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Wright writes.....


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15 hours ago, Captain Kernow said:

I've only noticed it with the Austerity,  Tony and I also changed the bogie wheels and also the tender wheels.

 

I also have a couple of Bachmann Standard Fives that have Markits tender wheels (OO), and I have a further set in my wheel stash, so must have foreseen a need to do another....

 

I don't remember when or why I changed them, but I doubt I'd have gone to the trouble without just cause.

 

IIRC, with both them and the WD, one had to swap the Markits wheels onto the Bachmann axles.

 

John  

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The newer Markits wheels are so much better than the old Romfords, and I hope the proprietor gets well soon, and is able to start production again. A few years ago I bought an old white metal kit that came with Romfords, but one of them turned out not to match the others, so I bought a replacement from Markits. In the event, it, too, was incompatible, but in a good way, because they have improved so much in the intervening years. I ended up going with Gibson, because I do think they look better, and of course they are miles cheaper, but the photo I took at the time shows up the differences, especially in flange depth - Left to Right: Romford; Markits; Gibson.

 

WebbWheels.jpg.f05dec56b0204ef92d91daeb6f9c2801.jpg

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1 hour ago, Barclay said:

The newer Markits wheels are so much better than the old Romfords, and I hope the proprietor gets well soon, and is able to start production again. A few years ago I bought an old white metal kit that came with Romfords, but one of them turned out not to match the others, so I bought a replacement from Markits. In the event, it, too, was incompatible, but in a good way, because they have improved so much in the intervening years. I ended up going with Gibson, because I do think they look better, and of course they are miles cheaper, but the photo I took at the time shows up the differences, especially in flange depth - Left to Right: Romford; Markits; Gibson.

 

WebbWheels.jpg.f05dec56b0204ef92d91daeb6f9c2801.jpg

Even if (like me) you don't have ready access to a set-up lathe, it is still possible to turn the older Romford flange down to a more acceptable profile, like the Markits wheel in the centre, using no more than an electric drill, a suitable needle file and a piece of fine wet & dry paper. I was doing precisely that last week, before my plans became stymied by my inability to remove some glued-in crankpins from the wheels concerned.

 

The above procedure only took minutes for each wheel, although undertaking such an operation with a mains electric drill on your own lap is done at one's own risk, of course, with appropriate PPE being a good idea too.

 

If you do have access to a lathe, however, then dealing with the older Romford flanges ought to be even easier.

 

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2 hours ago, Captain Kernow said:

undertaking such an operation with a mains electric drill on your own lap is done at one's own risk, of course, with appropriate PPE being a good idea too.

images.jpeg.a2d95fd39c6df6e4f7d12cb8834b1331.jpeg

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3 hours ago, Captain Kernow said:

Even if (like me) you don't have ready access to a set-up lathe, it is still possible to turn the older Romford flange down to a more acceptable profile, like the Markits wheel in the centre, using no more than an electric drill, a suitable needle file and a piece of fine wet & dry paper. I was doing precisely that last week, before my plans became stymied by my inability to remove some glued-in crankpins from the wheels concerned.

 

The above procedure only took minutes for each wheel, although undertaking such an operation with a mains electric drill on your own lap is done at one's own risk, of course, with appropriate PPE being a good idea too.

 

If you do have access to a lathe, however, then dealing with the older Romford flanges ought to be even easier.

 

 

I have done this using a Dremel, but with the Dremel clamped vertically in a vice that has been suitably padded. Wheel on axle, axle in the chuck of the Dremel. Apply the fine file to the wheel flange very gently, and like you finish with fine emery.

 

For some years now I've been fairly religious about using safety glasses whenever any drilling/ turning is involved. Better safe than sorry!

 

John.

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3 hours ago, Captain Kernow said:

Even if (like me) you don't have ready access to a set-up lathe, it is still possible to turn the older Romford flange down to a more acceptable profile, like the Markits wheel in the centre, using no more than an electric drill, a suitable needle file and a piece of fine wet & dry paper. I was doing precisely that last week, before my plans became stymied by my inability to remove some glued-in crankpins from the wheels concerned.

 

The above procedure only took minutes for each wheel, although undertaking such an operation with a mains electric drill on your own lap is done at one's own risk, of course, with appropriate PPE being a good idea too.

 

If you do have access to a lathe, however, then dealing with the older Romford flanges ought to be even easier.

 

A safer way to do this is to fix the drill to your work bench. To do this you will need to screw two lengths of 1" square wood to the bench parallel to each other that the drill sits between them, it needs to be a snug fit. Using an old leather belt as a strap trap the belt beneath the two lengths of wood when you screw them down. Place the drill between the lengths of wood and tighten the strap to hold the drill securely in place this will stop the drill moving around and if you have a trigger lock on the drill you can now use two hands to control the file. I would add that you really should get access to a lathe but this will do at a pinch. I would also urge you to wear safety glasses.

Good luck.

Regards Lez.      

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If you do this with a dremel and have a dremel workstation you can turn the dremel through 90 deg and lock it in place.

Regards Lez.

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42 minutes ago, lezz01 said:

A safer way to do this is to fix the drill to your work bench. To do this you will need to screw two lengths of 1" square wood to the bench parallel to each other that the drill sits between them, it needs to be a snug fit. Using an old leather belt as a strap trap the belt beneath the two lengths of wood when you screw them down. Place the drill between the lengths of wood and tighten the strap to hold the drill securely in place this will stop the drill moving around and if you have a trigger lock on the drill you can now use two hands to control the file. I would add that you really should get access to a lathe but this will do at a pinch. I would also urge you to wear safety glasses.

Good luck.

Regards Lez.      

Hi Lez

 

This sounds interesting, could you please post a photo of your set up so I don't make a mess of it and hurt myself? Thank you.

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2 hours ago, lezz01 said:

A safer way to do this is to fix the drill to your work bench. To do this you will need to screw two lengths of 1" square wood to the bench parallel to each other that the drill sits between them, it needs to be a snug fit. Using an old leather belt as a strap trap the belt beneath the two lengths of wood when you screw them down. Place the drill between the lengths of wood and tighten the strap to hold the drill securely in place this will stop the drill moving around and if you have a trigger lock on the drill you can now use two hands to control the file. I would add that you really should get access to a lathe but this will do at a pinch. I would also urge you to wear safety glasses.

I like the idea of the wooden clamping arrangements, Lez and thanks for the suggestion, but I fear I haven't got the space for something like that. The safety glasses are always a 'must', however.

 

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3 hours ago, Buhar said:

images.jpeg.a2d95fd39c6df6e4f7d12cb8834b1331.jpeg

Good afternoon Alan,

 

I take it that's a cricket box?

 

Years ago (about 1968) I was playing cricket for Edge Hill College of Education's team, and one of out batsmen had an aluminium box. Needless to say, an opposition bowler of considerable pace got a ball to rear up, hitting him smack bang where it hurts the most! He jumped a bit, squeaked a lot, then wrested with his jockstrap to release the metal box - to reveal a great big dent in it!

 

It would appear no permanent harm was done because he later became a father. 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

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A request, please.

 

Does anyone have a spare Bachmann B1 tender body for sale, please? It needs to be in BR lined black (the BR device doesn't matter - early or later). 

 

The reason for this need is that I sprayed a Bachmann V2 BR lined green tender body this morning with Halfords car rattle can acrylic satin black, and it 'attacked' the lining/BR device; it just blistered! I've cleaned it off, but rather nasty marks have been left and re-spraying hasn't disguised these (do you see why I usually leave painting to those who know what they're doing?). I've never come across this reaction before - not with acrylic. 

 

I'm happy to buy a complete tender if necessary.

 

I recall at one show, a trader selling RTR tender bodies (including Bachmann B1s), but who and where are lost in the mists of time.

 

Many thanks in anticipation. 

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For non-approved turning I've repeatedly used the electric drill clamped between the jaws of a Black and Decker Workmate, so that it is also supported over the metal frame. The deck of the Workmate can then be used, with or without additions, as a rest/guide for the turning tool - file for metal of course, file or sharp chisel for wood or plastic.  No harm ever done to the wedding veg,  but eye protection and exercise of care / caution /common sense certainly strongly recommended.

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12 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

A request, please.

 

Does anyone have a spare Bachmann B1 tender body for sale, please? It needs to be in BR lined black (the BR device doesn't matter - early or later). 

 

The reason for this need is that I sprayed a Bachmann V2 BR lined green tender body this morning with Halfords car rattle can acrylic satin black, and it 'attacked' the lining/BR device; it just blistered! I've cleaned it off, but rather nasty marks have been left and re-spraying hasn't disguised these (do you see why I usually leave painting to those who know what they're doing?). I've never come across this reaction before - not with acrylic. 

 

I'm happy to buy a complete tender if necessary.

 

I recall at one show, a trader selling RTR tender bodies (including Bachmann B1s), but who and where are lost in the mists of time.

 

Many thanks in anticipation. 

Hi @Tony Wright


EKM had a bunc h of them at AllyPally at the weekend.  ~£10 for BR Black loco body and tender I think!  

 

You can reach them at ekmx23@gmail.com or 07922 403608 (Mon-Thurs 10am-4pm)

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1 hour ago, Tony Wright said:

A request, please.

 

Does anyone have a spare Bachmann B1 tender body for sale, please? It needs to be in BR lined black (the BR device doesn't matter - early or later). 

 

The reason for this need is that I sprayed a Bachmann V2 BR lined green tender body this morning with Halfords car rattle can acrylic satin black, and it 'attacked' the lining/BR device; it just blistered! I've cleaned it off, but rather nasty marks have been left and re-spraying hasn't disguised these (do you see why I usually leave painting to those who know what they're doing?). I've never come across this reaction before - not with acrylic. 

 

I'm happy to buy a complete tender if necessary.

 

I recall at one show, a trader selling RTR tender bodies (including Bachmann B1s), but who and where are lost in the mists of time.

 

Many thanks in anticipation. 

Unexpected reactions can be weird. I have used 50:50 mix PVA for several years as a base coat/primer with no reactions. On a recent open wagon no problem with the outside surfaces but after drying the inside layer peeled off as a thin sheet. Weird as inside and outside must be the same plastic - it is one moulding. It will be a scrub off and restart at some point and see what happens second time around.

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A question for the wagon aficionados if i may,

Can anyone tell me where I can get new under frame parts, preferably in brass for this wagon please? 
It took a dive to the floor and has broken the W irons. Thanks in advance. 9053D478-CFD6-4D99-BB16-522CC1B32520.jpeg.e76d67ae774ef5547e2e150c3db43d98.jpeg

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2 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

A request, please.

 

Does anyone have a spare Bachmann B1 tender body for sale, please? It needs to be in BR lined black (the BR device doesn't matter - early or later). 

 

The reason for this need is that I sprayed a Bachmann V2 BR lined green tender body this morning with Halfords car rattle can acrylic satin black, and it 'attacked' the lining/BR device; it just blistered! I've cleaned it off, but rather nasty marks have been left and re-spraying hasn't disguised these (do you see why I usually leave painting to those who know what they're doing?). I've never come across this reaction before - not with acrylic. 

 

I'm happy to buy a complete tender if necessary.

 

I recall at one show, a trader selling RTR tender bodies (including Bachmann B1s), but who and where are lost in the mists of time.

 

Many thanks in anticipation. 

Tony - presumably you were also aware of Bachmann Spares offering all kinds of bits and pieces, including B1 tender bodies in BR black - https://Bachmann-spares.co.uk/category/2-branchline-steam-parts/b1/body-parts

 

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5 hours ago, Clive Mortimore said:

Hi Lez

 

This sounds interesting, could you please post a photo of your set up so I don't make a mess of it and hurt myself? Thank you.

 Well Clive it's something my old dad set up back in the 70s before we got 3 phase in for the Colchester lathe. I have a Unimat so it's not something I do now. I can draw you a sketch if you like though.

Regards Lez. 

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2 hours ago, geoff west said:

A question for the wagon aficionados if i may,

Can anyone tell me where I can get new under frame parts, preferably in brass for this wagon please? 
It took a dive to the floor and has broken the W irons. Thanks in advance. 9053D478-CFD6-4D99-BB16-522CC1B32520.jpeg.e76d67ae774ef5547e2e150c3db43d98.jpeg

MJT etched parts are very good. Available from Dart Castings. They also do a variety of cast axleboxes and springs to go with them.

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5 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

Good afternoon Alan,

 

I take it that's a cricket box?

 

Years ago (about 1968) I was playing cricket for Edge Hill College of Education's team, and one of out batsmen had an aluminium box. Needless to say, an opposition bowler of considerable pace got a ball to rear up, hitting him smack bang where it hurts the most! He jumped a bit, squeaked a lot, then wrested with his jockstrap to release the metal box - to reveal a great big dent in it!

 

It would appear no permanent harm was done because he later became a father. 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

One ball left.

 

B. Johnston

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