Wright writes.....

[MikeParkin65]

3 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

Mainly spoked, Mike................

 

 

Anyway, more progress today. 

 

The boiler/firebox/cab were merely plonked in place for yesterday's shot; they're all now securely soldered in place. 

 

It runs really well.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

 

 

45428 on the North York Moors Railway has at least one disc wheel on its tender. It was direct from BR service and I dont think this is a preservation era change. 

[seahorse]

At one time in the 90's at Ingrow, the tender for Bahamas had disc front axle and two spoked. 

[t-b-g]

57 minutes ago, queensquare said:

 

I suspect Langbridge but not sure. I've posted the clip in the 2mm 'any questions' thread so hopefully will get some answers. 

Out of interest, how much of theBuckingham shown in the clip is still in use today - 72 years on.

 

Jerry

 

The loco, stock and some of the buildings survive and it is possible that the track, which was laid on a removable sub base, survived to be used again. The carriages were repainted into brown and cream not long after the clip was filmed.

 

I wonder how much other lovely stuff was filmed and ended up on the cutting room floor?

[chris p bacon]

1 hour ago, grob1234 said:

I see where I'm going wrong now....

 

I should wear a suit and tie whilst making my models!

Plus fours for grouping, a top hat for pre-grouping. 

[Clearwater]

7 minutes ago, chris p bacon said:

Plus fours for grouping, a top hat for pre-grouping. 

 

Looking at those pathe films, some of the demonstrators would have been around in pre-grouping times....

[Northmoor]

27 minutes ago, Clearwater said:

 

Looking at those pathe films, some of the demonstrators would have been around in pre-grouping times....

I bet some were complaining that there was, "No variety on the railways these days, all the locos look the same".  Modern Image was an A4.... 

[Theakerr]

Gentlemen, I am about to embark on the point rodding install journey.  I live in the Great White North, which as I type is turning white, and therefore cannot see any actual product examples.  So before I start I would greatly appreciate the collective knowledge of this thread.   As background, my track is all ballasted but I have a nice cinder drain at the edge of the ballast as per good LNER/BR practice and my intent at this point is to run the rodding to the track and not bother about going under rails etc.   My research suggests there are 4 suppliers.  First is the Wills.  The still pictures suggest it looks very good but based on comments on this thread it is way overscale.  The next is MSE.  The range looks very comprehensive, it is the one Tony used but it does look very fiddly.  The third on the list is ModelU.  The range is limited to the stools but they do look very nice.   Finally there is DCC concepts.  Since my rodding will be cosmetic it seems a bit of an overkill.

[St Enodoc]

4 minutes ago, Theakerr said:

Gentlemen, I am about to embark on the point rodding install journey.  I live in the Great White North, which as I type is turning white, and therefore cannot see any actual product examples.  So before I start I would greatly appreciate the collective knowledge of this thread.   As background, my track is all ballasted but I have a nice cinder drain at the edge of the ballast as per good LNER/BR practice and my intent at this point is to run the rodding to the track and not bother about going under rails etc.   My research suggests there are 4 suppliers.  First is the Wills.  The still pictures suggest it looks very good but based on comments on this thread it is way overscale.  The next is MSE.  The range looks very comprehensive, it is the one Tony used but it does look very fiddly.  The third on the list is ModelU.  The range is limited to the stools but they do look very nice.   Finally there is DCC concepts.  Since my rodding will be cosmetic it seems a bit of an overkill.

Brassmasters:

 

http://www.brassmasters.co.uk/track_details.htm

[manna]

11 hours ago, robertcwp said:

Much more pleasing on the eye than this thing:

60506_Undated by Robert Carroll, on Flickr

G'day Folks

 

Why am I thinking 'Tempsford' ?????

 

manna

[chris p bacon]

12 minutes ago, manna said:

G'day Folks

 

Why am I thinking 'Tempsford' ?????

 

manna

It's not Tempsford Manna, there is no track or roadway that runs alongside just the 2 level crossings (Everton & Tempsford)

 

There is a roadway at Sandy though, Brickhill road runs alongside for 3/4 of a mile on the East side.

https://www.google.co.uk/maps/@52.1341324,-0.2822156,465m/data=!3m1!1e3

 

Looking at a 1950 map you can see the signal post and line side P'way building.

 

Looking at the topography on the left (West) I'd say it was taken at Sandy.

 

 

[manna]

2 hours ago, chris p bacon said:

It's not Tempsford Manna, there is no track or roadway that runs alongside just the 2 level crossings (Everton & Tempsford)

 

There is a roadway at Sandy though, Brickhill road runs alongside for 3/4 of a mile on the East side.

https://www.google.co.uk/maps/@52.1341324,-0.2822156,465m/data=!3m1!1e3

 

Looking at a 1950 map you can see the signal post and line side P'way building.

 

Looking at the topography on the left (West) I'd say it was taken at Sandy.

 

 

G'Day Folks

 

Close, it had the Feel, of the area. Also a unusual place to see in a photo. ( quite rare)

 

manna

[Tony Wright]

15 hours ago, Barry O said:

Stanier tender wheels, spoked with Bevel rims..

 

Now Tony is this a short or long wheelbase Black 5? Is it an Armstrong Whitworth built loco or from somewhere else.. top feed or dome or a different dome...

 

Model Loco

 

Ks

 

Comet

 

 

and Hornby have a chassis on their Black 5 allowing for the long wheelbase or original wheelbase to be portrayed

 

 

BAz

Good morning Baz,

 

According to Model Loco, it's an Amstrong Whitworth-built example (presumably with the shorter wheelbase). 

 

It came with a flush-sided tender, but there was much swapping among the class over the years. 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[Tony Wright]

9 hours ago, Theakerr said:

Gentlemen, I am about to embark on the point rodding install journey.  I live in the Great White North, which as I type is turning white, and therefore cannot see any actual product examples.  So before I start I would greatly appreciate the collective knowledge of this thread.   As background, my track is all ballasted but I have a nice cinder drain at the edge of the ballast as per good LNER/BR practice and my intent at this point is to run the rodding to the track and not bother about going under rails etc.   My research suggests there are 4 suppliers.  First is the Wills.  The still pictures suggest it looks very good but based on comments on this thread it is way overscale.  The next is MSE.  The range looks very comprehensive, it is the one Tony used but it does look very fiddly.  The third on the list is ModelU.  The range is limited to the stools but they do look very nice.   Finally there is DCC concepts.  Since my rodding will be cosmetic it seems a bit of an overkill.

When the Wills point rodding was introduced, I thought it was the answer to my prayers; however, unfortunately, I model (mainly) in 4mm scale (not S, or even 7mm!). 

 

Just too big I'm afraid - too big to go underneath 'scale' rail.

 

Yes, the MSE range is fiddly (as is Brassmasters, which I also used), but it's a much nearer scale representation. 

 

I found it best to do LB's rodding (around 35' of it!) in stages (which gave me time to 'recover' 'tween times), just letting it take its course. Most of it was made-up off-site in my workshop, then installed in situ. I thought I'd done well from time to time at the bench, thinking I'd made quite a run. Then, I took it to the layout and it 'literally' disappeared!

 

Once you start, you'll find you've got to complete it. You'll also probably find layouts without it (where there should be rodding) 'disappointing' afterwards. 

 

The big advantage of the MSE system is that it's soldered together, though runs underneath rails must be made of plastic-equivalent section to obviate shorts.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

 

 

[Tony Wright]

Motion on the Black Five now in place...................

 

 

This had been part-assembled by the original builder. He/she had used the rivets supplied. 50% were too tight and the other 50% too loose. 

 

May I ask, has anyone assembled valve gear really successfully with rivets? They're all beyond me I'm afraid, though these are about 'right' now.................

 

 

[cctransuk]

4 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

May I ask, has anyone assembled valve gear really successfully with rivets?

 

I have done several - though many moons ago, so I'm out of practice.

 

I have a number of BR Standard 3MT 2-6-2Ts, and 4MT 2-6-0s, to rechassis, which will have Kemilway chassis. I have both rivets and brass pins in stock - I'll try the rivets first!

 

John Isherwood.

[MarkC]

15 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

Motion on the Black Five now in place...................

 

 

This had been part-assembled by the original builder. He/she had used the rivets supplied. 50% were too tight and the other 50% too loose. 

 

May I ask, has anyone assembled valve gear really successfully with rivets? They're all beyond me I'm afraid, though these are about 'right' now.................

 

 

Lovely chassis there, Tony.

 

My Kemilway chassis 76xxx. which ran on LB last year, has riveted valve gear. I do tend to use them where possible, but the very fine stuff (thinking of a LRM Midland steam railmotor chassis in my roundtuit pile) usually gets the solder & pin treatment. There is a definite knack to rivets though - I make sure that I have spares before starting a build

 

Mark

[D.Platt]

When you think about riveting components together it is to make a strong fixed joint ! 

 

[Headstock]

An update on the dia. 45 all steel BG.

 

The grab handles and door bumps have been added to the sides. The former are quite extensive, when compared to to later full brakes, it is a characteristic they share with the original LNER 61' 6'' teak BG's of dia. 43.

 

Another featured shared with the dia. 43 vans, was the continues footboard that ran the full length of the solebars, without which, the handrails would only have been of use, to lean a ladder up against. It will not come as a surprise that the presence of the footboards, reveals that the main elements of the underframes are now together. The model is also up on its bogies and fully capable of trundling away whilst  a photo is attempted.

The body is now almost complete. The transverse bulkheads, that interlock with the sides to form half of the door hinges, are now soldered in place. This allowed the ends  to be  assembled and attached to the sides. The ends are a lovely set of half etched detail overlays, that wrap around a fold up brass former to create the bowed shape.  The fit is expellant, provided the curve of the body sides sheets has been formed correctly. The transverse bulkheads have been cut away at the tops, as previously discussed, so that they will not be seen through the rather prominent row of top lights. All that remains to do on the body is to attach the jumper cables to the ends. The gangways will be fitted after the roof is in place.

 

The next jobs will be adding the detail to the underframe and bogies.
 

[cctransuk]

10 minutes ago, D.Platt said:

When you think about riveting components together it is to make a strong fixed joint ! 

 

 

In this case, though, we are talking about shouldered rivets - a wider section on which the moving component rotates, and a narrower section that is expanded into the fixed component by pressure.

 

The knack is discovering the correct pressure - or, more usually, hammer blow - that will expand the narrow section but not the wider section.

 

Valvegear rivets are usually counterbored in the narrow section, so that the application of a spring-loaded centre-punch will do the required expanding; I try not to use a hammer, however light-weight, for expanding valvegear rivets.

 

John Isherwood.

[t-b-g]

One of the little demos I do from time to time involves assembling valve gear components.

 

I use pins but spin them in my mini drill first to shape the head so it looks a bit more like the real thing, with a flat top and a small, parallel sided head. One part, the outermost one, is then chemically blackened and the pin put through it and soldered to the inner part.

 

As long as you don't use a flux that eats the blackening (phosphoric acid is no use in this instance) you get a neat joint, with a good pivotting action but very little "slop" and if you get it wrong (as in make two RH sets instead of one of each hand!) you can undo the joint easily without soldering it up solid.

 

Rivets can make a good joint but are not so easy to remove to correct a fault and I found that putting paper or kitchen foil between parts being soldered could either leave too much play or it was tricky getting it all out afterwards.

 

I don't seem to have any photos that show the technique close up on 4mm valve gear but this 7mm scale coupling rod joint uses the same method. The rods are a triple layer of etch, so the rear portion, which is the centre single layer of the pivoted joint, has been blackened and a pin put in from the front and soldered at the back. The amount of play is "just right".

 

 

I have found the the shape of the heads on 4mm valve gear rivets looks much better than pins, which often have a domed head. The rivets are often thinner and flatter in the head than pins. So if I have some to hand, I use the rivets but solder them in. That gives a really neat job, which is easy to undo if necessary. 

Edited December 1, 2020 by t-b-g
Spelling

[cb900f]

1 hour ago, Tony Wright said:

Motion on the Black Five now in place...................

 

 

This had been part-assembled by the original builder. He/she had used the rivets supplied. 50% were too tight and the other 50% too loose. 

 

May I ask, has anyone assembled valve gear really successfully with rivets? They're all beyond me I'm afraid, though these are about 'right' now.................

 

 

Tony,

 

the v/gear came assembled in the kit.

 

Pete

[micklner]

I always use rivets for Valve Gear. Always place the parts on a metal surface , loose assemble,a couple of gentle taps with a Pin hammer and test. Another tap etc untill the joint is just right. If you cock it up simply file the back of the rivet off and start again. Lot easier than soldering , one mistake and its locked up and a mess to clean up and dismantle.

 

Below is a Bachmann A2 conversion to A2/3 all rivetted Valve gear.

 

[t-b-g]

13 minutes ago, micklner said:

I always use rivets for Valve Gear. Always place the parts on a metal surface , loose assemble,a couple of gentle taps with a Pin hammer and test. Another tap etc untill the joint is just right. If you cock it up simply file the back of the rivet off and start again. Lot easier than soldering , one mistake and its locked up and a mess to clean up and dismantle.

 

Below is a Bachmann A2 conversion to A2/3 all rivetted Valve gear.

 

 

As always with these things, ask 10 modellers and get 10 different answers.

 

All I would say is that by using Birchwood Casey chemical blackening and the right flux (I use Templer's Telux paste) I couldn't solder valve gear solid if I wanted to. The method is totally idiot proof.

 

 

 

 

[Dylan Sanderson]

Good afternoon Tony/everyone,

 

Going back to the discussion on W1s, Hornby have now updated their website which now shows the W1 is due Spring 2021 and the rebuilds are due Summer 2021. The A2/2s and A2/3s still show Winter 2020/21, but since they've only just received printed samples I think this may be updated to a later date, possible Q3 2021.

 

Dylan.

[Steven B]

12 hours ago, Theakerr said:

Gentlemen, I am about to embark on the point rodding install journey.  I live in the Great White North, which as I type is turning white, and therefore cannot see any actual product examples. 

 

Can I suggest getting hold of a copy of the "Point Rodding" book produced by the 2mm Scale Association. Like the previous "Track - How it works and how to model it", and "Train lamps and headcodes" it's available to non-Association members and has more than enough information to be of interest to modellers in larger scales.

 

Steven B.