jim.snowdon Posted December 13, 2015 Share Posted December 13, 2015 Sandy, Thank you. It's what I suspected, given that you have only one front handrail knob. I never like this aspect of loco building, unless it is one of those sensible prototypes where the front section of rail is separated, as in MR/LMS practice. Regards, Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted December 15, 2015 Author Share Posted December 15, 2015 This maybe old hat to most of you but, after Jim's question on handrails, I thought I would detail my method so I hope it makes sense. The first bend I make in the handrail is a right angle around the shaft of a rat tail file. (Remember this is 7mm!) The second bend I make using a 'plier' type tool with one flat blade and the other a tapered circular section. The wire is inserted into the tool so that the long length runs along the flat blade and the short length is gently bent around the taper. The bend that matches the circumference of the smoke box is done by hand using fingers. Oh! I use 0.7mm N/S straight wire for the handrails. I use a length of wire slightly longer than I need and drill a hole in the cab front, in line with the handrail knobs. so that the excess wire will fit through. I then cut back the curved portion, a bit at a time, until it looks like, when fitted, it will fit half way through the hand rail knob. Better to leave it longer than short! The second side is done exactly the same way except the opposite hand for the bends. If you have got it right the two ends will meet in the middle of the handrail knob and they can be fixed with a small amount of solder or left loose until after painting & lining. The right hand curve looks like it needs a bit of a tweak! I have also fitted various other castings and pipes and it is beginning to look the part now Unfortunately, whilst taking the last couple of photographs, I became aware of the rather large empty hole under the boiler. I don't think I can get away without filling it!! Regards Sandy 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted December 15, 2015 Share Posted December 15, 2015 (edited) I like to do my handrails that way if there is a single knob at the front. The build looks great. The great voids under some boilers has lead me to experiment with dummy motion and working motion. I have a LSWR superheated 700 to build. In 7mm you can almost get a bus under the boiler. Edited December 15, 2015 by N15class 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted December 22, 2015 Author Share Posted December 22, 2015 (edited) Final details now added to the Barney. The fall plate needed to be an odd shape to clear the tool boxes that sit on the tender footplate. There was no fall plate in the kit so I made one up from some scrap brass. Scribing all those lines was a bit tedious so I have asked a friendly kit designer if he would include some etched fall plate material on a spare part of his next etch. The footplate floor also needed to be scratch built. Nothing in the kit! The injectors are from Laurie, one each side. As are the smoke box lubricators. The lamp irons came from the spares box and are slightly modified. I think they were originally LNWR! The back head is almost complete but I still need to source a couple of dials The tender chassis is getting its axles 'split' and the wheels shorted out for the pickups. Regards Sandy PS I have just spotted something I have left off!! Have a guess, but no prizes! Edited December 22, 2015 by Sandy Harper 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
shellshock Posted December 22, 2015 Share Posted December 22, 2015 Drawhook Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim.snowdon Posted December 22, 2015 Share Posted December 22, 2015 And the balance weights; and the excess length on the crankpins amd it doesn't pay to look too closely at the cab interior (and I don't mean the missing backhead). The vacuum brake hose on the front end doesn't look so wonderful either - it looks just like a piece of wire with more wire wrapped round it. I would be surprised if there is not a suitable brass casting that could have been adapted to fit the location. The rest of it (the other 95%) is pretty good though. Jim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium uax6 Posted December 22, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 22, 2015 Its those pesky centre leaf springs isn't it? Could you measure the diameter of the cab windows for me please, my 4mm barney (which is an old bec's 700, which is being heavily hacked about!) I just can't seem to get a window the right size, the drawings aren't quite right! Andy G Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted December 22, 2015 Author Share Posted December 22, 2015 And the balance weights; and the excess length on the crankpins amd it doesn't pay to look too closely at the cab interior (and I don't mean the missing backhead). The vacuum brake hose on the front end doesn't look so wonderful either - it looks just like a piece of wire with more wire wrapped round it. I would be surprised if there is not a suitable brass casting that could have been adapted to fit the location. The rest of it (the other 95%) is pretty good though. Jim Draw hook goes on after painting, crankpins finished off after final assembly, Ok, the front hose could do with a better item, and I'll give you the balance weights, but I haven't finished with the wheels yet, need blackening and painting. I have forgotten the sand pipes for the front wheels!!!! !! Regards and Merry Christmas to all my readers. Sandy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted December 22, 2015 Author Share Posted December 22, 2015 Its those pesky centre leaf springs isn't it? Could you measure the diameter of the cab windows for me please, my 4mm barney (which is an old bec's 700, which is being heavily hacked about!) I just can't seem to get a window the right size, the drawings aren't quite right! Andy G Andy The outside dia. is 10mm and the inside 8.35 I considered replacing the centre leaf springs but, as its all going to be painted black, and weathered, I felt that life was too short!! Cheers Sandy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
EKR Posted December 22, 2015 Share Posted December 22, 2015 Merry Christmas Sandy. (I've learn't so much from your postings over the year, so don't take too long away from the bench! ) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium uax6 Posted December 22, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 22, 2015 Andy The outside dia. is 10mm and the inside 8.35 I considered replacing the centre leaf springs but, as its all going to be painted black, and weathered, I felt that life was too short!! Cheers Sandy Right so 8.35mm is going to be 14.3", so for sake of argument 5mm in 4mm. Thanks for that, now I have to work out why they look wrong on my Barney! Have a good Christmas Sandy! Thanks Andy G Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted December 22, 2015 Share Posted December 22, 2015 Looks more and more like a LSWR 700. Lovely build, I assume it it tender pick up only. Merry Christmas to you too. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mswjr Posted December 22, 2015 Share Posted December 22, 2015 Nice work as always Sandy,I know the injectors are in the correct place for this loco,But you would of thought they would be in a cooler place and not as near to the firebox grate as they are,Never seen that before. Garry, Oh Happy christmas to you also Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted December 22, 2015 Author Share Posted December 22, 2015 Merry Christmas Sandy. (I've learn't so much from your postings over the year, so don't take too long away from the bench! ) Many thanks for your kind comments. Plenty to do over the holiday. Might have Christmas day off! Greetings Sandy 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Portchullin Tatty Posted December 23, 2015 Share Posted December 23, 2015 . Thanks for that, now I have to work out why they look wrong on my Barney! Boiler pitch is 6 inches too high is, I suspect, the answer. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium uax6 Posted December 23, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 23, 2015 Nope not the boiler pitch, as I have ruthlessly cut the firebox sides down to the correct height. It's probably that the kit is a tad cross eyed... Andy G Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted January 10, 2016 Author Share Posted January 10, 2016 No 55 has been returned by the paint shop to have its motion fitted and cab detailed before being returned for the final coat of varnish and the fitting of cab side number plates and builders plates. Number 16118 is also undergoing test runs before its final coat of varnish. Regards SAndy 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted January 10, 2016 Share Posted January 10, 2016 They look wonderful. I particularly like 55. The trouble is I can now see my 0395 in LSWR goods green, which would look out of place on a 1930's layout. "Oh bu@@er" Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted January 10, 2016 Author Share Posted January 10, 2016 They look wonderful. I particularly like 55. The trouble is I can now see my 0395 in LSWR goods green, which would look out of place on a 1930's layout. "Oh bu@@er" You don't often see LSWR goods green an a model. That would look nice!. Sandy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted January 13, 2016 Author Share Posted January 13, 2016 Moving on! Next in line is to build a chassis and motorise a GWR Railcar. This was acquired off the Bring & Buy at Telford as a part built kit with no instructions and only a rough idea by the previous owner on how he was going to build the chassis. There is a MSC motor/gearbox, a length of Delrin chain and cogs and a set of Peartree 3/16" DMU wheels. The first job is to build a inner chassis for the driving bogie. I am using N/S and, after drawing out the outline of the parts on graph paper, cut out and stuck them to a double layer of metal before cutting out with a piercing saw. Unfortunately my friend wants it finished in BR carmine and Cream. Shame, as the paint job is superb! Regards Sandy 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted January 14, 2016 Share Posted January 14, 2016 I like the idea of using graph paper stuck to the sheet. I'll have to try that. Thanks! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted January 14, 2016 Author Share Posted January 14, 2016 I like the idea of using graph paper stuck to the sheet. I'll have to try that. Thanks! Hi David, I have great difficulty following a scratched line, even after using engineers blue or similar, when cutting with the piercing saw. The line usually disappears under a layer of metal dust and is difficult to follow. It also means doing the drawing twice, once on paper and then transferring it to the metal. Lots of opportunities for mistakes to creep in. I first saw this done by a Dutch scratch builder at a model railway show in Holland many years ago and thought how simple it was. If you have a prototype drawing even better, just make loads of paper copies and cut out the bits you want. I have found that double sided Sellotape is an ideal way to attach them to the metal. Kind regards Sandy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ian@stenochs Posted January 14, 2016 Share Posted January 14, 2016 Sandy, I do the same and stick the paper to the metal but using uhu glue. I tried double sided tape but had a devil of a job getting it off and it left a lot of sticky mess. Also on smaller bits they get distorted peeling the tape off. Any tips? Ian. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted January 14, 2016 Author Share Posted January 14, 2016 Sandy, I do the same and stick the paper to the metal but using uhu glue. I tried double sided tape but had a devil of a job getting it off and it left a lot of sticky mess. Also on smaller bits they get distorted peeling the tape off. Any tips? Ian. Sandy, I do the same and stick the paper to the metal but using uhu glue. I tried double sided tape but had a devil of a job getting it off and it left a lot of sticky mess. Also on smaller bits they get distorted peeling the tape off. Any tips? Ian. Hi Ian I must use a cheap version of Sellotape as I have never had a problem! Sandy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted January 14, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 14, 2016 Lovely job Sandy, Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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