Wright writes.....

[Denbridge]

9 hours ago, St Enodoc said:

I seem to recall that cyanoacrylate was recommended for the George Alan footbridge, presumably to eliminate the risk of heat distortion.

George Alan also recommended using superglue to build his GWR Syphons. I built 2 but only used Cyrano for the fine detail. The 3rd which I'm about to start will be entirely soldered.

[Tony Wright]

1 hour ago, Headstock said:

 

Morning Tony,

 

there's another one of those stunted LMS vans right in the middle of the picture, or is its compression a result of the accident?

 

Was it an accident, or a convoluted attempt to divest the layout of the aforementioned mini me van?

They'll all go before long.......

[Tony Wright]

21 minutes ago, PupCam said:

 

He'll have to be destroyed!  Oh no!  A sad reminder of September1981

 

Will he be parked, unloved at the back of the works unloved before the axe man  cometh?

 

Alan

It's back in the drawer, Alan, 

 

Along with the other umpteen Deltics in there.

 

I have no idea how to fix it (or what's actually gone wrong). RTR diesels/electrics are a complete mystery to me, though getting the bodies off is usually (but not always) easier than delving inside an RTR steam-outline model. 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

Edited March 5, 2020 by Tony Wright

[PaulCheffus]

14 hours ago, grahame said:

 

I'm under the impression that the smaller the part the more difficult it can be to solder. I've just watched a video of the assembly of a 1:700 scale PE brass radar array (for a battleship). The parts were almost microscopic and were glued together with a minute globule of glue applied on the pointed end of a pin. I don't think I've seen an iron bit small enough to be used.

 

And of course some of tiny parts were attached to plastic mouldings which is not really suitable for soldering. Sometimes I think it is often more a matter of horses for courses.

 

 

Hi

 

This was soldered together.

As were these from six pieces of brass wire and tube.

 

Coin in both cases is 5p.

 

Cheers

 

Paul

 

[60027Merlin]

Regarding  whitemetal kits glued together here are a couple examples from the archives of the kit instructions from 1967/68.

 

Soldering started after these two locos when in all innocence I purchased a Jamieson kit from Eames of Reading!

 

 

 

 

[Tony Wright]

25 minutes ago, 60027Merlin said:

Regarding  whitemetal kits glued together here are a couple examples from the archives of the kit instructions from 1967/68.

 

Soldering started after these two locos when in all innocence I purchased a Jamieson kit from Eames of Reading!

 

 

 

 

Thanks Eric,

 

I wonder, did any contemporary kit instructions for assembling white metal models ever suggest soldering?

 

It's my experience that with any glued-together metal kits, in time (even if assembled with expoxy) they can be taken apart with just finger pressure. 

 

It's also interesting to note, with regard to the A2 kit, that the front platform is wrong, the position for the generator is wrong, the dome is wrong, the cab roof is wrong, the arrangement for the Cartazzi truck is wrong, the cab is wrong (it should have rivets, and the side windows are too big) and the tender is completely wrong. It was designed from the Roche drawing. Thankfully, things have moved on. 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

Edited March 5, 2020 by Tony Wright
to clarify a point

[Steven B]

12 hours ago, johndon said:

 

Military modellers are, for the most part, miles ahead of us railway modellers when it comes to weathering.

 

There's no doubt that there's plenty to be learnt from military modellers techniques. I've used pre-shading (undercoating areas with white or black) to good effect for example. Similarly applying an overall light wash of muck can help bring together a rake of differently weathered stock.

 

That said, I find a decent proportion of military weathering ends up looking like a caricature with exhaust marks, dents and scratches looking much more pronounced than on the real thing. But then a lot of RTR model have panel lines that are much deeper than you'd find on the prototype so perhaps adding to the caricature with ill thought out weathering helps.

 

Steven B.

[grahame]

58 minutes ago, PaulCheffus said:

 

This was soldered together.

 

 

As were these from six pieces of brass wire and tube.

 

Coin in both cases is 5p.

 

 

 

Very nice delicate work, although the radar array was far smaller.

 

[PupCam]

16 hours ago, thegreenhowards said:

There is one sentence at the bottom which states “If you have experience of soldering, the models can also be assembled using this method”. It’s not surprising that people don’t solder when they’re actively discouraged in this way.

 

 

I don't interpret that statement as "actively discouraged", I interpret it more positively as the manufacturer providing supplementary guidance as to a prerequisite for the completion of the model by that method.   You could look at it as active encouragement to develop soldering skills on something easier before committing to the construction of a more complex or difficult model.  

 

Having spent many years in the aviation industry where bonded metal structures were first developed back in the 50's there's clearly a place for adhesives in assembling metal components but for etched brass model kits soldering just seems better to me, although I admit that the thought of soldering doesn't fill me with fear.   For those that do dread the mention of solder there are many shows that have demonstrations of soldering and in some cases (e.g. Roger Sawyer @ CMRA Show Stevenage) where you can actually get hands on and have a go.   Soldering is not a black art, there are just a few simple rules to follow and success is (almost!) guaranteed.   

 

You can even "solder" (Quotes are because it's not actually solder i.e. a tin/lead alloy) aluminium components together now with a couple of products.  The one I use is called Alutite, it requires a slightly different process  as there is no flux (just a sharp metal point) used to first "tin" the mating surfaces withe the Alutite which are then sweated together just as you would with solder.

 

Here is a little Rotherham Pump (used on WW1 British aircraft) assembled from turned ali and brass components.  In this case the ali components were joined with Alutite, the brass components were Silver Soldered (much higher melting temperature than normal tin/lead soft solder) and the ali spigot epoxied into the tight fitting brass cylinder.    A novel trick, although probably not relevant for railway models, is that if you grit blast machined ali it turns out looking like a casting

 

Alan

 

 

[Tony Wright]

One thing which I've noticed in more-recent times (which, in a way, has a link with soldering), is the number of times I've been asked to build locos. This has been at shows, via emails, phone calls, letters or PMs. In almost every case, the type requested is not available RTR. 

 

Though I used to build locos professionally, other than now just for mates, I no longer take commissions - I don't have time, especially with my own pile of kits to build, and, now in retirement, I don't need to (I hope that doesn't sound too selfish). 

 

Which leads me to believe that there is a large number of model railway enthusiasts out there who have the resources (cash) to both buy the bits and commission others to build them, but they don't have the skills. 

 

Is that a good thing in a way? I think so, for two reasons - it should encourage kit-manufacturers to supply (perhaps) more esoteric types, and it keeps professional modellers in work. The latter said, all the ones I know (and they're good) have at least two/three years' waiting lists. Fine, but many who want models built for them are well beyond their Biblical lifespan! That's the not-so-good thing.

 

I predict a glut of kit-built locos on the market in the next few years, for obvious reasons.

Edited March 6, 2020 by Tony Wright
typo error

[Clem]

6 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

I thought all gender-specific colours had disappeared from everyday life, until Mo and I were browsing in a craft shop in Edinburgh last year. She was looking at some jewellery-making bits and pieces, in the section catering for 'ladies', and saw them. I just had to buy them! 

Yes, I purloined Chris's pink jewellery pliers some time ago. She'll no doubt want them back at some time in the future. Can't seem to find them at the moment though.....  ;-)

[60027Merlin]

3 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

Thanks Eric,

 

I wonder, did any contemporary kit instructions for assembling white metal models ever suggest soldering?

 

It's my experience that with any glued-together metal kits, in time (even if assembled with expoxy) they can be taken apart with just finger pressure. 

 

 

Tony,

 

Before continuing with painting a loco this afternoon I took a stroll down memory lane looking through the instructions for the old kits. 

 

As it is only some LMS/LNER loco kits I purchased it may be different for the other models, however, I found the first time using solder being noted was in the GEM kits which I cannot recall if it was the J36 or Atlantic which was produced first. That would be around 1973/4/5. On checking the Ks Black 5 and J72, glue was the order of the day. I came across a Millholme Unrebuilt Patriot from 1977, a Nu-Cast K2, Nu-Cast V2 and a Sutherland C16 from the same time, all of these note the use of solder.

 

The frightening aspect of this exercise is the perennial question which automatically sprung to mind is "where has the time gone"!

 

 

 

Eric

 

 

 

[Tony Wright]

Speaking of kit-built locos.......

 

These are the two given to me at Preston for sale on behalf of CRUK.

 

 

This is the K's Stanier Black Five (in company with more-typical LB motive power, some of which needs a dusting!). It's a bit scuffed (though not damaged - only paint missing in places), and, now, with a new motor/gearbox, it runs really well (as my visitors from yesterday will testify, I hope). I'll repaint it, and then see what it might be worth.

 

 

And the K's 'Princess Royal', depicting PRINCESS MARGARET ROSE in preserved condition. 46203 never carried LMS-style maroon in BR service, though it shouldn't be difficult to alter it to 46207/8 (46204 had the BR-style lining in maroon - did 46208?). The slidebar configuration doesn't suit 46200. I'll coal it (the bunker was just a void), but it goes very well now, after tweaking, cleaning and oiling. Just a couple of points - it won't negotiate curves under 3' (not a problem on LB) and, with it having a D11 motor, it's DCC-incompatible (again, not a problem on LB). 

 

Anyone interested, please PM me.

 

Something completely different.....

 

 

At the Glasgow Show, I was shown a range of etched nameplates/headboards. They're made by Silver Tay Models, and they're really good. The proprietor can be contacted on Silvertaymodels@gmail.com (I have no connection). 

 

By the way, the A1 is kit-built (soldered together by me!) and painted by Ian Rathbone. 

 

 

[Theakerr]

Re speed,  time really is an interesting dimension and IMHOP really is a personal choice.   So for my locos I base the speed on the valve train and con rod speed.  There are enough videos out there that show A4s, A3, etc running at 100 mph so that is fairly easy to replicate.  There are also many videos of the same coming into a station at say 5 MPH.  as well as others suggesting a speed of say 50 MPH.  Let the brain do a visual integration and you can just about replicate any speed so that it looks right.

[polybear]

6 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

Speaking of kit-built locos.......

 

These are the two given to me at Preston for sale on behalf of CRUK.

 

 

This is the K's Stanier Black Five (in company with more-typical LB motive power, some of which needs a dusting!). It's a bit scuffed (though not damaged - only paint missing in places), and, now, with a new motor/gearbox, it runs really well (as my visitors from yesterday will testify, I hope). I'll repaint it, and then see what it might be worth.

 

Absolutely - I had the pleasure of driving the Black Five on L.B. yesterday - Tony has fitted one of the new DJH (coreless?) Motor/Gearbox combinations and to say it was both very smooth and very quiet would be an understatement....

[Tony Wright]

Another visitor yesterday, Nick Logan..........

 

Nick's been before, and he always brings something he's made/making. 

 

He's relatively inexperienced and I've assisted him in his model-making. From looking at his progress, my future assistance is no longer required, or only in a small way! I'm delighted.

 

 

This loco has been seen before, and it was a first attempt at loco-building. He made it from a Jim McGowan kit, scaled down from 7mm. It's hauling a train of kit-built wagons.

 

 

This is his second loco kit; a DJH D20, representing a first-attempt at bow-pen lining. Highly-creditable, don't you think? The second (and many subsequent) loco kit(s) I ever built is/are probably buried by now! 

 

 

More wagons/vans under construction.

 

I find this sort of thing incredibly encouraging. Nick's quite young and learning his craft. He's becoming entirely self-reliant and prefers to make things rather than buy RTR or ask others to do his 'modelling' for him. His next project is a SE Finecast K3, so some help with the valve gear might be required, but not much I'm sure.

 

Thanks Nick, for bringing these, and also thanks for your donation to CRUK. Regarding the latter, I've been incredibly remiss in not thanking my guests from Wednesday for their most-generous donations to CRUK. May I thank you now, please? 

 

P.S. Visiting locos are not required to display lamps! 

 

 

 

 

Edited March 6, 2020 by Tony Wright
to clarify a point

[Tony Wright]

7 hours ago, polybear said:

 

Absolutely - I had the pleasure of driving the Black Five on L.B. yesterday - Tony has fitted one of the new DJH (coreless?) Motor/Gearbox combinations and to say it was both very smooth and very quiet would be an understatement....

Thanks Brian,

 

I have no idea whether the new DJH motors are coreless or not (though they're just a smooth as a Portescap, and much quieter). They're certainly a perfect substitute for the previous Mashimas.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[thegreenhowards]

2 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

Thanks Brian,

 

I have no idea whether the new DJH motors are coreless or not (though they're just a smooth as a Portescap, and much quieter). They're certainly a perfect substitute for the previous Mashimas.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

Tony,

 

Are these motors the ones DJH advertise on their website here https://www.djhmodelloco.co.uk/prodpage.asp?productid=3168 ?

 

If so, they seem to be quite expensive At £75 - definitely aiming at the Portescap end of the market. They were £60 a couple of years ago with Mashima motors. If they’re as good as you say, then a worthwhile option for some, but I think I’ll build my own or cannibalise an eBay purchase.

 

Andy

[Tony Wright]

5 minutes ago, thegreenhowards said:

Tony,

 

Are these motors the ones DJH advertise on their website here https://www.djhmodelloco.co.uk/prodpage.asp?productid=3168 ?

 

If so, they seem to be quite expensive At £75 - definitely aiming at the Portescap end of the market. They were £60 a couple of years ago with Mashima motors. If they’re as good as you say, then a worthwhile option for some, but I think I’ll build my own or cannibalise an eBay purchase.

 

Andy

Good morning Andy,

 

Yes they are, and they come in two sizes.

 

I've used both, in prototype form (where, if you recall, I was asked to test them) and now the production ones. They're brilliant (better than the Mashima-driven ones, actually), are super-smooth and incredibly quiet, powerful, fully-controllable and, being already made-up, dead easy to install.

 

Yes, at £75.00 they're not cheap, but are the equal of any Portescap I've used and you don't get the whine. 

 

I've recently made-up Branchline gearboxes and Comet gearboxes for installation in locos I've built (using up my stash of Mashimas), and, though they work well, none of them is as quiet or smooth as the latest DJH ones. All future builds of mine will use these latest DJH 'boxes. 

 

I should point out that though I work closely from time to time with DJH, I have no connection with the firm and do not receive a payment for my services (other than having the privilege of a trade account). 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[Erichill16]

2 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

Good morning Andy,

 

Yes they are, and they come in two sizes.

 

I've used both, in prototype form (where, if you recall, I was asked to test them) and now the production ones. They're brilliant (better than the Mashima-driven ones, actually), are super-smooth and incredibly quiet, powerful, fully-controllable and, being already made-up, dead easy to install.

 

Yes, at £75.00 they're not cheap, but are the equal of any Portescap I've used and you don't get the whine. 

 

I've recently made-up Branchline gearboxes and Comet gearboxes for installation in locos I've built (using up my stash of Mashimas), and, though they work well, none of them is as quiet or smooth as the latest DJH ones. All future builds of mine will use these latest DJH 'boxes. 

 

I should point out that though I work closely from time to time with DJH, I have no connection with the firm and do not receive a payment for my services (other than having the privilege of a trade account). 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

In the past I've used djh gearboxes and have always been happy. More recently I've be buying industrials where space is an issue and the kit includes a box and motor recommendation. When it was announced that mashima motors were being discontinued i bought enough of the correct types to complete my stash. When i get round to buying larger locos where motor/gearbox combinations are left to the builder I'll certainly give them a try. Ive a couple of locos with portescap motors and whilst they run a treat the noise is very annoying and sounds like something is under stress.

hope everyone gets Some modelling done over the weekend.

regards robert

[Tony Wright]

7 hours ago, Erichill16 said:

In the past I've used djh gearboxes and have always been happy. More recently I've be buying industrials where space is an issue and the kit includes a box and motor recommendation. When it was announced that mashima motors were being discontinued i bought enough of the correct types to complete my stash. When i get round to buying larger locos where motor/gearbox combinations are left to the builder I'll certainly give them a try. Ive a couple of locos with portescap motors and whilst they run a treat the noise is very annoying and sounds like something is under stress.

hope everyone gets Some modelling done over the weekend.

regards robert

Good evening Robert,

 

One 'problem' with the DJH 'boxes is their relatively large size. Fine in a big loco, but they can be visible in smaller ones. That said, when painted black, they're not too obtrusive, especially in a layout loco.

 

Out of general interest, it looks like the K's Black Five I featured has sold. 

 

Someone did express an interest in the Princess, until he realised the one he'd like was green.

 

Regards,

 

Tony.

[PupCam]

12 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

Nick's been before, and he always brings something he's made/making.

 

Hmm, maybe I feel an OO gauge Deltic project coming on?    Shall we say "Crepello"?   Heavily ballasted, high spec motors in nice shades of green with may be just a hint of yellow?

 

Just like I remember

 

 

 

I hope it doesn't take as long as my Triplane project!

 

Alan

 

Edited March 6, 2020 by PupCam

[Erichill16]

I’ve used the djh boxes in an 04 and J50, both relatively large locos. My next few projects are really upgrades to models I’ve built years ago and now show their age either cosmetically or running wise. Most of my models that look ok run badly and the ones that run ok look terrible!  I’ve just about got a J72 chassis kit to run ok under an original Palitoy body, but a bit of work needed on that. Next into works is likely to be a Millhome N5 I built 35 years ago. It runs quite well, with a MCCR 5 pole XO4 type motor and it’s the first loco kit I ever finished so deserves a bit of tlc. I’m not going to change the motor as it does work quite well and I don’t want to go backwards on that front!

regards Robert

 

[Erichill16]

Tony

Sorry but should have wished you good look with the Princess sale. If it was something Eastern Region........

Anyway have a good weekend,

regards Robert 

[96701]

37 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

 

Someone did express an interest in the Princess, until he realised the one he'd like was green.

 

Regards,

 

Tony.

Or better still, crimson lake..........