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Just finished a bit of detailing work around the water tank that I have been putting off for ages.

The water tank was made from a Dapol Kit but was much to large for the one at Westerham Station, which was about a third smaller, and was perched on six spindley legs, so that had to be reduced in length and height and have two more legs added, this is now fixed into position, the hut needed a small addition to it which I didn't notice was missing, till I was checking a photo of the water tank for the feed and return pipes, which was another thing that I had not got round to doing, I made them out of some  plastic tube and a block of wood covered in some brick paper, the extension to the hut was made from some card covered in strips of thin card to look like sleepers with a bit of slaters corrugated for the roof. It's the little jobs that seem to take up so much time.

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Hi Rich, 

          The points are peco electrofrog, but I havn't wired them for switching . just relying on the point blades for contact. I have been told this is not the best idea in the world. and you should wire them. Regards Adrian.

 

Yep, i know that you mean, it's happened to me, a very short section of track on a Peco point that connected into a double slip just didn't get energised. Same height, butted up, and good connection via the fishplate - nothing. I pulled them up, attached feeders to the fishplates and it's working perfectly now. I'm pleased I read about this on RMWeb before putting down the ballast.

 

I really like the weathering on your water tower!

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The Water Crane at Westerham Station,

                  This was situated at the side, of the old Engine Shed, and at some point had received some damage

which had been repaired with a length of old bullhead rail. So if my version of it looks a bit wonky I have got a good excuse.  It's been made from bits of Biro casing for the main part, the handle for turning the water on and off was one from the Dapol water tank kit which I butchered for the one at Westerham, the hose was made from some paper rolled into a tube, glued with some pva and then flattened, the rail support was added from a bit of code 75 filed down,and that's about it. Heres some pics of it. 

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The chain for the buffer stop was from an old broken necklace, courtesy of Mrs Westerham station.

    regards Adrian

Lucky she was clumsy..... :jester:

 

I'm sure 18 carat chain wouldn't last long on the real thing!! 

Edited by bagpipes331
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This is my first attempt at weathering some rolling stock, I don't have an airbrush, so I thought I would try one of the clay based dye products, another reason being that if I made a complete dogs breakfast of it, at least I can wash it off. this is the pull push coaches as my first attempt. I will have a go at some coal trucks and brake van later in the week. 

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Just found your topic and what a topic it is!

Your rod and tube point system is a massive inspiration for me as I was hoping to have a similar system on my layout but had no idea where to start.

Thanks to your step by step pictures I now know.

 

Thank you! Mike.

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Hi Adrian,

Just wondered if the 33s ever made it to this location before closure?

A nice brand new green Crompton with a little light weathering might blend in beautifully.

 

Again, top class modelling, and re Mike's post above, we are all picking up some great tips! Keep it up! 

 

PS: who supplies the clay based dye products, would fancy a go on my 31

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Hi Adrian,

Just wondered if the 33s ever made it to this location before closure?

A nice brand new green Crompton with a little light weathering might blend in beautifully.

 

Again, top class modelling, and re Mike's post above, we are all picking up some great tips! Keep it up! 

 

PS: who supplies the clay based dye products, would fancy a go on my 31

Hi Rich,

            The water based clay wash is made by Flory http://www.florymodels.co.uk/ it was recommended to me by my local model shop. You just slop it on let it dry, then remove what you don't want with a damp brush/cotton bud.( other techniques are available to the more discerning weatherer ) I don't know about 33s,  just about everything else had a turn on the line. The Sentinel Railbus, Peebles steam railcar,Steam motor car No 3,Q class,O1class,R1 class,B1 class, H class, and an unbelievable eleven coach special excursion pulled by No 34017 Ilfracombe Bullied Light Pacific. regards Adrian. 

Edited by westerhamstation
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Hi Rich,

            The water based clay wash is made by Flory http://www.florymodels.co.uk/ it was recommended to me by my local model shop. You just slop it on let it dry, then remove what you don't want with a damp brush/cotton bud.( other techniques are available to the more discerning weatherer ) I don't know about 33s,  just about everything else had a turn on the line. The Sentinel Railbus, Peebles steam railcar,Steam motor car No 3,Q class,O1class,R1 class,B1 class, H class, and an unbelievable eleven coach special excursion pulled by No 34017 Ilfracombe Bullied Light Pacific. regards Adrian. 

 

The weathering is fantastic!

 

You can also justify the D1 and Q1, which took it in turns to run a seven-coach train on the final day of services with the local H class running with a Pull-Push set such as yours. That would have been rather a remarkable experience!

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I am in the same boat as you just dipping my feet into the weathering arena, and I think the less is more approach looks really nice., nice work on bogies, good dirt on bolts, will watch your techniguw with interest.

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Hi, I have been busy making a goods starting  signal, needless to say it has taken a lot longer to make than I thought, It has been made using some parts from a Ratio LNWR signal kit, those parts being a chopped down post, the ladder, and arm.The gantry rail was made from some wire, the signal its self was the only SE&CR signal and wooden post to survive right until the lines closure. the signal still needs fixing to the baseboard.

 

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Edited by westerhamstation
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The brickwork on that bridge is absolutely superb.  

I'm trying to work out what its made of, is it embossed plasticard?

Many thanks,

Dave.

Hi Dave,

         It is a combination of Slaters Plasticard, with brick paper mounted onto thin card and let into the Plasticard to bring it up to the same thickness, this was used to form the arched brickwork and the corner bricks on the portal entrance, glad you like it and thanks for your comment.

                                         Regards Adrian

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Hi Dave,

         It is a combination of Slaters Plasticard, with brick paper mounted onto thin card and let into the Plasticard to bring it up to the same thickness, this was used to form the arched brickwork and the corner bricks on the portal entrance, glad you like it and thanks for your comment.

                                         Regards Adrian

Most ingenious!  Thanks very much,

Dave.

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