Jump to content
We will be upgrading the forum software Wednesday morning - the site may be down for a while during backup/install.
StuartM

An Asymetrical double outside slip MK2

Recommended Posts

Now all the track is in place, I'm going to use the next few weeks to run stock up and down, back to front and shake out all the niggles. I'm also going to fit the under board uncoupling magnets and, again spend time getting the Dapol auto-couplers to work reliably.

Once this has been done, then the track will get a coat of matt black, followed by Sleeper grime, then a start can be made on the mainline embankment and the ballasting

post-10866-0-02205800-1361790972_thumb.jpg

post-10866-0-98784600-1361791100_thumb.jpg

post-10866-0-40482800-1361791111_thumb.jpg

post-10866-0-14643000-1361791144_thumb.jpg

  • Like 8

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Allocate as much time as possible  to "dry" running stock at this stage to test for every possible snitch around check rails and noses. I find a small square make-up mirror stood on the rail helps visually as you can adjust the reflected angle for better sighting.  Far easier now to make final tweeks with any soldering than after painting. It  is also very probable that after track painting and ballasting  there will be a very frustrating length of time before you get the running surfaces totally restored for conductivity. Don't spray more paint than is needed around the blades and avoid accidental dribbles of diluted glue on the rail tops (and slide chair plates). Don't worry - we've all suffered (and I don't believe anyone who claims they haven't!) ! It will all come right in the end!

Edited by autocoupler942

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Allocate as much time as possible  to "dry" running stock at this stage to test for every possible snitch around check rails and noses. I find a small square make-up mirror stood on the rail helps visually as you can adjust the reflected angle for better sighting.  Far easier now to make final tweeks with any soldering than after painting. It  is also very probable that after track painting and ballasting  there will be a very frustrating length of time before you get the running surfaces totally restored for conductivity. Just don't spray more paint then is needed around the blades and avoid accidental dribbles of diluted glue on the rail tops (and slide chair plates). Don't worry -we've all suffered (and I don't believe anyone who claims they haven't!) ! It will all come right in the end!

The track has already been on test for a week or more and most if not all niggles have already been removed.

Nice idea with the mirror, but I find my Transparent test Truck works a treat (see previous page).

Track cleaning is a perennial problem and just has to accepted.

To say that it will 'come right in the end' would imply that there is something wrong, but there isn't, its just a case of working through all the different stages in a methodical manor.

I am currently at the shake down stage and I agree that time spent now, is time well spent as mistakes are harder to rectify later, hence the time and effort being put into this stage now.

Rgds,

Stuart

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That does look lovely Stuart.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

There is something incredably appealing about lots of parralel lines and complex pointwork. Fabulous work Stuart.

 

Jerry

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Stuart,

Super bit of track work - ballasting will be fun!

As to mirrors, see if you can persuade your friendly neighbourhood dentist to part with a time-expired dental mirror. Also any old burrs and gravers are very useful, especially for 2mm FS.

John

Edited by JohnBS

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
?......and gravers are very useful, especially for 2mm FS.

John

 

Chisels, actually, John. Engravers use gravers, dentists use chisels (or used to).

 

Tim

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Absolutely superb piece of trackwork! Look forward to seeing more of the layout as it develops. Keep up the good work.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It's been almost a month since the last update and, during that time I've rebuilt two turnouts and partially rebuilt a third, added droppers to each siding, tested, tested again and then did some more testing, and then finally sprayed the track with enamel black on the copper clad and then the whole lot with sleeper grime, cleaned, then tested again.

I now finally have a working layout.

The next thing is to add the magnetic un-couplers.

Having spent some time with the Dapol auto un-couplers and not being that impressed, I read the thread on the 2mm page re couplings and decided to try DG's.

My god they're fiddly, but worth it, I am now converted to these couplings.

post-10866-0-51677700-1363727221_thumb.jpg

post-10866-0-75093800-1363727234_thumb.jpg

post-10866-0-84185400-1363727277_thumb.jpg

post-10866-0-05377500-1363727302_thumb.jpg

  • Like 14

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi, Stuart

I have just made the same choice, to go for DG couplings. My choice was gainst Electras, but I think DGs are better for shunting. The fact that I couldn't actually get Electras to work had nothing whatever to do with it :-)

Have you seen the article in the Oct 2000 mag by Nick Dearnaley & Peter Whitehead? I found it very helpful

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Really looking good. You can already begin to visulize it as a urban goods yard.

 

If your now going to use DG's could I suggest that you consider using under-baseboard rare-earth magnets to operate them. I have found them to be a far cheaper option than using Seep elecro-magnets. Although they are reccomended on the 'only one magnet per set of sidings' basis you can then find that this doesn't always cover all the shuntings options when loops and other track designs are involved.

 

I raise/lower mine (6mmx6mm/quarter inch size) using servo's but I'm sure it could be done manually, and gives you the option to cover adjacent/multiple tracks in one unit if you need to, (say both lines in a run-round loop), which you can't really do with the slide them in/out of position option.

 

Izzy

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm new to DG's but I've decide to take each piece of stock and the shunter and put a loop at one end and a latch at the other as this seems to work well.

Experiments so far confirm that a permanent magnet works well albeit all the time, I bought a selection from here http://www.first4magnets.com/ tom play around with.

I'm trying to avoid any form of electronics on this layout as an experiment in manual control and simplicity.

When I bought the DG's from Wizard models I also bought an electromagnet but I'm going to saw a seep point motor in half, fix the rod in place and use one coil to see if that works, as I have over 50 spare seeps since I dismantled my ngauge layout.

This is a shunting layout so the ability of the DG couplings to uncouple and still be able to push a truck into position is heaven sent.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi, Stuart

I have just made the same choice, to go for DG couplings. My choice was gainst Electras, but I think DGs are better for shunting. The fact that I couldn't actually get Electras to work had nothing whatever to do with it :-)

Have you seen the article in the Oct 2000 mag by Nick Dearnaley & Peter Whitehead? I found it very helpful

Hi Bill,

I only joined the association in 2010 so did not see that article,

although looking through the thread on the 2mm page re couplings I came across this really useful link http://www.minimumgauge.info/viewtopic.php?t=3318 which is what sold it to me as the instructions that come with the DG's are pants

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Stuart, I think you have enormous play value in shunting that layout and DGs will be perfect.

 

I have always preferred to put loops at both ends of the stock which means it can then be used either way round. The other advantage is you don't have to put any on the locos which, with all the plumbing, hoses etc  are often the most difficult.

 

As for using half Seeps for electro magnets - they should be fine. I haven't tried it with Seeps but a couple of the magnets on Highbury are cut up old H&M motors which have worked well now for almost fifteen years so I don't see why not.

 

Jerry

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Stuart I was lucky enought to talk to John Greenwood and Nick Dearnley about the couplings. Regarding the use of electromagnets can I suggest that you look in Missy's Highclere blog for the ones she made. Quite interesting

Don

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Stuart, I think you have enormous play value in shunting that layout and DGs will be perfect.

 

I have always preferred to put loops at both ends of the stock which means it can then be used either way round. The other advantage is you don't have to put any on the locos which, with all the plumbing, hoses etc  are often the most difficult.

 

As for using half Seeps for electro magnets - they should be fine. I haven't tried it with Seeps but a couple of the magnets on Highbury are cut up old H&M motors which have worked well now for almost fifteen years so I don't see why not.

 

Jerry

Thanks Jerry,

it just seems neater to me to have loop/latch/loop/latch etc seeing as the stock isn't going to be turned.

I've yet to fit couplings to the 04 so I will see what happens.

Stuart I was lucky enought to talk to John Greenwood and Nick Dearnley about the couplings. Regarding the use of electromagnets can I suggest that you look in Missy's Highclere blog for the ones she made. Quite interesting

Don

Thanks Don,

I will check it out

 

ps: shouldn't that be Nick Dearnley & John Greenwood

 

Rgds

Stuart

Edited by StuartM

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Bill,

I only joined the association in 2010 so did not see that article,

although looking through the thread on the 2mm page re couplings I came across this really useful link http://www.minimumgauge.info/viewtopic.php?t=3318 which is what sold it to me as the instructions that come with the DG's are pants

 

Hi Stuart,

That is a very good description, that I had not seen before. You can get the article I mention on the magazine archive DVD. I would strongly recommend every member of the association to get hold of it. Having said that the only extra tip in it is the suggestion of bending the delay latch by squeezing it over the shaft of a small screwdriver between finger and thumb before fitting it. I find that easier than using tweezers to bend it.

 

Bill

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

going to saw a seep point motor in half, fix the rod in place and use one coil to see if that works,

I think I might still have one from when I tried it. I found they are not nearly as good as the magnets seep sell especially for the purpose, even using both halves together in series on the same core.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Jerry,

it just seems neater to me to have loop/latch/loop/latch etc seeing as the stock isn't going to be turned.

I've yet to fit couplings to the 04 so I will see what happens.

Rgds

Stuart

 

If you want to fit the full loop and, particularly iron dropper, to the 04 you will have to leave a gap in the buffer beam for it to swing in to when uncoupling hence my preference for no loops on locos.

 

Jerry

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites



ps: shouldn't that be Nick Dearnley & John Greenwood

Rgds
Stuart

 

I saw them first on John layout Bodmine at Edgbaston. John had originally made them by hand I think, then saw them again on Nicks Midland layout (probably at Manchester). If my memory is right the design originated with John, Nick liked them and drew the artwork for etches.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

 

 

ps: shouldn't that be Nick Dearnley & John Greenwood

 

Rgds

Stuart

 

I saw them first on John layout Bodmine at Edgbaston. John had originally made them by hand I think, then saw them again on Nicks Midland layout (probably at Manchester). If my memory is right the design originated with John, Nick liked them and drew the artwork for etches.

 

The design originated with Denys Brownlee who had himself adapted them from a continental design. John G started making them in plastic using a home made injection moulding machine (big soldering iron with a hole drilled through the element). Nick D asked John to make him some but they were a lot of work so, as Nick had started experimenting with etching in his kitchen sink they designed some artwork and Nick etched it - hence the DG coupling. Denys designed his own etched variation - the BB coupling.

 

Jerry

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Stuart I was lucky enought to talk to John Greenwood and Nick Dearnley about the couplings. Regarding the use of electromagnets can I suggest that you look in Missy's Highclere blog for the ones she made. Quite interesting

Don

Thanks for this Don,

I took your idea and wondered over to http://www.rmweb.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=23703&start=400 and spent a pleasant hour or so looking at the wonderful modelling and in particular Nigel's magnet/coil/coupling on pages 17 and 18. wonderful stuff.

 

It would appear that in order for Nigel's coil to work, the loco must be fitted with a dcc decoder.

I was going to try my hand at dcc for the first time with this layout and,I was going to buy a decoder with sound, but not fit the decoder to the loco, instead I was going to wire the decoder to the EZ command unit I got cheap off ebay and then wire the leads that should go to the motor to the track instead and, then connect the leads to a speaker mounted on the baseboard. I figured that I'd never get a speaker in the 04 and this would be realistically the only way I could get sound.

However Digitrains inform me that if I do this and then there is a short of any kind across the rails, it will destroy the decoder. So it looks like the only way to get sound is to have two decoders, one mounted on the baseboard for sound and one fitted to the shunter, this would then enable to me to try Nigel's idea of an on-board electromagnet.

I can see I'm going to be busy experimenting for the next week or so.

Any ideas or advice welcome

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This is my magnetic uncoupler

It is nothing more than a seep point motor that has been cut down,

The coil wired to a connection block for ease of wiring under the baseboard

A bracket glued to the underside

The whole thing then gets placed up against the baseboard and the metal rod then gets marked and cut to length

This is the second one off the production line, The first is powered by 16v ac and controlled by a momentary switch.

Now the DG's have been adjusted, the whole delayed shunting experience is a joy.

post-10866-0-71522000-1364122405_thumb.jpg

post-10866-0-24209100-1364122432_thumb.jpg

  • Like 7

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I hate ballasting,

I'm still trying to decide how best to achieve the look I have in mind

But it's getting on my bits now, so I thought I'd play around with the bridge structure

The two photos show the bridge and embankment mock ups

post-10866-0-09245300-1365630916_thumb.jpg

post-10866-0-98679500-1365630932_thumb.jpg

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Stuart in his Glenfinnick thread Andy Peters did some samples of different ballasts for his N gauge layout. Worth having a look. Sand seems to be the most suitably sized material but does need colouring. There is something on colouring sand in the Track book I think.

Don

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.