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Bachmann Alco S4


Gary H

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I should have added that the defunct RMJ had lots of articles on detailing specific diesels, reflecting an age where you generally started with a decent but more generic model and spent a few dollars on stuff from Detail Associates and Details West among others to create something different. And laid in a good stock of #80 drill bits :)

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Alco switchers are a joy - not least the fact that the 539 prime mover, dating in effect from 1930-ish - was still being provided through S4 production, long after road units had been through 244 and were moving on to 251 engines. And the switch from Blunt trucks to the GSC product seems to have been driven by external factors about the AAR standards. My first Alco switcher was a Cary body on an Athearn chassis in the mid-80s, but hardly was the paint dry before Atlas announced an RTR version.....

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I should have added that the defunct RMJ had lots of articles on detailing specific diesels, reflecting an age where you generally started with a decent but more generic model and spent a few dollars on stuff from Detail Associates and Details West among others to create something different. And laid in a good stock of #80 drill bits :)

 

Back numbers of some US mags can be found here - regretably RMJ isn't on the list - but there is some good winter reading !

 

http://www.trainlife.com/magazines/model-train-magazine-index

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I bought one of these this summer, and was amazed at the value it represented. The sound is superb, and certainly has all the functions you need for normal operation and is very responsive after a tweak or two. As for that turbo whistle - fantastic! Mine is a touch noiser than my Atlas S1's, but for the money... £64 delivered! With sound!!!! OK, it's a touch crude next to the P2K's, but so are the Atlas switchers. I'd love to think other sound equipped models at this value level will appear.

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I'm also in the group that thinks some of the sound effects being offered by companies like BLI are getting a bit over the top now, for those that want them it is great but I think that an awful lot of modelers are perfectly happy with a basic system that offers good engine sounds with some extras like klaxon/whistle sounds and remains pretty simple. I have a couple of BLI models and will happily admit I have never used 90% of the functionality of the sound system. Then again, I'm also happy enough with no sound and most of my models are not sound fitted. And yes, I agree that some of the models from the lower end of the price spectrum are very good, the Athearn ready to roll models also seem to be improving steadily to the point where it will question the point of the Genesis line I think.

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I agree jjb1970..... I cannot for the life of me remember what all the functions are and cannot be arsed remapping them all so that they are consistent from loco to loco. For me, lights, bells, horns, horns, coupler clash, dynamics where appropriate and a mute is about my limit, and good driveability. After that I am overwhelmed.

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I have dipped the tip of my first toe into the DCC water by buying one of these Sound Value S4s. I got it cheapish on ebay, and I'm pleasantly impressed. At first it kept cutting out and I thought it might be due to dirty track or me running it on a DC controller. But after I'd cleaned the wheels and contact wipers, and bent the wipers out a bit more to ensure good wheel contact, it runs fine. Obviously running it on DC isn't ideal, if only because it cuts out every time I change direction, but if the novelty of sound doesn't wear off I'll take the plunge on a simpleish DCC controller.

 

This could be the thin end of the DCC wedge for me...

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I have one Atlas S-4 that has a Tsunami decoder installed (this is one of the older Kato mechs). Shoehorning the decoder and speaker into the thing required a lot of fiddling and I wasn't relishing doing the other three Alco switchers I need. My good friend George Dutka (www.whiteriverdivision.blogspot.com/2013/03/Bachmann-alco-s-2-central-vermont.html) told me about the Bachmann engines that he was pleased with.

I bought one with DCC/sound factory installed for less than the cost of a decoder for an Atlas engine. The Bachmann engine ran and sounded great, especially once the decoder is reprogrammed. I now have four Bachmann Alco switchers - three S-2s and one S-4 - on the layout.

Adding the grabs, windshield wipers, cab shades etc... are easy changes. Perhaps the biggest weakness they have is the brake cylinders on the truck sideframes appear a little shallow. This could be corrected with after-market parts but I don't find it particularly worrisome on a layout model.

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I finally got round to hitting mine with the air brush, powders and dull coat. I fitted the missing grabs on the nose and long hood on the other side.

Another couple of years, I may fit some screen wipers to it aswel :D

post-299-0-89975600-1390684248_thumb.jpg

 

 

 

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Very nice, Gary. I must say I'm not too bothered about adding extra detail. A bit of weathering (when I pluck up the courage) will do me! Having said that, I've replaced the couplers with Kadees, following my usual practice, because the ones supplied would hardly move sideways at all over a magnet, even when I slackened the retaining screws a bit.

 

The Kadee #5 metal plate wouldn't quite fit inside the loco's coupler box, and the Kadee coupler box wouldn't quite fit into the available space under the loco, so I cut the back end and lugs off the Kadee box. They now work a treat.

 

If I continue with DCC I'll have to decide whether to convert my three Bachmann Geeps and my Athearn Blue Box SW1500, but that's another thread!

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If I continue with DCC I'll have to decide whether to convert my three Bachmann Geeps and my Athearn Blue Box SW1500, but that's another thread!

Go on Rod, you know it makes sense! :D

I can heartily recommend the NCE Power cab. I don't own one myself but I do use the Pro cab which is similar.

My reasons for picking the Power Cab would be because they are very user friendly and functional whilst also being affordable. Like the way the speed control is placed on the throttle so as to make one handed operation easy leaving the other hand free for uncoupling etc. They are a fine way to get into DCC all in my honest opinion ofcourse.

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I ordered one of these as soon as I heard it! Re the grabs, I just wish they had put dimples to help with positioning. The larger grabs that curves around the front of the bonnet are going to be the really tricky one to fit (for me anyway!)

If its any help  ,mark it all out on a bit of masking tape  ,stick it on the loco and use it as drilling guide.I am going to one of these Alcos   especially now I know i dont have to cut off moulded on grabs as I have just kicked my switching layout back  to the "the Patch" type 50's  era .i have worked a way to put in the building on a curve  so distinctive  or that area even if most power will be SP / PE .I will  do a thread on it  when its tidy enough to photograph .I use the MRC Tech 6 blackbox  which means I can switch between full DCC and sound or DC at the press of a button and also have a Bachmann EZ DCC .

Martin

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Go on Rod, you know it makes sense! :D

I can heartily recommend the NCE Power cab. I don't own one myself but I do use the Pro cab which is similar.

My reasons for picking the Power Cab would be because they are very user friendly and functional whilst also being affordable. Like the way the speed control is placed on the throttle so as to make one handed operation easy leaving the other hand free for uncoupling etc. They are a fine way to get into DCC all in my honest opinion ofcourse.

 

Yup, if I do it, I think it will be a Power Cab.

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If its any help  ,mark it all out on a bit of masking tape  ,stick it on the loco and use it as drilling guide.

That's similar to what I did. I made up a template from a piece of plasticard to enable drilling of equally spaced holes. The only small variation I made on the loco was omitting the curved grabs that go around the nose. I just used 8,  Details West 18 inch grabs.

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I use the MRC Tech 6 blackbox  which means I can switch between full DCC and sound or DC at the press of a button and also have a Bachmann EZ DCC .

Martin

 

I see that Hattons stock the Gaugemaster equivalent, the DCC75. Using this, can you (among other things) change direction on a DC layout without the loco cutting out?

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I finally got round to hitting mine with the air brush, powders and dull coat. I fitted the missing grabs on the nose and long hood on the other side.

Another couple of years, I may fit some screen wipers to it aswel :D

attachicon.gifBachmann s4.JPG

 

One small point - AFAIK, or could find out, this livery is ficticious - the only reference I could find is a painting which shows one in P&LE that was done for the owner of the line - and it seems that was put in by the artist as the owner wanted a loco in the painting ( note the original livery was black with P&LE letering and not olive green AFAIC discover)

Edit 1- can't find the one I was refering to - but this is a Howard Fogg Postcard foobie

 

post-6688-0-81403200-1390744383.jpg

 

Edit2 The one I refered to in the original part of the post is about 7 down (Bethlehem Steel works ) here http://www.silogic.com/trains/P&LE Postcards by Howard Fogg.html

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Who were the P&LE anyway? Shortline?

 

Just sent a couple of emails, Jack - let me know if you don't get them! The Canadian thing was to close to home for comfort as that damned Arctic Vortex is paying us another visit this upcoming week...

 

Best, Pete.

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One small point - AFAIK, or could find out, this livery is ficticious -

Yeah I know!

Ive only ever seen a picture of it re produced as a drawing on a post card!

That's one reason I weathered it. :yes:

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I see that Hattons stock the Gaugemaster equivalent, the DCC75. Using this, can you (among other things) change direction on a DC layout without the loco cutting out?

The loco has to stop and then change direction if thats what you mean,you can switch DC  locos on the layout by just using the direction button if the loco is slow .Its a good controller for DC as it has very good smooth control .Its a decent solution for small layouts .Its no substitute for a full DCC set up but for me its great ,it also programs DCC easily but you cannot read the CV's .Sound works very well. I find it very useful as my Gaugemaster  DC unit failed so I needed a good controller anyway .Its far better than the  DC GM Duette  type controller I used before .It is very light so i tape mine down with velcro .Its an elegant solution to one simple  problem.

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