I suspect that they never think that I would actually want to see them working!!  It is only recently that I have returned to building in any sort of serious manner now for myself (with some dwindling exceptions…………)'

 

Thanks again, Derek. 

 

P.S. When this Covid thing is over, an invitation to see your little loco working on Little Bytham is given unconditionally. Even if it's months and months, don't worry - I've decided to keep it myself; it's so pretty, and I did see J52s at Doncaster and Retford. So, on a running-in turn for service at New England? I'll be making a donation of £150.00 to CRUK (I hope that's enough). 

 

[t-b-g]

9 minutes ago, Clive Mortimore said:

I find this discussion regarding the price of RTR, verses/compared to kits quite interesting but at the same time not relevant to my modelling. 

 

Let me explain, There are many good RTR models available today, and should I want on and my budget says yes as well then that rush of excitement as I open the box happens. Then I normally find the errors, do I correct them, depends how bad. 

 

If only a kit is available and again if my budget can meet he cost then again yes. I do find many kits difficult to make as bits don't fit, I have a Isinglass coach kit and a Mailcoach kit both deciding which window they will be launched through. 

 

I much prefer making my own, be it conversions or scratch built. I have been filing the roofs into shape for my dia 214 BS-TC twin. I know it won't be to the same high standard as Andrew's coach but I am having fun doing so, made even better by listening to the Screaming Females, Melisa can really shred a guitar. 

 

Surely the most important thing about model making is enjoying yourself while doing so. 

 

 

 

Couldn't agree more Clive. Especially your last sentence. When it comes down to basics, as long as we get some sense of pleasure and satisfaction from what we do, that is the only thing that matters.

 

If others get their enjoyment in other ways, that is not a problem for anybody.

 

The only problems arise when some people start telling others what they should be doing.

 

I spent the afternoon making downpipes for my new station building and listening to John Prine. Not quite guitar shredding but a lovely way to spend an afternoon!  

[rowanj]

1 hour ago, Paul Cram said:

I have to disagree with you on the cost of a kit built V2. The Mike Trice version comes in under £200 inccluding a Dave Bradwell tender in P4. P4 models generally are more expansive then RTR but not in this case.

Interesting, Paul, as I suppose I hadn't thought of Mike's V2 as a kit in the classic sense. I have one, and it's certainly a fine body, and given that I stuck it on an old Bachmann chassis, and used a spare Bachmann tender, it certainly came in at well under £200. Is Mike still producing them?

 

But to build one for under £200 in the "normal" way? I think the body was £40 (can't quite recall), the Bradwell tender is £65 or so, Comet V2 frames £45, High level motor/gearbox £40 (double that for a DJH) , driving wheels £15 per axle, and bogie/tender (say £5per axle) £30. Then there are any sundries, such as sprung buffers, handrail knobs, smokebox dart. So getting under £200 means you have done really well, even if, like we all do, you cheat by not counting things already in the spares box, or paint and lining already in stock.

 

It would be nice to think that resin kit production would keep costs down, but I haven't seen much evidence of that so far. Mike's V2 was exceptionally reasonable.

[Paul Cram]

Gibson Driving wheels are £6.20 per axle. Bogie and tender wheels £3.10. Portescap motor picked up for £35.00. The Bradwell tender was £55. My comet frames were £32 and I have a Brachline set around the same price.

Edited December 19, 2020 by Paul Cram

[St Enodoc]

10 hours ago, t-b-g said:

So the purchase has freed up many hours of time and will allow me to progress the layout work more quickly.

 

I really can't see the point in building a kit for something when there is a perfectly good RTR one available

That is exactly my philosophy too, Tony.

[CF MRC]

One of the advantages of 2mm scale is that certain things are unlikely to become commercially available, so scratch building makes sense. 
But then...

it’s amazing what can be done with 3D printing these days. 
 

Tim

[Chas Levin]

16 hours ago, Headstock said:

A number of rather necessary but not particularly photogenic processes have been completed on the dia. 45 BG, a proper update will follow. In the meantime, a break through in research and the delivery of essential parts from suppliers has allowed for significant movement on the dia. 210 twin. Stepboards and other details have been scratch built or purchased and fitted and the new roofs are well underway.

 

The vac pie is now leaning to the right on the brake end. The twins seem to be equally divided between left and right leaning uprights, this determines the side on which the pipe runs down the solebar. It is tempting to speculate, that there may be purpose in left and right hand leaning pipes on two twins in a set. This would position the vac pipe down the same side of a set even though one twin is facing north and the other south.

 

 

 

The tell tales and switching equipment is now complete on the end of the compo.

 

 

I also confirmed the location of the regulator box on the brake. Thanks to mike Trice who supplied details of the actual box, this is my mini scratch build with little knob.

 

 

 

As a change of pace, the dia 113 BG is currently progressing through the paint shop.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Beautiful work everywhere Andrew, and as usual your teak (on the 113BG) has me staring hard at the photo to assure myself it isn't real wood!

[MikeTrice]

2 hours ago, Chas Levin said:

Beautiful work everywhere Andrew, and as usual your teak (on the 113BG) has me staring hard at the photo to assure myself it isn't real wood!

One day, hopefully, he will tell us how he does it.

[ecgtheow]

13 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

Derek has kindly emailed some further information...........

 

I'm sure he won't mind the 'story' being told, so to speak.

 

' What is really strange is that this is one of the very rare times I have actually seen one of the locos I have built in a layout setting! So I am delighted to see the humble loco in such a prestigious setting!!

I was a “behind the scenes builder” for Norman Wisenden until I got a job which involved a lot of international travel to places you wouldn’t go on holiday to…………………… I used to bult perhaps half a dozen locos per year. So even if they were commission builds or something built for shop stock, they were simply purchased by the customer and off they went and the only (rarely!) time I ever saw them again was if there was a problem with them. This is apart from one occasion when I saw one of my locos in a competition at a prestigious exhibition and it is claimed to have been built by the person who entered it into the competition – it didn’t win by the way! I never signed them even though Norman encouraged me to do so.

After the job change in 2003, all my available time evaporated and I stopped building for Norman as it simply didn’t work as I could not commit to times etc. This nearly coincided with Norman selling the business and of course he passed away shortly afterwards. I did work for a handful of folks who were people that didn’t mind having to wait for their loco to be completed but most of them are not local and I simply post the locos on. I suspect that they never think that I would actually want to see them working!!  It is only recently that I have returned to building in any sort of serious manner now for myself (with some dwindling exceptions…………)'

 

Thanks again, Derek. 

 

P.S. When this Covid thing is over, an invitation to see your little loco working on Little Bytham is given unconditionally. Even if it's months and months, don't worry - I've decided to keep it myself; it's so pretty, and I did see J52s at Doncaster and Retford. So, on a running-in turn for service at New England? I'll be making a donation of £150.00 to CRUK (I hope that's enough). 

 

 

I may be one of the lucky ones for whom Derek Johnson built 3 M&GNR locos & one GNR loco in pre-grouping liveries  about 20-25 years ago, when I ordered them from Norman Wisenden. Please ask Derek & if he did build them let him know that they are still going strong!

 

William

 

[t-b-g]

19 hours ago, Headstock said:

A number of rather necessary but not particularly photogenic processes have been completed on the dia. 45 BG, a proper update will follow. In the meantime, a break through in research and the delivery of essential parts from suppliers has allowed for significant movement on the dia. 210 twin. Stepboards and other details have been scratch built or purchased and fitted and the new roofs are well underway.

 

The vac pie is now leaning to the right on the brake end. The twins seem to be equally divided between left and right leaning uprights, this determines the side on which the pipe runs down the solebar. It is tempting to speculate, that there may be purpose in left and right hand leaning pipes on two twins in a set. This would position the vac pipe down the same side of a set even though one twin is facing north and the other south.

 

 

 

The tell tales and switching equipment is now complete on the end of the compo.

 

 

I also confirmed the location of the regulator box on the brake. Thanks to mike Trice who supplied details of the actual box, this is my mini scratch build with little knob.

 

 

 

As a change of pace, the dia 113 BG is currently progressing through the paint shop.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

That is as good as any rendition of a teak finish that I have seen. It is a very difficult livery to get looking just right and many people have different ways of trying to get there but to me, that just looks so right.

 

I have seen other superb examples, including some by Dave Studley, Mike Trice and also by Vernon Harrod, who has been producing some super teak finishes that have really only been seen by a few friends.

 

I will have some to do soon, so I am keen to soak up the different techniques to decide which may suit my working methods and materials best. 

 

If you have written up your methods and I have missed them, could you please point us at where it is, or perhaps give us a brief description?

Edited December 20, 2020 by t-b-g
To add content

[Tony Wright]

Most of the donated EM Gauge Ivatt 4MT has now been painted.

 

 

I've ordered the distinctive balance weights from Markits.

 

It's now part-weathered.

 

One area of 'concern' relates to the Sharman driving wheels (or could they be Gibson?). They're friction-fit, and all seemed well until I attempted to clean the treads. My normal method is to attach wires to the motor terminals, invert the mech', apply power and then clean the treads with a fibreglass propelling pencil - the loco rotating its own wheels. Oh, dear, the thing jammed up! One of the wheels had shifted on its axle. I located which one (only one?) and twisted it back, applying a bead of superglue (in hope). 

 

This is one of the reasons why I won't use friction-fit drivers. In my experience, not only are they a fag to quarter, usually not concentric and they have a tendency to move on their axles under power. OK, perhaps, if they're expected to just shuffle up and down on light loads at slow speed, but this loco is destined for Retford - a 'loco-killer'. 

 

The acid test will be.......................................

 

I sense a replacement set of Markits drivers being ordered in the New Year.

[rowanj]

12 hours ago, Paul Cram said:

Gibson Driving wheels are £6.20 per axle. Bogie and tender wheels £3.10. Portescap motor picked up for £35.00. The Bradwell tender was £55. My comet frames were £32 and I have a Brachline set around the same price.

I wish I could get away with Gibson wheels, Paul. As you say, they are less than half the price of Markits.

My latest kit-build also confirms that, at times, you can build a loco cheaper than the RTR alternative. I got this K3 from EBay as an unbuilt SEF kit with chassis and a full set of Markits wheels, plus a Mashima and mount for £80. The motor and gearing had seized so was replaced from the spares I had. It was on its' first run on the layout this morning, so I thought I'd post a "show your work" photo here.

[Paul Cram]

1 minute ago, rowanj said:

I wish I could get away with Gibson wheels, Paul. As you say, they are less than half the price of Markits.

My latest kit-build also confirms that, at times, you can build a loco cheaper than the RTR alternative. I got this K3 from EBay as an unbuilt SEF kit with chassis and a full set of Markits wheels, plus a Mashima and mount for £80. The motor and gearing had seized so was replaced from the spares I had. It was on its' first run on the layout this morning, so I thought I'd post a "show your work" photo here.

Working in P4 there are few alternatives all of which are friction fit. I try to fit then only once and at the most twice using a GW models wheel press.

[micklner]

What is the current opinion on the Scalelink wheels ??. They seem to have been forgotten, as they rarely get mentioned anymore.

 

https://www.scalelink.co.uk/acatalog/Locomotive_Driving_Wheels_.html#aSW1816DX

[t-b-g]

Is it somehow appropriate that a discussion about wheels seems to be coming around again?

 

 

Edited December 20, 2020 by t-b-g
punctuation

[Headstock]

On painting teak.

 

A couple of principals that I wanted to incorporate, based on what I felt teak was like.

 

1. No multicolour effects. Rather a variation of tone, shade and hue of a single colour.

 

2. depth and variation of that tone and colour.

 

3. There is a real movement, flow and energy to the grain in teak, rather as if you could freeze frame a breaking wave.

 

3.graining in itself is not the most important aspect of teak, as compared to some tight grain woods, this is especially true in 4 mm scale.

 

4. I wanted a base colour that would literally shine through any top layers of paint and not be obliterated by them .

 

My solution was to produce my own paint mix , this is basically a combination of my own colour mix of paint and gloss varnish. The effect is achieved by building up a series of translucent layers over the base coat, in fine art painting, this is called a glaze. The application of the paint is vigorous and designed to keep the paint flowing until I am happy with the look. I will often cut off just as the paint begins to bite for a more grained effect, or while the paint is still wet for a softer more flowing feel. 

 

As an example of paint application, the whole of the horizontal panels are painted in one go, with the brush (flat no 10) moving back and forth along the full length of the carriage. The side of the brush is used to remove paint if I require a particular effect. This is movement is absolutely key to the effect, think of those crashing waves. Teak grain can not be tentative, if I was painting an individual panel, I will mask it off so that I can get the full range of movement of the brush across the surface without worrying about the surrounding areas. The variation in tone, colour etc is achieved by the build up of the individual glazes. Usually two or three layers will get what I want. The final layer is reserved for picking out individual panels. Excluding any lining that may be required, the final stage is the weathering. This can be applied as a glaze mix of a darker black brown, or as a simple wash, or a number of washes as required. The BG up thread is yet to receive its weathering layer or layers.

 

Fist layer on the vertical panels.

 

 

First layer on the Horizontal panels.

 

 

Second layer and third, starting to pick out panels.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited December 20, 2020 by Headstock
add cap to sentence.

[Beechnut]

38 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

Most of the donated EM Gauge Ivatt 4MT has now been painted.

 

 

I've ordered the distinctive balance weights from Markits.

 

It's now part-weathered.

 

One area of 'concern' relates to the Sharman driving wheels (or could they be Gibson?). They're friction-fit, and all seemed well until I attempted to clean the treads. My normal method is to attach wires to the motor terminals, invert the mech', apply power and then clean the treads with a fibreglass propelling pencil - the loco rotating its own wheels. Oh, dear, the thing jammed up! One of the wheels had shifted on its axle. I located which one (only one?) and twisted it back, applying a bead of superglue (in hope). 

 

This is one of the reasons why I won't use friction-fit drivers. In my experience, not only are they a fag to quarter, usually not concentric and they have a tendency to move on their axles under power. OK, perhaps, if they're expected to just shuffle up and down on light loads at slow speed, but this loco is destined for Retford - a 'loco-killer'. 

 

The acid test will be.......................................

 

I sense a replacement set of Markits drivers being ordered in the New Year.

Morning Tony

 

Looking good and I do understand your misgivings re the friction fit wheels, they’re  Sharman by the way which were reckoned to be a cut above Gibson, by me anyway.

Being an ‘S’ modeller these days friction fit wheels, Markits can be used if you’re not too worried about appearance, are the norm. ‘S’ wheels are cast brass which can be machined to take steel tyres. I can machine to press fit sizes and then use the tailstock on the lathe to force them on. Some sort of quartering fixture also has to made up. Even using a press fit Loctite is applied just to be on the safe side. The Loctite doesn’t interfere with the split frame pickup.

Using Markits wheels for split pickup is ok but a fixture is needed to retain the quartering. Mick Nicholson wrote an article on such a device in the short lived Finescale Railway Modelling Review. It was for 4mm but applies to any scale where Markits wheels can be used with appropriate changes to dimensions.

I used this method for a BR class 02 shutter build but I’ve never been happy with it, too many spokes and oversize on the diameter, it’ll get it rebuilt with the correct wheels, one day.

I do have six surplus 21mm Romford wheels but they have nineteen spokes, three insulated. You’re welcome to them and EM axles if you want them.

 

Keep up the good work 

 

Brendan

 

[Barry O]

Having been shown how to quarter Alan Gibson wheels by Mike Edge I seem to be OK with them.  The Markits wheels are easier but are a bit "wider" and can cause problems getting clearance in some valve gear set ups..

 

The last loco which had a problem with moving wheels was a Hornby A4 being used on Grantham. @Tony Wright sorted it and it is fine..

 

 

Silver link

 

 

and its dirty as no steam loco would be clean after travelling a fair way.. as shown in a photograph of this loco shown to me by @LNER4479

 

Baz

[t-b-g]

3 hours ago, Headstock said:

On painting teak.

 

A couple of principals that I wanted to incorporate, based on what I felt teak was like.

 

1. No multicolour effects. Rather a variation of tone, shade and hue of a single colour.

 

2. depth and variation of that tone and colour.

 

3. There is a real movement, flow and energy to the grain in teak, rather as if you could freeze frame a breaking wave.

 

3.graining in itself is not the most important aspect of teak, as compared to some tight grain woods, this is especially true in 4 mm scale.

 

4. I wanted a base colour that would literally shine through any top layers of paint and not be obliterated by them .

 

My solution was to produce my own paint mix , this is basically a combination of my own colour mix of paint and gloss varnish. The effect is achieved by building up a series of translucent layers over the base coat, in fine art painting, this is called a glaze. The application of the paint is vigorous and designed to keep the paint flowing until I am happy with the look. I will often cut off just as the paint begins to bite for a more grained effect, or while the paint is still wet for a softer more flowing feel. 

 

As an example of paint application, the whole of the horizontal panels are painted in one go, with the brush (flat no 10) moving back and forth along the full length of the carriage. The side of the brush is used to remove paint if I require a particular effect. This is movement is absolutely key to the effect, think of those crashing waves. Teak grain can not be tentative, if I was painting an individual panel, I will mask it off so that I can get the full range of movement of the brush across the surface without worrying about the surrounding areas. The variation in tone, colour etc is achieved by the build up of the individual glazes. Usually two or three layers will get what I want. The final layer is reserved for picking out individual panels. Excluding any lining that may be required, the final stage is the weathering. this can be applied as a glaze mix of a darker black brown mix or as a simple wash, or a number of washes as required. The BG up thread is yet to receive its weathering layer.

 

Fist layer on the vertical panels.

 

 

First layer on the Horizontal panels.

 

 

Second layer and third, starting to pick out panels.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The technique of mixing paint and varnish is one that I have seen used before, to very good effect, on an LNER green B1. I asked what colour had been used and was told "Precision Paints Apple Green". When I said that I had tried to use that before and not been happy, he said "I bet you didn't mix yours 50/50 with gloss varnish".

 

It seems to give the paint a "glow" that exists on the real thing but is very difficult to get right on a model.

 

I will have to give it a try and it may well be how I paint my 4mm "Valour" when I can get to visit my friend with a spray booth again.

 

What paints do you use? Are they acrylics, or enamels?

 

Thanks for the tips.

 

Tony

[Headstock]

26 minutes ago, t-b-g said:

 

The technique of mixing paint and varnish is one that I have seen used before, to very good effect, on an LNER green B1. I asked what colour had been used and was told "Precision Paints Apple Green". When I said that I had tried to use that before and not been happy, he said "I bet you didn't mix yours 50/50 with gloss varnish".

 

It seems to give the paint a "glow" that exists on the real thing but is very difficult to get right on a model.

 

I will have to give it a try and it may well be how I paint my 4mm "Valour" when I can get to visit my friend with a spray booth again.

 

What paints do you use? Are they acrylics, or enamels?

 

Thanks for the tips.

 

Tony

 

Good afternoon Tony,

 

I have used exactly the same technique on quite a lot of colours, including LNER green and BR crimson. It's hard too define what it is but it gives the finish and extra depth and lustre, as you say a glow, that you don't get from gloss paint, Klear or any other varnish top coat alone. It also seems to become touch dry incredibly fast. 

 

I use enamels for just about everything model railway related. I'm much more of a wet brusher than a dry brush person. the latter I hardly ever use. A lot of my techniques are directly pinched from oil painting and even water colour work.

Edited December 20, 2020 by Headstock
remove errant s

[gr.king]

A little more on the theme of 2020 achievements...

 

I'd hoped to get more modelling done, but disentangling myself from a life in optometry took up a fair amount of time and effort, as did over 2000 miles of cycling during the year. I had the pleasure of seeing my son married too, on the last possible day before all of the pubs, restaurants and hotels went into lockdown in March. A near miss or what? And so to the modelling:

 

I'd started building, more or less from scratch, a former ECJS 12 wheeled clerestory pantry-third just before the turn of the year, but I put that on the back burner for a while so that I could test-build a set of etches for a GCR self-trimming 4000 gallon tender, an essential counterpart to accurate models of some of the later, large GCR locos such as the B7s and some of the B3s in various periods. I also produced the masters and moulds for some of the resin castings required for details on that tender.

 

That task completed I returned to the pantry-third. It is pictured somewhat strangely below, along with the restaurant-composite I built in 2019, the newer vehicle more or less finished, but awaiting removal of transfer backing paper - because I was still trying to decide whether the lettering was straight and where it should be.

 

With so much that I wanted to do I had trouble deciding what to do next, but in the end it was a set of three of Bill Bedford's "Mousa Models" 3D printed GNR 6 wheeled carriages. Once those were done I felt compelled to do some alterations/corrections  to the positions of the cornices on four D & S etched brass GNR carriages that I had built about twenty years ago so that I could if necessary run the vehicles in combination.

 

After a nasty outbreak of home maintenance and improvement (or long overdue repair) I eased myself back into mid-autumn modelling very gently with a Cambrian Models LNER 6 plank wagon kit, which has at least been painted since this picture was taken, even if it still awaits transfers...

...and after that I rummaged in the box of wagon kits again and decided that the GNR ballast brake kit by D & S looked pretty. I had been meaning to build it for some time in order to go with a couple of ballast wagons I've had for years. It too still awaits transfers, and it probably needs to be weathered too before I do the final assembly as it won't be at all easy to remove and replace the glazing once fitted if I mess it up during a later weathering process!

 

As it felt like a long time since I'd produced a loco, rather than putting the finishing touches to those wagons (something I can possibly do over the Christmas period) I decided next to get on with an engine before festive decorations and involvement robbed me of space and time. One of the easier options seemed to be to build a chassis to go under a Craftsman A5 etched brass body, built by A.N. Other, that I'd acquired a few years ago. My initial optimistic assessment of the simplicity of the task changed a bit when I started to find several features of the body that I would have to change in order to be satisfied with the final model, but as of yesterday the much molested body at last received a coat of primer and here it sits on its scratchbuilt main chassis with a Mike Edge leading bogie.

Don't ask what the main frames are made from. The traditionalists would have a fit if they knew!

 

All the best to everybody. I hope those who have been suffering due to the pandemic restrictions have something better in prospect for 2021.

 

 

 

Edited December 20, 2020 by gr.king
Punctuation

[thegreenhowards]

Somewhat belatedly I thought I'd post some of my modelling this year. I've had quite a prolific year but unfortunately my photo filing didn't keep up so it's taken me a while to sort out the photos for this post. I'll start with the coaching stock and come back to the locos later.

 

This is a 66'6" Gresley sleeper built from cutting and shutting Kirk kits. It was the final piece in the jigsaw allowing me to backdate my Aberdonian rake fully to the blood and custard era.

 

Here are two catering cars needed for my Hear of Midlothian rake in its 1951 Festival of Britain all mark 1format. The rest of the train can be formed from RTR, but there the original RSO and RK are not available RTR. The RK is Comet and the RSO Southern Pride. 

 

This Pullman car 105 is a bit different to the standard Hornby Pullmans with windows in different places. Cars 105/6 and 7 were all the same and all were common on ECML Pullmans in the '50s. I cut and shut two Hornby Pullmans to make this and then used John Peck's superb Precision labels to cover up the resulting mess - these completely cover the umber sections, just leaving me to paint the cream. I haven't worked out how to line round the oval window yet!

 

 

This twin is an Isinglass kit for a D.307 twin SO. It seems from subsequent comments that it should have straight rather than domed ends contrary to the drawing. Andy at Isinglass has supplied me with some straight ends for the roof but I'm keeping it like this for now for some variety.

 

 

I also completed a similar Mailcoach twin TO, this time the plywood sided variety. This was bought half built and badly painted off eBay, so I just had to strip it, provide the underframe fittings and roof and re-paint.

 

 

And a similar Mailcoach tourist buffet from the same source.

 

This is another Kirk cut and shut. This one is a D.16 RKB of which there were only three. One ran in the 1845 KX-Cleethorpes through most of the '50s so I needed one and no kit is available. I was very lucky to that Darryl Tooley provided me with some photos to base it off (thanks Darryl).

 

 

Here are a couple of horseboxes. A D.4 and a D.5, one Parkside and one D&S.

 

 

I finished off my Gresley steel 5 car set with this twin BTK/TK (Mousa on Hornby shorty donors).

 

and this CK (Southern Pride on MJT chassis and roof)- sorry about the rather bilious teak rendition! 

 

I can now for the full 5 car formation as below. The rear twin was done some years ago by the same method.

 

Finally, some rather more successful teak on two Isinglass kits. A GNR D.310 milk brake.

 

And a D.78V buffet car (LNER conversion from a GNR TO).

 

This is my first venture into O gauge - a Kirk BT.

 

More details of all of these builds are on my work bench thread, Coulsdon Works as below.

 

Andy

Edited December 20, 2020 by thegreenhowards

[t-b-g]

1 hour ago, Headstock said:

 

Good afternoon Tony,

 

I have used exactly the same technique on quite a lot of colours, including LNER green and BR crimson. It's hard too define what it is but it gives the finish and extra depth and lustre, as you say a glow, that you don't get from gloss paint, Klear or any other varnish top coat alone. It also seems to become touch dry incredibly fast. 

 

I use enamels for just about everything model railway related. I'm much more of a wet brusher than a dry brush person. the latter I hardly ever use. A lot of my techniques are directly pinched from oil painting and even water colour work.

 

It is a technique I haven't used before but will certainly do so in the future, having seen the results in the smaller scales. The B1 I saw was a model engineering type live steamer.

 

Have you any hints you can pass on regarding the best type of varnish to use. I have a about 6 or 7 different types in the paint store and would rather pick your brains than experiment!

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Tony

[Headstock]

41 minutes ago, t-b-g said:

 

It is a technique I haven't used before but will certainly do so in the future, having seen the results in the smaller scales. The B1 I saw was a model engineering type live steamer.

 

Have you any hints you can pass on regarding the best type of varnish to use. I have a about 6 or 7 different types in the paint store and would rather pick your brains than experiment!

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Tony

 

Tony,

 

I don't have a particular preference. I have used quite a lot of Rail match spraying varnish without issue. Mainly out of convenience, as my local model railway shop stocks it and they only ten minutes drive down the road.

[Tony Wright]

5 hours ago, Beechnut said:

Morning Tony

 

Looking good and I do understand your misgivings re the friction fit wheels, they’re  Sharman by the way which were reckoned to be a cut above Gibson, by me anyway.

Being an ‘S’ modeller these days friction fit wheels, Markits can be used if you’re not too worried about appearance, are the norm. ‘S’ wheels are cast brass which can be machined to take steel tyres. I can machine to press fit sizes and then use the tailstock on the lathe to force them on. Some sort of quartering fixture also has to made up. Even using a press fit Loctite is applied just to be on the safe side. The Loctite doesn’t interfere with the split frame pickup.

Using Markits wheels for split pickup is ok but a fixture is needed to retain the quartering. Mick Nicholson wrote an article on such a device in the short lived Finescale Railway Modelling Review. It was for 4mm but applies to any scale where Markits wheels can be used with appropriate changes to dimensions.

I used this method for a BR class 02 shutter build but I’ve never been happy with it, too many spokes and oversize on the diameter, it’ll get it rebuilt with the correct wheels, one day.

I do have six surplus 21mm Romford wheels but they have nineteen spokes, three insulated. You’re welcome to them and EM axles if you want them.

 

Keep up the good work 

 

Brendan

 

Good evening Brendan,

 

Thanks for clarifying the origin of the drivers. I hope I didn't come across as critical of your workmanship (and generosity), but it seemed a salutary tale - one I've told before; based on experience. 

 

As Tony Gee has observed, wheels are under discussion again. 

 

I can only reiterate my own findings regarding driving wheels. I admit I've never tried the best friction fit wheels (Ultrascale), and your Sharmans are my first encounter with Mike's drivers. Which leaves the most-common. Granted, my experiences are with regard to those driving wheels from years ago - tyres falling off, no set concentric and shifting on their axles under (heavy) load. I recall the mighty Roy Jackson once having to 'pin' a set of friction-fit drivers underneath one of his Pacifics after its motion resembled metal spaghetti subsequent to the drivers shifting on their axles. Those who knew Roy can imagine the response!  

 

I'm sure many (as shown on here) have produced beautiful-running locos using such wheels, but, I admit, I don't have the necessary skills to achieve such success. 

 

There's also no doubt that Markits/Romford drivers are expensive, until relatively recently most of the wheels were 'generic', they're 'wider' than the alternatives and they have a great big screw head in their middles (something I'm too lazy to disguise, as was Peter Denny it would seem, at least at times). However, quartering is a doddle, they never shift on their axles, the tyres never come off and they're, to all intents and purposes for our uses, indestructible. One can dwell with iron as long as one wishes when attaching the motion, without the slightest risk of melting a wheel centre and, having either nickel silver or stainless steel tyres, they never rust. They're also true-round and concentric. 

 

I know, to some, my approach is that of a Philistine. That said, with all the Markits-shod locos on Little Bytham (and those I've built for Retford) I know I can open the taps with total confidence, sure of the fact that, as appropriate, the locos will travel at very high speed and will haul prodigious loads; with not the slightest concern for the drivers (the wheels, that is).

 

Meanwhile, many thanks for donating the Ivatt in the first place. It's now completed, and weathered (I'll take pictures tomorrow, after the paint has dried). I've had to make new pick-ups; as you surmised, the plungers aren't much good. Your generosity will ensure a 'Mucky Duck' finds a home on Retford. I'd like to think the late, great man would have liked it.

 

Kind regards,

 

Tony.