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Wright writes.....


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10 hours ago, Tony Teague said:

 

Even on the Southern, and after two rebuilds the T14's were considered sluggish, and relegated to secondary passenger duties, so despite being an SR loco enthusiast I think one might have to suspend belief more than a little, to see a Paddlebox heading The Talisman! :o

Interesting, though, Tony. 

 

I saw 'The Talisman'(s) on many occasions, and it was always a Gresley A3, A4 or Peppercorn A1 on it (latterly a diesel flop in the form of an EE Type 4, but, eventually, and terrifically, a 'Deltic'). Being born just over a year before Nationalisation, I doubt if I'd have ever seen a T14, anywhere.

 

Requiring an average speed of around a mile a minute between the two capitals, any smaller 4-6-0 would have struggled, but the Bulleids would have romped away with the eight/nine car Talisman sets.

 

Regards,

 

Tony.  

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10 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

Even on the Southern, and after two rebuilds the T14's were considered sluggish

 

I've been looking for a picture of the one we run at Ormesby Hall, which is in original form and can't find one.   The Hall is still closed so I can't get in to take one of it.   I can confirm that the model performs just like the real thing - it's very heavy and has relatively little room for a motor so it's a battle to get anything beefy enough to move the loco into it, let alone pull any kind of decent train.   I think there have been three attempts at rebuilding the chassis, the last by Peter Simmerson which has been the most successful.  However any more than 4 or 5 carriages and it's down to walking pace all round the layout.

 

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45 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

Interesting, though, Tony. 

 

I saw 'The Talisman'(s) on many occasions, and it was always a Gresley A3, A4 or Peppercorn A1 on it (latterly a diesel flop in the form of an EE Type 4, but, eventually, and terrifically, a 'Deltic'). Being born just over a year before Nationalisation, I doubt if I'd have ever seen a T14, anywhere.

 

Requiring an average speed of around a mile a minute between the two capitals, any smaller 4-6-0 would have struggled, but the Bulleids would have romped away with the eight/nine car Talisman sets.

 

Regards,

 

Tony.  

Even the smaller sort, I'd think, which regularly worked 10+ on their home turf, though I always suspected that the "regular" MN substitutes came from an elite group. However, their lack of water scoops would have necessitated at least one water stop.

 

The load/speed should also have been within the abilities of a V2, if the coal capacity of the 6-wheel tender was considered adequate.

 

John

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6 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

 

Fortunately, and by his own admission, Norman cannot build locos. So, how did I 'pay' for these wonderful baseboards? Well, I bought the wood (not even Norman fells his own trees and puts them through his own sawmill), and built the following for him, among others, in exchange.....................................

 

What does all the above show? The benefits of working in a team I suppose, members of which can all contribute something (other than just money) to a project.

 

 

We are in total agreement; I could probably do all of those things if I tried, but undoubtedly, in a number of areas it would not be to the standard of others. On the money vs. bartering issue, I take perhaps a slightly different perspective, in that if one is time poor, because of working or other commitments, then excachanging one's (non-modelling) skills for money and using that to acquire help where one's own skills are lacking - or perhaps 'sub standard' - does not seem wrong or less good to me; indeed, that approach must keep a whole army of professional or semi-professional model builders in business! So there are areas where I will remain unashamedly a 'cheque book modeller'. :D

 

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4 hours ago, Jesse Sim said:

Another eBay restoration complete, the B5 is ready for some weathering, bit of a bitsa this thing is. Whoever built it couldn’t put a kit together to save his life, I’m very certain he’s mixed two versions of the locomotive together, either from not studying photos or he just didn’t care. She really needs a complete rebuild, which I will eventually do at one point later in life, but due to my limited number of suitable pre-grouping locos she will have to do. For now. However, I think I have succeeded in showing a B5 on the eve of her rebuild, which 5185 received in 1935, warts and all. 
 

 

 

BB285BB7-1B68-475F-8814-59C4DABBC511.jpeg

Don't have too much of the 'Striding Chap' whilst modelling!

Looks good to me, but I know very little of NE stuff.

Edited by andytrains
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7 hours ago, Jesse Sim said:

Another eBay restoration complete, the B5 is ready for some weathering, bit of a bitsa this thing is. Whoever built it couldn’t put a kit together to save his life, I’m very certain he’s mixed two versions of the locomotive together, either from not studying photos or he just didn’t care. She really needs a complete rebuild, which I will eventually do at one point later in life, but due to my limited number of suitable pre-grouping locos she will have to do. For now. However, I think I have succeeded in showing a B5 on the eve of her rebuild, which 5185 received in 1935, warts and all. 
 

 

 

BB285BB7-1B68-475F-8814-59C4DABBC511.jpeg

Jesse

You are right, it looks to have the higher pitched 4'9" superheated boiler but with its original boiler fittings. The main thing you would need to do is replace the chimney (two options flowerpot or later short Robinson style), dome and safety valves to make it more correct. If I recall correctly (?) in order to build the original version the builder should have removed material from the base of the smokebox and firebox to get the correct pitch for the boiler, as that's how Millholme designed the kit. I've still got an unbuilt version but can't check as I'm in Qld for 10 days at the moment. I built my first one in 1987 as 5187 with superheated boiler.

Andrew

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34 minutes ago, Woodcock29 said:

Jesse

You are right, it looks to have the higher pitched 4'9" superheated boiler but with its original boiler fittings. The main thing you would need to do is replace the chimney (two options flowerpot or later short Robinson style), dome and safety valves to make it more correct. If I recall correctly (?) in order to build the original version the builder should have removed material from the base of the smokebox and firebox to get the correct pitch for the boiler, as that's how Millholme designed the kit. I've still got an unbuilt version but can't check as I'm in Qld for 10 days at the moment. I built my first one in 1987 as 5187 with superheated boiler.

Andrew

I agree, as I said she’ll need a rebuild, but I’ll source the boiler and parts needed. One day she’ll get done at the moment shell

do. 

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3 hours ago, andytrains said:

Don't have too much of the 'Striding Chap' whilst modelling!

Looks good to me, but I know very little of NE stuff.

It’ll be for when I rebuild it that I’ll need it! 
 

also it’s a ex GCR loco not NE 

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16 minutes ago, Jesse Sim said:

It’ll be for when I rebuild it that I’ll need it! 
 

also it’s a ex GCR loco not NE 

Sorry, GC, not quite as bad as I have a D11/2 and a part built Q1, (0-8-0T), although technically they are LNER.

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On 21/04/2021 at 14:14, 96701 said:

Shouldn't the trap on the siding be reverse?

Being pedantic, Phil, it is reversed but should be normal.

 

On 21/04/2021 at 16:45, Tony Wright said:

It should Phil,

 

When Norman Solomon was making all the Bytham scenic-side trackwork (using the prototype trackplan), both of us forgot to note the trap point protecting the Down slow/Down north lay-by. Thus, at the initial stage, it wasn't made. Norman made it retrospectively, but only as a dummy; only really noticed from angles such as the picture in question was taken from.

 

I live with it!

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

A wise decision. All my trap points are dummies. I get enough derailments without encouraging more.

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2 hours ago, Jesse Sim said:

Following on from my post about the B5 here she is after a bit of weathering. 
 

I also took the opportunity to finish of the GN milk brake and re number a C1 appropriate for the milk train, as well as giving her a nice hard working look through weathering. 
 

Sorry for hi jacking your thread Tony. 
 

Can I ask a question also?

 

What’s a good colour or mix of colours to weather the rods and wheels?

 

D8166093-580F-4725-8BD6-4FBC53365A27.jpeg

EA2C4DC9-1AAB-43BE-AD04-A69E45C596F4.jpeg

All look good!

 

Colours for weathering motion? Matt black/brown enamel.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

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6 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

All look good!

 

Colours for weathering motion? Matt black/brown enamel.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

I use Humbrol 29 Matt Dark Earth but I don't stir it up (as if...). Putting a pigment-poor coat on lets it accumulate round joints and pivots, and gives a nice oily-looking sheen.

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5 minutes ago, St Enodoc said:

I use Humbrol 29 Matt Dark Earth but I don't stir it up (as if...). Putting a pigment-poor coat on lets it accumulate round joints and pivots, and gives a nice oily-looking sheen.

I generally use a thin mix of Humbrol 85 satin black and 186 brown and sometimes finish off with a bit of gloss varnish to make it gleam.

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30 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

All look good!

 

Colours for weathering motion? Matt black/brown enamel.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

Cheers Tony,

 

although I’ve just noticed some of the numbers have broken off during the weathering process. I’ll fix them. 

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2 hours ago, St Enodoc said:

I use Humbrol 29 Matt Dark Earth but I don't stir it up (as if...). Putting a pigment-poor coat on lets it accumulate round joints and pivots, and gives a nice oily-looking sheen.

I do something similar but add various amounts of 53 gunmetal metalilc.

Ironically I find that Hornby motion needs a wash to take away the metal look and than some dirt mixed with metallic to bring it back. Freight locos tend to get something darker, so I add lots of 401 dirty black.

Bernard

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Not done any for a while but I have used copper in with the matt black and a bit of brown in the past, the copper catches the light giving the effect of light on wet oil on the prototype.

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9 hours ago, Jesse Sim said:

Following on from my post about the B5 here she is after a bit of weathering. 
 

I also took the opportunity to finish of the GN milk brake and re number a C1 appropriate for the milk train, as well as giving her a nice hard working look through weathering. 
 

Sorry for hi jacking your thread Tony. 
 

Can I ask a question also?

 

What’s a good colour or mix of colours to weather the rods and wheels?

 

D8166093-580F-4725-8BD6-4FBC53365A27.jpeg

EA2C4DC9-1AAB-43BE-AD04-A69E45C596F4.jpeg

 

For the rods, try a mix of Humbrol Metalcote Polished Steel, and no 9 Gloss Tan. Brush it on, then at least 24 hours later, polish it up with a cotton bud. It really brings it to life. For wheels, I tend to give a light spray over with a similar mix of what I have used on the body, specifically a mid brown and matt black, mixed 1:2, and plenty of thinners.

 

 

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Loco and tender frames, bogies and bogie and tender wheels I use a mix of Humbrol Matt Black (33), Gunmetal (53) and Leather (62), about 3 parts black, 2 parts leather and 1 part of gunmetal.

 

Driving wheels I often paint differently especially on locos with outside valve gear as they often look shiny in pictures, presumably due to the oil thrown around (sometimes more so the leading and middle wheels than the rear driving wheels on a 4-6-0 for example).  To show this, I paint driving wheels with a 50:50 mix of Satin Black (85) and Metalcote Gunmetal (27004) with a little Leather (62); this can then be buffed when dry to produce an oily sheen.  I use the same mixture to show oily deposits around axle boxes and on buffer heads etc.

 

Rods and valve gear, I tend to use a 50:50 mix of Gloss Dark Brown (10) and Satin Black (85) applied quite thinly.  If doing the rods of a 'clean' loco I do exactly what @GH in EM and O has just said above.

 

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7 hours ago, GH in EM and O said:

 

For the rods, try a mix of Humbrol Metalcote Polished Steel, and no 9 Gloss Tan. Brush it on, then at least 24 hours later, polish it up with a cotton bud. It really brings it to life. For wheels, I tend to give a light spray over with a similar mix of what I have used on the body, specifically a mid brown and matt black, mixed 1:2, and plenty of thinners.

 

 

I thought of using the same mix I did on the body but thought it might have a bit more brown in it. Thanks Geoff. 

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