M Wright Posted March 7, 2015 Share Posted March 7, 2015 Hi, I hope to see some more pictures of the Skye Bogie. How different the loco looks when fully lined out. You will have to build it a bit of a train to pull! Regards, Workwright. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted March 7, 2015 Author Share Posted March 7, 2015 Hi, I hope to see some more pictures of the Skye Bogie. How different the loco looks when fully lined out. You will have to build it a bit of a train to pull! Regards, Workwright. Thanks. More, better, photos hopefully next week. Sandy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted March 13, 2015 Author Share Posted March 13, 2015 The '483' tender is now complete, at least the building part is! It is now ready to go to the grit blaster prior to painting. The 'plug and socket' for transferring the power from the rails to the motor is temporarily fitted to the tender chassis under the front of the footplate. The loco has now started to be detailed. On this side the steps have been added and the handrail fitted. Unlike other kits, that use standard handrail knobs and brass or N/S wire, the handrails on this model are made from brass tube. The handrail on this side also reduces in diameter at the smoke box, which is probably why a length of tube is used. Split pins are needed to attach the tube portion to the boiler and firebox but they are not included with the kit. Remember that this kit is no longer available so this is not a criticism, just an observation, for any other modellers who may happen to have a similar kit stashed away in their 'to do' cupboard. The holes for the handrail knobs or split pins are not marked or indicated on the boiler or smoke box so you will need good photographs of your chosen model and carefully mark the locations yourself. Washout plugs have been added and again the builder is left to get the location correct for the mode they are building. Early examples did not have the washout plugs visible. Similarly, mud hole doors were not always visible either, and in BR days seem to have been plated over in some photographs. A useful tip, when attaching foot steps to the footplate, is to use a length of scrap brass to strengthen the backing plate. These steps usually have a half etched mark to locate the steps and, although useful for getting the steps in the correct position, they can cause a weak spot that will easily cause a bend in the step with handling. The photographs show both the centre and rear steps fitted as described. More to follow Regards Sandy 11 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted March 14, 2015 Author Share Posted March 14, 2015 There has been the odd occasion in the past when, having built a sweetly running chassis and also completed the main part of the bodywork of the locomotive, when eventually screwing them together for initial test running, it ran like a pig! Taking the chassis off the loco and testing on its own returned it to a smooth runner! So what was going on? I eventually discovered that the process of using screws to tighten down the chassis at both the front and rear of the foot plate could, in certain conditions, induce a twisting of the chassis leading to bad running. I had read somewhere of other modellers coming across similar issues and they either left the chassis screws loose, which I don't like as they will eventually drop out, or change the front fixing from a screw to a locating plate instead. In the '483' I have inserted a locating plate, under the foot plate, where a scrap piece of etch, soldered across the chassis sides at the front, locates into. (There may already be a suitable chassis spacer that could be used) The locating plate was made from a U shaped length of milled cannel that I had in stock with one of the legs removed. Soldering this up against the buffer beam gave the required slot for the additional spacer on the front of the chassis to slide under and locate the chassis. I hope the photograph makes clear what I have tried to describe but if not, let me know and I'll take some more and post them. More to follow Regards Sandy 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted March 16, 2015 Author Share Posted March 16, 2015 A moments lapse in concentration and it can all turn to mush!!! I needed to turn up a disc to fit in the front of the smoke box. I couldn't find the one that came with the kit. If I had tidied my workbench I would have found it, as it eventually turns out! However, at the time, I made a spindle to solder to a piece of scrap brass and chucked it in the lathe. Turning the disc was no problem and I achieved a nice fit in the front of the smokebox. As you can see I had spent a pleasant couple of hours building up the ejector and hand rail on the RH side of the boiler and smoke box. Early Sunday morning I wanted to smooth up the joint between the new front disc and the smoke box edge before fitting the smoke box door. It was at this point that my over vigorous filing screwed it all up and I ended up taking too much metal off the edge and destroying the gap between the front edge and the row of rivets around the smoke box front ring. There was no way back from this so my only recourse was to dismantle every thing I had done over the last couple of days and make a new boiler and smoke box. First I made the boiler barrel and smoke box, then added a second piece of N/S to represent the built up part of the smoke box followed by the outer wrapper with the rivets on. Nearly back to where I was! Need to measure up now for drilling the handrail locating holes and doing the fiddly bits around the ejector. The new saddle also came out a fraction wider than the original so the dummy frame extension on the right hand side needed repositioning. Regards Sandy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted March 16, 2015 Share Posted March 16, 2015 Sometimes it feels as though you should of gone anywhere except to the bench. It is looking very good. I am sure there was a magazine article about building one of these. A show you how to do it in O gauge piece. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibateg Posted March 18, 2015 Share Posted March 18, 2015 Good recovery Sandy! You are not alone! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted March 25, 2015 Author Share Posted March 25, 2015 The boiler fittings that were included in the kit were all early Midland and I am building this as a LMS/BR 'fifties example so I needed to order new castings from Laurie Griffin. Nice! I am also building another Dukedog!! Regards Sandy 15 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 Lovely workmanship Sandy superb recovery just amazing. And I thought I had a problem. Regards Grasshopper J. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted March 25, 2015 Author Share Posted March 25, 2015 Lovely workmanship Sandy superb recovery just amazing. And I thought I had a problem. Regards Grasshopper J. Thank you all. It is quite satisfying when the main boiler components are fitted. It seems to 'lift' the whole model on to a different level and you can see the end in sight! Kind regards Sandy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Boucher Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 The boiler fittings that were included in the kit were all early Midland and I am building this as a LMS/BR 'fifties example so I needed to order new castings from Laurie Griffin. Nice! P1080597.JPG Is the vacuum ejector one of Laurie Griffin's, or did it come with the kit? If Lauries, what's the part number? I need one of those... Thanx! Mike Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted March 25, 2015 Author Share Posted March 25, 2015 Is the vacuum ejector one of Laurie Griffin's, or did it come with the kit? If Lauries, what's the part number? I need one of those... Thanx! Mike Hi Mike Yes it is one of Laurie's Part No 15-9 £8. Kind regards Sandy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted May 5, 2015 Author Share Posted May 5, 2015 The 2P is now in the paint shop so I cracked on with a Dukedog from the David Andrews stable. Nice kit, as you would expect from him, but as opposed to the one that Jazz has just built on his forum, from Gladiator, the tender, although a mixture of both Brass and Nickel Silver is etched the opposite way around. The tender body on the DA version is N/S and it was so hard I could not bend the top flare from cold, as I have done quite successfully in the past with the brass version. It was a case of getting the blow lamp out and heating it up. After the application of heat it bent ok. I picked up a pack of Slaters insulated wheel bearings at a show, on the second hand stall, for 50p and have been looking for a excuse to use them. As per usual I wanted split axle pickup in the tender and modified the axles and wheels in my usual way. I cut out the half etched bearing slot on the front two axle positions on the tender chassis sides. (I have found that there is no need to have all six wheels picking up.) They were too wide for the insulated bearings so a new 'horn guide' needed to be made to fit them. A rummage through the spares box unearthed some etched hornblocks that I adapted to fit. Sprung steel wire bearing on the axle acts as both springing and pickup. I hope that the pictures illustrate this clearly. Regards Sandy 12 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted May 9, 2015 Author Share Posted May 9, 2015 I have just realised that I promised to post better pictures of the Skye Bogie when I took them. Sorry for the delay! Regards Sandy 12 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted May 9, 2015 Share Posted May 9, 2015 The Skye bogie looks wonderful. The livery sits on it very well. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
M Wright Posted May 9, 2015 Share Posted May 9, 2015 Hi, your Skye Bogie is superb. The livery is so well executed the lining being really crisp and I like the overall patina. Is it a satin finish? It would be nice the see it with a short mixed train of the period. Excellent , regards, workwright. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted May 9, 2015 Author Share Posted May 9, 2015 The Skye bogie looks wonderful. The livery sits on it very well. Than you Peter. Sandy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted May 9, 2015 Author Share Posted May 9, 2015 Hi, your Skye Bogie is superb. The livery is so well executed the lining being really crisp and I like the overall patina. Is it a satin finish? It would be nice the see it with a short mixed train of the period. Excellent , regards, workwright. The finish varnish is Ronseal gloss with matting agent added. As for the train, I'll see what I can do! Regards Sandy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Portchullin Tatty Posted May 10, 2015 Share Posted May 10, 2015 Looks good Sandy, much better than "green with rivets"!!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted May 14, 2015 Author Share Posted May 14, 2015 Looks good Sandy, much better than "green with rivets"!!! I think I've got to agree with that Mark! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted May 18, 2015 Author Share Posted May 18, 2015 Dukedog 9026 nearing completion. Sandy 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim.snowdon Posted May 18, 2015 Share Posted May 18, 2015 It's nice to see one in black and not the almost inevitable green. Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted May 19, 2015 Author Share Posted May 19, 2015 It's nice to see one in black and not the almost inevitable green. Jim Yes Jim, it makes a nice change. The large, lion over wheel, has now been applied and the bright colour really lifts it. I am just awaiting Guilplates to deliver the plates and then she will look very smart. Sandy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted May 21, 2015 Author Share Posted May 21, 2015 I have just had a strange effect when using a Halfords gloss black spray can. I bought two cans a couple of days ago, Satin and Gloss. The Satin Black was to be used on the Dukedog, as I was not intending putting any lining on it, and I sprayed it up using Acid 8 etch as the undercoat. It sprayed on fine. Using exactly the same Acid 8 etch primer on the '483' and using the tin of Gloss black this time, as it is going to receive BR lining, the paint seemed to 'pull away' from any edges leaving the grey undercoat showing? No amount of additional coats, even after drying with a hairdryer, would cover the undercoat. The paint tin had been heated and well shaken prior to use. Has anyone else come across this before? Sandy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted May 21, 2015 Share Posted May 21, 2015 (edited) Sandy Are they both the same type and make of paint? You could try the satin on both and then air brush a gloss varnish on top of that as you know the satin does not lift. I have found that Satin Paints are more aggressive than Gloss rattle can paints I think it has something to do with the propellant used in the cans. Pete Edited May 21, 2015 by Pete Harvey Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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