APOLLO Posted May 22, 2019 Share Posted May 22, 2019 Another Deltic and old water crane - a North Eastern Railway one this time at Darlington, 10 July 1968. D9017 "The Durham Light Infantry" is heading north & not stopping at Darlington station. (The one at Doncaster above is a Great Northern design). Brit15 6 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodcock29 Posted May 22, 2019 Share Posted May 22, 2019 1 hour ago, The Fatadder said: Well I got my part built A4 kit yesterday, and set to work stripping it down last night. It seems to have been built with a mix of solder and glue (the core of the body is soldered but some parts were glued on.) One problem was that the back head had been fitted too far back (so it obscured the whole of the first side window and a gap was visible behind it looking through the front window.) While trying to adjust the fit unfortunately the cab side broke off (which will get soldered back into position once I am happy with the fit of the back head.) Unfortunately I just cant work out how it is supposed to fit, especially as the kit didn’t come with any instructions (if any one could send me a scan of the chassis instructions it would be most appreciated, else I am cobbling it together from some Comet instructions + Tony’s photos) It looks like material should have been removed from the rear of the backhead to get a good fit (marked in blue on the photos.) Still annoyed with myself for breaking the cab side, after a glued part fell off I thought it must all be glue (so dunked it in boiling water for a while to soften before pulling to separate the parts. The glued bits came off, but the solder stayed strong!) On the plus side I can be confident that what is left is solid! The body will be getting a bath of oven cleaner tonight to get rid of the crude coat of gloss paint and get back to bare metal along with highlighting any other areas which need work before I get started on the chassis. Looks like it only has insulated wheels on one side, so will be added to the list of higher risk DCC installs… At least there will be plenty of roof for a decoder! Thanks Rich Fatadder It looks to me as though it is more or less in the right place as it is. On Gresley pacifics the firebox base is in line with the front edge of the second side window, ie it occupies most of the leading windows. Andrew Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
micklner Posted May 22, 2019 Share Posted May 22, 2019 The Backhead has lugs on it ,they should line up with holes in the footplate casting (if still present). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Wright Posted May 22, 2019 Author Share Posted May 22, 2019 (edited) 1 hour ago, The Fatadder said: Well I got my part built A4 kit yesterday, and set to work stripping it down last night. It seems to have been built with a mix of solder and glue (the core of the body is soldered but some parts were glued on.) One problem was that the back head had been fitted too far back (so it obscured the whole of the first side window and a gap was visible behind it looking through the front window.) While trying to adjust the fit unfortunately the cab side broke off (which will get soldered back into position once I am happy with the fit of the back head.) Unfortunately I just cant work out how it is supposed to fit, especially as the kit didn’t come with any instructions (if any one could send me a scan of the chassis instructions it would be most appreciated, else I am cobbling it together from some Comet instructions + Tony’s photos) It looks like material should have been removed from the rear of the backhead to get a good fit (marked in blue on the photos.) Still annoyed with myself for breaking the cab side, after a glued part fell off I thought it must all be glue (so dunked it in boiling water for a while to soften before pulling to separate the parts. The glued bits came off, but the solder stayed strong!) On the plus side I can be confident that what is left is solid! The body will be getting a bath of oven cleaner tonight to get rid of the crude coat of gloss paint and get back to bare metal along with highlighting any other areas which need work before I get started on the chassis. Looks like it only has insulated wheels on one side, so will be added to the list of higher risk DCC installs… At least there will be plenty of roof for a decoder! Thanks Rich How much did you pay for this, Rich? The construction looks utter cr@p! I think you're right in that backhead was fixed too far back (you shouldn't be able to see daylight between it and the firebox). By the way, Dave Ellis will sell you any spare parts from any of his kits. From memory, I can't remember how the backhead is supposed to fit, though I must have got it right (about 15 times!). You can just make it out through the spectacle. I don't have a scanner, so the following pair are just photographs, but they might help. What does your recent experience show? Unless you paid next-to-nothing for that A4, avoid anything like that at all costs. Though it's painful to relate, over 90% of loco kits are never finished to a 'satisfactory' standard (not my figures, but from the 'horse's mouth'). Thus, they appear all over the place in their various degrees of abject failure. The triumph of aspiration over ability! Regards, Tony. Edited May 22, 2019 by Tony Wright to clarify a point 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold john new Posted May 22, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 22, 2019 (edited) I have a Crownline whitemetal tender kit* that has been in the to-do box for years. I would have glued it but can see the argument raised in posts above that soldering is better. However, I know whitemetal is low melt, which is why I would have chosen to glue it rather than risk melting castings. I have two irons available - an Antex 16/18W model or a Maplins variable heat. As the Maplins one has no guidance as to temperature range, simply a knob to vary the heat, I would prefer to avoid it. Will the Antex be up to the job? * 8 wheel for a King Arthur as a replacement for the original Hornby 6 wheel plastic one. Edited May 22, 2019 by john new Edit - reworded to make better sense Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Wright Posted May 22, 2019 Author Share Posted May 22, 2019 5 minutes ago, john new said: I have a Crownline whitemetal tender kit* that has been in the to-do box for years. I would have glued it but can see the argument raised in posts above that soldering is better. However, I know whitemetal is low melt, which is why I would have chosen to glue it rather than risk melting castings. I have two irons available - an Antex 16/18W model or a Maplins variable heat. As the Maplins one has no guidance as to temperature range, simply a knob to vary the heat, I would prefer to avoid it. Will the Antex be up to the job? * 8 wheel for a King Arthur as a replacement for the original Hornby 6 wheel plastic one. Good morning John, An 18 Watt iron will just slightly warm up any castings. What you need is a proper temperature-controlled iron, of at least 50W. I don't now what your Maplin's iron's wattage is, but unless it's properly temperature-controlled, all it'll do is lower the temperature and the wattage at the same time. A 'proper' TC iron just lowers the temperature of the bit, but the wattage (it's power of recovery) remains the same. They are not cheap! Might I suggest you obtain some spare/scrap white metal and practise your techniques on that! Ask Dave Ellis of SE Finecast if he'll sell you some malformed castings. Once you master soldering, you'll then only use glue for what it's really good at fixing - wood and plastic. Regards, Tony. 2 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Wright Posted May 22, 2019 Author Share Posted May 22, 2019 This class of electric loco has a top speed of 110 mph. You can read it on the data panel of Bachmann's latest wonderful model........................... 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold john new Posted May 22, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 22, 2019 Cheers Tony. Expected the Antex to be too cool, I got the Maplins one a few years back now for a brass kit job. I think my worry with whitemetal (as opposed to brass) is that if you get it wrong you melt it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Fatadder Posted May 22, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 22, 2019 48 minutes ago, Tony Wright said: How much did you pay for this, Rich? The construction looks utter cr@p! I think you're right in that backhead was fixed too far back (you shouldn't be able to see daylight between it and the firebox). By the way, Dave Ellis will sell you any spare parts from any of his kits. From memory, I can't remember how the backhead is supposed to fit, though I must have got it right (about 15 times!). Unless you paid next-to-nothing for that A4, avoid anything like that at all costs. Though it's painful to relate, over 90% of loco kits are never finished to a 'satisfactory' standard (not my figures, but from the 'horse's mouth'). Thus, they appear all over the place in their various degrees of abject failure. The triumph of aspiration over ability! Thanks for the photos Tony, I will cross reference against that as I start dismantling. Once I have finished stripping the paint I think I will try and break it back down to its original components (I think I recall reading that if you stick a white metal kit in the oven at a low temperature you can melt the solder so it all falls apart?) Thankfully the chassis hasn’t been touched, so any issues there will be purely of my own making. Thankfully I didn’t pay too much more than the cost of the driving wheels (with the hope that it would be glued construction and fall apart as soon as I started stripping it down. I have already budgeted to get some replacement parts (notably the crossheads / slide bar castings, round chassis spacers and parts 35/36 for the cut away valances). Depending on how well I can repair the broken cab side / boiler assembly that will also be added to the list. I. An order will be placed later this week once I have got to the bottom of exactly what is required (I am very grateful that SEF supply replacement parts) I rather like the challenge of taking something that has been messed up and trying to turn a decent model out of it. I cant wait to see a garter blue engine on the front of a set of chocolate and cream coaches! 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buhar Posted May 22, 2019 Share Posted May 22, 2019 If it's been assembled with 70 degree solder, which I would expect with so many glued bits elsewhere, a dunk in boiling water will separate the parts with no risk to the castings. Given the lead content, choose your pan wisely. Alan 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coach bogie Posted May 22, 2019 Share Posted May 22, 2019 15 hours ago, Barry Ten said: The City was completed without any alteration to the boiler details other than swapping the safety valve for a brass one, but on the Birds (and Bulldogs) the boiler bands and safety valve positions are different Al The main reason for the difference is the Bulldogs had the smaller number 2 boiler whereas the City had the larger no 4 (the same as the mogul). The ex Kitmaster boiler was always a little underscale, but still a bit big for a Bulldog. Mike Wiltshire 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Wright Posted May 22, 2019 Author Share Posted May 22, 2019 2 hours ago, The Fatadder said: Thanks for the photos Tony, I will cross reference against that as I start dismantling. Once I have finished stripping the paint I think I will try and break it back down to its original components (I think I recall reading that if you stick a white metal kit in the oven at a low temperature you can melt the solder so it all falls apart?) Thankfully the chassis hasn’t been touched, so any issues there will be purely of my own making. Thankfully I didn’t pay too much more than the cost of the driving wheels (with the hope that it would be glued construction and fall apart as soon as I started stripping it down. I have already budgeted to get some replacement parts (notably the crossheads / slide bar castings, round chassis spacers and parts 35/36 for the cut away valances). Depending on how well I can repair the broken cab side / boiler assembly that will also be added to the list. I. An order will be placed later this week once I have got to the bottom of exactly what is required (I am very grateful that SEF supply replacement parts) I rather like the challenge of taking something that has been messed up and trying to turn a decent model out of it. I cant wait to see a garter blue engine on the front of a set of chocolate and cream coaches! Boiling water to get it apart, as suggested by Alan. Use an old pan, no longer used for cooking! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Wright Posted May 22, 2019 Author Share Posted May 22, 2019 Returning (as usual) to kits and RTR, who'd now build a brass kit to make ex-LMS Porthole stock? At last, the long-awaited maroon examples of these splendid carriages have arrived from Bachmann. How long before we get the same livery on the Thompsons? 9 2 1 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Barry Ten Posted May 22, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 22, 2019 6 hours ago, Coach bogie said: The main reason for the difference is the Bulldogs had the smaller number 2 boiler whereas the City had the larger no 4 (the same as the mogul). The ex Kitmaster boiler was always a little underscale, but still a bit big for a Bulldog. Mike Wiltshire The Kitmaster boiler measures 22.6mm at its widest point, and 20.6 mm at the narrowest, which corresponds to a shade over 5.6" tapering down to a shade over 5". That's not far off the stated dimensions for a no.4 boiler, as listed here: http://www.gwr.org.uk/no440s.html What I don't know is whether those figures are the visible outside diameter, making allowance for cladding, or the internal dimensions of the boiler without cladding. Whatever the case, I'll have to live with any discrepancy and trust that the essential character of the loco still comes through. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lecorbusier Posted May 22, 2019 Share Posted May 22, 2019 (edited) 8 hours ago, Tony Wright said: Returning (as usual) to kits and RTR, who'd now build a brass kit to make ex-LMS Porthole stock? Me .... if it was my period Perhaps I will get bored in a few years (or impatince may well set in) ... but at the moment I just like building things ! Very rewarding and satisfying They may not be as good as the Bachman .... but for me that's not really the point - my loco's are not as good as the venerable TW either Edited May 22, 2019 by Lecorbusier 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Wright Posted May 22, 2019 Author Share Posted May 22, 2019 (edited) Bachmann's latest Class 90 on test on LB. Who needs digital sound. It's a pity I couldn't link the real train noise with the running of this one. More on BRM Digital........................ A full review will be appearing soon in BRM. Edited May 22, 2019 by Tony Wright to clarify a point 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Wright Posted May 22, 2019 Author Share Posted May 22, 2019 41 minutes ago, Lecorbusier said: Me .... if it was my period Perhaps I will get bored in a few years (or impatince may well set in) ... but at the moment I just like building things ! Very rewarding and satisfying They may not be as good as the Bachman .... but for me that's not really the point - my loco's are not as good as the venreable TW either I'm inclined to agree, but I think we'd be in a minority. I'm already fiddling with these - junking those ghastly couplings, concertina gangways, a bit of weathering - that sort of thing. You're right, I really am venerable (I assume you mean I'm old). I'm not sure about your locos not being as good as mine. Not from what I've seen! Regards, Tony. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Wright Posted May 22, 2019 Author Share Posted May 22, 2019 9 hours ago, john new said: Cheers Tony. Expected the Antex to be too cool, I got the Maplins one a few years back now for a brass kit job. I think my worry with whitemetal (as opposed to brass) is that if you get it wrong you melt it. Indeed you do, John! How do you think I know? Regards, Tony. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lecorbusier Posted May 22, 2019 Share Posted May 22, 2019 (edited) 29 minutes ago, Tony Wright said: You're right, I really am venerable (I assume you mean I'm old). Definition of venerable 1a : calling forth respect through age, character, and attainments a venerable jazz musician broadly : conveying an impression of aged goodness and benevolence encouraged by the venerable doctor's head-nodding My dad was 93 last weekend .... now that is what I call OLD! Edited May 22, 2019 by Lecorbusier 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium MJI Posted May 22, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 22, 2019 OK I wonder if anyone here can help. I model BR blue era and are part way through detailing a large pile of coaches. I have been using Laserglaze but I cannot get hold of any more, email nothing, phone rings out, cheque in post, no reply. I need some of those brown air conditioned windows, if I could find the right plastics I could probably get them cut. Or even buy my own cutter. But I need to find out what it is to match the 7 or 8 so far completed. However since they appear to be NLA what is the option for such things as window frames? Thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clearwater Posted May 22, 2019 Share Posted May 22, 2019 1 hour ago, Tony Wright said: Bachmann's latest Class 90 on test on LB. Who needs digital sound. It's a pity I couldn't link the real train noise with the running of this one. More on BRM Digital........................ A full review will be appearing soon in BRM. Its quite disconcerting seeing something quite so modern on LB. Perhaps when one of the OO 92s is available and an Azuma, you could replicate a recent promotional shot and line up the different generations of ECML motive power from Atlantics, through A1s, A3s, A4s, A1s, Deltics, HSTs, 92s and Azumas. Given the ECML setting would be evocative! David 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Dave 46 Posted May 22, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 22, 2019 22 hours ago, St Enodoc said: Ah, that's about as far as I got nearly 50 years ago converting an Airfix City of Truro to a 43xx Mogul. Filling the gaps behind the splashers defeated me completely as a teenager. The April 1961 Model Railway Constructor recommended "Plasticine, Polyfilla or Pyruma" for filling these gaps. I've got a scanned copy of the article, but can't remember whether I attepted to combine the City and prairy tank to produce a mogul. Dave 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidw Posted May 22, 2019 Share Posted May 22, 2019 (edited) 8 hours ago, Tony Wright said: Returning (as usual) to kits and RTR, who'd now build a brass kit to make ex-LMS Porthole stock? At last, the long-awaited maroon examples of these splendid carriages have arrived from Bachmann. How long before we get the same livery on the Thompsons? 2026? By which time they'll be double the price of comet kits- just adding paraffin to the fire. Edited May 22, 2019 by davidw 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
drmditch Posted May 22, 2019 Share Posted May 22, 2019 On 21/05/2019 at 20:50, Andy Hayter said: Yedan Dva Tri chetyre pyet shest etc. And again but written in Cyrillic please...…. 1 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Clive Mortimore Posted May 22, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 22, 2019 2 hours ago, Tony Wright said: Bachmann's latest Class 90 on test on LB. Who needs digital sound. It's a pity I couldn't link the real train noise with the running of this one. More on BRM Digital........................ A full review will be appearing soon in BRM. Dear Mr Wright You seem to be in need of some of the following. 2 1 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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