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None of my HMRS Pressfix are of the most recent variety but I have found that once the individual item is lifted from the (heavy) support sheet and placed loosely on the model, the (thin) backing paper that still supports the transfer can be very slightly dampened, rendering it just sufficiently transparent to allow a decent first attempt at positioning. If the transfer is only pressed down very lightly at first, I can usually manage the job of nudging it slightly one way or the other to fine-tune the position before soaking the carrier paper off it entirely.

Edited by gr.king
Spelling mistake! Plus later clarification.
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13 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

With recent discussions regarding various transfers, I've started putting them on the now-repainted Nu-Cast V2. 

 

 59547024_JesseSimV203.jpg.29a27a57cb285b590728ae05ab86b572.jpg

 

The black is Halfords rattle can satin acrylic, applied straight from the can (and all over my hands and face - nothing changes!). 

 

The lining is Modelmasters' BR mixed traffic waterslide product. The numbers/BR totem are Pressfix (off a sheet where they'll release and aren't filled-in). 

 

Both are soaked in water (filtered, because this part of Lincs is limestone country), then, when in place, covered in Decalfix (which accounts for the staining). This really sucks the transfers down, but softens them in the process. I find it best to leave the Decalfix to thoroughly dry (at least three hours in a warm environment) before removing the residue with filtered water. 

 

Varnishing/weathering will then complete the job.....................

I’m glad she’s getting some TLC 

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57 minutes ago, gr.king said:

None of my HMRS Pressfix are of the most recent variety but I have found that once the individual item is lifted from the support sheet and placed on the model, the backing paper care be very slightly dampened, rendering it just sufficiently transparent to allow a decent first attempt at positioning. If the transfer is only pressed down very lightly at first, I can usually manage the job of nudging it slightly one way or the other to fine-tune the position before soaking the carrier paper off it entirely.

 

I've also found it helps to slightly reduce the tack of the transfer by rubbing it gently between fingers, such that it doesn't want to grab onto the model at the first point of contact.

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4 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

Good morning David,

 

Though I don't know for sure, I'd be surprised if any V2s were still in black (officially) by 1960. Certainly, in Bytham's set year (1958) there would still be a few in BR lined black, all with the early totem (there'd be some in green carrying the early totem as well). 

 

My model of 60876 is based on a picture in Peter Coster's Book of the V2s (Irwell Press), which shows the loco (very clean) at Doncaster, in 1955; still displaying its worksplate on the cabside. That's three years before my depiction of Bytham, but I find I'm becoming more 'flexible' with the timescale on LB now. 

 

My recent alteration of Hornby's 60501 to 60502 is really too early for Bytham. The loco still has its numberplate high up on the smokebox door, still has a rimmed chimney and it still carries the early BR totem on its tender. That dates it at the latest as 1955/1956 (three/two years too early), but, since I'd started trainspotting by then, I don't mind. I might well have seen A2/2s in that condition, but I was only nine/ten and wouldn't really have noticed. 

 

I run the Prototype DELTIC, but that didn't appear on the ECML until 1959, and I love A3s with double chimneys and German blinkers (the latter fitment, applied after Bytham's station was demolished). In 1958, at least one of my A4s would still have had a single chimney, but the locos are far better looking with a double Kylchap. As for the production Deltics? Well, I must have some of those!

 

Does all of the above offend the purists? If I say 'I don't care', I hope I'm not perceived as being dismissive. As is well known, my modelling is entirely self-indulgent. In 1955/'56, when I began trainspotting, detail features on steam locos just described were commonplace, but by the time I'd finished, diesels were in the ascendancy. 

 

Rule 1, I think.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

I have the book you mention. But I've found a colour photo of the said loco in  Gavin Morrison's Working Steam Gresley V2's. Probably at the same visit. It looks stunning.

Edited by davidw
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1 hour ago, Barry Ten said:

 

I've also found it helps to slightly reduce the tack of the transfer by rubbing it gently between fingers, such that it doesn't want to grab onto the model at the first point of contact.

That's worth knowing about. I imagine it is a very useful dodge when applying the transfers to the officially specified gloss surface. As I rarely do that, normally having no more than a satin finish at best on the paintwork, I don't tend to get the problem of too much initial grab.

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18 minutes ago, gr.king said:

That's worth knowing about. I imagine it is a very useful dodge when applying the transfers to the officially specified gloss surface. As I rarely do that, normally having no more than a satin finish at best on the paintwork, I don't tend to get the problem of too much initial grab.

 

There's a similar dodge with Tamiya masking tape which can be a bit grabby at first, as I've found when masking coach sides and having the whole lot come off when I try and remove the mask. By peeling the tape on and off a bit of fluff-free fabric, it loses a bit of grabbiness but still adheres well enough to work.

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2 hours ago, 60027Merlin said:

Another Hornby A2/2 surfacing this time done up to suit its last 16 or so months.

 

776992107_A2.260501CockotheNorth(4).JPG.8807970c8fddde80d5ae4fa6efaab7a3.JPG

 

Lovely stuff Eric,

 

Even down to the joggle in the ejector pipe and the drain at its cab end.. 

 

Have you changed the bogie wheels (they look finer than Hornby's)? That said, the latest Hornby ones are far superior than those supplied before.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

Edited by Tony Wright
to add something
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5 hours ago, richard i said:

Help please.

there was discussion on transfers on here so can someone help.

I am not getting on with these transfers. The water slide are old and break apart when lifted off the backing. The pressfix do not come away from the paper so you can see exactly where they need to line up. The writing on the paper does not exactly match the transfer. What do people paint on to save old transfers? What is the solution to the press fix ones?

2CDFEB7B-716C-4447-9408-9343085223A8.jpeg.5c5d3a205100bf1368610d76e3caf952.jpeg

many thanks richard 

 

Hi Richard.  Your photo suggests that you are cutting through the full depth of support paper when using the transfers.  With HMRS transfers, the instructions advise scoring round the transfer with a sharp knife and lifting the tissue layer off the backing card... if you do this, the tissue is transparent and locating the transfer on the model is a doddle.   (I discovered this the hard way too!).  Lift the transfers like this:

 

IMG_4352.jpg.29502c72c3e15ea1afe4973480db4b88.jpg

 

Hope this helps?

 

Phil.

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6 hours ago, richard i said:

Help please.

there was discussion on transfers on here so can someone help.

I am not getting on with these transfers. The water slide are old and break apart when lifted off the backing. The pressfix do not come away from the paper so you can see exactly where they need to line up. The writing on the paper does not exactly match the transfer. What do people paint on to save old transfers? What is the solution to the press fix ones?

2CDFEB7B-716C-4447-9408-9343085223A8.jpeg.5c5d3a205100bf1368610d76e3caf952.jpeg

many thanks richard 

 

Waterslide - old and cracked.

 

You need this - https://www.models2u.co.uk/contents/en-uk/p8449_micro-liquid-decal-film.html?gclid=Cj0KCQiAj9iBBhCJARIsAE9qRtAjiPMAiGYpaVeCiCstWcVXB_iVNJ1CnBI0W-cjyQAmkaP5zl8JzRgaAoYXEALw_wcB

 

Paint it over the transfer whilst still on the sheet, and allow to dry.

 

The transfer should now work as intended but, if not, apply another coat of the liquid to the sheet.

 

John Isherwood.

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4 hours ago, 60027Merlin said:

Another Hornby A2/2 surfacing this time done up to suit its last 16 or so months.

 

776992107_A2.260501CockotheNorth(4).JPG.8807970c8fddde80d5ae4fa6efaab7a3.JPG

 

That's beautifully done, Eric. Is there any evidence of A2/2.s in Scotland after the transfer south?. I struggle to justify mine north of Newcastle, not that it stops me...

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1 hour ago, Chamby said:

 

Hi Richard.  Your photo suggests that you are cutting through the full depth of support paper when using the transfers.  With HMRS transfers, the instructions advise scoring round the transfer with a sharp knife and lifting the tissue layer off the backing card... if you do this, the tissue is transparent and locating the transfer on the model is a doddle.   (I discovered this the hard way too!).  Lift the transfers like this:

 

IMG_4352.jpg.29502c72c3e15ea1afe4973480db4b88.jpg

 

Hope this helps?

 

Phil.

I'd assumed in my earlier remarks that Richard and all others were doing the above, as per the instructions. Slight moistening of just that thin tissue layer that lifts off the card with each individual item is still of benefit for positioning the transfer in some situations, as the tissue becomes much more transparent when even slightly damp.

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15 minutes ago, rowanj said:

That's beautifully done, Eric. Is there any evidence of A2/2.s in Scotland after the transfer south?. I struggle to justify mine north of Newcastle, not that it stops me...

 

The three shedded at York (60501/2/3) were occasional visitors to The Waverley and Haymarket Shed during the 50s and 1960. However the other three from New England were highly unlikely to reach here.

 

Now you can safely go for all three!

 

Eric

 

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6 hours ago, 60027Merlin said:

Another Hornby A2/2 surfacing this time done up to suit its last 16 or so months.

 

776992107_A2.260501CockotheNorth(4).JPG.8807970c8fddde80d5ae4fa6efaab7a3.JPG

 

Hi Eric

 

Your A2/2 60501 looks fantastic, how did you manage to darken the green livery which is a massive improvement on the Hornby factory livery?

 

Regards

 

David

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5 hours ago, 60027Merlin said:

Another Hornby A2/2 surfacing this time done up to suit its last 16 or so months.

 

776992107_A2.260501CockotheNorth(4).JPG.8807970c8fddde80d5ae4fa6efaab7a3.JPG

 

Eric,

 

I like that look, particularly the colour which is much improved. Is that just varnish/ T cut and weathering or did you respray it? also, how did you do the jiggle in the ejector pipe?

 

Andy

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3 hours ago, Chamby said:

 

Hi Richard.  Your photo suggests that you are cutting through the full depth of support paper when using the transfers.  With HMRS transfers, the instructions advise scoring round the transfer with a sharp knife and lifting the tissue layer off the backing card... if you do this, the tissue is transparent and locating the transfer on the model is a doddle.   (I discovered this the hard way too!).  Lift the transfers like this:

 

IMG_4352.jpg.29502c72c3e15ea1afe4973480db4b88.jpg

 

Hope this helps?

 

Phil.

I had looked to do this but there does not seem to be this mid layer before the paper, to be able to lift them. I might try the wetting or shaving the paper so it gets more see through. 
thank you for all the advice from everyone.

richard 

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3 hours ago, rowanj said:

That's beautifully done, Eric. Is there any evidence of A2/2.s in Scotland after the transfer south?. I struggle to justify mine north of Newcastle, not that it stops me...

Hi

 

As Eric has already confirmed the first three members of the  A2/2 class were all shedded at York 50A and did visit the Edinburgh area in the late 1950’s and 1960.

 

I do have photographs showing 60502 and 60503 on Haymarket MPD in 1959 & 1960.

 

And an undated photo of 60501 also in Edinburgh area with early tender crest so I assume the mid 1950’s

 

Regards

 

David

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5 hours ago, cctransuk said:

 

Waterslide - old and cracked.

 

You need this - https://www.models2u.co.uk/contents/en-uk/p8449_micro-liquid-decal-film.html?gclid=Cj0KCQiAj9iBBhCJARIsAE9qRtAjiPMAiGYpaVeCiCstWcVXB_iVNJ1CnBI0W-cjyQAmkaP5zl8JzRgaAoYXEALw_wcB

 

Paint it over the transfer whilst still on the sheet, and allow to dry.

 

The transfer should now work as intended but, if not, apply another coat of the liquid to the sheet.

 

John Isherwood.

Thanks for this, this might be just the answer to my problem. 
richard 

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On 23/02/2021 at 21:33, davidw said:

Would you know if any v2's were still in black (other than grime) by 1960?

 

On 24/02/2021 at 09:11, Tony Wright said:

Though I don't know for sure, I'd be surprised if any V2s were still in black (officially) by 1960. Certainly, in Bytham's set year (1958) there would still be a few in BR lined black, all with the early totem (there'd be some in green carrying the early totem as well). 

 

I thought I'd read about this somewhere, as I quite fancy a black one myself, and have now found an answer in the RCTS 'Green Book'.  Apparently 60843 was the last V2 in black, when it went into works for overhaul in August 1959.

 

In 'Working Steam: Gresley V2s' (Gavin Morrison) there is a picture of 60855 (at Wellingborough, of all places!) in green livery with the original BR emblem on the tender.  I don't know whether this was the only one, but the Green Book says painting V2s green started in December 1956 and the late emblem was introduced in March 1957.

 

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22 minutes ago, 31A said:

 

 

I thought I'd read about this somewhere, as I quite fancy a black one myself, and have now found an answer in the RCTS 'Green Book'.  Apparently 60843 was the last V2 in black, when it went into works for overhaul in August 1959.

 

In 'Working Steam: Gresley V2s' (Gavin Morrison) there is a picture of 60855 (at Wellingborough, of all places!) in green livery with the original BR emblem on the tender.  I don't know whether this was the only one, but the Green Book says painting V2s green started in December 1956 and the late emblem was introduced in March 1957.

 

According to Yeadon vol 4 there were 11 which had the early emblem in green livery including 60884. This info is in a caption of a picture of said engine on p42.

Edited by thegreenhowards
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1 hour ago, Tony Wright said:

The old V2 given to me by Jesse Sim has now been 'finished'. 

 

1329569531_JesseSimV204.jpg.2058cf7f03b705c75cf78fee2f3ed888.jpg

 

The vivid green has long gone and I've now numbered/lined it; yes, I know the valances should be lined, but transfer lining fights all the way with this, and it was often scuffed off in service. Anyway, weathering is still to come. 

 

This loco is something of a paradox. It's certainly a V2 (and far superior to the much newer - though soon to be superseded - Bachmann offering), but the mechanism is arcane. Painting the visible parts of the Jepson motor (not the commutator, of course) will disguise it a little. However, a Comet set of frames (which include brakes) with a can motor/gearbox combo will be the eventual 'fix'. That said, this really goes like stink, and on a layout, at high speed?

 

Who originally built it, no one knows, though it's well-made. 

 

Shots in action on LB later....................... 

Gee wiz you don’t muck around, she looks terrific. I’m glad it’s gone somewhere wanted, I could have finished it off but I’m concentrating on builds that aren’t RTR. Which I think is smart, exploit what the RTR market has to offer and kit build the rest. 

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16 hours ago, thegreenhowards said:

Eric,

 

I like that look, particularly the colour which is much improved. Is that just varnish/ T cut and weathering or did you respray it? also, how did you do the jiggle in the ejector pipe?

 

Andy

 

Andy & David,

 

I re-lined the boiler and tender to cover the red/black/red lining. The cab lining was not too bad so I left it on.

 

The ejector pipe comes off easily and I made a new one from .9 mm wire which fitted in to the body OK.

 

I dry brushed matt black and BR dull green on quite a bit of it and once i was happy with that it got a coat of Klear. A day or so later when I had more time I gave it a slight dusting here and there with Carrs weathering powders. The smokebox was painted with Humbrol metallic black and also dirtied up a bit.

 

There are no definitive steps to follow as I just make it up as I go along and on another loco I could have made use of a few other paints/powders. As I am doing a painting/weathering job if things are not looking as I imagined then I just ad lib it to try to get there. Not very scientific I know but hopefully you will get the drift.

 

Eric

  

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