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I am not happy with the butt joint between the rear cylinder casting and the slide bars. This appears to be a weak bit of the design and I am going to have to have a think about how I proceed from here. The N/S castings for the slide bars and the cylinder rear covers are all superb and it will look good when completed but I don't think that a soldered butt joint will stand up to the stresses in this area.

 

 

Regards

Sandy

 

Hi Sandy,

 

You should think yourself lucky, I built an Oakville WD years ago and the slide bars were " white metal " :O . In the end I drilled out the " white metal " rear cylinder casting and replaced the slide bars with some nickel silver, going right through the cylinder and then soldering them in place.

 

ATB,

 

Martyn.

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Hello Sandy,

 

nice looking build so far.

 

On the slide bar front, could you drill the ends of the slide bars say 1mm and solder some short lengths of brass or N/S into the holes and then drill the rear valve chests too suit them (you would have to do this from the outside). I did think about small screw (14BA) but it would be very hard to get a screwdriver in to the inside of the cylinders.

To also help add some more strength to the slide bars you could add some small pieces of 1.5mm L angle to the motion bracket to help as well.

 

OzzyO.

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Hello Sandy,

 

nice looking build so far.

 

On the slide bar front, could you drill the ends of the slide bars say 1mm and solder some short lengths of brass or N/S into the holes and then drill the rear valve chests too suit them (you would have to do this from the outside). I did think about small screw (14BA) but it would be very hard to get a screwdriver in to the inside of the cylinders.

To also help add some more strength to the slide bars you could add some small pieces of 1.5mm L angle to the motion bracket to help as well.

 

OzzyO.

Hi Oz

The pin solution was my preferred option too. Just been to Inverness for a few days so catching up.

REgards

Sandy

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I have now attached the slide bars, successfully, and prepared the piston, cross head and connecting rod.

 

.post-7733-0-19586000-1355747811_thumb.jpg

 

The attachment for both the small end of the connecting rod to the cross head is a casting that has a spigot that goes through the cross head but also has a bracket to take the first part of the outside valve gear.

Very little is mentioned in the instructions about this and I found that you cannot fit the pivot after you fix this casting to the cross head. There is not enough clearance. Before fixing you really need to attach the first link to the bracket with a rivet and then attach the casting to the cross head. None of this is mentioned in the instructions!!

 

Whilst preparing the two castings one mysteriously 'disappeared'. I searched everywhere for it. I stripped the work bench, spent a long time on my hands and knees on the floor but all to no avail. I even carefully emptied the waste bin!

 

By about 7pm I decided that I would need to make a new one, which I did, and after about an hour I was very pleased with the results.

 

 

 

post-7733-0-50962000-1355747825_thumb.jpg

 

The next morning I was attaching a builders plate to a Royal Scot and, you guessed it, I dropped it under the bench but, as luck would have it I saw it fall and knew exactly where it was. As I bent down to pick it up something caught my eye. The bl**dy casting that went missing last night. Arrrrrrrgh!

 

If anyone needs a spare......?

 

post-7733-0-65560300-1355747584_thumb.jpg

 

Sandy

Edited by Sandy Harper
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Why is it, when I see a basket case, I can't say NO?

 

This came my way the other day and I promised to look at it after the S15. I made the mistake, in an idle moment, to open the box and have a peek!!

 

I think it is a J35, someone else may no better than I as I know nothing about LNER/NB engines. From the few photographs I could find on the net it looks like a J35 and the wheelbase corresponds, but although the chimney looks ok, the dome seems too small.

 

THe loco chassis I think is beyond redemption. The side frames are very thin and nothing seems to line up or to be square The Loco body is quite well put together but lacks detail, lots of it!

 

The tender is also fairly well built but lacks coal guards however the chassis needs bearings for the middle wheels, which have none and are just flopping about in the over sized holes!!

 

The Rods provided are from a different loco!!

 

Why do I do these things?

 

post-7733-0-91604600-1355753735_thumb.jpg

 

post-7733-0-74400200-1355753743_thumb.jpg

 

post-7733-0-34699300-1355753756_thumb.jpg

 

post-7733-0-00371100-1355753766_thumb.jpg

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Why is it, when I see a basket case, I can't say NO?

 

This came my way the other day and I promised to look at it after the S15. I made the mistake, in an idle moment, to open the box and have a peek!!

 

I think it is a J35, someone else may no better than I as I know nothing about LNER/NB engines. From the few photographs I could find on the net it looks like a J35 and the wheelbase corresponds, but although the chimney looks ok, the dome seems too small.

 

THe loco chassis I think is beyond redemption. The side frames are very thin and nothing seems to line up or to be square The Loco body is quite well put together but lacks detail, lots of it!

 

The tender is also fairly well built but lacks coal guards however the chassis needs bearings for the middle wheels, which have none and are just flopping about in the over sized holes!!

 

The Rods provided are from a different loco!!

 

Why do I do these things?

 

post-7733-0-91604600-1355753735_thumb.jpg

 

post-7733-0-74400200-1355753743_thumb.jpg

 

post-7733-0-34699300-1355753756_thumb.jpg

 

post-7733-0-00371100-1355753766_thumb.jpg

 

Cor wish my Hall I am doing looked this good when it arrived.

I do not know about you but I get a better feeling of satisfaction doing something like this to building a fresh kit.

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Peter

That may be it! Triumph over adversity, or something similar!!

 

I recently had a DBJ K18 GWR full brake. It was given to our club to sell with some other stuff. It was in a perilous state. The previous owner had a go at super-gluing it together. I reckon he used a whole bottle and only managed to glue the ends on!! As you may know DBJ kits were made from very thin brass and this thing was bent, twisted, kinked and dented. Nobody wanted to have anything to do with it. I even took it to Halifax and put it on the Bring and Buy for £20 (the wheels were worth that) but it failed to attract a new owner. I ended up taking it home but I hate to see something get binned so I had a go at stripping it down, cleaning off the glue and attempting to knock the dents and kinks out of it.

 

It eventually ended up like this and worth £120!!

 

post-7733-0-29288500-1355758292_thumb.jpg

 

post-7733-0-92333200-1355758297_thumb.jpg

 

Regards

Sandy

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You're a brave man Sandy. Perhaps you and Peter can get ajoining rooms at the nut house when re-building all of these badly built kits drives you both insane!

 

The K18 really does look the part. Keep up the good work. :locomotive:

 

Do you mind, I resemble that remark!!!

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Cross head attached

 

post-7733-0-25880100-1356203983_thumb.jpg

 

My attempt to replicate the Marine big end

 

post-7733-0-23071400-1356203992_thumb.jpg

 

I tried to attach a movie, as Jazz did, of the valve gear in motion but the file turned out at 20MB!! so you got a still instead. I had a problem with it as the drop link (dummy as it would appear above the footplate) was way too long and I had to take about 4mm of the top to make the gear work.

 

post-7733-0-43748600-1356204165.jpg

 

Merry Christmas to all my readers

 

Regards

Sandy

Edited by Sandy Harper
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  • 2 weeks later...

Happy New Year RMWebers, may it be a good one.

 

As we are starting a brand New Year can I ask that you all make a resolution to 'add the scale you are modeling in' to your forum title or tag?

 

I asked about this last year and it seemed to go well for a while but now the initial enthusiasm seems to have worn off!! It just makes it so much easier to identify new posts that you may be interested in.

 

many thanks

 

Kindest regards

 

Sandy

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In between a case of the dreaded lurgie and the holiday festivities I have managed to crack on a bit more with the S15.

 

I have completed the valve gear and you can see in my last post that it all works!!

 

The footplate was next and the first thing I noticed was that the front fixing holes between the chassis and footplate would not line up. There is scope for movement of the screw fore and aft in the chassis cross member but not sufficient, The discrepancy is about 5mm so I moved the footplate fixing nut rearward about 2.5mm and I will elongate the hole in the chassis spacer about the same amount to make them line up. Everything else has lined up beautifully and the castings have all fitted with very little fettling.

 

The foot pate has been totally built up using the gas torch and '0-gauge On-line Safety Flux' This is the first model I have used it on and I am quite impressed with the lack of cleaning up required. Just a quick swill under the tap and thats it! I have used 60/40 cored solder, 145 deg and 188 deg and they all work well. The next job is going to be the superstructure.

 

Kind regards

Sandy

 

 

post-7733-0-51860500-1357063384_thumb.jpg

 

post-7733-0-55534200-1357063398_thumb.jpg

Edited by Sandy Harper
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First job on the superstructure is the cab. It comes as a single piece etch that needs shaping and bending. The roof was shaped using my set of GW bending bars without the need to revert to annealing, which I don't like doing.

 

post-7733-0-06105900-1357311459_thumb.jpg

 

Having got the roof to the correct profile, the sides need bending down to match the front. To assist you the designer has included half etched  lines on either side of the roof to locate the bend point and make the bending easier. Unfortunately I found that the etched lines were about .5 mill out from the correct location of the bend point on both sides and did not extend right to the edge of the etch. The result was that the brass did not want to fold cleanly over the whole width of the  bend and I was left with a gap at the top corners where the roof and side sheets meet the cab front.

 

post-7733-0-99197200-1357311471_thumb.jpg

 

I had to resort to the clamp to squeeze it all together!

post-7733-0-19388200-1357311484_thumb.jpg

 

Adding the remaining detail was straight forward. Next is the Boiler/firebox and smoke box

post-7733-0-55039300-1357311508_thumb.jpg

 

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Very nice work.  Split chassis' is a road I have not tackled.  I have operated an exhibition layout using that method and was very impressed with the performance it achieved. 

 

Impressed with your work and maybe one day I will build one.

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