Bakewell - Peak District Line BR - Layout Views

[Alister_G]

Another 'thumbs up' for the willing helper   The cutting as the mainlines round the curve definitely has a Peak District look about it already.

 

Thanks Robert, glad you think it's looking like right, I've got a long way to go to match Gowhole though.

[cbeagleowner]

Hey Al. Can I ask you a question about your cellar please? Did you paint it white? Does it make a massive difference being white? Reason I ask is that I'm wondering whether to use the big tin of magnolia paint I found to paint up the loft roof which is a bit dark and dingy. The laws of physics suggest that it will help...I think...

[Alister_G]

Hey Al. Can I ask you a question about your cellar please? Did you paint it white? Does it make a massive difference being white? Reason I ask is that I'm wondering whether to use the big tin of magnolia paint I found to paint up the loft roof which is a bit dark and dingy. The laws of physics suggest that it will help...I think...

 

Hi Rich, I didn't do it specifically for the layout, it's been whitewashed ever since I moved in, but it definitely makes a difference.

 

However, if you look back to earlier in the thread, you can see that it was still a bit dark and dingy with the light that was available from two single bulbs. I have since repositioned and improved the lighting, and it is that which has made the biggest difference.

 

I think we spoke before on your thread about painting the felt between the rafters as it is currently black, if I remember correctly. I'm sure that would make a difference psychologically as well as physically.

[Alister_G]

Today, was beautiful sunshine, so despite being full of a cold, (thanks, brother), I went to visit the prototype location on which my layout is based, to get some detail shots to help me in my scratch building of various structures. I also took some general views which I thought I'd share with you.

 

Here we are standing on the edge of the down platform, looking "up" towards the road bridge:

 

 

As you can see the edging slabs for the platform still exist, although the trackbed has been filled in level with the platform surface. The Up platform edging has disappeared this side of the bridge, but as we shall see, it still exists beyond the bridge. Note also the blooming great pile of spoil which blocks half the trackbed width on this side of the bridge, put there to buttress the road above.

 

Here's the view the other way, from the edge of the down platform looking "down":

 

 

It is no longer possible to see the goods shed (which still exists) as the modern industrial buildings have encroached on the old track alignment. As you can see, the station buildings on both sides still exist. That on the Up platform is just a stone facade with a small waiting room in the middle. It is just possible to see the location of the old canopies on both up and down buildings, (not the round arches, but the triangular sawtooth above them).

 

Moving on, here we are beyond the road bridge, looking in the down direction again. You can see that both up and down platform edgings still exist this side of the bridge:

 

 

This shot shows again how the pile of spoil has encroached on the old track width. It also shows nicely the detail of the bridge itself. Furthermore, it shows there was very little platform width under the bridge, I can't imagine many people wanting to venture that far along it, although photos of the period do show passengers waiting both sides of the bridge.

 

...

 

We've come the other way now, about 300 yards down the track, and here is the old goods shed:

 

 

Now in use as a car repairs and MOT station. The timber lean-too is a later addition, and is where the goods loop would have run.

 

And here is a shot from approximately where the points off the main line into the goods loop were:

 

 

The low walling on the left of the picture is the original boundary of the track bed, and in fact, just behind me here that wall has a curved indentation which marks the position of the Up Home signal. Originally you would have been able to see the end of the station platform from here, but the industrial unit in the distance cuts across the old track alignment.

 

Finally here's a shot of that retaining wall exactly as it was 45 years ago (except probably a bit more moss and lichen!) when trains last ran.

 

 

I hope you've enjoyed this quick whizz round Bakewell station and yard.

 

Thanks for looking.

Edited April 6, 2013 by acg_mr

[bescotbeast]

_{Morning Al, I've just spent an enjoyable 30 minutes at work following your progress and tips within your light hearted thread. I hope you get as much enjoyment from your layout as I did simply reading about it.}

                                                                 _Regards

                                                                                                 _Simon

[cbeagleowner]

H Al. Thanks to reminding me we'd already chatted about the painting of the roof! Totally forgot!

 

Like the pics of Bakewell. I was there I the autumn. I think the ing that strikes me is how small it seems when you are there, shears I. Pictures it seems much roomier. It's a nice walk for Hassop to bakewell. How far south can you go before the path stops? Would be brilliant if one day they could reopen the walkway all the way to Rowsley. I won't hold my breath though :-)

[Alister_G]

_{Morning Al, I've just spent an enjoyable 30 minutes at work following your progress and tips within your light hearted thread. I hope you get as much enjoyment from your layout as I did simply reading about it.}

                                                                 _Regards

                                                                                                 _Simon

 

Hi Simon, thanks very much for your comments and interest, I'm certainly enjoying it so far!

 

 

H Al. Thanks to reminding me we'd already chatted about the painting of the roof! Totally forgot!

 

Like the pics of Bakewell. I was there I the autumn. I think the ing that strikes me is how small it seems when you are there, shears I. Pictures it seems much roomier. It's a nice walk for Hassop to bakewell. How far south can you go before the path stops? Would be brilliant if one day they could reopen the walkway all the way to Rowsley. I won't hold my breath though :-)

 

Hi Rich, thank you. Yes I agree, when you walk around it, it does seem small, and yet I've still had to squash it all slightly to fit it onto a 13' baseboard!!

 

It is a great walk, and of course, now they've re-opened the tunnels, it would be possible to walk (or cycle) all the way from Bakewell to Millers Dale.

 

Going south, you can walk as far as the north entrance of Haddon tunnel, which is just after the Combs viaduct. I believe the current Duke of Rutland (who owns Haddon) will not entertain the idea of the line through his estate being re-opened, which is a shame, as I think it would generate a lot of tourist traffic for Haddon.

 

However, Peak Rail would also have to re-profile the gradient out of Rowsley, and build two new bridges, so it wouldn't be a cheap undertaking.

[cbeagleowner]

H Al. Thanks for the Reply. I am at Hassop this Wednesday lunchtime for a meeting so I might take the opportunity to get some piccys

While I'm there. I think that there is more of note left at Bakewell though. Still the Hassop books are invaluable for research into that place.

 

One day I would love to walk the line, or cycle it. I'm only up for 1 day this week though taking the girls to see grandma and grandad so don't have time.

 

I would live to see Peak Rail reopen the line but I'm not sure that it will ever happen. I believe you're right that the Duke has said that the only railway that will go through his land is one built by network rail. And to be fair, they might be the only people who would be able to cross the A6. Maybe PR needs to get Roman Abramovich on board!

Edited April 8, 2013 by cbeagleowner

[Alister_G]

Signal Box!

 

As mentioned earlier in the thread, I had noticed that the Ratio 536 Midland Signal Box kit was quite a close match to the original prototype at Bakewell. Accordingly, I twisted my brother's arm into buying it me for Christmas.

 

I haven't made a plastic kit for over 30 years, so this was quite a challenge. I armed myself with a sharp knife, a bottle of MekPak and a small paint brush.

 

I followed the instructions carefully, and built the main structure quite quickly:

 

 

However, when I looked at a photo of the original, I realised my mistake: the prototype, whilst quite similar, was a lot taller. Coming over all rivet plank-counter, there are an extra 6 planks between the top of the windows and the middle cantrail timber where the floor level is.

 

I quickly removed the external paneling from the model with a bit of a struggle before the adhesive had set:

 

 

 

Then I realised I would have to cut away the lower section of wall below each window aperture so that I could move the outer panels down in relation to the framework:

 

 

That done, I could now reattach the outer panels in their new lower position.

 

 

This obviously leaves nasty looking gaps above each panel, and the main frame timbers stop in mid air. However, I plan to add plasticard above the panels, scored to the right width for the planks, and add frame sections from square section plastruct or similar. By the time its painted, I don't think it will look too bad.

 

I plan to add the windows after the main structure is painted, and then add internal detailing using the Scalescenes kit or similar before fixing the roof and all the external detail. I will have to modify or scratch build the steps, of course, as those in the kit are now not long enough.

 

Here's a photo of the prototype by Stan Roberts:

 

http://www.disused-stations.org.uk/b/bakewell/index131.shtml

 

Thanks for looking.

 

 

[Alister_G]

Update!

 

Firstly, the signal box. I have now added the plastruct and plasticard extra bits to fill in the gaps where I modded the Ratio kit, and have painted it. I'm not happy with the colour of the planking though, so I'm waiting for some different paint. To me, the cream that I've used looks too green, more so in daylight, perhaps, than the photo below shows.

 

 

So, I'm going to try Hornby Railmatch BR Cream instead, and see how that looks.

 

Layout wise, I've been slowly working my way around, cutting and laying cork underneath the track, ready for fixing it down. I've got about half way, at the moment. Once that's completed, and I'm happy with all the alignments, I can stick the cork down and then start wiring the droppers before sticking the track down and ballasting.

 

Here's a couple of shots to keep you interested.

 

 

 

As you can see I stuck the signal box on the layout to see how it will look.

 

I'm hoping to get lots more done by the end of this weekend, but I can't afford to buy much scenic stuff until after our holiday in May, So there won't be much that's worth photographing for a bit.

 

Thanks for looking.

[Alister_G]

Signal Box update.

 

I've now nearly completed the exterior of the signal box, including scratch building a new set of steps to replace the ones in the kit which were now too small.

 

 

I've now started to detail the interior. First, the floor, and then a wooden settle which was a feature of the prototype. I'm not sure yet whether that might be a bit big, but in photos I have found it does dominate the furnishings. Next, I'm going to try scratch building the lever frame, stove, desk and other interior fittings.

 

Does anybody know how I could convincingly model a ceramic sink, which was also in the original?

 

 

Thanks for looking.

 

 

[Alister_G]

Over the weekend, I've been having a go at scratch-building some furnishings for the interior of the signal box. This is the first time I've ever done any real scratch-building: that is, starting from nothing but a pile of Plastikard and coming up with a finished article, so please be gentle in your remarks!

 

What I've achieved after a number of attempts are the following: Two cupboards, a ceramic sink, a stove, a writing desk, (not shown) and a wooden settle.

 

 

I'd also like to introduce Stan, who will  be manning the box. Poor chap, he seems to be suffering from club-foot, and also doesn't look very happy about there being no handles on his cupboard doors. Or possibly it's his proximity to a stove built like a young blast-furnace?

 

 

Having placed the furnishings in the box, it is apparent that the stove is too big, so I'll have to start again with that (That'll be three times I've rebuilt it, each time smaller... Oh well). However, the rest of the furnishings look OK.

 

 

The discerning among you will notice the blooming great plasticard monstrosity which fills most of the floor. This was lever frame mark 2 - a vast improvement over mark 1 but still nothing like what I wanted. For posterity I've included below how I built it. However, neither 1 or 2 will be installed in the box, they aren't right. Midland lever frames were very distinctive, and whilst I know what I want it to look like, I haven't managed to do it properly yet.

 

More to follow, thanks for looking.

Edited May 6, 2013 by acg_mr

[Alister_G]

So, as promised, here's how I built lever frames mark 1 & 2.

 

The Midland pattern lever frame I am aiming to produce is very distinctive, as it sits above floor level, and all the locking is held in a section of the frame behind the lever pedestal.

 

I started with a sheet of thin plasticard, and marked out with pencil where the slots for the levers would go.

 

 

Then I cut out the slots leaving a comb effect.

 

 

I then glued the ends of the slots to a thicker sheet of plasticard.

 

 

When completely set, I then bent the whole "comb" round to the other side of the thicker sheet, and glued down the bit without the "teeth", leaving them to form a gentle curve which is the finished lever quadrant.

 

 

I then separated the finished quadrant from the thick sheet of card, and scored and folded the end of the locking box.

 

 

Finally, with more bits of thicker plasticard, I fashioned side and end plates for the frame.

 

 

I was sort of happy with this, for a while, but having been off doing other things, and then returning to it, and having tried it out in the signal box, I wasn't happy with the result, so I binned it and started again. You can see the second version in my previous post.

 

I'm still not happy. I haven't captured the essential shape of the Midland frame, so this one, also, will be binned, and I'll have another go in a few days.

 

Thanks for looking.

[bescotbeast]

So, as promised, here's how I built lever frames mark 1 & 2.

 

The Midland pattern lever frame I am aiming to produce is very distinctive, as it sits above floor level, and all the locking is held in a section of the frame behind the lever pedestal.

 

I started with a sheet of thin plasticard, and marked out with pencil where the slots for the levers would go.

 

sb-lev-frame1.jpg

 

Then I cut out the slots leaving a comb effect.

 

sb-lev-frame2.jpg

 

I then glued the ends of the slots to a thicker sheet of plasticard.

 

sb-lev-frame3.jpg

 

When completely set, I then bent the whole "comb" round to the other side of the thicker sheet, and glued down the bit without the "teeth", leaving them to form a gentle curve which is the finished lever quadrant.

 

sb-lev-frame4.jpg

 

I then separated the finished quadrant from the thick sheet of card, and scored and folded the end of the locking box.

 

sb-lev-frame5.jpg

 

Finally, with more bits of thicker plasticard, I fashioned side and end plates for the frame.

 

sb-lev-frame6.jpg

 

I was sort of happy with this, for a while, but having been off doing other things, and then returning to it, and having tried it out in the signal box, I wasn't happy with the result, so I binned it and started again. You can see the second version in my previous post.

 

I'm still not happy. I haven't captured the essential shape of the Midland frame, so this one, also, will be binned, and I'll have another go in a few days.

 

Thanks for looking.

Some great work here Al, I'm a fan of signalling and to see your work on expanding the MR Type4c is a joy to behold. Keep up the updates.

                                                 Simon

[Alister_G]

Right then!

 

This lever frame has been bugging me all day at work, and I was determined to get it right, so this evening I started again, using a different approach.

 

So here's mark 3.

 

First, I cut out all the parts I'd need to make a framework the correct shape:

 

 

Then I glued them all together to make the basic shape of the frame:

 

 

When that had dried, I took a pre-cut and folded sheet of thin plasticard and started gluing it to the frame:

 

 

I did it in stages, letting each bit harden in between, so that it would fit and shape to the intricate bits of the frame, but eventually after a couple of hours, I ended up with this:

 

 

I'm much happier with this, and think it captures the look of the Midland pattern lever-frame.

 

I would welcome any comments or suggestions.

 

The lever is one I knocked up quickly out of an off-cut of 20-thou card, but I might try and find some etched ones, as it looks too big and bulky.

 

Anyway, I asked Stan what he thought, but he doesn't look happy...

 

 

Joking apart, does this look too big compared to the signalman?

 

Should it be smaller?

 

I don't know now, beginning to doubt myself.

 

I'm going to paint it, and then see what it looks like.

 

More soon, thanks for looking.

Edited May 7, 2013 by acg_mr

[emt_911]

Alastair

 

It does look a bit big to me. How about this for reference http://www.eveningnews24.co.uk/polopoly_fs/cromer_railway_signalling_society_members_in_the_renovated_cromer_signal_box_1_918508!image/1764331881.jpg_gen/derivatives/landscape_630/1764331881.jpg

 

Duncan

[Alister_G]

Hi Duncan, thanks for your reply.

 

The image you link to is of the GWR / LNER pattern frame where the levers come up through the floor, and the quadrant is at floor level.

 

I'm trying to model the Midland pattern frame where the frame, quadrant, and interlocking are all above floor level, like these here:

 

http://www.signalbox.org/frames/mid.htm

 

Edit: There's a clearer picture on Captain Kernow's thread here:

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=blogentry&attach_id=75562

 

Edited May 8, 2013 by acg_mr

[bescotbeast]

Al excellent work on the MR tumbler frame with 6" lever spacing changed to 6" or 41/2"  when adopted by the LMS and R.S.Co, I used the LMS 1943 version whilst I was at Watery Lane and the BR(M) version whilst at Madeley Junction. Version No3 really looks to me like the MR frame, the only thing I would say is the lever needs to be thinner otherwise it will look great when it's painted and in the box interior.

                                                                                           Simon

Edited May 8, 2013 by bescotbeast

[Alister_G]

Al excellent work on the MR tumbler frame with 6" lever spacing changed to 6" or 41/2"  when adopted by the LMS and R.S.Co, I used the LMS 1943 version whilst I was at Watery Lane and the BR(M) version whilst at Madeley Junction. Version No3 really looks to me like the MR frame, the only thing I would say is the lever needs to be thinner otherwise it will look great when it's painted and in the box interior.

                                                                                           Simon

 

Hi Simon.

 

Thanks again for your reply, I think the mark 3 is just about right for the frame, I'm quite pleased with how it turned out.

 

I agree, the lever is way too bulky, but it was only a temporary one to give an idea of height and throw.

 

I'll get the frame painted up tonight and see if I can make some thinner levers, if not I'll try and find some etched ones I can buy.

 

Cheers,

 

Al

[bescotbeast]

Al if it's any help I can measure up a lever I've got in my loft that's from a BR frame to give you a rough idea on length and width etc.

                                               Simon

[Alister_G]

Al if it's any help I can measure up a lever I've got in my loft that's from a BR frame to give you a rough idea on length and width etc.

                                               Simon

 

That would be great if you could, thanks very much.

 

Cheers, Al

[Alister_G]

Just to finish off the build of the lever frame, here it is painted:

 

 

and here are some levers cut out of plasticard:

 

 

And finally levers added and painted:

 

 

...

 

 

And finally, here is a shot of the signal box on my little test plank. This is just for fun, and when it gets put on the proper layout it will be built on top of a stone foundation which will allow a gap under the front for point rodding etc.

 

This shot shows that there is still some tidying to do on the paintwork as well

 

 

As I said earlier, work on the layout proper has slowed as I need to save money for a holiday in a couple of weeks. I have completed the cork laying, and made a start on wiring the track, but none of that is particularly interesting.

 

Once the holiday is out of the way I can buy some materials to start scratch building the goods shed and station buildings, and also get paint and scenic scatters and stuff to get going on the layout.

 

That's all for now, thanks for looking.

[bescotbeast]

Al sorry for the time it's taken to get back with a measurement of a lever, case of having to tidy the loft to get to said lever   anyway from where the red paint starts which is where it would be visible from the top of the locking covers the length to the top of the lever handle (cut down lever) it is 110cms, the lever width tapers from 6cm to 4cm before the handle starts and the diameter is 1.5cms. Nice work on the box by the way.

                                                               Simon

[Alister_G]

That's great, thanks Simon. Sorry to cause you to go digging

 

In scale terms that works out at 14mm long tapering from 7.8mm to 5.2mm and a width of 1.9mm, I think, which isn't far off what I was working on as a guesstimate.

[Alister_G]

I've now completed the interior of the signal box, with the lever frame and block shelf added to the rest of the fittings.

 

Here's a couple of shots:

 

 

 

There probably won't be any more updates until I return from holiday in a fortnight's time, but then I can get stuck in to the scenery.

 

Thanks for looking.