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49 minutes ago, Barry Ten said:

 

 

The one that's now concerning me is a 2006 Britannia which was run relatively extensively until a few years ago, then put into storage. When I got it out late last year, though, it was exhibiting similar symptoms to PMP's Stanier 4-6-0s. I haven't taken it apart for a proper investigation, though. Ironically this one didn't go into the attic so it's had a more temperature-controlled storage environment.

 

 

Al

I’ve recently had a similar experience with 2 stored Hornby Brits that had never run. The first, 70052 was very reluctant at first and then once running had a very pronounced tight spot. I stripped it down completely, removed a lot of white grease that seemed too thick and which had all sunk to the bottom of the gear train and then re oiled and greased all of the key moving parts. It is now as smooth as silk (much better than a more recently produced Brit). The second, 70008 again never run, is locked solid - will strip that down too in due course. Brits aren’t listed on the Mazak rot list (the first edition Scots and Patriots are) so I remain optimistic that 70008 remains salvageable. Hopefully yours will be salvageable able too. 

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Regarding joggles in ejector pipes, Could it be that apart from keeping the ejector pipe a reasonable constant from the boiler, the joggles are arranged to put a backward slope on the pipe so as to drain any condensate? There is what seems to be a drain visible just forward of the cab spectacle in some of the photographs. Its another of those little wiggley pipes that festoon engines.

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8 hours ago, Mike 84C said:

Regarding joggles in ejector pipes, Could it be that apart from keeping the ejector pipe a reasonable constant from the boiler, the joggles are arranged to put a backward slope on the pipe so as to drain any condensate? There is what seems to be a drain visible just forward of the cab spectacle in some of the photographs. Its another of those little wiggley pipes that festoon engines.

I don't know the answers Mike,

 

The wiggly pipes are something I always put on the models I build of big LNER locos. I think the one in front of the cab is a drain of some description. Originally, it drained right on top of the LH Cartazzi axle box, and, for obvious reasons, was then bent to dribble further forward. 

 

As for ejector pipe joggles, 60501's bent upwards at the front, yet, 60504's (for a time) bent downwards. Then it was straight. For a time 60505's wasn't parallel with the handrail. 

 

What it means (at least to me) is always consult prototype pictures when building a model.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

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10 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

You must think I'm organised Paul,

 

I really have no idea, but it was when it first came out. When was that?

 

1275497855_HornbyBrushType2.jpg.f6e1b890f2e416f9fee5352b2aa9b9ba.jpg

 

I actually think it's rather a good model, though the new chassis needs weathering

 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

That’s helpful knowing it was a first release review sample, when you described it as ‘recent’, this livery has been re-released in the past few years. My interest (and concern), were if it were one of those, I’m relieved to hear it isn’t.

 

Regarding it’s accuracy, there’s  relatively few issues with it, none that can’t be fixed with a bit of effort. Out of the available models so far, it’s the best. At some stage someone will tell you it looks nothing like a 31, despite it looking very much like a 31, an that Triang’s first 1960’s release is far better.

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I think that's exactly the tone that needs to be adopted in dealing with certain foreign "diplomats", also with the kind of muck-raking journalists who ask blatantly rude, aggressive, extremist, sensationalist, "ambush questions" and who then proceed to interrupt the attempts to answer them politely.

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Following the successful Autumn 2020 Missenden Abbey Virtual Event, another Event will be held this Spring on 6th and 7th March.

For more information - here is a link:

https://www.missendenrailwaymodellers.org.uk/index.php/spring-2021-virtual-event-plans/

 

A wide range of topics will be covered, including 4 live events (via Zoom which require registration).

An article covering the M & GNR bridge building for Little Bytham is just one of those included.

David

 

 

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3 hours ago, LNER4479 said:

You could always write one of those 'world's shortest books' on the subject of diplomacy, Tony ...

Along with a certain country's book of war heroes.......................

 

Looking back, I'm astonished at how different groups were described. Returning to that 'educationally sub-normal' class, I spent three weeks with them on teaching practice in the early summer of 1968. The school in Chester overlooked the cutting between the tunnels through which the lines to Shrewsbury, and North Wales passed, so I spent a fair bit of time gazing into it. But, can you imagine 'describing' kids like that today? It was the norm over 50 years ago, as was corporal punishment. How times change. 

 

What was amazing (in hindsight) was that the kids knew 'their place'. I was greeted with 'We're thick, Sir'. I wonder what happened to them - they'll be in their 60s now....................

 

Regards,

 

Tony.  

Edited by Tony Wright
typo error
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4 hours ago, PMP said:

That’s helpful knowing it was a first release review sample, when you described it as ‘recent’, this livery has been re-released in the past few years. My interest (and concern), were if it were one of those, I’m relieved to hear it isn’t.

 

Regarding it’s accuracy, there’s  relatively few issues with it, none that can’t be fixed with a bit of effort. Out of the available models so far, it’s the best. At some stage someone will tell you it looks nothing like a 31, despite it looking very much like a 31, an that Triang’s first 1960’s release is far better.

I used 'recent' to distinguish it from the earlier Tri-ang Brush Type 2. Though it's as 'recent' as getting on for 20 years ago! 

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Progress reports.....................

 

931417997_CountyTank02.jpg.6c2b5fc4630b76a52261306f8efa6f0d.jpg

 

I installed one of the latest DJH motor/gearboxes in the Gibson 'County' Tank. Super-smooth...............

 

1887835900_CountyTank03.jpg.441a9d81c8726a1ff974b142f641730e.jpg

 

Because of the 'predicted' problems caused by the arrangement of the pony truck, and its ability to negotiate tighter curves, I've used insulated drivers all round. I'm also glad I've narrowed the frames, which should give the pony more sideplay. I'll have to wait and see.

 

266642631_CountyTank04.jpg.068405db937a5ba01d1e13e6ddda9fcb.jpg

 

So far, so good........................ Rock-steady on the rolling road. 

 

Has anyone else built one of these kits? 

 

 

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21 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

'educationally sub-normal' ... can you imagine 'describing' kids like that today?

 

I wonder what happened to them - they'll be in their 60s now....................

Present day PC expressions probably include 'learning difficulties' and 'socially disadvantaged'.

 

Perhaps they're all working in the Hornby factory in China, assembling Thompson pacifics?

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It usually saves my time by building two (or more) locos at the same time.

 

However, it's better if they're the same type. 

 

Not in this case......................581485385_J301.jpg.623625a0c80da10cb35435e2471bd4d0.jpg

 

These are the frames for a LRM J3. Again, as with the 'County' Tank, I've used Comet OO spacers to reduce the width of the frames. Why? This loco will be for the M&GNR section of LB, which has curves down to 2' radius, thus considerable sideplay will be needed. 

 

In all the other LRM loco kits I've built in OO (about six), I've had to file down the front faces of the bearings to get Romford/Markits drivers to fit, if using the LRM OO spacers. It rather suggests to me that these (excellent) kits are designed more for 'finer' wheels. In fact, rather like the Gibson loco kits, I think they're more designed for EM or P4.

 

No matter, with a tweak here and there, they make up well in OO. 

 

The drive is LRM's own 50-1 gear mount and a Mashima motor, arranged to be 'invisible'. 

 

1902193871_J302.jpg.ee107ae14e6084925837b12aabab4acf.jpg

 

This one followed my normal practice of having a live chassis.  

 

170904809_J303.jpg.017e3e212b43e7011ec29627d029347a.jpg

 

Nice and steady on test............................

 

I've cut the armature off at the top (with great care, using a slitting disc in a mini drill), otherwise it'll poke through the top of the firebox. Clearances will be tight. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Tony Wright
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39 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

Progress reports.....................

 

931417997_CountyTank02.jpg.6c2b5fc4630b76a52261306f8efa6f0d.jpg

 

I installed one of the latest DJH motor/gearboxes in the Gibson 'County' Tank. Super-smooth...............

 

1887835900_CountyTank03.jpg.441a9d81c8726a1ff974b142f641730e.jpg

 

Because of the 'predicted' problems caused by the arrangement of the pony truck, and its ability to negotiate tighter curves, I've used insulated drivers all round. I'm also glad I've narrowed the frames, which should give the pony more sideplay. I'll have to wait and see.

 

266642631_CountyTank04.jpg.068405db937a5ba01d1e13e6ddda9fcb.jpg

 

So far, so good........................ Rock-steady on the rolling road. 

 

Has anyone else built one of these kits? 

 

 

 

Not yet, Tony, but I have the Models and Leisure County Tank in my stash. I believe some of the M&L kits found their way into the Gibson range but I'm not sure if that's the case here, or whether there were any differences in the components. Mine came with a

set of Ultrascale drivers and EM axles which I won't be using.

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2 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

Progress reports.....................

 

931417997_CountyTank02.jpg.6c2b5fc4630b76a52261306f8efa6f0d.jpg

 

I installed one of the latest DJH motor/gearboxes in the Gibson 'County' Tank. Super-smooth...............

 

1887835900_CountyTank03.jpg.441a9d81c8726a1ff974b142f641730e.jpg

 

Because of the 'predicted' problems caused by the arrangement of the pony truck, and its ability to negotiate tighter curves, I've used insulated drivers all round. I'm also glad I've narrowed the frames, which should give the pony more sideplay. I'll have to wait and see.

 

266642631_CountyTank04.jpg.068405db937a5ba01d1e13e6ddda9fcb.jpg

 

So far, so good........................ Rock-steady on the rolling road. 

 

Has anyone else built one of these kits? 

 

 

Yes but I didn't leave the trailing axle rigid, I did what I usually do and turned the back of the frames into a pony truck. I find that simple sideways movement doesn't work very well with this wheel arrangement - especially when there is a very large difference in wheel diameter as in this case. I fit a radial spacer inside the frames at the rear, pivot this on a screw as far forward as is practicable and the saw the frames somewhere behind the cab steps/sandboxes where it doesn't show much.

When designing locos with radial axleboxes I use the same technique with a pony truck which mimics the effective radius of the axleboxes.

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3 hours ago, Barry Ten said:

 

Not yet, Tony, but I have the Models and Leisure County Tank in my stash. I believe some of the M&L kits found their way into the Gibson range but I'm not sure if that's the case here, or whether there were any differences in the components. Mine came with a

set of Ultrascale drivers and EM axles which I won't be using.

Thanks Al,

 

This one is mainly in etched brass with a few cast components - boiler/smokebox/one of the bunkers. 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

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5 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

Thanks Al,

 

This one is mainly in etched brass with a few cast components - boiler/smokebox/one of the bunkers. 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

 

I just had a look at the frames in the M&L County and they look extremely similar, together with wide frame spacers.

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4 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

Along with a certain country's book of war heroes.......................

 

Looking back, I'm astonished at how different groups were described. Returning to that 'educationally sub-normal' class, I spent three weeks with them on teaching practice in the early summer of 1968. The school in Chester overlooked the cutting between the tunnels through which the lines to Shrewsbury, and North Wales passed, so I spent a fair bit of time gazing into it. But, can you imagine 'describing' kids like that today? It was the norm over 50 years ago, as was corporal punishment. How times change. 

 

What was amazing (in hindsight) was that the kids knew 'their place'. I was greeted with 'We're thick, Sir'. I wonder what happened to them - they'll be in their 60s now....................

 

Regards,

 

Tony.  

In Scotland, they are known as having 'Special Educational Needs', which is supposed to include those that are super brainy, but all those that I found were mentally of physically challenged, and quite often from broken homes. I was supply teaching in a special needs school for a time, and most of them were nice kids - often better than you get in mainstream. My best teaching experience was in that school, when I got a lass in a wheelchair who had to speak through an artificial voice box to be able to saw a bit of wood - she was absolutely delighted!

 

Lloyd

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21 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

Do you think I should join the diplomatic corps?

 

I should state that we live in more-enlightened times now, and there are conditions which some folk have, resulting in their struggling with English, yet they are highly-intelligent. But this guy really had annoyed me. 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

Good evening Tony - yes, I think you should join the diplomatic corps!

 

I sometimes talk to customers in my day job who are astonishingly rude, or ignorant, or who seem utterly unaware that things have moved on in their lives from the time when their world was just them and their doting parents, and that they may have to take their turn with other people, or endure the same delays to supply that we're all experiencing at the moment. And as for the 'do you know who I am' brigade (of which I'd say your man there was a fully paid up member)...

 

It's very difficult to maintain a polite facade in the face of some of them and I've done exactly what you did on occasion. And I hate to admit it, but sometimes it feels gooooooood!! :D

 

Do you remember year ago when Chris Tarrant had a court case in the papers because he rammed another driver? The guy was driving a Porsche (!) and having cut up Mr Tarrant, then subjected him to a stream of abuse. Tarrant completely lost it, floored the accelerator and smacked into the side of the man's car (though I should stress not at any speed - there was no suggestion of danger of injury, just danger to bodywork).

Anyway, he was predictably prosecuted for dangerous driving and given a stiff fine and an equally stiff talking to, the gist being that as a public figure (this was before his railway TV programs, when he was a very high profile DJ and well known celebrity) he should be setting a good example as others might emulate him, etc.

After the case, he said in an interview that while he regretted losing his temper, accepted that he might have caused injury and that no-one should behave as he had done, the exact moment when the front of his car made contact with the Porsche's door was one of the happiest moments of his life.

 

I often think of that moment. Occasionally with some envy.

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Thanks for the info. 

Though to clarify, I bought a Judith  Edge Kit, this was brand new, though the instructions went along the lines of part 6 to part 12 and sub assembly with part 19. "If you get me"

Yes most of the part have a number on the copper sheet, if you can see what it says. This is a well made kit but the instructions are way over my head, "NO EXPLODED VIEW" ala AIRFIX.

With no experience building kits like this, I will have to resort to someone more skilled than me.

The kit comes with all parts to build except, wheels, pickups, buffers and motor.

I have a motor that may do the job, and wheels from a Hornby 040 steam shunter that will do fine.

Looking at the parts, i'm just looking at a jigsaw with no reference picture to work from ie"pieces in a bag with no box or artwork"

Yes I have some pictures of the part built kit from J.Edge and pictures of the real engine, but it's over my head

20210215_152723.jpg

20210215_152742.jpg

de2-sub-assemblies.jpg

Yorkshire DE2 0-4-0DE YE design.jpg

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6 minutes ago, josephmarsh said:

 

I have a motor that may do the job, and wheels from a Hornby 040 steam shunter that will do fine.

 

20210215_152723.jpg

20210215_152742.jpg

de2-sub-assemblies.jpg

Yorkshire DE2 0-4-0DE YE design.jpg

 

I'm afraid that it is highly unlikely that these wheels 'will do fine'.

 

You are, as you admit, out of your depth; best to sell the kit on.

 

John Isherwood.

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26 minutes ago, josephmarsh said:

Thanks for the info. 

Though to clarify, I bought a Judith  Edge Kit, this was brand new, though the instructions went along the lines of part 6 to part 12 and sub assembly with part 19. "If you get me"

Yes most of the part have a number on the copper sheet, if you can see what it says. This is a well made kit but the instructions are way over my head, "NO EXPLODED VIEW" ala AIRFIX.

With no experience building kits like this, I will have to resort to someone more skilled than me.

The kit comes with all parts to build except, wheels, pickups, buffers and motor.

I have a motor that may do the job, and wheels from a Hornby 040 steam shunter that will do fine.

Looking at the parts, i'm just looking at a jigsaw with no reference picture to work from ie"pieces in a bag with no box or artwork"

Yes I have some pictures of the part built kit from J.Edge and pictures of the real engine, but it's over my head

20210215_152723.jpg

20210215_152742.jpg

de2-sub-assemblies.jpg

Yorkshire DE2 0-4-0DE YE design.jpg

I think I'd suggest taking John Isherwood's advice, Joseph, and move it on.

 

Judith Edge kits do go together very well, but I don't think they're for the inexperienced. That's not to say they're over-complicated, but I think (as with all complex, etched brass kits) that some measure of skill and know-how is required. From what you say, the instructions would assume that, especially with no exploded diagram (are you sure there isn't one?).

 

Apart from some rudimentary drawings, there's no exploded diagram in the LRM J3 kit I'm building. The side-elevation illustrating the prescribed method of fixing the motor is very useful for checking clearance and fit, but that's really all apart from a sketch of the frames, the brake rigging and the cab interior arrangement. There are a large number of pages of written instructions, which do assume some level of skill, and a list of the parts. This is OK, and it relates to the photocopies of the etches, where the parts are numbered on the fret. Except, in places, the photocopies are of little use since they're rather 'blanked-in'. As one cuts the parts out, the numbers (in the scrap parts of the fret) tend to get rather lost. 

 

Without appearing 'cocky', nothing of this matters to me, since I rarely read instructions and, anyway, the kit  is so well-produced that the build is really intuitive. That said, a full exploded diagram would have been useful. One is provided in the Gibson 'County' Tank kit. 

 

I know it's disappointing not to be able to build what you'd like, but if you don't have the skills yourself and the cost of having a pro' build it might be prohibitive, best cut your losses. 

 

Kind regards,

 

Tony.  

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I found building a plane to be a very "interesting" experience with regards to instructions. I got two huge sheets which had to be joined together to make a single scale plan, and then a set of typed instructions with no diagrams at all. Needless to say these instructions assumed a high degree of familiarity with regards to the naming of parts and materials.

 

blueprint.jpg.5c7082cd9f5acc955d64027a6fec27b3.jpg

 

However, gradually things began to make sense, helped by the fact that every piece that's glued to another is one less to puzzle over!

 

mustang.jpg.5108920c252e865c7aa65f0ac1be9146.jpg

 

This week I've been doing some 1/8th scale scratchbuilding for the cockpit parts:

 

cockpit1.jpg.a7955c5662ed64a6bc46e2e79ba7e6fb.jpg

 

Sorry for the digression, but it's been illuminating to dip into a completely different constructional hobby and get a sense of how railway modelling must look from the "outside".

 

Al

 

 

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14 hours ago, PMP said:

That’s helpful knowing it was a first release review sample, when you described it as ‘recent’, this livery has been re-released in the past few years. My interest (and concern), were if it were one of those, I’m relieved to hear it isn’t.

 

Regarding it’s accuracy, there’s  relatively few issues with it, none that can’t be fixed with a bit of effort. Out of the available models so far, it’s the best. At some stage someone will tell you it looks nothing like a 31, despite it looking very much like a 31, an that Triang’s first 1960’s release is far better.

HI Paul

 

I am going to disagree about the Hornby Brush Type 2 being the best. Its running gear (if not of the problem Mazak batches) is excellent, and the moulding detail is superb. For those of us who model the more historical part of diesel and electric modelling, the absence of the band around the body is a let down. I know on the prototype it wasn't very thick but it was there, a painted band on the green ones isn't enough. The absence on blue locos when it should be visible is a total let down, like no boiler bands on a black steam loco. Look at the weathering on a Brush 2 before refurbishment all the grot that built up where the beading band was.

 

My main gripe about the Hornby model is the roof profile. The model has an almost continuous arc. It should be nearly flat across the center. Tri-ang, Airfix, Lima and me got this feature in our models. To me the shape is more important than the nicely moulded detail that cannot be seen when the loco is a few feet away, but the shape can. 

Edited by Clive Mortimore
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