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Bakewell - Peak District Line BR - Layout Views


Alister_G
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  • RMweb Gold

Hi Al, have you got to grips with Templot for those turnouts you're going to have a go at?

 

I think "got to grips with" is overstating the case, frankly :)

 

I've managed to pick a template, and bend it to the curve I want, for one of the turnouts.

 

I've failed miserably to turn a turnout into a diamond - I've got two half diamonds but they won't do what I want, and join up, and as for making it into a single slip...

 

Ah well early days.

 

Al

Edited by acg_mr
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I think "got to grips with" is overstating the case, frankly :)

 

I've managed to pick a template, and bend it to the curve I want, for one of the turnouts.

 

I've failed miserably to turn a turnout into a diamond - I've got two half diamonds but they won't do what I want, and join up, and as for making it into a single slip...

 

Ah well early days.

 

Al

You could always try PECO, hahhahahha

 

 

SORRY :no:  :no: :no:  

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I think "got to grips with" is overstating the case, frankly :)

 

I've managed to pick a template, and bend it to the curve I want, for one of the turnouts.

 

I've failed miserably to turn a turnout into a diamond - I've got two half diamonds but they won't do what I want, and join up, and as for making it into a single slip...

 

Ah well early days.

 

Al

Sounds like you're at a similar point to myself

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Chaps, I almost hate to heap more work on his already busy shoulders but simply speak to Martin Wynne, the Templot guru, and you'll find him very helpful!

Kind regards,

Jock.

Or simply ask on the Templot forum
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I think "got to grips with" is overstating the case, frankly :)

 

I've managed to pick a template, and bend it to the curve I want, for one of the turnouts.

 

I've failed miserably to turn a turnout into a diamond - I've got two half diamonds but they won't do what I want, and join up, and as for making it into a single slip...

 

Ah well early days.

 

Al

 

What are you wanting Al? I can give you some pointers if you want.

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  • RMweb Gold

I've failed miserably to turn a turnout into a diamond - I've got two half diamonds but they won't do what I want, and join up, and as for making it into a single slip...

 

Hi Al,

 

Start with the first half-diamond and then click the tools > make diamond-crossing menu item. Templot will create the other one.

 

I have recently made a new video about creating a single slip. You should be able to watch it directly from Templot, click here:

2_020617_360000000.png

 

If not, you can watch it on the Templot web site, here:

 

 http://templot.com/companion/index.html?add_slip_roads.htm

 

regards,

 

Martin.

Edited by martin_wynne
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  • RMweb Gold

Thanks Cav, and Martin.

 

I really only started looking at Templot on Sunday night, so once I've got my head round how to work it, I may come back to you for more assistance.

 

Martin, thank you, I'll take a look at that video tonight, and have a look through the forum.

 

BTW don't you ever sleep :O

 

Thanks again,

 

Al.

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Thanks Cav, and Martin.

 

I really only started looking at Templot on Sunday night, so once I've got my head round how to work it, I may come back to you for more assistance.

 

Martin, thank you, I'll take a look at that video tonight, and have a look through the forum.

 

BTW don't you ever sleep :O

 

Thanks again,

 

Al.

 

Hmm.............40 day's 40 night's later, am afraid I haven't,   :no: .

 

I  Need more    tablet's   time  AL ?

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Al

I have found the Templot templates very easy to actually build on - if you build the 'vee' first then build outwards from that everything lines up very well with the plan.

 

For the basics eg a simple straight or curved turnout, and even crossovers are not too difficult. For planning the whole layout I am finding it more difficult - at the moment am planning my layout in segments which I know I will be able to join together!!

 

Just remember to alter the settings to match the roller gauges you plan to use.

Steve

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Evening Al, wow mate just like me with Bitton, your already getting some fantastic support from all and sundry, good luck with the first one because that's the hardest, then it will all just fall into place.

 

All the best mate.

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  • RMweb Gold

does this mean bastardising your trains???

 

No, they've all got a mother and father... :jester:

 

No, It shouldn't do, I'm not changing the gauge, it's still 00, I may have to tweak the back-to-backs on some old stuff, but overall it should be fine.

 

Cheers,

 

Al.

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  • RMweb Gold

Right then,

 

So, as you may have gathered, I've decided to try my hand at building my own track.

 

For the moment, further scenic work has been put on hold, as there's no point if I'm going to have to move it all to relay the track.

 

I've spent some considerable time in discussion, on AndrewP's thread, and by PM with various people, and I must say thank you to everyone who has offered help and advice so far.

 

So, I've now got the following items:

 

post-17302-0-73577500-1418321094_thumb.jpg

 

code75 bullhead rail, and copper-clad sleepers. I hope these are the right bits, or I've stuffed it up already :O

 

I've also bought these:

 

post-17302-0-99598800-1418321096_thumb.jpg

 

I think I'm right in saying that I need to use the set of gauges on the right of the picture, if I want to minimise the modifications to rolling stock. Please can someone confirm?

 

I've also taken my first tentative steps with Templot, and have calibrated my printer, and managed to produce this:

 

post-17302-0-66242900-1418321098_thumb.jpg

 

which is an A5.5 Right Hand turnout using 00-BF gauge settings. The A5.5 is slightly larger than a Peco medium radius point, which is what they will be replacing. I will need to make 6 of these, and a couple of Left Hand ones the same, and then I need two three-way points and a single-slip. This will cover nearly all the points on the scenic section of the layout.

 

A couple of the turnouts will need to be curved, but for my first attempt I'll stick with a straight one.

 

First (and very basic) questions then: do I need to stick the copper-clad sleepers to the template, and if so, what's the best way?

 

Unfortunately, I can't do much yet, as I have no suitable vice to make the crossing Vee with, and I have been told in no uncertain terms that I am not allowed to buy myself one, as it's only a fortnight to Christmas :(

 

I guess that means that someone is going to have a last-minute word with Santa...

 

I also guess that means I can't start building my first turnout until after Christmas :( :(

 

Ah well, if I will get these daft ideas in my head...

 

Cheers,

 

Al.

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Right then,

 

So, as you may have gathered, I've decided to try my hand at building my own track.

 

For the moment, further scenic work has been put on hold, as there's no point if I'm going to have to move it all to relay the track.

 

I've spent some considerable time in discussion, on AndrewP's thread, and by PM with various people, and I must say thank you to everyone who has offered help and advice so far.

 

So, I've now got the following items:

 

attachicon.giftrack-bits001.jpg

 

code75 bullhead rail, and copper-clad sleepers. I hope these are the right bits, or I've stuffed it up already :O

 

I've also bought these:

 

attachicon.giftrack-bits002.jpg

 

I think I'm right in saying that I need to use the set of gauges on the right of the picture, if I want to minimise the modifications to rolling stock. Please can someone confirm?

 

I've also taken my first tentative steps with Templot, and have calibrated my printer, and managed to produce this:

 

attachicon.giftrack-bits003.jpg

 

which is an A5.5 Right Hand turnout using 00-BF gauge settings. The A5.5 is slightly larger than a Peco medium radius point, which is what they will be replacing. I will need to make 6 of these, and a couple of Left Hand ones the same, and then I need two three-way points and a single-slip. This will cover nearly all the points on the scenic section of the layout.

 

A couple of the turnouts will need to be curved, but for my first attempt I'll stick with a straight one.

 

First (and very basic) questions then: do I need to stick the copper-clad sleepers to the template, and if so, what's the best way?

 

Unfortunately, I can't do much yet, as I have no suitable vice to make the crossing Vee with, and I have been told in no uncertain terms that I am not allowed to buy myself one, as it's only a fortnight to Christmas :(

 

I guess that means that someone is going to have a last-minute word with Santa...

 

I also guess that means I can't start building my first turnout until after Christmas :( :(

 

Ah well, if I will get these daft ideas in my head...

 

Cheers,

 

Al.

Firstly the gauges:

The ones with code '4TGOO' are for 'DOGA fine' which requires 14.8mm back to backs - this is the one where you will find you may be altering a lot of them! (Some people seem to be lucky and don't have to!)

 

The ones marked 00-SF are for .....00-SF! Strangely enough. With MOST recent ready to run (Heljan a big exception) you probably won't need to alter back to backs (although you may need to alter some).

This gives the same better looking flangeways (1mm) as the other gauges you have bought, but reduces the track gauge to 16.2mm through the turnout only (if you are really clever, it only needs to be through the area of the common crossing).

 

You will need to alter Templot to either DOGA fine OR 00-SF, and NOT 00-BF, depending on which way you go. Why not build one in each and try your stock through them?

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Hi Al

 

"First (and very basic) questions then: do I need to stick the copper-clad sleepers to the template, and if so, what's the best way?"

 

Yes, well I do anyway!!

 

I tried using double sided tape, but I found that awkward to move the "sleeper" if you'd not got it lined up perfectly and a pain to get the template off when finished.

 

What I now use is a 50p Asda glue stick as it allows you to line things up easily, also when you come to peel off your template, just pour boiling water on the track and it releases the glue, a quick scrub with some fairy and an old toothbrush to remove any flux followed by a good rinse and the jobs a good un!!

 

Hope this helps

 

Chip

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  • RMweb Gold

Firstly the gauges:

The ones with code '4TGOO' are for 'DOGA fine' which requires 14.8mm back to backs - this is the one where you will find you may be altering a lot of them! (Some people seem to be lucky and don't have to!)

 

The ones marked 00-SF are for .....00-SF! Strangely enough. With MOST recent ready to run (Heljan a big exception) you probably won't need to alter back to backs (although you may need to alter some).

This gives the same better looking flangeways (1mm) as the other gauges you have bought, but reduces the track gauge to 16.2mm through the turnout only (if you are really clever, it only needs to be through the area of the common crossing).

 

You will need to alter Templot to either DOGA fine OR 00-SF, and NOT 00-BF, depending on which way you go. Why not build one in each and try your stock through them?

 

Thanks mate, Drat, I thought I'd got the same as Andy was using (hence buying two sets), but obviously not.

 

I'll experiment with Templot and see what works.

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Incidentally, if you use the 00-SF gauges you will also need the seperate check rail gauges for 00-SF from C & L, as the grooves for these are not cut into the track gauges.

 

As regards a vice - you don't NEED one.

Several options:

1. Just hold the rail on a block of wood with your fingers (very hard work - not recommended!!!)

2. G clamp - use this to hold the rail on a block of wood: simply hold this (on edge of a table) or use the clamp to hold the lot to edge of table.

3. Block of wood, 2 screws, and 2 rubber washers.

 

For option 3 put the screws either side of where the rail will go on a block of wood (so they are slightly clear of the rail) an inch or two ( or somewhere in between (experiment and see what work for you). Under the screws put two RUBBER washers (tap washers if you have them) them put a metal washers on top of the rubber one but under the screw head: use screws with flat bottom to the head (these usually have a rounded top to the head - don't know the technical name!)

 

Send me a pm with your email address if you want a picture, as I am sure this will make more sense than my poor description!!

 

Steve

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I use double sided tape with no problems! I use two 3 - 4 mm wide strips (it's not critical, and I simply cut by eye with scissors, so some May end up wider!).

I put the strips either side of the template, just outside the rails. I find I can turn the template over and carefully peel the template away (don't try to peel the turnout from the template as you will bend it). Alternatively, soak it with white spirit. If you want to make the tape 'low tack' dab it with a non fluffy cloth before sticking the sleepers.

 

You do not actually have to remove the template - glue the sleepers on, and when you have finished stick the whole thing, with template still in place, to the baseboard (you would automatically do this if building in-situ) - the template will be covered in ballast.

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  • RMweb Gold

Hi Al

 

"First (and very basic) questions then: do I need to stick the copper-clad sleepers to the template, and if so, what's the best way?"

 

Yes, well I do anyway!!

 

I tried using double sided tape, but I found that awkward to move the "sleeper" if you'd not got it lined up perfectly and a pain to get the template off when finished.

 

What I now use is a 50p Asda glue stick as it allows you to line things up easily, also when you come to peel off your template, just pour boiling water on the track and it releases the glue, a quick scrub with some fairy and an old toothbrush to remove any flux followed by a good rinse and the jobs a good un!!

 

Hope this helps

 

Chip

 

Thanks Chip, brilliant, just what I was looking for.

 

Al.

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