Wright writes.....

[Clive Mortimore]

2 hours ago, Barry Ten said:

Oops...

 

 

Al

A bit of gaffer tape, fixes everything.

[polybear]

24 minutes ago, Clive Mortimore said:

A bit of gaffer tape, fixes everything.

 

You could always try gluing it....

 

Hat, coat, gone....

[Barry Ten]

It'll improve with running-in I think. At least that's what Railway Modeller always said.

[5050]

58 minutes ago, Barry Ten said:

It'll improve with running-in I think. At least that's what Railway Modeller always said.

It'll probably be OK running forwards - just don't reverse it!

[t-b-g]

7 hours ago, Brinkly said:

 

I hope my comment above didn't read like that. I was just passing on my experience of the product. I also started a thread acknowledging that I had gone wrong! 

 

Kind regards,

 

Nick.

 

Not at all. I think most modellers are happy to accept that if something goes wrong, there is a fair chance that perhaps they had something to do with it!

 

I am just not very keen on seeing products dismissed as rubbish when others have had good results from them. It may put people off trying them, which is hardly fair.

 

I have had times when spray cans have gone wrong for me too. I wish I knew exactly what it was that I do wrong sometimes but I do know it is down to me and not the product!

[gr.king]

Diastatic Malt Syrup......by EDME

 

Meaningful at one time to moderately serious home brewers, but no longer produced I gather.

[Chuffer Davies]

5 hours ago, Barry Ten said:

Oops...

 

 

Al

Looks like a clear candidate for Tony’s clinic. 

 

Nice shade of green though.  

Frank

[Barry Ten]

In case anyone's on the edge of their seat...

 

The prairie was dismantled and the two pieces of the broken coupling rod taped to the workbench and re-soldered ... after cleaning

up and reassembly, all is well again. If it fails again I'll just have to bite the bullet and order some new rods, but at least now I'm no

worse off than I was this morning. I seem to remember that I was a bit concerned about the weakness of that rod during assembly, so

it was probably a failure waiting to happen. The SE Finecast etch was very fine and Comet rods would probably be a better bet for

durability (in my clumsy hands).

[thegreenhowards]

10 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

Thanks Andy,

 

I'm entirely sympathetic with you regarding the Cricket World Cup's result. Coming to its climax, I said to my wife - the trophy should be shared. Why not? As you say, there were no winners and (certainly) no losers. It could be argued that, having not been dismissed in their 50 overs, the Kiwis should have won, because England was all out.  

 

Regarding 'my' thread, I don't see it as my 'property' at all. Its merit (if that's the right word) is in its diversity, with so many folk commenting and, most importantly, posting examples of their work - some of which is representative of the highest standards in modelling in my view.

 

Yes, I accept (because of me?) it can be 'argumentative' and even controversial, but the amount of knowledge which is imparted through it is astonishing. So, thanks to all for making it so.

 

Regarding being 'argumentative', someone has recently stated on here that Halford's primer is rubbish (or words to that effect). 

 

I assume it's the acrylic car aerosol which is being described as such (the rattle can)? 

 

My view is opposite to that. I've found it really good, producing quite-acceptable results (at least to me). I painted the following three examples of models I've built using it, employing a top coat of the same firm's Ford Burgundy Red - straight from the tin. 

 

 

 

 

If these are the results of using 'rubbish', then I'm giving up!

 

For those who prefer a finer spray-pattern, Geoff Haynes decanted the primer and the top coat into his airbrush, using a proportion of acrylic thinners. 

 

 

With this result.....................

 

I'm not claiming anything other than the carriages above are perfectly acceptable as 'layout' coaches (at least to me), and certainly not painted with rubbish! I accept they're certainly not to the same standard as the models built by the guy who made the claim (very few are), but I think it's wrong to dissuade others (by opinion) from using  what, to me, is a perfectly-acceptable product. 

 

I'm sure others on here have achieved equally-satisfactory results using Halfords paints. 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

Tony,

 

I completely agree. I’ve always had good results with Halfords or Hycote Car paints and they’re so easy to apply. I haven’t tried an airbrush for 35 years and have no intention of trying again. All that cleaning sounds far too much like hard work! 

 

Where i struggle is crimson and cream livery. I haven’t found a decent match to cream in car paints, and I don’t really get on with masking tape. So far I’ve tended to spray the crimson (Ford Rosso red) and then hand paint the cream. But it doesn’t produce perfect results.

 

Andy

[stewartingram]

4 hours ago, Clive Mortimore said:

A bit of gaffer tape, fixes everything.

Nah, use a cable tie, we always did on the Underground.

 

Stewart

[TheSignalEngineer]

11 hours ago, Fat Controller said:

 

I was taught to 'bull up' by mum's brother, who had been in the Welsh Guards; his technique involved a hot dessert spoon, and some lint-free rag. 

When I was in the cadet force at school my Dad who had ended his army service as a CQMS in the Military Police taught me that method. First time I turned up for parade in them the CO swore that I had used varnish to get the shine.

 

[BlackRat]

14 hours ago, Clive Mortimore said:

So who use to bull his DMS with Klear?

 

Me.....? Never! 

Shoe toe caps.....yes.

Parade boots.......Blackfriars dark Jacobean oak varnish, sanded, varnished, sanded, varnished etc etc etc!

 

DEFINITELY only after training tho!!!!!!!!!

 

Re Halfords rattle cans......some of the best on the market IMHO.

 

Excellent density and coverage, never block or splutter ( in my experience) and give a fine even cover.

 

Ive tried other makes etc, none are as good and for the price they are excellent.

 

Ive also been using Army Works, which are equally as good especially for bulk colours.....they produce a passable BR Bauxite, especially when weathered and a number of other useful colours.

Edited July 17, 2019 by BlackRat

[St Enodoc]

12 hours ago, t-b-g said:

On a recent trip to Halfords I obtained a primer I hadn't seen there before, a single rattle can etching grey primer. I have only tested it on a bit of brass but it does seem very smooth and sticks better than he conventional type.

We don't have Halfords down here Tony but I have used a single-can etching primer from the equivalent car spares shop. It is now my first choice for priming brass. All the levers on my Modratec lever frame, which Tony W has seen, were primed with it before applying single-can epoxy paint for the top coats.

[St Enodoc]

2 hours ago, thegreenhowards said:

I haven’t found a decent match to cream in car paints

I used to use Ford Sahara Beige before I left home shores.

[31A]

3 hours ago, thegreenhowards said:

Tony,

 

I completely agree. I’ve always had good results with Halfords or Hycote Car paints and they’re so easy to apply. I haven’t tried an airbrush for 35 years and have no intention of trying again. All that cleaning sounds far too much like hard work! 

 

Where i struggle is crimson and cream livery. I haven’t found a decent match to cream in car paints, and I don’t really get on with masking tape. So far I’ve tended to spray the crimson (Ford Rosso red) and then hand paint the cream. But it doesn’t produce perfect results.

 

Andy

 

I agree re. Halford's aerosols and use them a lot, but have also not found suitable car colours for BR red/cream.

 

In that case I spray Railmatch BR Coach Cream from their aerosols over a base of Halford's white primer, then brush paint the red using Railmatch BR Crimson.  I don't really get on with masking tape either, especially on panelled (ex LNER teak) coaches, so I rule a pencil line where the colours join and do my best to paint the red up to it by hand, using a good flat brush.  To a degree any inaccuracy in that will be covered by the lining (for which I use Modelmasters waterslide transfers) but sometimes if I think I've not been very good at painting a straight edge freehand, I go back over the bottom of the cream section ruling a straight line with a bow pen loaded with Railmatch cream before I put the lining transfers on.  I have read that Railmatch aerosols don't give very good results but so far I don't think I've had any problems with them provided the usual precautions are taken re. shaking and warming the can beforehand.

 

[thegreenhowards]

7 hours ago, St Enodoc said:

I used to use Ford Sahara Beige before I left home shores.

Thanks. I think I’ve heard that recommendation before, but it seems that Halfords no longer do that colour. I’ve heard that they can mix any colour, but mine don’t seem to be able to do so.

 

I have tried the Railmatch aerosol, but I didn’t have good results - probably because I was lazy with the prep - shaking and warming etc..

 

I also use the pencil line and Modelmaster transfers to cover the join trick (as suggested by ‘31A’). I know that ‘sir’ regards the transfers as overscale which is probably true....but quite an advantage when you’re covering a paint join!

 

Andy

[jwealleans]

BMW Zinnobar Red for Crimson and Gazelle beige for Cream.  I've done some carriages for Tom Foster and he prefers Ford Rosso Red, which is slightly pinker.   I find Halfords aerosols very good indeed, probably the best since Games Workshop changed the formulation of some of theirs and (for me) rather spoiled them.

Edited July 18, 2019 by jwealleans

[St Enodoc]

11 minutes ago, thegreenhowards said:

Thanks. I think I’ve heard that recommendation before, but it seems that Halfords no longer do that colour.

Fair enough Andy - after all, it's 18 years since I lived in the UK!

[jamie92208]

I use Halford's etch primer on brass and white metal with good results.   For many years I have used Halford's Rover Damask red for painting Midland coaches and locos and brought several cans over to France with me.   As to cream for lining, I tend to use Humbrol and have just found my old bow pen so will try and master the dark arts on a 2-4-0 that will need lining soon.

 

Jamie

[Tony Wright]

13 hours ago, t-b-g said:

 

Not at all. I think most modellers are happy to accept that if something goes wrong, there is a fair chance that perhaps they had something to do with it!

 

I am just not very keen on seeing products dismissed as rubbish when others have had good results from them. It may put people off trying them, which is hardly fair.

 

I have had times when spray cans have gone wrong for me too. I wish I knew exactly what it was that I do wrong sometimes but I do know it is down to me and not the product!

Thanks Tony,

 

'I have had times when spray cans have gone wrong for me too'. Have you seen my rattle can painting on the Right Track DVD? 

 

 

This is how I do it now (though this is Mo just 'demonstrating' it). I wear a rubber glove on my left hand to prevent polychromatic digits appearing! I know this is very unscientific, but I just get a 'feel' for what is the right distance from can to model. I admit, it's also a bit wasteful, but it works for me. It doesn't have to be warm to spray (though that helps), but, obviously, it must be dry, and not freezing cold. Immediately after each coat is applied, I use an old hair dryer (or a hair dryer which is old!) to speed up the drying process. This also seems to 'flatten' the paint very nicely.

 

 

I'm also a fan of Halford's satin black for giving a smooth, even finish, after priming with red oxide. This is a Mousa Models all-resin ex GNR Brake Third. John Isherwood (bless him) kindly supplied the Engineering Dept transfers for this. 

 

 

Obviously, the finish has been taken further to represent the typical antiquated and distressed appearance of these superannuated vehicles. Richard Wilson weathered this with acrylics. 

 

I find this type of rattle can painting quite acceptable. Clearly, it's not the choice of painting professionals (or is it?), but it's readily-accessible and doesn't require specialist facilities.

 

I think it's very unhelpful to confuse opinion with fact, so, thanks again for stating that, Tony. 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Tony Wright]

9 hours ago, St Enodoc said:

We don't have Halfords down here Tony but I have used a single-can etching primer from the equivalent car spares shop. It is now my first choice for priming brass. All the levers on my Modratec lever frame, which Tony W has seen, were primed with it before applying single-can epoxy paint for the top coats.

Seen, and photographed!

 

 

It's very impressive, John.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[Brinkly]

@Tony Wright

 

 

Where did you get that handy device from Tony? 

 

Kind regards,

 

Nick.

[bbishop]

2 minutes ago, Brinkly said:

@Tony Wright

 

 

Where did you get that handy device from Tony? 

 

Kind regards,

 

Nick.

 

After the acquisition of a marriage license.

 

Bill

[Brinkly]

1 minute ago, bbishop said:

 

After the acquisition of a marriage license.

 

Bill

 

 I've just really laughed aloud at that comment Bill. 

No, not Mo! The grips!

 

Regards,

 

Nick

[Tony Wright]

I had a most-interesting time yesterday operating Little Bytham with three friends. 

 

Two were part of the team which built it and the other was Gilbert Barnatt, the owner of Peterborough North (Gilbert also did some scenic work on LB). Gilbert observed operations. 

 

As is well known, I cannot tolerate derailments, but lo and behold, within moments of starting running, three derailments occurred, all at the same point (literally). It was also at the same point where an A2's bogie derailed a day or two ago. The moral? Always investigate a derailment, and not just the derailed vehicle. On close-inspection the 'nose' on the switch rail (which normally fits snugly adjacent to the stock rail) had been 'bruised' slightly by the initial derailment and was slightly bent inwards. Not enough to derail every passing vehicle, but just one or two. A quick tweak, and all was well again, but how annoying; especially after I'd been just pontificating (as usual) about good running being essential!  After that, apart from the usual 'operator errors', all ran perfectly.

 

One thing I found interesting was Gilbert's different approach to mine in representing the trains of the period (the same as mine, the summer of 1958). His research is more diligent than mine, and he aims to replicate every train which ran through PN on a given day. I don't have the resources to do that (my bank account is limited!), and I don't think I'd even try even if I did have plenty of fiscal clout. LB's sequence has about 45 different trains in it. Many (I hope) are accurate representations of specific trains - 'The Elizabethan', 'The Queen of Scots', 'The Flying Scotsman' and so on, but several are more generic; 'typical' rather than strictly 'prototypical'. 

 

I was a bit surprised when he mentioned a couple or so books he'd used for reference. My copies of those same books are festooned with scribblings in the margins pointing out the very many errors! Almost all my generic trains are made-up using prototype photographs, several by Keith Pirt. Now I know the late, great photographer's captions are almost universally works of fiction, but they're very clear indeed, and carriages can usually be identified (though not right at the rear) with relative ease. I accept that many of the shots would have been taken over (summer) weekends, and many would show 'extras'. Many don't coincide with the 'official' make-ups of the trains, but they did exist in that form, if only for one day. 

 

Another difference in our different approaches was with regard to operation. I never operate LB by myself (other than to test trains), much preferring making things when friends aren't visiting. Each to their own, but, to me, the two greatest pleasures I get from this hobby are operating my trainset with friends or sitting at my workbench making things. 

 

Speaking of making things.................... With the end of Mashima motors' availability, other supplies have to be sourced. DJH manufactures bespoke gearboxes for Mashimas. This morning, I'm expecting a made-up DJH gearbox with a different motor, for me to install into a set of frames (for a K1, sitting on my workbench right now) and on which to report back. I'll keep readers here posted as well. 

 

Thanks Rob, Mick and Gilbert for a really great time yesterday. Good friendship, great conversation and lovely weather to sit outside and enjoy!