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Project Builds, Detailing, Painting, Weathering

Athearn SD50 Clinic NS 5424


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Andrew, are you contemplating a British outline loco or a US one...? I ask, because if its a US one, I may well be able to furnish you with a bunch.

 

Let me know.

 

Cheers, Tony

 

 

Hi Tony,

 

I'd want to detail my Alco S-1, I'd like to make it as their Demonstrator. So you might be able to help out with pictures. My german stuff is N so bit small to get to detailed.

 

Cheers

Andrew

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Very nice Tony, subtle weathering and all certainly helps the image but the details really stand out now that we know what to look for. Only one catch, now all my stock looks like rubbish by comparison :rolleyes: But never mind, it was good of you to include the gestation period for this opus so that nobody gets the idea that it was an overnight job :biggrin_mini2:

 

Cheers, David

 

Hi Dave and thanks Dave, pleased you like my weathering style. The guys call it over here - 'soft' - weathering. I'm now learning the more contrasty weathering techniques, hand painted graffiti, that sort of thing. I might master it, who knows...? :unsure:

 

I'm sure your stock looks superb, your modelling style is probably different to mine, is all. We all have a signature and the deal is to enjoy the build.

 

I hope I can improve on it with my current major build.

 

Later, Tony

 

 

Some stunning photos of an exceptional model, Tony. I reckon that if you'd taken those final shots on a well scenicked layout you could pass them off as prototype shots B) B) B)

 

Wow and more wows, you flatter me Pugsley. I mean, after viewing those images of your 9F, I have to review what I do. They were mind blowing, especially that shot you made out in shaded natural sunlight. YOU should be teaching me for crying out loud. :good_mini:

 

Here's a shot that perhaps almost meets your criteria. I need to move a little faster continuing with my layout building, just started this past Christmas. Or build a small photo diorama for that very thing. Anyhow.....hope this works for you.

 

Cheers, Tony

 

3731_NS5424TopGon.jpg

 

Excellent - really worth the time and trouble you took.

 

Thank you Phil, hope you enjoyed the whole sorry tale. :D Cheers, Tony

 

Gorgeous! Now all I need is an extra 24 hours in each day so I can follow your lead. :)

 

Cheers, Dave

 

Oh yeah, couldn't I do with a 48 hr day, do twice as much. Maybe its time I should practice insomnia as a way of life.... ;) There never seems to be enough time, but I have studied this and have established that I have the same number of hours as everyone else. 24 to be accurate,

 

Later Dave, be cool.

Cheers, Tony

 

 

Hi Tony,

 

I'd want to detail my Alco S-1, I'd like to make it as their Demonstrator. So you might be able to help out with pictures. My german stuff is N so bit small to get to detailed.

 

Cheers, Andrew

 

Hi Andrew,

 

S1 pix are as rare as rocking horse ****. Still, out of the archives I raised two. Have plenty of S2 and S3 images, but S1's.....tough. These photos belong to my good friend Warren Calloway and after asking for and receiving his permission to post them here, rather than plop them in this thread I have bunged them on Tony S's Mod chaos.

 

Andrew, I reckon you should build an S3, far more images available if you're going the super detail route. The amount of photographic info is always my guide in making a decision what model I build. It drives me mad to attempt a build without the info, all you'll be doing is guessing and eventually you'll be dissatisfied with where you are at because of the lack of info.

 

The period you model German N, is it current..?

 

Cheers, Tony

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Tony, you flatter me, thanks for the kind words.

 

That pic is almost it - you just need a lighter background. Please excuse the crudely bodged Photoshopping of your pic, but that's all you need to make it look truly real:

post-6668-127826716707_thumb.jpg

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Tony, you flatter me, thanks for the kind words.

 

That pic is almost it - you just need a lighter background. Please excuse the crudely bodged Photoshopping of your pic, but that's all you need to make it look truly real:

post-6668-127826716707_thumb.jpg

 

Martin, you are excused. As it happens I did this shot in a heavy thunderstorm. No not really, only kidding. I do like the light blue, specially the fluffy edges. :P :P :P

 

Keep up your good work.

 

Cheers, Tony

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  • 2 weeks later...

Tony just bought some Cannon and Co stuff direct from them as no where has it in stock in the UK - the fuel tank details will be invaluable on my UK EMD Class 66 build which is inspired by you and Pugsley (your SD50 and his EMD Class 59).

In the photo of the SD50 and the NS coal hopper above, I notice the inside frame of the hopper is unweathered (light grey - behind the truck) - is this deliberate or could it do with a coat of road dirt? Inspirational as usual anyhow :)

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Hi Andrew,

 

S1 pix are as rare as rocking horse ****. Still, out of the archives I raised two. Have plenty of S2 and S3 images, but S1's.....tough. These photos belong to my good friend Warren Calloway and after asking for and receiving his permission to post them here, rather than plop them in this thread I have bunged them on Tony S's Mod chaos.

 

Andrew, I reckon you should build an S3, far more images available if you're going the super detail route. The amount of photographic info is always my guide in making a decision what model I build. It drives me mad to attempt a build without the info, all you'll be doing is guessing and eventually you'll be dissatisfied with where you are at because of the lack of info.

 

The period you model German N, is it current..?

 

Cheers, Tony

 

Hi Tony,

 

Thanks for getting some pictures. Only reason for thinking of doing an S-1 was I got given an Atlas model of 1. I wonder how difficult it would be to convert to an S-3.

 

 

The German layout is hopefully going to be a multi year idea. Having looked at loads of pictures of branchline stations and surroundings things don't seam to change much. Obviously things like people and vehicles do but the look of the buildings don't seam to change. My attempt at a thread is here My layout Opps I need to update it.rolleyes.gif

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Tony,

 

I've just caught up with the thread after a few months away. Your work sir, is absoultely stunning.

 

The level of detail which you've added, together with the effort it has taken is awesome.

 

Thanks Branchie, I hope to post some more of my builds as they progress. Taking a break at this time working on a lot of outstanding jobs and trying to clear the backlog.

 

Cheers, Tony

 

 

Awesome stuff Tony

 

Have you faded that Conrail blue? Looks superb. cool.gif

 

Hi Martyn,

 

I didn't fade it purposely to a set specific shade. What happened is the weathering brought the shade down a couple of stops, as it were. I was cognizant of the original Athearn colour which was way too bright and blue, blue in terms of an almost yellow cast to the blue, so it was on my mind to temper the vibrance of the original colour when I was weathering and my efforts worked out pretty well. The problem with weathering to a specific shade of fade is - will it come out right? What I do these days is spray on a piece of scrap the best colour match as I can to the original colour, although I know it isn't the same paint as what Athearn had sprayed on the shell in the first place, but what else can you do..? Then I experiment with shading from that point. I use alcohol in the main to change the shading of fade, or the degree of fading if you like. One thing I notice on the prototype is that the more I see heavy sun fade the more other colours show up. As you know all paint colours are a mix of at least a minimum of two pigments and often more. The sun will fade one colour faster than another so the prototype will often show a magenta cast to a gray then on another vehicle, perhaps the sun may fade another vehicle and it will bring out a green in the gray, and so it goes.

 

Being a prototype modeller has its pros but also its cons. Anyway Martyn, hope this short explanation has opened up a view of how I work on my weathering. I continue to experiment all the time using a variety of materials. I'm doing a weathering clinic for Phil Atkinson of Hobby Holidays in November and the main theme is weathering without using an airbrush. He has a web site, just Google - Hobby Holidays.

 

Thanks for your appreciation of my SD50, as I said in a post somewhere to you before, I hope it will grace the rails of your club layout one day.

 

Cheers, Tony

 

 

Tony, I've got to say that that SD50 is the best I've seen. You're an artist.

 

You from around Greensboro? I used to live on The Cardinal just north of the airport.

 

Best, Pete.

 

Hi Pete,

 

No, I live right on the Southern edge of Gaston County, NC. I can walk and cross into York County, SC, from my property line. I do know Greensboro a fair bit, I'm the organisor of the South Eastern States RPM meet. We use the old but recently refurbished REA building (Now Greensboro Amtrak Station) as our venue, its pretty cool, like being back in the mid 50's. Our meet will be the third this year. Details here: http://www.rpmcarolinasgreensboro.org

 

Pleased you like my SD50. I should perhaps post some photos of other locos I have made, although they are all pre SD50 and I try to improve over my last build. I'm looking to improve with my next build, currently in progress.

 

Cheers, Tony

 

 

Tony just bought some Cannon and Co stuff direct from them as no where has it in stock in the UK - the fuel tank details will be invaluable on my UK EMD Class 66 build which is inspired by you and Pugsley (your SD50 and his EMD Class 59).

In the photo of the SD50 and the NS coal hopper above, I notice the inside frame of the hopper is unweathered (light grey - behind the truck) - is this deliberate or could it do with a coat of road dirt? Inspirational as usual anyhow :)

 

 

Hi James,

 

Good news. Yep I agree, there are a good few useful parts on that Cannon fuel detail fret that will be perfect for a class 66. I think the class 66 is a fabulous engine to do when it comes to detail. All that delicious pipework under the sill. Time consuming yes, but if you get close to all of it done, there's going to be a couple of modelling compromises where you can't do it all, we know, it will look amazing. Not sure if you have given any though to some of the piping and what to use, but I use very fine solder for pipework these days, it bends super easily without cracking on the outside of the bend, paints nice too.

 

Aha, the TopGon unpainted. Not so much deliberate, James, more that I picked up a half weathered TopGon when I shot that photo. I have some 38 to do and a good number are in various stages of weathering. But good catch, my bad for not inspecting it and using a completed weathered TopGon. Thank you for noticing it, now that's another critique I'll take to the bank and look twice for these small details when using a vehicle for a photo shoot. I can post several images of completed TopGons if ya like, all weathered slightly differently. :diablo_mini:

 

Talking with Martyn here in this post about colour differences. When NS made the decision to re-body those TopGons, they were painted by a number of different firms, three I think, and is the reason why the fading on them is quite different. Some have a green cast to them, others a magenta gray cast and others that have maintained their original battleship gray colour. The paint also makes a difference to how the coal dust adheres to the panels as well. The 41XXX series TopGon looks like it has a coating of glue as a good many of TopGons in this series holds coal dust to the panels far better than many of the other series. Likewise rust appears in one specific place on another series and not in the same place on any of the others.

 

Dontcha just love prototype modelling... :D

 

Hope I can be of inspiration again when I post other bits and bobs here on RMWeb.

 

Cheers, Tony

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  • 1 year later...

This thread/topic was in a completely different forum to USA & Canadian Railroads. With Tony Sisson's approval we have had it moved by Andy Y into this new sub-fora.

 

Very inspiring modelling!!!

 

Best, Pete.

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Thanks Pete, much appreciated. I'm pretty sure there has been a lot of new members here on RMWeb that never knew this thread existed. Hope some of my modelling techniques may be of help in their modelling pursuits.

 

Cheers, Tony

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Was a real pleasure re-reading all this last night. Tony, one question I meant to ask at the time, but never got round to, was about your jigs for drilling handrail stanchions. Everyone out there with an Atlas Genset, for instance, would surely be interested. What do your drilling jigs look like? And how are they used (I know, to put a drill bit thru, but you know what I mean!)

 

Any chance of a wee tutorial next time you're doing a set?

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Was a real pleasure re-reading all this last night. Tony, one question I meant to ask at the time, but never got round to, was about your jigs for drilling handrail stanchions. Everyone out there with an Atlas Genset, for instance, would surely be interested. What do your drilling jigs look like? And how are they used (I know, to put a drill bit thru, but you know what I mean!)

 

Any chance of a wee tutorial next time you're doing a set?

 

Jon, a mini tute is already in the can. Have done a few clinics on this at the RPM's. Will get it done for you and anyone else interested. I'll have to excuse myself for the next few days as I'm off to the Savannah, GA. RPM meet early a.m. tomorrow followed by a week in FL. Will get it done as I find time to post, no sweat.

 

Cheers, Tony

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Tony

 

Only just scanned back through your topic looking at the photos.

 

Excellent modelling and with the photoshopped photo i thought it was a photo of the real thing!

 

Ian

 

Cheers, Ian. Glad you enjoyed it. In fact I'm pleased I suggested to got it transferred over. I think it does more good here than in the WFRM club room area.

 

Cheers, Tony

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Jon, a mini tute is already in the can. Have done a few clinics on this at the RPM's. Will get it done for you and anyone else interested. I'll have to excuse myself for the next few days as I'm off to the Savannah, GA. RPM meet early a.m. tomorrow followed by a week in FL. Will get it done as I find time to post, no sweat.

 

Cheers, Tony

 

Yes, please, Tony!

 

Gawd I haven't been to Savannah for 20 years.........I remember that movie better. Now Charleston, I like - no swamp!

 

Best, Pete.

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Yes, please, Tony!

 

Gawd I haven't been to Savannah for 20 years.........I remember that movie better. Now Charleston, I like - no swamp!

 

Best, Pete.

 

Pete, next year. Drive to my place, stay over and we can pair up and enjoy Savannah RPM meet 2013. My RPM schedule this year is - Jim Six's Great RR Symposium in S. Bend, IN. in mid April - Collinsville, IL. (St Louis) in July followed by the Mid Continent in Wichita, KS. in November. Clinics at South Bend and Wichita.

 

Cheers, Tony

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