StuartM Posted February 4, 2014 Author Share Posted February 4, 2014 Photo 1 is my rail bending jig Photo 2 is the laying out of the sleepers photo 3 is the finished product Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vanders Posted February 4, 2014 Share Posted February 4, 2014 Ah interesting, I hadn't considered using screws like that to build a jig! Did you have much trouble keeping the rail flat when bending, or do the screw heads do that for you? What sequence did you use when bending the rail? Grabs a notebook and pencil, sits cross legged at Stuarts feet. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted February 4, 2014 Share Posted February 4, 2014 WoW Now that's just showing off excellent work Stuart. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
StuartM Posted February 4, 2014 Author Share Posted February 4, 2014 Ah interesting, I hadn't considered using screws like that to build a jig! Did you have much trouble keeping the rail flat when bending, or do the screw heads do that for you? What sequence did you use when bending the rail? Grabs a notebook and pencil, sits cross legged at Stuarts feet. If we number the bolts from left to right 1-3 with 2 being the centre bolt I start with bolts 2 and 3 ( 1 is at this stage removed) Then place length of rail up against bolts 2 & 3 and tighten so bolt heads are tight against the rail Then using the flat end of a file bend rail around bolt 3 until it lines up with the lines Then bend rail around bolt 2 again until it lines up with the draw line Then put bolt 1 in place and then bend rail around bolt 1 The bolt heads keep the rail flat and stop it from buckling Once removed from the jig there are some minor adjustments to make Then solder the 4 bent rails in place, Then add the up rights And finally the the rails across. This isn't to any design, I just made it up as I went along Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted February 4, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 4, 2014 I like it Stuart. I think producing Jigs is well worth while. I know you are a bit isolated but where modellers meet in groups they can also be shared. Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonas Posted February 4, 2014 Share Posted February 4, 2014 Thats ingenious! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
StuartM Posted February 9, 2014 Author Share Posted February 9, 2014 I'm away from the work bench at the moment but have taken a small tool case with me so I can start work on the production stops. Here is a photo of number one taken with my smart phone rather than a proper camera Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
VanBasten Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 Really a nice work Stuart... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
StuartM Posted February 16, 2014 Author Share Posted February 16, 2014 Nearly done bar some touching up and weathering The standard before and after photos And now for some uninteresting facts 1. each stop took about 1hr 15mins to make and then a further 30mins to paint 2. each stop contains 40cm of rail, not including off cuts, waste or cock ups The next thing to do is add the stops to the end of each siding and then blend them in. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andygif Posted February 16, 2014 Share Posted February 16, 2014 Stuart how are the beams fixed to the uprights? Just wondering how your going to avoid short circuits if they are soldered on? Nice looking buffers, better than the normal peco ones I've got on my N layout. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
StuartM Posted February 16, 2014 Author Share Posted February 16, 2014 Stuart how are the beams fixed to the uprights? Just wondering how your going to avoid short circuits if they are soldered on? Nice looking buffers, better than the normal peco ones I've got on my N layout. The whole thing is soldered together so you're right, each buffer stop is one big short circuit, however, the rails are not soldered or joined to the rest of the siding, they are instead fixed at the end of the siding with a slight air gap between rails, making the whole stop completely isolated from the siding and because the only thing that is likely to traverse that last inch of track is a wagon this won't be a problem. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andygif Posted February 17, 2014 Share Posted February 17, 2014 ok, thank for that. I might have have a go at making something similar to replace the Peco ones. I guess if you had to make the beams isolated there is always ultra thin double sided copper clad board that could be used between the beam and the uprights. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Budgie Posted February 17, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 17, 2014 because the only thing that is likely to traverse that last inch of track is a wagon this won't be a problem. It will be a problem if the wagon has metal wheels, because a wheel going over that gap touches both the live part of the siding and the buffer stop, effectively powering it. If that air gap is bridged on both sides by metal wheels at the same time you have a short-circuit. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
StuartM Posted February 17, 2014 Author Share Posted February 17, 2014 It will be a problem if the wagon has metal wheels, because a wheel going over that gap touches both the live part of the siding and the buffer stop, effectively powering it. If that air gap is bridged on both sides by metal wheels at the same time you have a short-circuit. Even if I did have metal wheels, my trucks and the bushes that hold the wheels onto the axles are all made from plastic and I don't intend to be running locos over the last inch of siding Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andygif Posted February 17, 2014 Share Posted February 17, 2014 in the event you park a wagon with metal tyres directly on the air-gaps and bridge both, asssuming of course they are dead opposite on another, you may want to consider staggering the air-gaps a bit. But after all it's your layout, you do it as you feel is correct. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold queensquare Posted February 17, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 17, 2014 Hi Stuart the buffer stops look really good. I've just built a batch of the Midland ones for Bath and have also soldered the beam up solid. In order to avoid any potential shorts I have simply staggered the rail ends slightly so that metal wheels couldn't bridge both gaps at once. Jerry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
StuartM Posted February 17, 2014 Author Share Posted February 17, 2014 Thanks for all your comments re the possibility of shorts, and please rest assured that your suggestions have been noted, however I think I'm going to leave the railheads painted which will provide both a suitably realistic impression of rust on a rarely used railhead at the end of a siding, and will also conveniently insulate the railhead from the wheel; if this proves not to work then I can always add an insulation cut on one of the running rails at a later stage Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
StuartM Posted February 18, 2014 Author Share Posted February 18, 2014 First impressions would indicate that the decision to remove the platform and create a yard instead was worth the extra effort. Still lots of blending and detail to add, but so far I'm quite pleased with the result. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
StuartM Posted February 20, 2014 Author Share Posted February 20, 2014 I wanted to share this wonderful video I just found on Youtube showing how track was/is made The complex junction created at the end is just gorgeous. Does anyone know the location? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rammstein2609 Posted February 21, 2014 Share Posted February 21, 2014 Nice video. I particularly like the lack of hi-vis vests and the workers just getting on with the job instead of being held back by H&S. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
StuartM Posted February 22, 2014 Author Share Posted February 22, 2014 A mock up of the building I intend to build to set the scene this end of the layout A photo in and out of focus to give an idea of how it will look helps me decide if its going to work or not I also took delivery of a couple of period road vehicles today which all help add to the look being aimed for Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Revolution Ben Posted February 24, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 24, 2014 Hi Stuart, The buffer stops look great. I'm not sure about the building. Usually railway buildings are built alongside sidings, with the pitches of their roofs parallel to the tracks. I'm not sure why, but the long warehouse butting up to the end of the sidings doesn't quite look right to me. I think the lack of depth, necessitating a "thin" look, doesn't help. Going with a "less is more" theme I'd be tempted to have just a 6' brick wall or wooden fence around that yard about an inch from the backscene with just some shrubbery/low trees behind to disguise the join between foreground and backscene. Maybe a small site office with characteristic yellow/black NCL lettering would complete the scene adequately? Of course it's your layout etc. so feel free to ignore these ramblings! Cheers Ben A. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
StuartM Posted February 24, 2014 Author Share Posted February 24, 2014 You may be right Ben, I'd added some more detail to the mock up just to get a better idea of where windows would go But at the moment its looking a bit like a cross between a Georgian town house and a farm outbuildings. perhaps with some brick panels it might look more industrial. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Revolution Ben Posted February 24, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 24, 2014 Hi Stuart What about something a little more utilitarian for that 70s look: http://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v81/p1387958506-3.jpg ? Or if you're keen on brick, how about an abandoned locoshed now used for general use: http://www.2d53.co.uk/bangor/s0980.jpg cheers Ben A. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
StuartM Posted February 24, 2014 Author Share Posted February 24, 2014 Thanks Ben,Peterborough looked too much like a Soviet bunker, but I did like Bangor The trouble to the small amount of space into which to squeeze a structure, I shall go away and give it some more thought Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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