Wright writes.....

[MJI]

1 hour ago, Jesse Sim said:

 I must be getting old if I’m getting excited about a discounted soldering iron..........

 

 

No it is a tool, this is completely normal for any person of our type.

 

I find buying tools a lot more fun than clothes.

 

There are a lot of things to be excited about, a new TV, a new car or bike, tools is in that area.

Edited July 27, 2020 by MJI

[Headstock]

9 hours ago, Michael Edge said:

The bottom of the boiler is well below the raised running plates over the cylinders, don't forget these were only outside the frames, boilers often sit down between them. The original LSW height to chimney top was nearly 13'3" but in Southern days this was reduced to 12' 11 1/2" - i.e. a shade under 52mm in this scale. In my experience most modellers (and many kit designers) don't pay much attention to height or width dimensions.

 

Good afternoon Mike,

 

I know nothing (Jon Snow) about the S15, except the occasionally made it as far north as Leicester. I have traveled behind a preserved one. On that occasion, the coal was so poor that Fireman had to dismount and cut up a small tree and feed it into the firebox. It took some time to get home that evening. As well as being a wood burner, that example had a later style of  flush running board, hence the duff comparison.

 

8 hours ago, Adam said:

 

To give a sense of exactly what is wrong with the DJH S15 and the work required to get a loco that looks like one (a Maunsell example in this case) you could do worse than to take a look at Andy Avis's thread on his effort:

 

 

I remember talking to Andy about this before he started and even then we were of the view that it was a dog of a kit. Hats off for his persistence however.

 

Adam

 

Well Adam,

 

that's off my Christmas shopping list.

[Headstock]

5 hours ago, Barry Ten said:

 

Well spotted. I sprayed the loco with Railmatch olive, then brush painted the cylinders with Precision olive, but they're very different shades. I later

redid them. I forget which is olive, dark olive, light olive etc. I think it's the least of the engine's problems!

 

Apologies Al,

 

I called you Barry, early morning post lockdown delirium. I'm sure I have also seen black cylinders but the Moon could be cheese.

[LNER4479]

2 hours ago, Jesse Sim said:

Thanks to all regarding the soldering iron, I’ve found one at a tool shop for 300 bucks, bargain considering I paid 200 for the 25w one from Jaycar (bunch of knobs they are). I know more about electrical stuff then these so called “electronic store workers” and that’s saying something. Good thing about where I’m going to buy this soldering iron from, Total Tools, is that I have a discount card- I must be getting old if I’m getting excited about a discounted soldering iron..........

Blimey Jesse, can't you sleep? That post must've been 2 or 3 in the morning in Oz 

Edited July 27, 2020 by LNER4479

[Headstock]

I'm possibly thinking about posting some pictures between now and the New Year. Can anybody tell me how you do that thing were the text is linked to the relevant picture. I can't do it, Tony can, thus it can't be that hard to master.

Edited July 27, 2020 by Headstock

[Corbs]

1 hour ago, Headstock said:

I'm possibly thinking about posting some pictures between now and the New Year. Can anybody tell me how you do that thing were the text is linked to the relevant picture. I can't do it, Tony can, thus it can't be that hard to master.

 

I think I understand your question.

You need to upload the images by clicking 'choose files'.

 

 

Then it appears under the box where you write, like this.

 

 

Put the text cursor where you want the image to be inserted into the text, then click the picture thumbnail in the 'uploaded images' area.*

 

If you don't choose a place to insert the picture, it automatically gets added to the end of your post.

 

Deleting the picture from the post in the text box does not stop it from being posted, if you uploaded the wrong image and want to delete it, you need to click the yellow bin icon that appears on the thumbnail.

 

Hope this is useful/answers your question.

 

 

*Make sure the cursor is on its own line and not on the same line as a sentence, because it will format weirdly otherwise.

Edited July 27, 2020 by Corbs

[Headstock]

6 hours ago, Corbs said:

 

I think I understand your question.

You need to upload the images by clicking 'choose files'.

 

 

 

Then it appears under the box where you write, like this.

 

 

 

Put the text cursor where you want the image to be inserted into the text, then click the picture thumbnail in the 'uploaded images' area.*

 

If you don't choose a place to insert the picture, it automatically gets added to the end of your post.

 

Deleting the picture from the post in the text box does not stop it from being posted, if you uploaded the wrong image and want to delete it, you need to click the yellow bin icon that appears on the thumbnail.

 

Hope this is useful/answers your question.

 

 

*Make sure the cursor is on its own line and not on the same line as a sentence, because it will format weirdly otherwise.

 

Corbs,

 

thanks very much for your reply, it all sounds quite logical, I shall give it a try.

 

Quick update,

 

I just tried it out, it worked a treat.

 

Thanks again, you are a star.

Edited July 27, 2020 by Headstock
Update.

[grob1234]

Hello all,

 

Just a quick question for you RE Markits wheels, before I place my order.

 

What do people use for 3' 8" 10 spoke LNER bogey/pony wheels?

 

There's a 3' 9" MR version that's 10 spoke but I can't remember what I used to order! I can't see an LNER 3'8" 10 spoke wheel on their website.

 

It's for the Mike Trice V2 I'm making.

 

[Jack P]

12 hours ago, Jesse Sim said:

A question if I may? 
 

I have a 25w soldering iron that is just fine for white metal, however I find it doesn’t quite have the get up and go for brass kits. Tony has told me that a 50w iron will be much better, but my question is, would a 70w soldering iron station be okay? Or would it be too much for the brass kits? 
 

I will still use my 25w for the white metal kits.

 

Thanks in advance

 

Jesse 

 

I recently went from an no-name, ebay special 40w temp controlled iron, to a Hakko FX-888D. 

 

The difference is night and day. The 70w Hakko takes all of 10 seconds to come up to temp, and the extra wattage means I never run out of grunt. 

 

You won't regret it! 

[Jamiel]

8 hours ago, MJI said:

 

I NEED a 120

 

Very nice

 

don't let me near it or it will become a blue grey WR set.

 

I need to find a set of those etches myself.

 

Hi MJI

 

It might be worth asking Worsley Works about making a Class 120 set of etches, at the bottom of their page for BR DMUs. EMUs and carriages, it says

‘The range can be increased. If there is a particular coach you are looking for please let us know.’

 

http://www.worsleyworks.co.uk/4mm/4mm_BR.htm

I have just got a set of Class 124 etches for a future project from them which look very good. They might be more accurate than the Craftsman etches on which the door tops are a little low, which causes problems when adding lining. That said other than the top of the doors, the Craftsman etches are very nice to work with, a few holes drilled for fuel points and a little filing of the guard’s door bottom.

 

There is also a thread for Craftsman etches where people post Ebay listings they have spotted, and sometimes people get in contact about spare sets they wish to sell, which is how I got the Class 120 etches myself.

https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/97228-craftsman-detailing-kits/page/8/

 

Good luck, although I think I read that a Class 120 is planned for N gauge (I can’t remember where), and if that happens an OO Gauge one will soon follow. As has been said many times on this thread, no sooner do you finish making one yourself, than a RTR one appears a couple of months later. It has only happened to me five times in the last few years.

Jamie

Edited July 27, 2020 by Jamiel

[Atso]

23 hours ago, 65179 said:

 

If you are not happy with the windows Steve have you tried either scoring lines in the glazing and filling them with paint or using a mapping pen? I know a number of 2mm modellers have use the former approach and Matthew Wald has used the latter for the latest of his masterpieces for Copenhagen Fields (he did an article on his most recent CF box for a recent 2mm Magazine).

 

Simon

 

Thank you very much Simon,

 

Funnily enough, I picked up a random copy of the 2mm Magazine last night and found that exact article. I think I'll try Matthew's method and compare the two - I can certainly get a finer line using a bow/ruling pen when I'm lining out locos and coaches.

 

I hope Tony doesn't mind, but I've attached a couple more photos of last night's and this morning's progress.

 

 

 

However, this afternoon was taken up with a field trip to the real Hadley Wood station to measure up what is left.

 

 

 

More than I expected and some useful clues were gained regarding the overall size of the original station building and waiting rooms.

 

Edited July 27, 2020 by Atso

[Tony Wright]

2 hours ago, grob1234 said:

Hello all,

 

Just a quick question for you RE Markits wheels, before I place my order.

 

What do people use for 3' 8" 10 spoke LNER bogey/pony wheels?

 

There's a 3' 9" MR version that's 10 spoke but I can't remember what I used to order! I can't see an LNER 3'8" 10 spoke wheel on their website.

 

It's for the Mike Trice V2 I'm making.

 

Good evening Tom,

 

You need an LNER 3' 2" 10-spoke front pony wheel for a V2. The 3' 9" will do fine for the Cartazzi, although clearances can be a bit tight. I've been known on occasions to use another 3' 2" pair should that be the case; they can't really be seen, anyway. 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[Tony Wright]

6 minutes ago, Atso said:

 

Thank you very much Simon,

 

Funnily enough, I picked up a random copy of the 2mm Magazine last night and found that exact article. I think I'll try Matthew's method and compare the two - I can certainly get a finer line using a bow/ruling pen when I'm lining out locos and coaches.

 

I hope Tony doesn't mind, but I've attached a couple more photos of last night's and this morning's progress.

 

 

 

However, this afternoon was taken up with a file trip to the real Hadley Wood station to measure up what is left.

 

 

 

More than I expected and some useful clues were gained regarding the overall size of the original station building and waiting rooms.

 

'I hope Tony doesn't mind,'

 

Mind? 

 

I'm delighted!

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[Tony Wright]

11 hours ago, great central said:

 

I think it's all to easy to be dispirited by other people's standards. There are some very fine models shown on the internet nowadays, many of them on this very thread. There are also many not so great models shown that, nonetheless, the builder is proud of, but can be then totally deflated by some people's comments.

I've nothing against constructive criticism but that can very easily be interpreted wrongly if not carefully phrased, the typed word carries nothing more than the letters used, no emotional input.

If you say to someone's face ' that's rubbish' but with a smile it's usually taken lightly as intended, type it and it's just taken as 'rubbish' and totally demoralising.

Over 40 or so years I've assembled many kits although my output has dwindled to virtually zero in the last few years, party due to the rise of RTR but also a lack of somewhere to run anything, the last reliable one was probably a DJH 9F over 15 years ago!

We can now also examine models in minute detail thanks to digital cameras and the capacity to zoom in on anything, obviously subject to the limits imposed by the technology in use, therefore seeing the slightest blemish. 

There are some models shown here that seem to be generally approved of, yet I look at the photo and see something that looks odd, whether others don't notice I know not but they don't seem to attract comments. Perhaps it's distortion as I use my phone almost exclusively now for the internet, our PC has pretty much given up the ghost and I can take my phone with me.

What I'm trying to say, and probably waffling instead, is everyone should set their own standards that they're happy with and accept the compromises they have to make. Equally others, while offering advice and observations, should accept the original builder's standards without harsh criticism.

Let's face it most of the models on this thread are running on narrower gauge track than the prototype, around corners that are totally unfeasible and they've got a ruddy great electric motor in the boiler! 

 

A very wise post,

 

Many thanks GC.

 

On balance, I think most folk take on board constructive criticism and learn and improve from it. I know I do. 

 

I've not noticed 'harsh criticism' on Wright Writes (unless others think my comments constitute that at times), and most commentators are more than happy to help. 

 

But 'criticism comes with the territory', whether that be showing work on here, in the press or (until last March) at shows. 

 

I suppose my take on it comes from having been a teacher (starting 50 years ago; I can't believe it!). In my view it does no good to be constantly showering mediocre work with praise (not that there's anything mediocre on this thread). Or giving praise when very little is the work of the person being praised (unless he/she ALWAYS acknowledges others' input).

 

I'd much sooner see the work of someone who's had a go (like yourself) and made something for themselves; no matter if it's 'inferior' to the latest piece of RTR wonderment, or not up to the standard of the professionals. So what? It's personal work, and that's always worthy of praise.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[thegreenhowards]

13 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

Good evening Tom,

 

You need an LNER 3' 2" 10-spoke front pony wheel for a V2. The 3' 9" will do fine for the Cartazzi, although clearances can be a bit tight. I've been known on occasions to use another 3' 2" pair should that be the case; they can't really be seen, anyway. 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

Tony,

 

You mentioned I needed 10 spoke 14mm wheels for my C2 bogie but, like Tom, I can’t see them in the Markits Catalogue. Where did you get yours from?

 

Andy

[Tony Wright]

1 minute ago, thegreenhowards said:

Tony,

 

You mentioned I needed 10 spoke 14mm wheels for my C2 bogie but, like Tom, I can’t see them in the Markits Catalogue. Where did you get yours from?

 

Andy

Good evening Andy,

 

I think I've mis-informed you. They're probably the Southern ten-spoke bogie wheel (which, to all intents and purposes, is the same as the LNER type), at a twitch over 14mm. 

 

When I order from Markits, I just say 'I need a full set of wheels for a C2, please', or whatever class I'm building. 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[Jack P]

7 minutes ago, thegreenhowards said:

Tony,

 

You mentioned I needed 10 spoke 14mm wheels for my C2 bogie but, like Tom, I can’t see them in the Markits Catalogue. Where did you get yours from?

 

Andy

 

I recently obtained some 10spk 14mm bogie wheels for my SECR L from Alan Gibson

[MJI]

2 hours ago, Jamiel said:

 

Hi MJI

 

It might be worth asking Worsley Works about making a Class 120 set of etches, at the bottom of their page for BR DMUs. EMUs and carriages, it says

‘The range can be increased. If there is a particular coach you are looking for please let us know.’

 

http://www.worsleyworks.co.uk/4mm/4mm_BR.htm

I have just got a set of Class 124 etches for a future project from them which look very good. They might be more accurate than the Craftsman etches on which the door tops are a little low, which causes problems when adding lining. That said other than the top of the doors, the Craftsman etches are very nice to work with, a few holes drilled for fuel points and a little filing of the guard’s door bottom.

 

There is also a thread for Craftsman etches where people post Ebay listings they have spotted, and sometimes people get in contact about spare sets they wish to sell, which is how I got the Class 120 etches myself.

https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/97228-craftsman-detailing-kits/page/8/

 

Good luck, although I think I read that a Class 120 is planned for N gauge (I can’t remember where), and if that happens an OO Gauge one will soon follow. As has been said many times on this thread, no sooner do you finish making one yourself, than a RTR one appears a couple of months later. It has only happened to me five times in the last few years.

Jamie

 

 

I've been waiting 40 years so I will just make one I think.

[St Enodoc]

7 hours ago, LNER4479 said:

Blimey Jesse, can't you sleep? That post must've been 2 or 3 in the morning in Oz 

Erm, just before 11 pm. AEST = BST+9 (it's nearly 0830  on Tuesday as I type this).

[Tom F]

Good evening Tony.

I've been enjoying re-reading about a favourite line of mine, the Waverley Route. I've had the sound of V2's climbing through Steele Road blasting out of my car speakers today!

I'm interested in the chimney arrangements on 60813 of St Margaret's. I had a look in the Peter Costa book, and it seems that nobody knows why the arrangement was added. The addition doesn't seem to have effected her as she retained it. I wondered if you or anyone here knows anymore about her?

I have admit it's one I think I'd quite like to model.

 

 

 

 

Edited July 27, 2020 by Hawin Dooiey

[Jesse Sim]

8 hours ago, LNER4479 said:

Blimey Jesse, can't you sleep? That post must've been 2 or 3 in the morning in Oz 

It was around 11pm-12am last night, I either needed 6 hours sleep or 12, there’s no in between. 

[Jesse Sim]

2 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

'I hope Tony doesn't mind,'

 

Mind? 

 

I'm delighted!

 

 

Unless we say stuff like glueing kits together is better DCC is the way to go and if you don’t use proper grammar stuff like commas and full stops and all that Jazz 

[robertcwp]

8 hours ago, MJI said:

 

 

I've been waiting 40 years so I will just make one I think.

I was lucky to find this one on sale second hand about 20 years ago:

P1080217am by Robert Carroll, on Flickr

 

It's a basic Craftsman conversion of a Lima 117 and no attempt has been made to lower it to correct height, but it looks OK on the layout:

 

Even better, Brian Kirby spotted this in the Hattons second hand for under £200:

P1070630am by Robert Carroll, on Flickr

 

There is a strong suspicion that this is the demonstration model built for photos to advertise the conversion kits. It was subsequently sold by a model shop. Same issues as the blue/grey one but this one is finished to a better standard.

 

Edited July 28, 2020 by robertcwp
Correction.

[Clem]

7 hours ago, Hawin Dooiey said:

I've been enjoying re-reading about a favourite line of mine, the Waverley Route. I've had the sound of V2's climbing through Steele Road blasting out of my car speakers today!

I'm interested in the chimney arrangements on 60813 of St Margaret's. I had a look in the Peter Costa book, and it seems that nobody knows why the arrangement was added. The addition doesn't seem to have effected her as she retained it. I wondered if you or anyone here knows anymore about her?

I have admit it's one I think I'd quite like to model.

 

Good morning Hawin.

I remember seeing 60813 in Cowlairs in April 1966 in a seemingly sad state. (see photo below - sorry about the rubbish standard of my photography at the time!). Surprisingly, she was put back together and sent to Dundee for a final 6 months. 

 

The thing that interests me from your post is the close up of *that* chimney. It appears to have a bog standard austerity chimney! I always thought it was a plain stovepipe chimney. Not an improvement in looks but it certainly made 60813 a stand out locomotive!

I think I'd saw her in August the same year in better condition,  but didn't photo her.

 

[Tony Wright]

8 hours ago, Hawin Dooiey said:

Good evening Tony.

I've been enjoying re-reading about a favourite line of mine, the Waverley Route. I've had the sound of V2's climbing through Steele Road blasting out of my car speakers today!

I'm interested in the chimney arrangements on 60813 of St Margaret's. I had a look in the Peter Costa book, and it seems that nobody knows why the arrangement was added. The addition doesn't seem to have effected her as she retained it. I wondered if you or anyone here knows anymore about her?

I have admit it's one I think I'd quite like to model.

 

 

 

 

Good morning Tom,

 

The funny smoke deflector has always been a bit of a mystery. As you say, Peter Coster can't shed light on it. 

 

One can assume it was a 'success', because it was never removed, but not enough of a success to have the whole class so-fitted. In fact, any single-chimney LNER locos seemed not to need any deflecting devices; it was only after double Kylchaps were fitted that deflectors became necessary (by far the most-effective, the 'German' kind on the A3s). Regarding these 'blinkers', had steam survived longer and all the V2s received double Kylchaps, might we have seen all the big Prairies fitted with them?

 

Regards,

 

Tony.