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Wright writes.....


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1 hour ago, Clive Mortimore said:

With all this talk about BR green recently, is the bright green Hymek a Hornby model?

 

Worcester shed (pjs,0019)

Photo from, geoff7918 Flickr page.  Copright Geoff Dowling & John Whitehouse

My guess is they are probably identical but the nearer one may be a tad grubby. Surprising what sunlight hitting two similar objects at angles differing by just a few degrees can make to their comparative appearance.

 

The amount falling on the nearest Hymek and the Brush 4 may also be influenced by the large building on the right, too, with the furthest Hymek being unaffected. 

 

John

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1 hour ago, Tony Wright said:

Good morning Gordon,

 

Though not as fine as Alan Gibson (or Markits) equivalents, the Hornby bogie wheels on the latest A2/2 are not bad. I'll not be changing them on mine.

 

Bevel on LNER bogie wheels? It's not very pronounced, but I'm not sure.

 

I use Markits LNER bogie wheels, anyway. If you go down that route (01923 249711), Mark Arscott makes exactly the right 3' 2" 10-spoke LNER bogie wheels. I use them because they look right, they're always true round and run perfectly.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

 

P.S. HAPPY KNIGHT is an A2, and Hornby doesn't make one.......................

 

Thanks for that Tony, as Wizard Models only had one pair in stock with further deliveries unknown I have left a message with Alan Gibson direct, so I suspect a call to Mark may be the better option.

 

Apologies. You're right they are both Bachmann. Just different size boxes which threw me.....

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My guess is they are probably identical but the nearer one may be a tad grubby. Surprising what sunlight hitting two similar objects at angles differing by just a few degrees can make to their comparative appearance.

 

The amount falling on the nearest Hymek and the Brush 4 may also be influenced by the large building on the right, too, with the furthest Hymek being unaffected. 

 

It's for that reason and the fact that we all see colours slightly differently, I always wonder why so many people get het up by slight variations they perceive they can see.

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21 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

Only three books to review for BRM this month.................

 

1459901979_AlnmouthtoBerwick.jpg.698d2c70c4ca5c997bfb9db1b150ba33.jpg

 

1133706164_LNER4-6-0Locomotives.jpg.93d8f1a3e8b8bb6cf368bda6a35f70a6.jpg

 

A massive tome this one, and fascinating. Essential for all LNER/BR modellers I'd say.

 

306269448_ModellingTheWelshNarrowGauge.jpg.08f25f34751cdd935f62bb2e4c8a4eb7.jpg

 

 

Oh dear , Tony ,

       Yet more books to save up for . I little thought , when steam finished on B.R. that we would still be buying books about them in 2021 ; & still going round in circles about Gresley & Thompson!

                                                         Best Wishes ,

                                                                     Ray . 

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Recently bought the On the Right Track DVDs on Loco kit building that you present.  Very informative and it's great to be able to watch someone demonstrating the techniques in a way that a book can't show you.

Hope to have a go soon myself with an SE finecast kit!

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1 hour ago, MonsalDan said:

Recently bought the On the Right Track DVDs on Loco kit building that you present.  Very informative and it's great to be able to watch someone demonstrating the techniques in a way that a book can't show you.

Hope to have a go soon myself with an SE finecast kit!

Thanks Dan,

 

If you ever get stuck in your loco-building, there's always plenty of help on here.....................

 

I've been doing a bit more loco-building today..................

 

1470852500_J307.jpg.6fc58bcddd3317721979c4786acefe5a.jpg

 

After the LRM J3 smokebox wrappers were formed using my rolling bars, they were soldered to main boiler unit. A cocktail stick aids alignment and florists' soft-iron wire holds everything in place while soldering takes place (easier than mutilating fingertips!). 

 

407668840_J308.jpg.582acf08a048d0e57dc004401d97a823.jpg

 

I'd formed and soldered the cab in place before soldering the boiler unit in position (much in the way of cleaning up still being necessary). 

 

This is a dinky little thing, and the fit of parts is excellent.

 

I'm sure I've built one of these before, an account appearing in BRM not long after the kit came out (does anyone remember this?). I think it's the one that now runs on Peterborough North (I've been asked to build a D2 for that layout as well). 

 

 

Edited by Tony Wright
typo error
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2 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

 

407668840_J308.jpg.582acf08a048d0e57dc004401d97a823.jpg

 

 

 

 

Hi Tony,

is there something odd happening with the cab's beading?  Its not really for a GW modeller to comment on Sir's LNER modelling but in this case, and having built the LRM J3 previously, I believe the beading on the bottom outer corner of the J3's window should be squared off and the top outer corner radiused up over the roof, but on your model this seems to in reverse.    

 

Otherwise...... nice going.

 

Frank    

 

 

Edited by Chuffer Davies
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15 hours ago, MonsalDan said:

Recently bought the On the Right Track DVDs on Loco kit building that you present.  Very informative and it's great to be able to watch someone demonstrating the techniques in a way that a book can't show you.

Hope to have a go soon myself with an SE finecast kit!

100% agree. For reasons I wont go into, i was really struggling with kit building, despite having built many over the years. I was on the verge of quitting until i was presented with these DVD's by a friend. As you say, being able to actually watch Tony at work unlocked my mental blocks and set me back on course. I will always be grateful.

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11 hours ago, Chuffer Davies said:

Hi Tony,

is there something odd happening with the cab's beading?  Its not really for a GW modeller to comment on Sir's LNER modelling but in this case, and having built the LRM J3 previously, I believe the beading on the bottom outer corner of the J3's window should be squared off and the top outer corner radiused up over the roof, but on your model this seems to in reverse.    

 

Otherwise...... nice going.

 

Frank    

 

 

Thanks Frank,

 

A classic case of using what's provided in the kit for the purpose without checking. I never learn! 

 

The top corner can be radiused with a file, and I can build up the bottom one with solder. 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

 

 

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15 minutes ago, Denbridge said:

100% agree. For reasons I wont go into, i was really struggling with kit building, despite having built many over the years. I was on the verge of quitting until i was presented with these DVD's by a friend. As you say, being able to actually watch Tony at work unlocked my mental blocks and set me back on course. I will always be grateful.

The Right Track DVDs were an unprecedented success. 

 

Despite my presenting three and a half of the first four, they were so well made by Chris and Wendy Walsh (Activity Media) that all those who bought them (who commented to me) were delighted. 

 

There was an amusing consequence of the first one going on sale (at one Doncaster Show - 2004?). Activity Media sold them direct, but Warners also took them for sale. Nobody at the time knew how well (or badly) they'd go, so, I think, 100 of Pt. 1 were taken to the show. I had to leave early on the Saturday to drive down to Sandy to collect another 200. They'd all gone by the end of Sunday! 

 

After that, by getting the likes of Ian Rathbone, Barry Norman, Norman Solomon, Geoff Taylor, Nigel Burkin and others on board, the series just flew. 

 

I'd seen other productions beforehand, but many were dire. Some presenters just muttered on, often in imperfect (colloquial) English. In one, the guy (Eh, by gum!) started off by building an O Gauge LMS 4-6-0, obviously got flustered and out of his depth, so concluded by showing us a part-finished 0-6-0T! The camera work was dreadful as well. 

 

I think the Right Track DVDs were 'ideal' in their time and place. They wouldn't be made today - all three locos I made in Pts. 1 and 2 are now available as excellent RTR models, and plagiarism/copying on social media would probably render them unsaleable. 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

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Morning Tony 

I don’t know if you buy Steam World but this months has a photo selection on Stoke bank , an interesting photo of the Midland Pullman passing the site of Little Bytham station in 1965.

Another article is about your first train spotting memories, the photo at Manchester Victoria of the L&Y banker took me right back to my first real memory of sight and sound of steam loco.

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2 hours ago, D.Platt said:

Morning Tony 

I don’t know if you buy Steam World but this months has a photo selection on Stoke bank , an interesting photo of the Midland Pullman passing the site of Little Bytham station in 1965.

Another article is about your first train spotting memories, the photo at Manchester Victoria of the L&Y banker took me right back to my first real memory of sight and sound of steam loco.

Plus that photo of a clean lined black V2 in 1957 :)

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The way you can build track Gordon you will have no trouble building the DJH J50 , it will make a pleasant change.

looking at your Eastwood layout encouraged me into making my own points, that’s what is so good with these forums, always something new to pickup on.

Dennis

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4 hours ago, D.Platt said:

Morning Tony 

I don’t know if you buy Steam World but this months has a photo selection on Stoke bank , an interesting photo of the Midland Pullman passing the site of Little Bytham station in 1965.

Another article is about your first train spotting memories, the photo at Manchester Victoria of the L&Y banker took me right back to my first real memory of sight and sound of steam loco.

Afternoon Dennis,

 

I don't usually see Steam World, but I'll look out for it. Thanks.

 

I've not seen many shots of the Midland Pullman on the ECML, but it was tested as a potential replacement for the loco-hauled Pullmans in operation at the time. It 'failed' on two counts - it wasn't fast enough and it wasn't comfortable enough in comparison. 

 

Manchester Vic'? Ah, yes - wheezing ex-L&Y 0-6-0s shoving trains up to Miles Platting. Happy days! 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

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5 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

The Right Track DVDs were an unprecedented success. 

 

Despite my presenting three and a half of the first four, they were so well made by Chris and Wendy Walsh (Activity Media) that all those who bought them (who commented to me) were delighted. 

 

There was an amusing consequence of the first one going on sale (at one Doncaster Show - 2004?). Activity Media sold them direct, but Warners also took them for sale. Nobody at the time knew how well (or badly) they'd go, so, I think, 100 of Pt. 1 were taken to the show. I had to leave early on the Saturday to drive down to Sandy to collect another 200. They'd all gone by the end of Sunday! 

 

After that, by getting the likes of Ian Rathbone, Barry Norman, Norman Solomon, Geoff Taylor, Nigel Burkin and others on board, the series just flew. 

 

I'd seen other productions beforehand, but many were dire. Some presenters just muttered on, often in imperfect (colloquial) English. In one, the guy (Eh, by gum!) started off by building an O Gauge LMS 4-6-0, obviously got flustered and out of his depth, so concluded by showing us a part-finished 0-6-0T! The camera work was dreadful as well. 

 

I think the Right Track DVDs were 'ideal' in their time and place. They wouldn't be made today - all three locos I made in Pts. 1 and 2 are now available as excellent RTR models, and plagiarism/copying on social media would probably render them unsaleable. 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

I agree - I learnt an awful lot from those DVDs before I knew you Tony. In fact on one of them a certain Mr Tony Wright convinced me to switch to DCC!

 

Regards

 

Andy

 

 

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48 minutes ago, thegreenhowards said:

I agree - I learnt an awful lot from those DVDs before I knew you Tony. In fact on one of them a certain Mr Tony Wright convinced me to switch to DCC!

 

Regards

 

Andy

 

 

I was surprised not be nominated for an Oscar for my performance on the Right Track DCC DVDs, Andy. 

 

People thought I was convinced of the merits of it!

 

Regards,

 

Tony.

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30 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

I've been speaking with Dave Ellis (ex- of South Eastern Finecast) this afternoon. He's now turning his attention to the development of the old Nu-Cast range, with new etched chassis and improved castings.

 

Clearly, there's little mileage in reintroducing loco kits such as the B1, V2 and Q6, because of the dominance of RTR, but three which cropped up were the B16/2, B16/3 and K2. 

 

564703116_Nu-CastB163.jpg.bbed2e8704bcac496db8a9ac1b14d312.jpg

 

I built this Nu-Cast B16/3 a couple of years ago (acquiring the bits from the late Roy Jackson's estate). Geoff Haynes painted it. As far as I'm aware this type is on no RTR radar. 

 

1052593171_Nu-CastK2.jpg.d39f5c97a9d81b03125b03dc1565d56d.jpg

 

I built this Nu-Cast K2 some little time ago for Ian Wilson. Again, it's painted by Geoff Haynes. Another one on no RTR horizon as far as I'm aware. 

 

I'm sure there'll be mileage in the reintroduction of these kits. The K2 is certainly easier to build than the LRM example, especially the chassis. 

 

If anyone is interested, may I please suggest their getting in touch with Dave Ellis? He can be contacted at           daveellis@gmail.com                            

 

If they are reintroduced, I'll be test-building them and writing the instructions............................

 

 

Tiny,

 

I’m sure there would be a market for both assuming no RTR comes along to ruin the party. The other obvious one from the Nucast range from an Eastern perspective is the A5. All three go for reasonable prices on eBay.

 

Andy

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33 minutes ago, thegreenhowards said:

Tiny,

 

I’m sure there would be a market for both assuming no RTR comes along to ruin the party. The other obvious one from the Nucast range from an Eastern perspective is the A5. All three go for reasonable prices on eBay.

 

Andy

Thanks Andy,

 

I've never built a Nu-Cast A5 (though I acquired a body from the late Roy Jackson's estate, for which I built a chassis and painted). I'm sure there'd be an interest in it, too. 

 

When you say 'reasonable' prices, what are those, please?

 

I know Dave likes to keep his kits (ex-wheels/motor/gearbox) under £100.00. Do some of the kits mentioned go for more than that?

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

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22 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

Thanks Andy,

 

I've never built a Nu-Cast A5 (though I acquired a body from the late Roy Jackson's estate, for which I built a chassis and painted). I'm sure there'd be an interest in it, too. 

 

When you say 'reasonable' prices, what are those, please?

 

I know Dave likes to keep his kits (ex-wheels/motor/gearbox) under £100.00. Do some of the kits mentioned go for more than that?

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

It depends what’s in the kit (wheels, motor, etc) and whether it’s been started. I’d say that whereas an unstated mint V2 with no wheels and motor would go for £50-£60, an equivalent B16/ A5/ K2 would be around the £100 mark, sometimes a little more. Some sellers try it on with much higher prices but I just ignore them so I don’t know if they sell. If anything, I’d say the B16 is less popular than the other two - is there a known issue with the kit? But it varies from auction to auction so please don't take this as gospel - I’m happy to be corrected if others have a view.

 

Andy

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Had a good day and the J50 chassis is coming together, but I knew there may be questions....;)

 

All the bearings are in, but when I came to fit the Markits wheels, none of the axles fitted easily into the back of the wheels. I understand they have to be a tight fit, so wondered if some lead in is required to enable the square shank of the axle to pull into the square hole of the wheel.

 

Should I scrape away the edge of the square hole in the back of the wheel to create a lead in for the axle or take a small file to the axle to take off the sharp square edge?

 

Grateful for your guidance...

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10 minutes ago, gordon s said:

Had a good day and the J50 chassis is coming together, but I knew there may be questions....;)

 

All the bearings are in, but when I came to fit the Markits wheels, none of the axles fitted easily into the back of the wheels. I understand they have to be a tight fit, so wondered if some lead in is required to enable the square shank of the axle to pull into the square hole of the wheel.

 

Should I scrape away the edge of the square hole in the back of the wheel to create a lead in for the axle or take a small file to the axle to take off the sharp square edge?

 

Grateful for your guidance...

 

Just a couple of file strokes or gently scraping on the back of the wheel should be all that's needed. No need to touch the axle.

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