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Sandy,

 

I think you have hit a problem with surface tension. Getting paint to stay on sharp edges has always been difficult for that reason, and the gloss and satin paints will have different characteristics.

If you really want to use a gloss paint, I would suggest brush painting the edges first as the paint, being thicker, will have less tendency to pull back from the edges.Or, as has been suggested, stick to satin black and apply a coat of gloss varnish.

 

Jim

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Thanks Jim

That explains it perfectly. The paint went on, but immediately pulled back from the edges leaving the undercoat showing.

I have stripped it all off now and will have another go next week using the techniques advised. Watch this space.

Regards

Sandy

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Sandy,

 

I don't use gloss paint from Halford's as I find it too glossy! As it sounds like your doing them in black you could use the matt black (try black etch primer) then mask off the smokebox and roof then over paint with the gloss or satin black.

 

Have a look at this link. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171591697288?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

OzzyO.

 

PS. check that you have not got pure acrylic gloss paint.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I have another two basket cases to deal with. A CR Class 66 and a CR original Oban Bogie. Both have been scratch built and fitted with Walsall wheels, fold up gearboxes and Mashima motors. As you can see there is a fair bit of work to be done to bring them up to an acceptable level of detail.

 

Finding the available information about them is the fascinating bit as I know very little about the CR.

 

The first job was to strip the paint off, in cellulose thinners, and then have them grit blasted to see what remains. I should get them back next week sometime. In the meantime I will get on with the Mechs and sort them out.

 

Regards

Sandy

 

 

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post-7733-0-31692800-1434880486_thumb.jpg

 

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Guest Isambarduk

"... a CR original Oban Bogie. "

 

I would be strongly tempted just to start again with this one, Sandy :-(   David

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Guest Isambarduk

No, I take you point; I would wouldn't start again from scratch but I would dismantle it and start again using and modifying the parts that I reckon that I could accommodate and making or sourcing new parts for the remainder.  I shall be interested to see how you tackle this one, Sandy!    David

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  • 4 weeks later...

I have started with the Original Oban Bogie (The dark blue painted model above)

 

First job was a bath in the cellulous thinners then a trip to the grit blasters to clean it up and see what was under all that grimy paint. The basic bodywork was sound and reasonably square although later on I found that the boiler had been mounted a few millimetres too low and that had an effect on the positioning of some of the other items. I removed the smoke box door hinges, shortened the hinge straps and replaced. I added a Caley door handle and locking bar. Removed the bent handrail wire and misplaced handrail knobs, refitted in their correct locations and fitted new handrails from N/S wire. I fitted those pipes and valves that come out from the side of the boiler further forward and filled the original holes by taping and fitting a brass screw which was then soldered and filed. I also fond a couple of cast brass connections for the pipes that curve around the firebox, not quite sure what they are for, and fitted what looks like a more suitable whistle. The huge gaps between the firebox and boiler were also filled with some scrap etch

 

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I managed to obtain some more copies of photographs of the engine but alas no drawings, so I had to use these grainy images to determine what was missing from the model. There was a significant amount of front framing that appears around the smoke box area so that had to be drawn and cut to shape and attached along with some sort of cover over the cylinders. It was here that I realised that the boiler was mounted too low and I could not quite get the covers to match up with the rest of the footplate.

 

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Another item that was very significant in the photographs was the rather strange brake operating mechanism between the driving wheels. This is my interpretation of what I could make out from the photographs. Made from tube, rod and assorted bits from my bits box. I am still unsure about the purpose of the long vertical lever. Hand brake perhaps?

 

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This side will have a Westinghouse pump attached.

 

post-7733-0-45244100-1437283762_thumb.jpg

 

More to follow

Regards

Sandy

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Hi, Oban bogie, what a lovely  job you have done, from basket to nice model! You have probably seen this picture, but it does show the loco nicely and the forked top of the handbrake lever and several other bits are very clear.  The  steam  (or air) cylinder of the brake is the part below the footplate. This type of brake was very common on US 4-4-0s of the period.  I always enjoy your builds, regards. https://travelandmixpix.smugmug.com/Rail/Steam/Engines-Of-The-Caledonian/i-NFnvmGd/0/L/1187-L.jpg

Edited by M Wright
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