RMweb Premium Barry O Posted April 30, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted April 30, 2021 Cut the front plate on my Hornby Dublo Duchess, Romford wheels fitted. Neodinium Magnet fitted.. it still doesn't look as good as the latest offerings .. but it can pull a house down! 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryD1471 Posted April 30, 2021 Share Posted April 30, 2021 3 hours ago, Barry O said: Cut the front plate on my Hornby Dublo Duchess, Romford wheels fitted. Neodinium Magnet fitted.. it still doesn't look as good as the latest offerings .. but it can pull a house down! This is such familiar territory for me. Really nice job there, Barry. That looks exactly the same spec as a number of my pacifics, but your paint job is definitely superior to mine! And I certainly endorse your comments about the use of neodymium magnets; they are VERY effective. The old H/D valve gear/ motion also looks very good too. Even if it's not quite accurate, I believe it still looks very good, and as for pulling power, 14 bogies.... no sweat. Terry D 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MacDuff999 Posted May 1, 2021 Share Posted May 1, 2021 Not to worry. It was worth a try, considering the number you have built so far. Ian. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MacDuff999 Posted May 6, 2021 Share Posted May 6, 2021 I know Terry sent me some information as to how he did the conversion, and I will be referring back to that as things progress. I now have a Comet chassis kit, and have assembled the mainframes on to a pair of their chassis jigs, for a trial fit. It looks not too bad, slotted into the under-side of the H/D body, so I am hoping that fixing the chassis itself when properly assembled, won't be too challenging a task. But then comes the valve gear! I do recall someone suggesting the use of Markits crossheads instead of Comet, due to their smoother operation. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TerryD1471 Posted May 7, 2021 Share Posted May 7, 2021 23 hours ago, MacDuff999 said: I know Terry sent me some information as to how he did the conversion, and I will be referring back to that as things progress. I now have a Comet chassis kit, and have assembled the mainframes on to a pair of their chassis jigs, for a trial fit. It looks not too bad, slotted into the under-side of the H/D body, so I am hoping that fixing the chassis itself when properly assembled, won't be too challenging a task. But then comes the valve gear! I do recall someone suggesting the use of Markits crossheads instead of Comet, due to their smoother operation. I agree with you about being reluctant to use Comet crossheads. The major snag with them is that several components have to be soldered together and then when you try to attach the connecting rods so that they pivot OK, you run the risk of unsoldering the previously attached bits! I have used some crossheads (lost wax castings, origins uncertain!) and I would guess that the Markits ones are similar. Being one piece castings, you aren't at risk of them coming to bits when attaching the conrods, or the drop links. Happy constructing! Terry 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
92220 Posted May 7, 2021 Author Share Posted May 7, 2021 I find Comet crossheads require quite a lot of fettling both for the connecting rod little end joint, and to run smoothly on the slidebars. They are quite hard (although not the hardest I’ve seen) lost wax brass components, so they take a while. If you have a good quality flat needle file that is the perfect thickness, the grooves for the slidebars could be filed fairly quickly but you’d still need to take care. They need the drop links soldered on but this is still a bigger joint over a larger area than soldering the brass pin for the union link (?) to that, so really shouldn’t be an issue. The piston rods need a little tidying up, more if you do what I do and insert the piston rod into some brass tube soldered into the cylinder, which I find gives much smoother running and a more realistic look. Markits LMS crossheads are beautifully smoothly machined, with matching perfectly smooth piston and tube. Although it’s a while since I last used them, as I recall, you do need to trim the top layer of the connecting rod short of the little end so that you can insert it between the inner and outer layers of the crosshead. You need to alter the Comet slidebars only to use one layer thickness rather than laminating two together. This is a little fiddly because the Comet ones are designed around being assembled as two laminated layers. Once done there is very little fettling and cleaning. Markits sell bespoke drop links for different locos. On balance I would say Markits ones are marginally less work in total, neater and smoother. Also they are more expensive. Comet fettled and with brass tube Comet on 46145 Markits on 46245 Iain 6 4 1 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post 92220 Posted May 9, 2021 Author Popular Post Share Posted May 9, 2021 (edited) 3 Black Fives finished ready for weathering etc 45027 needed glazing and the backhead completing. Front steam pipe removed. All DJH with a fair few detail additions. LFB pulling a rivetted tender 45034 I built 3 years ago and never got round to fully painting and lining. Unusual SFB with added top feed as discussed back in the thread somewhere. Hornby body and tender with many mods, Comet frames. Thanks to Pete for a (correct) short chimney 44875 as recently documented. LFB welded tender DJH considerably longer than Hornby. Never noticed before today. Now usually when I post a photo of a Black 5 I find I have got an important detail (or 7) wrong...... Iain Edited May 9, 2021 by 92220 To add something 17 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
92220 Posted May 9, 2021 Author Share Posted May 9, 2021 46251 City of Nottingham awaiting delivery of etched plates. Otherwise finished and ready for weathering etc. I removed some of the awful rtr weathering with t cut and then gave it 3 coats of Klear: I think it turned out ok? Iain 18 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold MikeParkin65 Posted May 9, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 9, 2021 9 minutes ago, 92220 said: 46251 City of Nottingham awaiting delivery of etched plates. Otherwise finished and ready for weathering etc. I removed some of the awful rtr weathering with t cut and then gave it 3 coats of Klear: I think it turned out ok? Iain Inspirational. So tempted to give up this afternoons track maintenance and have a go at my own 46251 instead. Is that the new style rear frame fitted to the original chassis or complete chassis replacement ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
92220 Posted May 9, 2021 Author Share Posted May 9, 2021 Thank you Mike. I fitted the new rear frames to an existing Hornby chassis I had. I could have used the Comet extensions but I had this Hornby one in a drawer and went for it. The chassis came from under 46248, but I had made mistakes adding lead so the body and chassis were no longer compatible. Hence I made Comet frames for 46248, sold the chassis for 46251 and mated these two plus Comet bogie. Plenty of extra work went on but in the end I have another half decent Coronation for not much. It will pull 10 including 5 kits quite happily so this will do fine. Iain 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark axlecounter Posted May 9, 2021 Share Posted May 9, 2021 Mmmmmmm, black 5s (drooling ) 1 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cb900f Posted May 9, 2021 Share Posted May 9, 2021 Nice models Iain another dozen should see you right. Pete 1 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuperD Posted May 11, 2021 Share Posted May 11, 2021 Hi, I don't know how I came across this thread, but I've just spent a couple pf hours reading it. I'm absolutely amazed at the building quality you achieve. Not only in the detail but also the tremendous pulling power. I'm new to the hobby with nothing running yet, but I've acquired quite a bit of stock and fitted lighting to all my coaches, including putting a red LED in a "springside" tail lamp. I'm now going to have a go at kit building. I've ordered a Comet 4F chassis for starters , although I have no mechanical leanings, so to speak. I like the 4F but the tender driven ones have no pulling power, so hopefully a white metal kit on this will address that. I've just ordered an etch bender, my first step on the kit building road. I doubt I'll reach your standards but will certainly try, so be ready for lots of pleas for help LOL! Cheers John 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
92220 Posted May 12, 2021 Author Share Posted May 12, 2021 (edited) On 29/05/2017 at 21:27, farren said: I presume you have this photo already @farren By any chance, do you have a date for this photo? Trying to work out when 45034 had mudhole covers and when it didn’t. I think this photo below is probably in 1960-61 ish - AWS fitted but no warnings for overhead electric cables was my reasoning. I’ve fitted AWS to 45034 but I haven’t removed the mudhole covers. Iain Edited May 12, 2021 by 92220 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold farren Posted May 12, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 12, 2021 Sumer 1959 https://www.warwickshirerailways.com/lms/lnwrbns_br336.htm 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
92220 Posted May 13, 2021 Author Share Posted May 13, 2021 Thanks Farren, that’s perfect. I think mudhole covers have to come off. Glad it’s a Hornby one not a metal one! Iain Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MacDuff999 Posted July 18, 2021 Share Posted July 18, 2021 A query regarding tenders gents. I have started work on a DJH Ivatt version of the 'Coronation' class, and am unsure which way up the tender base plate should go. The narrower ends of the triangular? support plates along the base plate edges are half-etched along the sides of one face of the brass base plate etch. Am I right in assuming that these should be on the under-side of the base plate? Nothing in the usual Loco Profile book drawings makes it clear. Advice please. Thanks. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cb900f Posted July 18, 2021 Share Posted July 18, 2021 On my Black 5s I have them underneath but if you want confirmation google LMS Duchess tenders (images) there are some pics on there that clearly show the support plates underneath. Pete 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MacDuff999 Posted July 18, 2021 Share Posted July 18, 2021 Thanks Pete. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Tomlinson Posted July 18, 2021 Share Posted July 18, 2021 On 09/05/2021 at 13:36, 92220 said: 46251 City of Nottingham awaiting delivery of etched plates. Otherwise finished and ready for weathering etc. I removed some of the awful rtr weathering with t cut and then gave it 3 coats of Klear: I think it turned out ok? Iain That looks terrrific, especially without the awful factory weathering. Is the Kleer brushed on or sprayed, I ask as spraying doesn't seem to work that well for me. Many thanks, John. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
92220 Posted July 18, 2021 Author Share Posted July 18, 2021 11 hours ago, MacDuff999 said: A query regarding tenders gents. I have started work on a DJH Ivatt version of the 'Coronation' class, and am unsure which way up the tender base plate should go. The narrower ends of the triangular? support plates along the base plate edges are half-etched along the sides of one face of the brass base plate etch. Am I right in assuming that these should be on the under-side of the base plate? Nothing in the usual Loco Profile book drawings makes it clear. Advice please. Thanks. 10 hours ago, cb900f said: On my Black 5s I have them underneath but if you want confirmation google LMS Duchess tenders (images) there are some pics on there that clearly show the support plates underneath. Pete Yes, Pete is correct. 3 hours ago, John Tomlinson said: That looks terrrific, especially without the awful factory weathering. Is the Kleer brushed on or sprayed, I ask as spraying doesn't seem to work that well for me. Many thanks, John. just brushed on John. 1/2” flat brush. Iain 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MacDuff999 Posted July 20, 2021 Share Posted July 20, 2021 I can't remember if anyone has mentioned this before within the thread, but has someone converted an Ivatt 'Coronation' to a 'City' or Duchess'? If so, is it a fairly straightforward conversion, or more complex? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MacDuff999 Posted July 27, 2021 Share Posted July 27, 2021 Just started work on the DJH Model Loco Ivatt variant of the Stanier 'Coronation', and noticed the instructions mention use of 26mm drivers. Surely the class driving wheel diameter was 6'9"? Or was the kit designed for slightly smaller wheels? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Joseph_Pestell Posted July 27, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 27, 2021 27 minutes ago, MacDuff999 said: Just started work on the DJH Model Loco Ivatt variant of the Stanier 'Coronation', and noticed the instructions mention use of 26mm drivers. Surely the class driving wheel diameter was 6'9"? Or was the kit designed for slightly smaller wheels? Classic kit designers' conundrum. Given that the wheels will have over-sized flanges (exc P4 possibly), what measurement should one use? Anything oversized will probably cause problems somewhere. In service, wheels could reduce in size by as much as 3" diameter due to wear before being replaced. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted July 27, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 27, 2021 The kit was designed for the old Romford deep flanges, Markits 27mm wheels will fit, Gibson even better. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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