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14 minutes ago, The Fatadder said:

 

 

as for fixing, I use Evostick which seems to have done the job nicely so far.

 

Agreed, Don't do as I did, and try and use cyano - I thought it would be more controllable, but the resultant bond was too brittle and the sides kept separating from the roof.

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17 minutes ago, Barry Ten said:

 

Agreed, Don't do as I did, and try and use cyano - I thought it would be more controllable, but the resultant bond was too brittle and the sides kept separating from the roof.


and by evostick, is it this stuff?  I like to check to make sure I’m not getting the wrong stuff!
 

thanks

 

David

036D3D9B-F967-4A34-BA6E-DBCE9E27CA42.jpeg

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Regarding "professional" loco builders. Geoff Brewin told me that he used to build locos for other people when he worked for an optician. He got fed up of working for others, so set up on his own and continued building locos for others. It was he quality of Comet kits that led him to get involved. Whilst the building of locos for others was not his main source of income, I considered him to be a professional loo kit builder because he built them for other people and accepted payment.

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10 hours ago, LNER4479 said:

Great pix! (modern history)

 

Yep - all preserved. Black 5 5428 at NYMR; K1 62005 a regular at Fort William for the Jacobite; K4 3442 (61994) no longer a runner, destined for John Cameron's Scottish museum with No.9. N7 out of service at North Norfolk (I think)

 

1968 was of course the 'dark time' for mainline steam, pending the 'return to steam' in 1971 so many locos were stored around the country like this, not many preserved lines running, one or two steam centres. Many of today's steam fleet still in Barry Scrapyard ...

 

All very different nowadays! (Covid notwithstanding)

 

The N7 is under restoration at the EARM - I think they are hoping to have it done for it's 100th birthday (2024). It's been missed as been out of steam for a while now.

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I've been using Copydex to attach carriage roofs (and goods van ones too) where the design demands the roof goes on last, on models of both plastic and metal construction for many years.

 

I think the one on the worked-over Lima GUV in the attached photo has been in place since 1998 but others have been removed with ease when necessary.

 

John

2020.01_Lima GUV_G052c [r].jpg

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On 10/02/2021 at 21:09, Tony Wright said:

.

4. If there is anything 'wrong' with a finished model, the best will always put it right. 

 

 

 

My C2 was supplied WITHOUT lamps, that’s wrong isn’t it? Can I have some sent to Oz please. 

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21 hours ago, Clearwater said:

Whilst I've not brought any part completed or kit built locos over a certain popular auction site, I'd suggest a couple of other motivations:

1) a cost effective way to buy certain parts, for example wheels or motors.  If you pay £100 and get a set of wheels that would otherwise cost £60-70 plus a motor costing £40+, you may be ahead.   This may be particularly true if those motors are no longer in production.  

2) If the kit is long since out of production, it may be the only way of obtaining that prototype absent scratch building.  Even if badly assembled, it may offer a good scope for cannibalisation.  Take the Raven A2.  Limited number of kits produced, go for high prices in unassembled form, if you want one, then why wouldn't you buy a partially assembled kit?

 

David

I agree with you completely, I purchased an LNER J10 of ebay for 50 quid, new wheels and motor and she runs like a dream, yes DJH still produce the kit but this was built very well. 
 

Another hit and miss was an LNER B5, no longer in production, but a new motor has been fitted, parts are ready to go to make it more suitable for my era and wheels I’m waiting on. Rang Markits the other night asking about my order and I got “I’m busy, what the f**k do you want Jesse”, my reply was “My f**king wheels”.... a bit of banter later and I should have them in a few weeks. 

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12 hours ago, Barry Ten said:

 

Saint Olaves (below) is restricted to my outer curves because of the steps (and even then, they're not modelled as they should be, with the characteristic tuck-in). But to omit the front steps spoils the look of the engine, I feel, so I accept the compromise.

 

schools.jpg

 

I've managed to fit front steps to Lord Nelsons, King Arthurs and S15s and get them to squeak around the inner curve as well, but Schools seem to be a particularly challenging case.

 

Al

Good morning Al,

 

I'm sure this has been mentioned before, but by reducing a School's bogie's movement, sharp curves can be negotiated............. And the steps can still be retained. 

 

881425109_Schoolsbogie01.jpg.4b7b58c609a434b632d63801696ec740.jpg

 

1324351679_Schoolsbogie02.jpg.bab691865771906813a59aadbb9f30a1.jpg

 

It needs a dead chassis, of course, but it's effectively a slightly-flexible 0-8-0. Even the rear bogie wheel splashers can be fitted, yet this will still go round 2' 6" radious curves. 

 

I think Baz Oliver solved similar problems, but in a different way. 

 

1309851193_SEFinecastSchools.jpg.96c6b868855eb80cb50fb5125a8622a2.jpg

 

I don't think there's any finer or better-looking 4-4-0 than an SR Schools (the real things, I mean). I built this from a South Eastern Finecast kit and Ian Rathbone painted it. 

 

 

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2 hours ago, Bucoops said:

 

The N7 is under restoration at the EARM - I think they are hoping to have it done for it's 100th birthday (2024). It's been missed as been out of steam for a while now.

 

Here she is on the day her most recent boiler ticket expired - 18th April 2015, on the Churnet Valley Railway close to Consall Forge:

 

SJP2O4B6560-Edit02150418.jpg.f6bb395ad555b8b95229b1c6ac7ffb05.jpg

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Hopefully not too off-topic but perhaps a close parallel to the cost of commissioning a builder to make a loco is the artist world.  I'm sure many of us have admired, and probably have the odd print or two, of the works of Philip Hawkins.  His website states takes commissions though I'm willing to bet he has a waiting list of several years and the cost of a commission will run substantially into four figures if not five.  However, I have seen one or two originals in auctions that have not necessarily realised such a high price.  I can see a logic for paying a premium if you want your favourite trainspotting snap turned into a work of art but not necessarily being willing to pay for someone else's.

 

David

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16 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

Good morning Tony,

 

Seen before, but well worth a second look........................

 

1496961854_Locos20.jpg.814179b3930d909aa15d390243da1e4b.jpg

 

If anyone 'challenged' you over the price for work of this quality, they'd be nuts!

 

If ever a model loco deserves the epithet 'professionally-built/-painted/-weathered', this is it (in the truest sense).

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

 

 

 

 

That is O Gauge isn't it.

 

I reckon that cost as much as a second hand car. If under £1k it would be a bargain.

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Lets think of me a hobbyist modeller. What would my costs be?

 

My kitbashed, DMU a Gloucester Cross Country 119.

 

VERY rough times

 

Pre fit hinges, 2 hours

Soldering up 2 hours.

Bogies frames 2 hours

Motor bogie say 6 hours on and off

Masters for resin seats and bogie frames 3 hours

Casting on and off, 4 hours

Assembling interiors 3-4 hours

Roofs 1 hour

Cab domes 2 hours

Bow Ends 2 hours

Painting 4 hours

Lining and transfers 6 hours

Handrails 2 hours

 

40  hours plus things I forgot.

 

At my weekend rate (when I model) over a grand.

 

But it is my hobby and it is for me.

 

Would I do it for money?

 

No as I could earn more writing software.

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11 hours ago, sandra said:


Tony,

 

Buying a kit built locomotive built by someone else is always risky and can involve more work than starting a new kit from scratch. However it can be a much cheaper way of buying all the parts that make up a locomotive kit.

8C93E5E5-B2E6-4B08-9E2B-0047CAE49533.jpeg.34bae28de79cc8fa77c98bf87ad71687.jpegAs you know I’ve been building locos for Retford and as an example here’s a locomotive I’ve just bought. This is an A3 built by an unknown builder from a DJH kit. It cost less than £100 on eBay. It is of course built in OO so at the very least I’ll have to convert it to EM.


It does, unusually, run very well as it has a Portescape motor and is very free running.  However it has a double chimney which it would not have had in 1957 so that will be changed but the biggest problem is that whilst it doesn’t look too bad the lining is not good enough and so it will have to have a complete repaint. I don’t know if it’s glued or soldered together so if I do strip the paint and it’s been glued together it might all fall apart and I end up with kit.

 

I think I’ll do the EM conversion first, 

get it to run properly, test it on Retford and then address the issue of the lining.


Sandra

Good morning Sandra,

 

May I be 'brutal' in my comments, please? 

 

I'd be inclined to dunk the whole loco body and the tender body in paint stripper, and go from there. Other than the poor lining (the firebox shouldn't be lined, anyway), the cabside numbers are all over the place and are probably too small. 

 

Construction-wise, the vacuum ejector pipe shouldn't turn up towards the cab (yes, I know some weren't dead straight) and there shouldn't be a clip for it on the smokebox other than at the flange. In fact, the other clip positions are nowhere near where they should be. The cab roof isn't on straight and, as discussed, the front bulkhead/coal plate on the tender should not lean backwards for this period (they were made vertical during the War). The front handrail on the tender is also far too inboard, and there are blobs of solder (or glue?) where the coal rails meet the sides. The tender side also appears to bulge at its base. 

 

Looking at the chassis, the slidebars incline upwards to the rear (the opposite of what they should be), as with Hornby's A4s. 

 

Since it was bought for less than £100.00, I'd say you've got a bargain, especially if it runs so well, though a rebuild is called for in my view. 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

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I used to like messing around on PCs, but now, no just a tool, do I want to sit there playing games on them? building them?

 

No because I work on them and after work I would like a break.

 

In the software world I am not alone, lots of us have hobbies requiring skills, if we games consoles on TVs.

 

Making a living from a hobby can be hobby ending.

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11 hours ago, copleyhill007 said:

Blue Peter, Bittern and the N7 owned by Fred Youell were all in Neville Hill for quite some time. I did get in to see them after three attempts but without a camera.

I was with you on one occasion, if you recall, Dave; when Drury kicked us out! 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

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Good afternoon everyone, a little help if I may!

 

I'm absolutely over the moon with Hornby's A2/2s, I have both 501 and 505 and they're incredible. They'll look even better once they've been shipped over to Mr Foster for him to work his magic on!

 

But, 505 has a glaring issue that seems common on the A2/2. The cab/firebox/running plate fit is all wrong, and looks frankly awful, ruining an otherwise superb model, as pictured below. Does anyone know how this issue can be rectified? 

 

501 has the same issue, but luckily is no where near as bad and is acceptable (although not perfect)

 

I'm not a confident modeller at all, so I hope the solution doesn't require lots of disassembly and hacking!

 

Stay safe and happy modelling,

 

DylanIMG_8036.jpeg.6c1baa245aed27d1ab73f53170dade9a.jpeg

IMG_8040.jpeg

IMG_8041.jpeg

IMG_8042.jpeg

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