Headstock Posted August 31, 2021 Share Posted August 31, 2021 (edited) 3 hours ago, davidw said: Good use of an old coach. How did you. Remove the moulded battery boxes? Good Question, that part was over twenty years ago. I had to dig out an unadulterated Bachmann carriage to see what I did. The battery boxes are not low relief, even though they fill up all the space between the queen posts then viewed from the front. Why they bothered with the 3d element when it can't be seen, I do not know? I had to removed this first from the back of the angle iron, by drilling out the underside of the upside down battery box. I could then get some cutters and a saw blade in and remove the back of the box. I could then remove the rest with a craft knife, cutting up to the back of the angle iron and the floor. This could be broken free with a pair of flat nosed pliers along the line of the cut. Fig 1 Yellow drill red cut. What remained was the flat front of the battery box embedder in the angle iron. I drilled out the area vertically and parallel with the queen post and then cut out the remainder by scoring along the join between the lower angle iron and the sole bar. Once this was removed, it was necessary to clean up with a craft knife, files and wet and dry. Fig 2 Yellow drill, Red cut. Fig 3 The finished result. Edited August 31, 2021 by Headstock 10 1 3 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidw Posted August 31, 2021 Share Posted August 31, 2021 1 hour ago, Headstock said: Good Question, that part was over twenty years ago. I had to dig out an unadulterated Bachmann carriage to see what I did. The battery boxes are not low relief, even though they fill up all the space between the queen posts then viewed from the front. Why they bothered with the 3d element when it can't be seen, I do not know? I had to removed this first from the back of the angle iron, by drilling out the underside of the upside down battery box. I could then get some cutters and a saw blade in and remove the back of the box. I could then remove the rest with a craft knife, cutting up to the back of the angle iron and the floor. This could be broken free with a pair of flat nosed pliers along the line of the cut. Fig 1 Yellow drill red cut. What remained was the flat front of the battery box embedder in the angle iron. I drilled out the area vertically and parallel with the queen post and then cut out the remainder by scoring along the join between the lower angle iron and the sole bar. Once this was removed, it was necessary to clean up with a craft knife, files and wet and dry. Fig 2 Yellow drill, Red cut. Fig 3 The finished result. Thanks for the reply. I've resided a number of old tooling Thompsons. The underframe continues to let them down. The mods you've done are excellent. Thanks for the comprehensive answer. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr Al Posted August 31, 2021 Share Posted August 31, 2021 8 hours ago, Atso said: Hello Tony and friends! A bit of excitement at my end as I've just received the etches from some artwork I designed! Out of interest, did you get a company to etch for you, and if so who that would be? I've a small etching project I've had in the back of my mind for a while.... Cheers, Alan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Headstock Posted August 31, 2021 Share Posted August 31, 2021 7 hours ago, westernviscount said: I am glad it isn't just me who has been disappointed by the wheels in the new parkside range. I raised the matter on my kitbuilding thread and was slightly worried I had commited blasphemy!! My apologies, I missed your post first time around. I'm a little concerned about all the 'proper' wheel manufactures these days. Without them, stock variety could be reduced by two thirds. There would be little point in making anything and most of us would be reduced to being consumers, collectors and Wishlisters only. There are some much more reliable RTR wheelsets available these days, at least for rolling stock. However, even the most modern RTR wheelsets tend to be slightly overscale and can cause all sorts of clearance issues. 1 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atso Posted August 31, 2021 Share Posted August 31, 2021 2 hours ago, Dr Al said: Out of interest, did you get a company to etch for you, and if so who that would be? I've a small etching project I've had in the back of my mind for a while.... Cheers, Alan Hi Alan, I use PPD. https://www.ppdltd.com/ Hope this helps. 1 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atso Posted August 31, 2021 Share Posted August 31, 2021 8 hours ago, Doncaster Green said: Hi Steve Correct me if I'm wrong, but is the lower left a GNR Dia99 Twin First? Regards John Maybe John Needs a bit (a lot!) of a clean up but it went together more or less as I hoped. 5 1 11 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Wright Posted September 1, 2021 Author Share Posted September 1, 2021 The power of suggestion! This has already gone, without it being seen. Thanks Dave. 9 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScRSG Posted September 1, 2021 Share Posted September 1, 2021 4 hours ago, Tony Wright said: The power of suggestion! This has already gone, without it being seen. Thanks Dave. No surprise there! If I am correct - many Tyne Dock conversions to come! Chas Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike 84C Posted September 1, 2021 Share Posted September 1, 2021 I am exploring the frustrations of signal construction and am finding my files are all a tad large for some of the slots I wish to cut. These are about 1mm width. Who would you go to for suitable tools to do what I want. I've browsed watchmakers supplies and am a little more puzzled than before. The signals were made by Courtney,Stevens & Bailey and are very distinctive! Thanks for any advice it all helps. Micl Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Wright Posted September 1, 2021 Author Share Posted September 1, 2021 Geoff Haynes brought a couple of locos round for photography this morning..................... He built and painted this S & D 0-6-0ST in P4. And painted this O Gauge GWR 4-4-0. He did tell me which class it was.................... 15 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold zr2498 Posted September 1, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 1, 2021 42 minutes ago, Mike 84C said: I am exploring the frustrations of signal construction and am finding my files are all a tad large for some of the slots I wish to cut. These are about 1mm width. Who would you go to for suitable tools to do what I want. I've browsed watchmakers supplies and am a little more puzzled than before. The signals were made by Courtney,Stevens & Bailey and are very distinctive! Thanks for any advice it all helps. Micl Rather expensive (£22 each), but with these ultra thin flat and round files it might be just the job. A 'long term' investment. https://www.metalclay.co.uk/ultra-thin-file-medium-fine-flat/#/ https://www.metalclay.co.uk/ultra-thin-file-medium-fine-round/#/ 1 2 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denbridge Posted September 1, 2021 Share Posted September 1, 2021 10 minutes ago, Tony Wright said: Geoff Haynes brought a couple of locos round for photography this morning..................... He built and painted this S & D 0-6-0ST in P4. And painted this O Gauge GWR 4-4-0. He did tell me which class it was.................... Hello Tony 3361 is a Bulldog. Originally named Edward VII until the plates were removed in 1927. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Tony Wright Posted September 1, 2021 Author Popular Post Share Posted September 1, 2021 (edited) As part of an on-going series of moving images for BRM, I've been illustrating the various motor/gearbox combinations I've used down the years, showing them in action in locos on Little Bytham. Including.................. XO4 and its five-/seven-pole derivatives from MW005, Airfix and Jepson. Direct drives using Mashima motors and Romford gear sets. Branchlines. Ready-made DJH motor/gearbox combos. Smaller DJH combos, this one with the firm's own motors. DJH gearboxes I've made myself with D11/D13 open-framed motors. Markits gearboxes. The original split-chassis V2 nonsense was chucked away! Backwoods Miniatures gearboxes. Portescaps. SEF gear mounts and Mashimas. High Level. Comet. LRM gear mount. And different drives for the same class - Comet and DJH in Comet B1 frames. All have worked very well. The smoothest? Portescap, ready-made DJH, Backwoods Miniatures and High Level (with all the others close). The easiest to install? Portescaps and made-up DJH. The quietest? Ready-made DJHs. The noisiest? Portescaps (though not all). All these (and many more) can be seen in action before long. Edited September 1, 2021 by Tony Wright to add something 23 6 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Wright Posted September 1, 2021 Author Share Posted September 1, 2021 One means of propulsion I forgot to include in my previous post was the direct-drive D11 and Romford gears. Here seen in a 40+ year old scratch-built chassis for a Nu-Cast K2. Old-fashioned, but still going. 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandra Posted September 1, 2021 Share Posted September 1, 2021 3 hours ago, Denbridge said: Hello Tony 3361 is a Bulldog. Originally named Edward VII until the plates were removed in 1927. I’m not convinced that this is a Bulldog. It looks like one of the 6’ 8” 4-4-0s. Certainly 3361 was a Bulldog with 5’ 8” wheels but the wheels on this model look too large. To me it looks like an Atbara for it has the high-stepping appearance of these locos. The distinguishing feature is the height of the splashers. In a Bulldog the springs rise above the top of the splashers but on this model the top of the splashers are clearly above the springs because of the need to clear the larger wheels The model is painted in the post first-war livery of plain green but it still has the small circular cab windows which I think may have disappeared pre-war. I wonder what others think? 2 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denbridge Posted September 1, 2021 Share Posted September 1, 2021 25 minutes ago, sandra said: I’m not convinced that this is a Bulldog. It looks like one of the 6’ 8” 4-4-0s. Certainly 3361 was a Bulldog with 5’ 8” wheels but the wheels on this model look too large. To me it looks like an Atbara for it has the high-stepping appearance of these locos. The distinguishing feature is the height of the splashers. In a Bulldog the springs rise above the top of the splashers but on this model the top of the splashers are clearly above the springs because of the need to clear the larger wheels The model is painted in the post first-war livery of plain green but it still has the small circular cab windows which I think may have disappeared pre-war. I wonder what others think? i thought the same at first glance, but think it is possibly the angle that suggests larger wheels. comparing against prototype photographs shows it is indeed a Bulldog. I agree that in the period depicted, the small round cab windows would probably be plated over. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denbridge Posted September 1, 2021 Share Posted September 1, 2021 31 minutes ago, sandra said: I’m not convinced that this is a Bulldog. It looks like one of the 6’ 8” 4-4-0s. Certainly 3361 was a Bulldog with 5’ 8” wheels but the wheels on this model look too large. To me it looks like an Atbara for it has the high-stepping appearance of these locos. The distinguishing feature is the height of the splashers. In a Bulldog the springs rise above the top of the splashers but on this model the top of the splashers are clearly above the springs because of the need to clear the larger wheels The model is painted in the post first-war livery of plain green but it still has the small circular cab windows which I think may have disappeared pre-war. I wonder what others think? Having fired up my laptop, rather than looking on my phone, I think you are indeed correct. The wheels do look more like 6' 8" suggesting as you say an Atbara. Curious. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium TrevorP1 Posted September 1, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 1, 2021 24 minutes ago, sandra said: I’m not convinced that this is a Bulldog. It looks like one of the 6’ 8” 4-4-0s. Certainly 3361 was a Bulldog with 5’ 8” wheels but the wheels on this model look too large. To me it looks like an Atbara for it has the high-stepping appearance of these locos. The distinguishing feature is the height of the splashers. In a Bulldog the springs rise above the top of the splashers but on this model the top of the splashers are clearly above the springs because of the need to clear the larger wheels The model is painted in the post first-war livery of plain green but it still has the small circular cab windows which I think may have disappeared pre-war. I wonder what others think? I would agree Sandra. Not a Bulldog. I'm not very familiar with the GWR 4-4-0s but I would also say it's a - very fine - model of an Atbara. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Chas Levin Posted September 1, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 1, 2021 4 hours ago, zr2498 said: Rather expensive (£22 each), but with these ultra thin flat and round files it might be just the job. A 'long term' investment. https://www.metalclay.co.uk/ultra-thin-file-medium-fine-flat/#/ https://www.metalclay.co.uk/ultra-thin-file-medium-fine-round/#/ Many thanks zr2498, just ordered the flat one - accurate 0.5mm groove filing should be a little easier with that! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craigw Posted September 1, 2021 Share Posted September 1, 2021 2 hours ago, sandra said: I’m not convinced that this is a Bulldog. It looks like one of the 6’ 8” 4-4-0s. Certainly 3361 was a Bulldog with 5’ 8” wheels but the wheels on this model look too large. To me it looks like an Atbara for it has the high-stepping appearance of these locos. The distinguishing feature is the height of the splashers. In a Bulldog the springs rise above the top of the splashers but on this model the top of the splashers are clearly above the springs because of the need to clear the larger wheels The model is painted in the post first-war livery of plain green but it still has the small circular cab windows which I think may have disappeared pre-war. I wonder what others think? I think it is an Atbara, fitted with the wrong number. It has the tall vacuum stand at the front along with the portholes which is consistent with a loco in early 1920s condition. I would suggest it should have the tall safety valve cover though. The plating over of the portholes, low vacuum pipe stand and the fitting of heavier tender springs are things that started to occur from around 1925. Regards, Craig W 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
westerner Posted September 1, 2021 Share Posted September 1, 2021 Could even be a Flower class they also had 6ft 8 drivers Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post sandra Posted September 1, 2021 Popular Post Share Posted September 1, 2021 7 minutes ago, westerner said: Could even be a Flower class they also had 6ft 8 drivers I don’t think it’s a Flower, they had deeper frames and the brake rigging was inside the wheels. I know this because I am building a model of a Flower.This is a photo of the nearly finished but unpainted loco. 17 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrg1 Posted September 2, 2021 Share Posted September 2, 2021 10 hours ago, Chas Levin said: Many thanks zr2498, just ordered the flat one - accurate 0.5mm groove filing should be a little easier with that! Try a Stanley knife blade to open up the slots 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold zr2498 Posted September 2, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 2, 2021 1 hour ago, jrg1 said: Try a Stanley knife blade to open up the slots And another alternative that I have used (carefully) in a Proxxon TBM 220 drill to extend slots. https://www.shop-apt.co.uk/micro-diameter-end-mills-2-flute-altins-coated-ultra-fine-grain-carbide-60hrc.html Perhaps this could be used in a pin vice to open out holes?, but better to mount in a drill stand so it is kept straight (even if turned by hand). Dave 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike 84C Posted September 2, 2021 Share Posted September 2, 2021 Thanks for the cutting info; Dave taken both routes! and hammered the pension today! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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