Wright writes.....

[LNER4479]

Here you go. Here is what I did. Might not be 100% accurate but the coal plate and the positioning of the toolboxes are quite noticeable in photos.

[JamieR4489]

23 minutes ago, LNER4479 said:

Here you go. Here is what I did. Might not be 100% accurate but the coal plate and the positioning of the toolboxes are quite noticeable in photos.

Snap! I didn't go as far as replacing the coal plate, though. Again, it might not be 100% accurate but I just wanted something that looked about right, based on photos.

That rather messy soldering was cleaned up before painting, needless to say. The toolboxes were also adjusted.

[Phil Brighton]

On 05/03/2021 at 11:40, Tony Wright said:

P1s Graeme,

 

I know you've made a very nice one indeed.

 

 

Which sees service on Grantham.........

 

 

And, has run on Little Bytham, of course.

 

I'm sure you've told me how you built it, but my memory crumbles!

 

 

To the extent that I can't remember for the life of me who made and brought this example; assuming the class lasted into BR days. 

 

I've an idea it's tender drive, but who knows?

 

I can't ever see a P1 being available in OO. There is a commonality of parts with a Hornby Gresley A1 and A3, but too much would have to be new.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

 

 

 

 

I have had a go at building the new PDK P1 kit. Not as ingenious as making one from bits of A1s and O2s and but I would recommend the kit if anyone was after one of these locos..
 

[The Fatadder]

On 05/03/2016 at 22:45, Tony Wright said:

Yesterday evening and today were spent in tweaking the final batch of the late Geoff Brewin's locos (of Comet models). They were brought over to me by his friend Phil Bancroft to be assessed and tested, in readiness for being sold on. 

 

A Bachmann body on a Comet chassis. A little light, but runs beautifully.

Given that almost all the locos have the latest (and expensive) Markits drivers, plus proper gearboxes and can motors (some with flywheels), and they all run really well (those who know me know of my zeal with regard to running), I think they'll represent really good value for money. They'll be ideal candidates for personal improvements/alterations/completions, etc in some cases. 

 

Quoting a post from way way back in this thread, I picked up this loco from eBay back in 2016 without initially realising its providence.  After reading these post and the comment that it had been tested on Little Blytham and  was running beautifully made it the ideal loco for testing my own trackwork out on Brent during the early days of the layout.  (A job it is going to repeat over the next few days to ensure everything is still running true.)  Its certainly nice to have a loco that you know runs well to help determine if an issue is down to track or stock!  The final line about it being an ideal candidate for personalisation was very relevant, as after a spell incorrectly in lined G crest W livery I have finally gotten around to  giving it a repaint into the correct for my period wartime black.  Still need to get lamps added along with a crew though...

 

It is still a little on the light side (despite pretty much every possible space in the boiler and between the frames being stuffed with lead), but then it is not going to be running with 12 coach expresses so should be more than sufficient for the 6 or so coaches it will be pulling.  

 

 

[Coach bogie]

8 hours ago, The Fatadder said:

Quoting a post from way way back in this thread, I picked up this loco from eBay back in 2016 without initially realising its providence.  After reading these post and the comment that it had been tested on Little Blytham and  was running beautifully made it the ideal loco for testing my own trackwork out on Brent during the early days of the layout.  (A job it is going to repeat over the next few days to ensure everything is still running true.)  Its certainly nice to have a loco that you know runs well to help determine if an issue is down to track or stock!  The final line about it being an ideal candidate for personalisation was very relevant, as after a spell incorrectly in lined G crest W livery I have finally gotten around to  giving it a repaint into the correct for my period wartime black.  Still need to get lamps added along with a crew though...

 

It is still a little on the light side (despite pretty much every possible space in the boiler and between the frames being stuffed with lead), but then it is not going to be running with 12 coach expresses so should be more than sufficient for the 6 or so coaches it will be pulling.  

 

 

 

Just to be picky, does it have the correct bogie for an early hall? It looks like the plate frame bogie fitted to modified halls rather than the Churchward bogie the early halls all were built with.

 

Mike Wiltshire

 

https://railway-photography.smugmug.com/GWRSteam-1/Collett-Locomotives/Collett-460-designs/Collet-Hall-4900-Class-4900695/Collett-Halls-Pre-1968/49064970-Built-1929/i-5VT4Nt9

 

[The Fatadder]

Just now, Coach bogie said:

 

Just to be picky, does it have the correct bogie for an early hall? It looks like the plate frame bogie fitted to modified halls rather than the Churchward bogie the early halls all were built with.

 

Mike Wiltshire

 

https://railway-photography.smugmug.com/GWRSteam-1/Collett-Locomotives/Collett-460-designs/Collet-Hall-4900-Class-4900695/Collett-Halls-Pre-1968/49064970-Built-1929/i-5VT4Nt9

 

Picky is good Mike, much better to know whats wrong with a model when there is still a good chance of fixing it. 

 I hadnt really paid much attention to the chassis other than adding the DCC decoder and have completely missed that detail.  I have a Comet Churchward  bogie built from the Comet bits that was going to be used on my Saint so I will get that fitted this evening.

[t-b-g]

18 hours ago, zr2498 said:

Recommended viewing.

I bet Tony is even faster!

Dave

 

 

That is, unless it is a ringer or one of those "hand doubles" that crop up in movies, Nick Dunhill at work. He has a number of build threads on RMWeb and elsewhere.

 

He is one of those modellers who I find inspiring. His workmanship and the extra mile that he goes to get things right puts him right up there with the very best modellers around.

 

If you are not familiar with his work, it is worth looking it up.

[Dylan Sanderson]

Morning everyone, can anyone help me with a Yeadon Issue?

 

I'm wanting to recreate a model of 2750 Papyrus in 1937 condition when she was allocated to Doncaster. How does one decipher what type of tender she had from the numbers given? According to Yeadon, she had 5292 and 5329 while at home.

 

Many thanks in advanced

[jwealleans]

The green book is better for that kind of information - there's a fold out table in the back which shows types and dates towed.

[Tony Wright]

3 hours ago, t-b-g said:

 

That is, unless it is a ringer or one of those "hand doubles" that crop up in movies, Nick Dunhill at work. He has a number of build threads on RMWeb and elsewhere.

 

He is one of those modellers who I find inspiring. His workmanship and the extra mile that he goes to get things right puts him right up there with the very best modellers around.

 

If you are not familiar with his work, it is worth looking it up.

 

 

Good morning Tony,

 

Nick is indeed one of the finest contemporary modellers.

 

It's been a privilege to photograph some of his work...................

 

 

 

 

 

 

Inspirational? Overwhelming when I look at what my best work looks like in contrast! 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

Edited March 8, 2021 by Tony Wright

[Tony Wright]

4 hours ago, jwealleans said:

The green book is better for that kind of information - there's a fold out table in the back which shows types and dates towed.

It's probably the most-comprehensive guide to LNER Pacific tenders, Jonathan.

 

However, not every change is noted. I assume tender-swopping was not uncommon at depots. Say, a loco was ready for service, but its tender was discovered to have a fault. Alongside, was a loco from the same class in for examination, and its tender was sound. A tender could be swapped within an hour? Such an act would explain how 60015 came to be towing a 1928 corridor tender for a week or two in 1959. 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[Clearwater]

Hi All,

 

I’m getting frustrated trying to drill small holes in an aluminium extruded roof.  I’m using an Archimedes type drill or a hand drill however my 0.5mm bits are snapping at an alarming frequency.  Is there a trick I’m missing?
 

Purpose of holes is for the roof grab rails.  Again if there is a better technique than drilling holes, then please let me know!  I’d assume a hole, poke the wire through and secure with glue would be best idea. 

 

thanks

 

David 

[Barry Ten]

9 minutes ago, Clearwater said:

Hi All,

 

I’m getting frustrated trying to drill small holes in an aluminium extruded roof.  I’m using an Archimedes type drill or a hand drill however my 0.5mm bits are snapping at an alarming frequency.  Is there a trick I’m missing?
 

Purpose of holes is for the roof grab rails.  Again if there is a better technique than drilling holes, then please let me know!  I’d assume a hole, poke the wire through and secure with glue would be best idea. 

 

thanks

 

David 

 

I go through a lot of those 0.5mm drills as well. Where it's a job like drilling a roof, I usually end up using an over-size drill and then gap-filling the hole with cyano.

[The Fatadder]

11 minutes ago, Clearwater said:

Hi All,

 

I’m getting frustrated trying to drill small holes in an aluminium extruded roof.  I’m using an Archimedes type drill or a hand drill however my 0.5mm bits are snapping at an alarming frequency.  Is there a trick I’m missing?
 

Purpose of holes is for the roof grab rails.  Again if there is a better technique than drilling holes, then please let me know!  I’d assume a hole, poke the wire through and secure with glue would be best idea. 

 

thanks

 

David 

I buy them in bulk from eBay (a German company I recall) because I snap so many.  Now I tend to use my Dremel in a pillar drill attachment.  This seems to have made a difference in braking fewer drills than I was with the Archimedes drill 

[cctransuk]

17 minutes ago, Clearwater said:

Hi All,

 

I’m getting frustrated trying to drill small holes in an aluminium extruded roof.  I’m using an Archimedes type drill or a hand drill however my 0.5mm bits are snapping at an alarming frequency.  Is there a trick I’m missing?
 

Purpose of holes is for the roof grab rails.  Again if there is a better technique than drilling holes, then please let me know!  I’d assume a hole, poke the wire through and secure with glue would be best idea. 

 

thanks

 

David 

 

Lubrication is important - WD40 and 3-in-1 oil are variously mentioned as being suitable.

 

John Isherwood.

[Tom F]

Evening all!

Tony kindly suggested I post this in his thread, after I showed it him in an email.

 

Recently finished this Hornby B1 for a client. Renumbered (and now named) as Doncaster's 61003 'Gazelle'. Depicted in its last years of work (working form a photo of her sister 61016 'Inyala'.)

Did my own motivation and confidence a lot of good.

 

 

[Tony Wright]

More reading than making today...........

 

However, I've all but finished the J3 tender (thanks for the shots of those) and done more on the loco body.

 

 

All holes prepared in the smokebox/boiler/firebox for fitting the 'furniture'

 

Whilst pilot holes for the chimney and dome are provided, these are really far too small and need broaching out to fit. The boiler and smokebox have been pre-tinned in preparation for soldering on the dome and chimney. 

 

 

[Tony Wright]

1 minute ago, Tom F said:

Evening all!

Tony kindly suggested I post this in his thread, after I showed it him in an email.

 

Recently finished this Hornby B1 for a client. Renumbered (and now named) as Doncaster's 61003 'Gazelle'. Depicted in its last years of work (working form a photo of her sister 61016 'Inyala'.)

Did my own motivation and confidence a lot of good.

 

 

Beautifully-natural Tom,

 

Thanks for showing us all. 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[PJT]

42 minutes ago, Clearwater said:

I’m getting frustrated trying to drill small holes in an aluminium extruded roof.  I’m using an Archimedes type drill or a hand drill however my 0.5mm bits are snapping at an alarming frequency.  Is there a trick I’m missing?

Are you drilling in from the outside of the roof, or out from the inside?  If the former, try marking and drilling out from the inside of the roof.  That way you're drilling into a concave surface rather than onto a convex one - a drill will always try to wander away on a convex surface and the smaller the drill, the more chance it will flex and snap when it does so. 

 

If however you'd rather drill from the outside in, use a fine sharp object like a scribe (most centre punches would be way too large, creating an unwanted dent in the roof) to create a tiny point mark in the roof that the drill can positively locate into.  Don't forget to support the aluminium from underneath as you do so - aluminium of course dents very easily.

 

Hope that helps.

 

Pete T.

 

[Theakerr]

As mentioned lubrication is absolutely essential especially if it is a thicker section and, whilst we tend to think of Al as being soft it can be quiet hard.  I have a bottle top filled with sewing machine oil that I dip the drill tip in.

[Jol Wilkinson]

1 hour ago, The Fatadder said:

I buy them in bulk from eBay (a German company I recall) because I snap so many.  Now I tend to use my Dremel in a pillar drill attachment.  This seems to have made a difference in braking fewer drills than I was with the Archimedes drill 

 

I too use a pillar drill (either a Proxxon TBM220 or a Minicraft in a pillar drill mounting) iand find it largely stops breakages.  Putting pressure on when using an Archimedes or hand held drill chuck invariably puts side pressure on the drill and breaks it. It also helps to use large (2.3mm or 3/32") shank drills. I have found the Busch brand very good. Not cheap but very much better than the straight shank drills in the cheap multi set boxes.

 

43 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

More reading than making today...........

 

However, I've all but finished the J3 tender (thanks for the shots of those) and done more on the loco body.

 

 

All holes prepared in the smokebox/boiler/firebox for fitting the 'furniture'

 

Whilst pilot holes for the chimney and dome are provided, these are really far too small and need broaching out to fit. The boiler and smokebox have been pre-tinned in preparation for soldering on the dome and chimney. 

 

 

 

The loco kits I have designed for LRM (not the J3) also have small pilot holes for the boiler fittings. Firstly it minimises distortion around the holes when rolling the boiler or forming the wrappers. Secondly I prefer and recommend removing the casting sprues from the large boiler fittings, wrapping some emery paper inside out around the boiler and filing down the underside of the casting by rubbing it around/along the emery to get a close fit. The holes act just as markers for the fittings in that way but are big enough to provide a lead in if you want to broach them out.

[Tony Wright]

1 hour ago, Jol Wilkinson said:

 

I too use a pillar drill (either a Proxxon TBM220 or a Minicraft in a pillar drill mounting) iand find it largely stops breakages.  Putting pressure on when using an Archimedes or hand held drill chuck invariably puts side pressure on the drill and breaks it. It also helps to use large (2.3mm or 3/32") shank drills. I have found the Busch brand very good. Not cheap but very much better than the straight shank drills in the cheap multi set boxes.

 

 

The loco kits I have designed for LRM (not the J3) also have small pilot holes for the boiler fittings. Firstly it minimises distortion around the holes when rolling the boiler or forming the wrappers. Secondly I prefer and recommend removing the casting sprues from the large boiler fittings, wrapping some emery paper inside out around the boiler and filing down the underside of the casting by rubbing it around/along the emery to get a close fit. The holes act just as markers for the fittings in that way but are big enough to provide a lead in if you want to broach them out.

Thanks Jol,

 

I take your points.

 

Broaching out the holes requires care, but it's relatively straightforward.

 

The chimney and dome are lost-wax castings. Emery paper doesn't touch them. 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

[PupCam]

3 hours ago, Clearwater said:

Hi All,

 

I’m getting frustrated trying to drill small holes in an aluminium extruded roof.  I’m using an Archimedes type drill or a hand drill however my 0.5mm bits are snapping at an alarming frequency.  Is there a trick I’m missing?
 

 

 

Have you tried using a pin vice?   Turned between thumb and forefinger much more controllable (but a slower job)

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Starrett-162A-Vice-0-0-040-Range/dp/B001VY1R2Y/ref=sr_1_16?dchild=1&keywords=pin+vice&qid=1615242111&sr=8-16

 

Alan

Edited March 8, 2021 by PupCam
Added link

[Chamby]

11 hours ago, Dylan Sanderson said:

Morning everyone, can anyone help me with a Yeadon Issue?

 

I'm wanting to recreate a model of 2750 Papyrus in 1937 condition when she was allocated to Doncaster. How does one decipher what type of tender she had from the numbers given? According to Yeadon, she had 5292 and 5329 while at home.

 

Many thanks in advanced

 

Page 67 of Yeadon’s volume 1 lists the tender numbers by type.   5292 is the 1922 GNR type with coal rails.  5329 is the 1928 corridor type.  

 

See also pages 38 and 70.

[Jol Wilkinson]

9 hours ago, Tony Wright said:

Thanks Jol,

 

I take your points.

 

Broaching out the holes requires care, but it's relatively straightforward.

 

The chimney and dome are lost-wax castings. Emery paper doesn't touch them. 

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

I  actually use "wet and dry sandpaper" , although I don't think sand has much to do with it. It it is made from silicon carbide. That is why I  said emery paper rather than sandpaper but that was probably misleading although the emery has been replaces by silicon carbide. Emery paper is used on steel so should readily work on brass. I recall that emery cloth, which is usually made in the coarser grades, was used for polishing up steel during my student engineering days at Ford Motor Company training school. The cloth seemed more oil tolerant.

.

I find that the wet and dry works but it isn't a very quick job on lost wax cast brass. Few of the etched kit manufacturers use w/m for boiler fittings now, as far as I  know.

 

I am looking forward to seeing the J3 finished. 0-6-0s are somehow rather nicer looking that their later and bigger goods loco counterparts.

 

Jol