Wright writes.....

[Theakerr]

8 hours ago, ScRSG said:

Tony,

A question if I may. Working on a DJH A2/2 at the moment, it was one of the ones with pre-assembled valve gear and was originally supplied with wheels which had large crank pins already fitted (before DJH stopped supplying wheels) . So the valve gear is etched to suit with very large holes which will be far to big for standard Romford crank pins - any advice on how you may have solved this problem?

Thanks

Chas

Can you make a slide over bushing from a piece of tubing to fit over the Romford Crank Pin?

[Theakerr]

What Browser and OS are you and I who cannot see the pictures using?  When I was using Safari I had some problems like this from time to time.  I am  using MAC OS Mojave and Firefox now but it may be a similar issue. 

[65179]

I think something odd happened. I had to edit my post in reply to Tony (t-b-g) because Tony Wright's WD images were appearing in my post! After my edit I could still see them in Tony's post, but not now I return. Very strange!

 

Simon

[Willie Whizz]

23 hours ago, Northmoor said:

 

They all did, in my experience......

 

Indeed yes, the best-looking girls at school usually did have an 'older and bigger boyfriend'.  Not invariably, however ...

 

At my mixed-sex Local Authority grammar school, most of us lads were rather slow to take an interest - too familiar with what was under our noses every day to notice, I suppose.  But the 'penny dropped' in the Lower Sixth, and we all began to lust after a gorgeous girl (of Ukrainian extraction  IIRC) with long blonde hair, a wonderful figure, and a genuinely sweet personality.  We were all utterly stunned a few months later to learn  that she was going outwith a youth from the Upper Sixth who had, I kid you not, greasy crinkly hair and the very worst case of acne you've ever seen in your whole life; quite literally more spots than clear skin. 

 

"Why on Earth is H*** going out with HIM?", we asked one of the more approachable female classmates.

 

"Because she got fed up of waiting and waiting for any one of you timid twits to make a move!" came the reply.  Oh, how we cursed ourselves.

 

Sometimes you really did just need to have the nerve to actually ask!

 

(Though it helped also to have a thick skin to accept the rejections when it still didn't work, even then ...)

[polybear]

39 minutes ago, 65179 said:

I think something odd happened. I had to edit my post in reply to Tony (t-b-g) because Tony Wright's WD images were appearing in my post! After my edit I could still see them in Tony's post, but not now I return. Very strange!

 

Simon

 

So it's YOUR fault..... 

[Atso]

10 hours ago, grob1234 said:

Hello Tony,

 

It's been a while...

 

I've been browsing this topic for a few weeks now, and due to a lack of any model making related activity I haven't posted.

 

However, seeing your model of Minoru, inspired me to photograph my own interpretation of this locomotive. In a similar stage of construction, mine is from DJH, and will of course be finished in Green as no 2561.

 

I hope you and Mo are keeping well, and any nasty viruses are being kept at bay. Perhaps one day, both completed models can stand side by side on the metals of Little Bytham.

 

 

All the best,

Tom

 

 

Hi Tom,

 

Nice to see you posting again. Hopefully there is a new Youtube video in the works?

 

All the best

 

Steve

[ScRSG]

1 hour ago, Theakerr said:

Can you make a slide over bushing from a piece of tubing to fit over the Romford Crank Pin?

 

Thanks, I have, using a set of frame alignment jigs to solder the washers I found on to the coupling rods, so I am hopeful that this will work OK. My remaining concern will come when soldering crank pin washers etc. that this will not come adrift. I have used higher melt solder for the washers and will use 145 or 100 degree solder for the rest. Fingers crossed!

Chas

[gr.king]

12 hours ago, grob1234 said:

Hello Tony,

 

It's been a while...

 

I've been browsing this topic for a few weeks now, and due to a lack of any model making related activity I haven't posted.

 

However, seeing your model of Minoru, inspired me to photograph my own interpretation of this locomotive. In a similar stage of construction, mine is from DJH, and will of course be finished in Green as no 2561.

 

I hope you and Mo are keeping well, and any nasty viruses are being kept at bay. Perhaps one day, both completed models can stand side by side on the metals of Little Bytham.

 

 

All the best,

Tom

 

 

Blimey! I'm well behind the times. Welcome back Tom. Where have you been hiding?

[robmcg]

13 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

Not mine, of course, David,

 

But they're just how I saw these magnificent locos.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

 

Hello Tony, thanks again for your inspiring thread and the recent superb photos of A3s in late-BR days.

 

On the vexed subject of A3 valve gear geometry, especially the RTR 00 Hornby version, I know the downward tilt of the eccentric rod is extreme but was it it not sometimes evident regardless?  I suspect you are building one such valve gear arrangement this week and wonder about this Keith Pirt photo below showing a distinct downward-sloping rod, not entirely unlike the Hornby model ?

 

How tricky it must be to get this particular engine 'right' in this regard!

 

I can also see why the Hornby bogie wheels must annoy you.

 

I look forward to progress on your current 1959-60 'Minoru'. Thanks for your progress pictures, they are inspiring.

 

Picture by Keith Pirt, apologies for my poor reproduction of it.

 

Edited May 11, 2020 by robmcg
correction

[Woodcock29]

3 hours ago, johndon said:

 

Same here, they aren't appearing at all.

Likewise

[St Enodoc]

5 hours ago, polybear said:

Sadly Morrill is no more - it went very downhill in the last couple of issues and shut down soon afterwards

 

5 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

It's a pity MORILL disappeared, but that's the way it goes. After Iain Rice left, Jim Woods tried his best but it was not to be.

You're right about MORILL. I seem to recall it changed hands again and the final owners still owe me the best part of a year's subscription (plus interest?) due to publication ceasing about a month after they had taken my renewal money.

[St Enodoc]

4 hours ago, Willie Whizz said:

"Why on Earth is H*** going out with HIM?", we asked one of the more approachable female classmates.

Perhaps he had a bigger

 

.

 

.

 

.

 

.

 

.

 

.

 

.

 

.

 

car? bank balance? something else?

[t-b-g]

8 hours ago, robmcg said:

 

Hello Tony, thanks again for your inspiring thread and the recent superb photos of A3s in late-BR days.

 

On the vexed subject of A3 valve gear geometry, especially the RTR 00 Hornby version, I know the downward tilt of the eccentric rod is extreme but was it it not sometimes evident regardless?  I suspect you are building one such valve gear arrangement this week and wonder about this Keith Pirt photo below showing a distinct downward-sloping rod, not entirely unlike the Hornby model ?

 

How tricky it must be to get this particular engine 'right' in this regard!

 

I can also see why the Hornby bogie wheels must annoy you.

 

I look forward to progress on your current 1959-60 'Minoru'. Thanks for your progress pictures, they are inspiring.

 

Picture by Keith Pirt, apologies for my poor reproduction of it.

 

 

In that position of the driving wheels the return crank is almost vertical and so the rear end of the eccentric rod is as high up as it can get. In the opposite position, with the return crank pointing downwards, the eccentric rod should slope upwards, towards the front. With the crankpin at the bottom and the return crank pointing forward, the eccentric rod and the coupling rod are parallel as near as the eye can tell. It is at that position you should compare the Hornby valve gear to see where it goes wrong.

[Tony Wright]

7 hours ago, robmcg said:

 

Hello Tony, thanks again for your inspiring thread and the recent superb photos of A3s in late-BR days.

 

On the vexed subject of A3 valve gear geometry, especially the RTR 00 Hornby version, I know the downward tilt of the eccentric rod is extreme but was it it not sometimes evident regardless?  I suspect you are building one such valve gear arrangement this week and wonder about this Keith Pirt photo below showing a distinct downward-sloping rod, not entirely unlike the Hornby model ?

 

How tricky it must be to get this particular engine 'right' in this regard!

 

I can also see why the Hornby bogie wheels must annoy you.

 

I look forward to progress on your current 1959-60 'Minoru'. Thanks for your progress pictures, they are inspiring.

 

Picture by Keith Pirt, apologies for my poor reproduction of it.

 

Good morning Rob,

 

The angle of the eccentric rod is always dependent on the position of the cranks. 

 

The problem for Hornby is that it's either in this position or virtually dead straight. The front end of the eccentric rod is never higher (apart from the tiniest twitch) than the back end, as it is in reality. 

 

The pictures of the Hornby A3s have appeared before, but this topic keeps on occurring...

 

 

At top dead centre, the front end of the eccentric rod should be slightly higher than the rear. 

 

Like this.......

 

 

Dear old ISINGLASS is getting on a bit now (approaching her quarter century). I built this from an SEF kit, and Ian Rathbone painted it. She's been well-used (on Stoke Summit, Charwelton and Little Bytham - one of the front buffers has taken a knock) but still goes well. In many (most?) ways one could argue that the Hornby body is crisper and more-accurate (other than the superfluous wiggly pipe on this side of the smokebox), but it's the weird motion which lets it down, especially in motion.

 

 

At bottom dead centre, the eccentric rod angle is ridiculous. 

 

This is the angle it should be at.

 

 

I accept that not all want to build A3s; there are many who can't, and the Hornby A3 allows them to own a very good model (like many others, of course). It's just that there's a 'poetry in motion' appearance of Gresley gear as one of his Pacifics glides by; not something captured by the manic whirling of Hornby's A3 motion. Or, on some, there's hardly any motion at all. 

 

 

Not quite at bottom dead centre, but it illustrates the point. 

 

Regards,

 

Tony

 

 

[t-b-g]

The main fault, as I see it, is that the pivot in the motion bracket on the Hornby valve gear is too low and the curved expansion link is too long. So the bottom end of the expansion link has to come in front of the connecting rod when the crankpins are at the bottom of their travel. With that, plus the wrong way sloping return crank, it is one area that they could have done so much better on.

 

It is a shame as otherwise, the model looks really good.

 

I even bought one! I don't get much RTR stuff and I will never have a layout where it can run with a decent train but "Great Northern" in "as built" condition and GNR livery was too good looking to resist. I would never have got round to building an A1 but getting one in that livery and condition was one of those impulse purchases that many of us probably make from time to time.

 

It may get either converted to EM or maybe a new mechanism from Comet but until then, I can just enjoy looking at the best looking version of the best looking Pacific!

[gr.king]

Although they were highly breakable in the wrong hands, I thought the "full relief" moulded plastic cosmetic outer motion bracket plus a much more basic functional metal inner pivot of the original Triang Hornby Flying Scotsman produced a much better look to the motion bracket itself. On some of the Chinese super-detail loco-drive models the pivot for the expansion link is even lower than it absolutely has to be, simply because the stretcher for the horrible "thin shiny bent tin" bracket hasn't been formed to a shape that nips the bracket up tight under the running plate.

Had the motion bracket been a refined version of the old example, had the expansion link been shorter, and had the motion been made of somewhat thicker metal in places, several disappointing features in a fine model would have been avoided.

[45568]

On 09/05/2020 at 20:20, 45568 said:

To Doug & St. Enodoc, with apologies to Mr Wright for hijacking his thread...I will have a look at my spray can paint palette in the next couple of days and put in my suggestions. I have tried many car sprays, with mixed results, I do envy the b*ggers in UK with 'damask red' etc.

 The Mr Hobby 'russet' was worth a go I thought, and overall I am very pleased with the result. It is also compatible with Tamiya varnishes..that opens another can of worms!

Cheers from Fortress West,

Peter C.

Wow, four pages gone since I said I would reply, however, Mother's Day has been and gone and it was good to spend it with family in a legal gathering!

Tamiya spray colour chart below.

https://www.tamiya.com/english/products/list/tamiya_spray/kit85001.htm

Regarding Tamiya spray colours, I use the following regularly:

TS-1 is good for interior of steel mineral wagons prior to further weathering.

TS-4 & 48 are excellent for coach and van roofs.

TS-9 A good 'Brunswick' green.

TS-11 BR Maroon coaches.

TS-6 &  29 are excellent black paint for BR locos.

TS-32 good for 'early' (darker) BR wagon grey.

TS-62 & 69 are good track/underframe weathering colours. Also may be good for GWR brown vehicles and SR brown stock.

TS-68 good for 'unpainted' wooden wagons.

TS-81 is good for later (lighter) BR wagon grey.

TS13,79,80. Excellent varnishes which are fully compatible with the above paints. CCT transfers do not like them however, unless you have put a coat of Klear/pledge to protect the decals!

Fine surface finisher/primer makes an excellent BR fitted wagon Bauxite.

I am looking at using TS-46 and TS-8 to represent faded 'Carmine/cream' on coaches.

MR. Color spray 81, Russet, as mentioned above is good for faded carmine as shown, I have not tried any others yet.

Humbrol offer #20 Crimson as a spray, I have used the colour from a tin for as-new crimson stock, but the spray was out of stock so I have not tried it.

Car sprays: I have used Ford?? Venus Red & Hermitage as crimson for coaches, also Milano Red for faded 'blood', I can't remember what I used for cream!, but I haven't looked in a car part shop for a while now so I'm not sure what is available.

The big gap is anything suitable for DMU or SR coaching stock green. I have used TS-43 which matches the later Bachmann BR/SR green, but is not close to the current Hornby colour.

Illustrating the difference between the two Tamiya wagon greys, in very bright sunlight, the light grey isn't that white!

Tamiya finisher/primer red as BR Bauxite below.

Hope our Antipodean modellers find this useful, (also modellers elsewhere as Tamiya seems to be available worldwide). Any further suggestions welcome..except you pommie blokes don't make us jealous with your endless list of Halfords exact matches!

Cheers from slightly-relaxing Fortress WestOz,

Peter C.

 

 

[St Enodoc]

Thanks Peter. I'll add those to my list.

 

As far as car paints are concerned, the only ones I've found that really satisfy me are Holts Hermitage DSF43 for BR crimson, like you, and Chianti Red DSC63 for BR Maroon. I haven't found a good BR cream so far - I have thought about Holts Beige Sahara DST59, only because I used to use Ford Sahara Beige in the UK, but I haven't tried it yet.

[TrevorP1]

1 hour ago, 45568 said:

Wow, four pages gone since I said I would reply, however, Mother's Day has been and gone and it was good to spend it with family in a legal gathering!

Tamiya spray colour chart below.

https://www.tamiya.com/english/products/list/tamiya_spray/kit85001.htm

Regarding Tamiya spray colours, I use the following regularly:

TS-1 is good for interior of steel mineral wagons prior to further weathering.

TS-4 & 48 are excellent for coach and van roofs.

TS-9 A good 'Brunswick' green.

TS-11 BR Maroon coaches.

TS-6 &  29 are excellent black paint for BR locos.

TS-32 good for 'early' (darker) BR wagon grey.

TS-62 & 69 are good track/underframe weathering colours. Also may be good for GWR brown vehicles and SR brown stock.

TS-68 good for 'unpainted' wooden wagons.

TS-81 is good for later (lighter) BR wagon grey.

TS13,79,80. Excellent varnishes which are fully compatible with the above paints. CCT transfers do not like them however, unless you have put a coat of Klear/pledge to protect the decals!

Fine surface finisher/primer makes an excellent BR fitted wagon Bauxite.

I am looking at using TS-46 and TS-8 to represent faded 'Carmine/cream' on coaches.

MR. Color spray 81, Russet, as mentioned above is good for faded carmine as shown, I have not tried any others yet.

Humbrol offer #20 Crimson as a spray, I have used the colour from a tin for as-new crimson stock, but the spray was out of stock so I have not tried it.

Car sprays: I have used Ford?? Venus Red & Hermitage as crimson for coaches, also Milano Red for faded 'blood', I can't remember what I used for cream!, but I haven't looked in a car part shop for a while now so I'm not sure what is available.

The big gap is anything suitable for DMU or SR coaching stock green. I have used TS-43 which matches the later Bachmann BR/SR green, but is not close to the current Hornby colour.

 

 

 

 

 

Many thanks for the help there. I was about to order some paint so decided to give these a try. I used a Tamiya spray on an American coach a few years back and it went very well so the list of some British railway options is welcome.

 

[juke]

Pocketmags have a back issues sale ending today - 99p each. BRM and RM and some real rail mags included.

 

Little Bytham in RM is there!

 

Syd

[CUTLER2579]

Tony,

a mutual friend stated that one of his A1's was not appropriate for the 1958 period on which Peterborough North is based.                            He stated

"there has been a slight step back in time.  60139 Sea Eagle is coming in with a Hull express, but this can't be August 58, as 60139 by then had a different boiler fitted by then". 

My question for yourself or any one who knows the answer is , Visually what are the differences pleas. I am assuming we are talking Diagram 117 & 118 boilers, so the Dome has been covered by a dummy banjo,but I am guessing to be honest.

I confess that I always assumed that the Peppercorn A1's all had the same 118 type of  boiler throughout their short lives.

Regards,

Derek.

Edited May 11, 2020 by CUTLER2579

[grob1234]

20 hours ago, Atso said:

 

Hi Tom,

 

Nice to see you posting again. Hopefully there is a new Youtube video in the works?

 

All the best

 

Steve

 

Hi Steve, it has been well over a year since the last video... I don't really want to rush into it...

 

18 hours ago, gr.king said:

 

Blimey! I'm well behind the times. Welcome back Tom. Where have you been hiding?

 

Hello Graeme. A classic case of real life getting in the way of model trains. Now I'm in the process of finishing off my new workshop I may venture out from my hiding spot!

[chris p bacon]

9 minutes ago, grob1234 said:

Now I'm in the process of finishing off my new workshop I may venture out from my hiding spot!

 

With all this time away I thought you might have finished 'Bawtry' 

 

[Tony Wright]

3 hours ago, CUTLER2579 said:

Tony,

a mutual friend stated that one of his A1's was not appropriate for the 1958 period on which Peterborough North is based.                            He stated

"there has been a slight step back in time.  60139 Sea Eagle is coming in with a Hull express, but this can't be August 58, as 60139 by then had a different boiler fitted by then". 

My question for yourself or any one who knows the answer is , Visually what are the differences pleas. I am assuming we are talking Diagram 117 & 118 boilers, so the Dome has been covered by a dummy banjo,but I am guessing to be honest.

I confess that I always assumed that the Peppercorn A1's all had the same 118 type of  boiler throughout their short lives.

Regards,

Derek.

Good evening Derek,

 

Because all of Gilbert's A1s are Bachmann ones, they've all got Peppercorn Dia.118 boilers (I don't think Tim Easter has altered any). 

 

Several A1s got Thompson Dia.117 boilers (ex-A2/3s), resulting in the dome being moved forward. On the A2/3s this was covered by a round dome (the 117 boilers didn't have a perforated steam collector - yet another Gresley feature disliked by Thompson). With one exception (60153), those A1s which received 117 boilers had the round dome covered by a streamlined dome (not a 'banjo' dome - can we have this myth debunked forever, please? The only LNER Pacifics to carry a banjo dome were the last-built A3s, and then only until their first boiler change - henceforth it was a streamlined dome, not 'peardrop'-shaped). 

 

A few A2s also got 117 boilers as well, and one A2/2. Those A2s which did received a round dome (60505 had a streamlined dome). 

 

Eric Kidd has altered at least one of his Bachmann A2s. It can be done, with care.

 

The difference is the dome's position - further forward on the Thompson boilers.................

 

My ALACAR is fitted with one. 

 

 

 

I built this from a DJH kit, and Ian Rathbone painted it. Note the dome's position on the second boiler ring. Of course, by building a kit (rather than being RTR-reliant) one can stick the dome wherever one wishes.

 

For comparison......

 

 

Another DJH/Wright/Rathbone creation, this time carrying a Dia.118 boiler, with the dome on the third ring.

 

A further difference is that this one represents a Doncaster-built example (with snaphead rivets). ALCAZAR represents a Darlington-built example, with countersunk rivets.

 

And, just to illustrate a streamlined dome.................

 

 

The bodywork is now complete on my latest SEF A3.

 

I've started on the valve gear, so it should be finished tomorrow. 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

 

P.S. Just to further complicated matters, all of the A2/3s and four of the A2/2s eventually received Peppercorn Dia.118 boilers! The two types were entirely interchangeable. 

Edited May 11, 2020 by Tony Wright
to clarify a point

[grob1234]

1 hour ago, chris p bacon said:

 

With all this time away I thought you might have finished 'Bawtry' 

 

 

I've almost had enough time to build a 1:1 model of it, let alone a 4mm scale version!