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4 hours ago, Jesse Sim said:

Another eBay restoration complete, the B5 is ready for some weathering, bit of a bitsa this thing is. Whoever built it couldn’t put a kit together to save his life, I’m very certain he’s mixed two versions of the locomotive together, either from not studying photos or he just didn’t care. She really needs a complete rebuild, which I will eventually do at one point later in life, but due to my limited number of suitable pre-grouping locos she will have to do. For now. However, I think I have succeeded in showing a B5 on the eve of her rebuild, which 5185 received in 1935, warts and all. 
 

 

 

BB285BB7-1B68-475F-8814-59C4DABBC511.jpeg

Don't have too much of the 'Striding Chap' whilst modelling!

Looks good to me, but I know very little of NE stuff.

Edited by andytrains
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7 hours ago, Jesse Sim said:

Another eBay restoration complete, the B5 is ready for some weathering, bit of a bitsa this thing is. Whoever built it couldn’t put a kit together to save his life, I’m very certain he’s mixed two versions of the locomotive together, either from not studying photos or he just didn’t care. She really needs a complete rebuild, which I will eventually do at one point later in life, but due to my limited number of suitable pre-grouping locos she will have to do. For now. However, I think I have succeeded in showing a B5 on the eve of her rebuild, which 5185 received in 1935, warts and all. 
 

 

 

BB285BB7-1B68-475F-8814-59C4DABBC511.jpeg

Jesse

You are right, it looks to have the higher pitched 4'9" superheated boiler but with its original boiler fittings. The main thing you would need to do is replace the chimney (two options flowerpot or later short Robinson style), dome and safety valves to make it more correct. If I recall correctly (?) in order to build the original version the builder should have removed material from the base of the smokebox and firebox to get the correct pitch for the boiler, as that's how Millholme designed the kit. I've still got an unbuilt version but can't check as I'm in Qld for 10 days at the moment. I built my first one in 1987 as 5187 with superheated boiler.

Andrew

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34 minutes ago, Woodcock29 said:

Jesse

You are right, it looks to have the higher pitched 4'9" superheated boiler but with its original boiler fittings. The main thing you would need to do is replace the chimney (two options flowerpot or later short Robinson style), dome and safety valves to make it more correct. If I recall correctly (?) in order to build the original version the builder should have removed material from the base of the smokebox and firebox to get the correct pitch for the boiler, as that's how Millholme designed the kit. I've still got an unbuilt version but can't check as I'm in Qld for 10 days at the moment. I built my first one in 1987 as 5187 with superheated boiler.

Andrew

I agree, as I said she’ll need a rebuild, but I’ll source the boiler and parts needed. One day she’ll get done at the moment shell

do. 

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3 hours ago, andytrains said:

Don't have too much of the 'Striding Chap' whilst modelling!

Looks good to me, but I know very little of NE stuff.

It’ll be for when I rebuild it that I’ll need it! 
 

also it’s a ex GCR loco not NE 

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16 minutes ago, Jesse Sim said:

It’ll be for when I rebuild it that I’ll need it! 
 

also it’s a ex GCR loco not NE 

Sorry, GC, not quite as bad as I have a D11/2 and a part built Q1, (0-8-0T), although technically they are LNER.

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On 21/04/2021 at 14:14, 96701 said:

Shouldn't the trap on the siding be reverse?

Being pedantic, Phil, it is reversed but should be normal.

 

On 21/04/2021 at 16:45, Tony Wright said:

It should Phil,

 

When Norman Solomon was making all the Bytham scenic-side trackwork (using the prototype trackplan), both of us forgot to note the trap point protecting the Down slow/Down north lay-by. Thus, at the initial stage, it wasn't made. Norman made it retrospectively, but only as a dummy; only really noticed from angles such as the picture in question was taken from.

 

I live with it!

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

A wise decision. All my trap points are dummies. I get enough derailments without encouraging more.

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2 hours ago, Jesse Sim said:

Following on from my post about the B5 here she is after a bit of weathering. 
 

I also took the opportunity to finish of the GN milk brake and re number a C1 appropriate for the milk train, as well as giving her a nice hard working look through weathering. 
 

Sorry for hi jacking your thread Tony. 
 

Can I ask a question also?

 

What’s a good colour or mix of colours to weather the rods and wheels?

 

D8166093-580F-4725-8BD6-4FBC53365A27.jpeg

EA2C4DC9-1AAB-43BE-AD04-A69E45C596F4.jpeg

All look good!

 

Colours for weathering motion? Matt black/brown enamel.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

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6 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

All look good!

 

Colours for weathering motion? Matt black/brown enamel.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

I use Humbrol 29 Matt Dark Earth but I don't stir it up (as if...). Putting a pigment-poor coat on lets it accumulate round joints and pivots, and gives a nice oily-looking sheen.

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5 minutes ago, St Enodoc said:

I use Humbrol 29 Matt Dark Earth but I don't stir it up (as if...). Putting a pigment-poor coat on lets it accumulate round joints and pivots, and gives a nice oily-looking sheen.

I generally use a thin mix of Humbrol 85 satin black and 186 brown and sometimes finish off with a bit of gloss varnish to make it gleam.

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30 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

All look good!

 

Colours for weathering motion? Matt black/brown enamel.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

Cheers Tony,

 

although I’ve just noticed some of the numbers have broken off during the weathering process. I’ll fix them. 

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2 hours ago, St Enodoc said:

I use Humbrol 29 Matt Dark Earth but I don't stir it up (as if...). Putting a pigment-poor coat on lets it accumulate round joints and pivots, and gives a nice oily-looking sheen.

I do something similar but add various amounts of 53 gunmetal metalilc.

Ironically I find that Hornby motion needs a wash to take away the metal look and than some dirt mixed with metallic to bring it back. Freight locos tend to get something darker, so I add lots of 401 dirty black.

Bernard

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Not done any for a while but I have used copper in with the matt black and a bit of brown in the past, the copper catches the light giving the effect of light on wet oil on the prototype.

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9 hours ago, Jesse Sim said:

Following on from my post about the B5 here she is after a bit of weathering. 
 

I also took the opportunity to finish of the GN milk brake and re number a C1 appropriate for the milk train, as well as giving her a nice hard working look through weathering. 
 

Sorry for hi jacking your thread Tony. 
 

Can I ask a question also?

 

What’s a good colour or mix of colours to weather the rods and wheels?

 

D8166093-580F-4725-8BD6-4FBC53365A27.jpeg

EA2C4DC9-1AAB-43BE-AD04-A69E45C596F4.jpeg

 

For the rods, try a mix of Humbrol Metalcote Polished Steel, and no 9 Gloss Tan. Brush it on, then at least 24 hours later, polish it up with a cotton bud. It really brings it to life. For wheels, I tend to give a light spray over with a similar mix of what I have used on the body, specifically a mid brown and matt black, mixed 1:2, and plenty of thinners.

 

 

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Loco and tender frames, bogies and bogie and tender wheels I use a mix of Humbrol Matt Black (33), Gunmetal (53) and Leather (62), about 3 parts black, 2 parts leather and 1 part of gunmetal.

 

Driving wheels I often paint differently especially on locos with outside valve gear as they often look shiny in pictures, presumably due to the oil thrown around (sometimes more so the leading and middle wheels than the rear driving wheels on a 4-6-0 for example).  To show this, I paint driving wheels with a 50:50 mix of Satin Black (85) and Metalcote Gunmetal (27004) with a little Leather (62); this can then be buffed when dry to produce an oily sheen.  I use the same mixture to show oily deposits around axle boxes and on buffer heads etc.

 

Rods and valve gear, I tend to use a 50:50 mix of Gloss Dark Brown (10) and Satin Black (85) applied quite thinly.  If doing the rods of a 'clean' loco I do exactly what @GH in EM and O has just said above.

 

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7 hours ago, GH in EM and O said:

 

For the rods, try a mix of Humbrol Metalcote Polished Steel, and no 9 Gloss Tan. Brush it on, then at least 24 hours later, polish it up with a cotton bud. It really brings it to life. For wheels, I tend to give a light spray over with a similar mix of what I have used on the body, specifically a mid brown and matt black, mixed 1:2, and plenty of thinners.

 

 

I thought of using the same mix I did on the body but thought it might have a bit more brown in it. Thanks Geoff. 

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Hello Iain.d,

Have you tried Hobby tech for brass tube? As a builder of things I have sometimes found that they have what I need in stock.Good hobby shops are thin on the ground here in W.A. as you have probably found . I would like to see a photo of the coach when you finish it if Tony allows. I am an EM modeller ,GWR ,LNWR andMidland all pre WW1. Doug. 

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Hi Doug, yes I did try Hobbytech, thats where I got the copper tube from! Its 'my local' being all of about 10 minutes away.  Its a good shop and has most things I need, at least on a day to day usage basis.  I do hope to to show more of the build as it progresses.

 

Kind regards,

 

Iain

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17 hours ago, Iain.d said:

Having been easily distracted from completing the refurbishment of a former Hornby Stanier carriage into something more presentable, I got taken with converting a Ratio Clerestory Brake Third into a MR 31ft 4 Compartment Third using a Bill Bedford W iron etch and a drawing I accessed through the Midland Railway Society.

 

This is the body cut down and shims of white plastic strip added to replace the missing beading at the one end. I’ve also removed the end handrails and commode handles, which I’ll replace with wire towards the end of the build. Two partitions have been added to provide a little strength at this stage.

 

1645934684_Ratio6WheelConversion(01)-Body.jpg.c31f8f2a21175599c216d6ac35cc6500.jpg

 

I haven’t yet decided whether to scratch build (in plastic) an underframe or modify the one provided with the kit, although I’m leaning towards the former. But I thought before I do that part, I’d fold up the Bill Bedford W irons so that whichever chassis I decide on, I can build it from the start by getting the ride height correct rather than modify a built chassis. With only crude measuring done so far, I’m thinking I’ll need to recess the W iron platforms into the floor of the carriage. The centre wheel axle has been replaced with a 2mm OD copper tube (I couldn’t find any brass tube) with a 1mm ID hole through which passes a 26mm length of brass rod. Later today I’ll fit the guitar wire to the bearing housings and try and complete each unit with brake yokes and safety loops. Soldering on the additional/thickening brake shoes was a challenge to the eyesight….

 

341785602_Ratio6WheelConversion(02)-WIrons.jpg.127b3963fc240cdad684623b426517dc.jpg

 

Perth has gone into a 3 day lockdown until Monday night so there’s limited option to go out. It means I get some extra modelling time but on the other hand, sadly but understandably, our ANZAC dawn services on Sunday have been cancelled. Last year many, many Australians commemorated the event by lighting candles at the bottom of their drive at dawn, hopefully in Perth a similar number will pay their respects in the same way.

 

Kind regards,

 

Iain

Lovely work, Iain,

 

As always.

 

Thanks for posting.

 

Regards,

 

Tony. 

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