RMweb Premium Mallard60022 Posted September 20, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 20, 2018 Well here are the test pieces of ex-teddy rested in place on the layout. It maybe needs a little toning down and as Julia mentioned above a spray with some Matt varnish to take the shine off, but otherwise I think it looks ok, and i'm pleased with the variations in tone and colour, something which is difficult to achieve with static grass I feel. CU0J0364.jpg Must sort out that errant piece of cable trunking though! Tom. Some time ago Tom but have I missed how you coloured this 'fur'? I am about to start to experiment with some for 4mm. Yours looks really good. Did you retain it by the way? Phil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold TomE Posted September 21, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 21, 2018 Some time ago Tom but have I missed how you coloured this 'fur'? I am about to start to experiment with some for 4mm. Yours looks really good. Did you retain it by the way? Phil Hi Phil. The basic method was covered in this blog entry: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/347/entry-13164-ropley-no-bears-were-harmed-in-the-making-of/ The fur will probably require less savage trimming for 4mm, but if you try this method I would still recommend cutting it before using any paint to colour it. Hope this helps! Tom. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atso Posted September 22, 2018 Share Posted September 22, 2018 Since the beginning of the year, I've been tinkering with a 3D printed GNR articulated twin. The prototype was rebuilt from two six wheel vestibule coaches and fitted with Fox bogies. As something to do while waiting for test prints (and when I almost lost the will to live with CAD), I've been building the bogies for this twin using the 2mm Association etches and have, over the last few days, built the three required. They are fitted with the Association's N Gauge coach wheels and, having gotten to this point, I couldn't resist placing them under the 3D printed coach bodies to get an idea how things would look when I finally complete this (no sole bars or any kind of underframe yet). This is very much another one of my 'tinker with as and when I have time' builds so I doubt it'll be finished any time soon - if I can have a running model by the end of January, I'll be happy enough! 10 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nig H Posted September 22, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 22, 2018 Hi Phil. The basic method was covered in this blog entry: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/347/entry-13164-ropley-no-bears-were-harmed-in-the-making-of/ The fur will probably require less savage trimming for 4mm, but if you try this method I would still recommend cutting it before using any paint to colour it. Hope this helps! Tom. Hi, Sam Kennion brought to my attention the method shown in this Youtube link, using cat fur. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5nTtOOKan-U. I haven't tried it myself, but it might be worth considering. Nig H Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold TomE Posted September 22, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 22, 2018 Hi, Sam Kennion brought to my attention the method shown in this Youtube link, using cat fur. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5nTtOOKan-U. I haven't tried it myself, but it might be worth considering. Nig H Tom. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mallard60022 Posted September 22, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 22, 2018 Hi, Sam Kennion brought to my attention the method shown in this Youtube link, using cat fur. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5nTtOOKan-U. I haven't tried it myself, but it might be worth considering. Nig H Thanks buddy. My pu##y died ages ago so no such material available here these days. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carl Posted September 23, 2018 Share Posted September 23, 2018 Been playing around with bits of card to make the first section of my Priory Road station buildings while trying to decide exactly how and where I want them as I am not at all sure what looks best or right. rmweb 02.jpg rmweb 03.jpg rmweb 04.jpg Hi Izzy, Did you use a digital card/paper cutter to cut those? Very impressive! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert_N-Nm Posted September 23, 2018 Share Posted September 23, 2018 Weichenbau in 1:160 by RCW1810, on Flickr Weichenbau in 1:160 by RCW1810, on Flickr Weichen-bau teil 2 by RCW1810, on Flickr Not quite 2mm fine but close to I guess, a first attempt at rail building with code 40 on 9mm for a European (possibly Swiss or maybe Tsjech diorama). Next up is staining the wooden sleepers before starting the process of soldering (which is going to be a challenge for me). Any tip wil be welcome for soldering the track onto the cast bases. Kind Regards Robert 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Kris Posted September 23, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 23, 2018 Weichenbau in 1:160 by RCW1810, on Flickr Weichenbau in 1:160 by RCW1810, on Flickr Weichen-bau teil 2 by RCW1810, on Flickr Not quite 2mm fine but close to I guess, a first attempt at rail building with code 40 on 9mm for a European (possibly Swiss or maybe Tsjech diorama). Next up is staining the wooden sleepers before starting the process of soldering (which is going to be a challenge for me). Any tip wil be welcome for soldering the track onto the cast bases. Kind Regards Robert Fascinating to see this system being used. Horrifically expensive though. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Izzy Posted September 23, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 23, 2018 Hi Izzy, Did you use a digital card/paper cutter to cut those? Very impressive! Hi Carl, Thanks for the kind comment. No, just my standard combo of a Swann Morton No 11 blade in a No 3 handle. My wife, (into card making in a big way), did look at digital cutters a while back but found them wanting in several areas. We do get through fair quantities of SM blades though (the non-surgical variety) so buy them in boxes of 20 packs a time (5 blades a pack). I have finished the second building now, it's twin to sit on the opposite platform. Designing the canopy between the two is next. It should sit height-wise between the two horizontal stone strips. Izzy 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert_N-Nm Posted September 23, 2018 Share Posted September 23, 2018 Fascinating to see this system being used. Horrifically expensive though. Very true, but I've tried some others and so far this seems more of a success then the others (N-tram, Finescale-und-mehr). That said, I obviously haven't done any soldering yet so that might change. Luckily the ground area would be limited to 60 by 15cm at the most, so its quickly filled with these long switches. Kind Regards, Robert Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atso Posted September 26, 2018 Share Posted September 26, 2018 I've started a bit of bow pen lining this even for a commission. The slightly wonky line under the cab Windows has been corrected. Hopefully I'll get a chance to put the red on tomorrow - I'm not trying to put the cream line on in this scale... 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Smith Posted September 27, 2018 Share Posted September 27, 2018 Just coming off my workbench are my next 3 coaches. These are all my own work being etched by PPD from my own artwork, including the 6 wheeled chassis which have a floating centre axle. I'll put a little more detail about them (including some close ups in my Modbury thread later. Ian 10 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert_N-Nm Posted September 30, 2018 Share Posted September 30, 2018 Weichenbau teil 3 by RCW1810, on Flickr Bit further - Dark brown stain on the sleepers and first soldering. Now awaiting a new track cutter as I have managed to misplace that somewhere. Kind Regards, Robert 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DavidLong Posted October 1, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 1, 2018 Fascinating to see this system being used. Horrifically expensive though. €109 per point! Makes Fast Tracks look like a snip. David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Smith Posted October 2, 2018 Share Posted October 2, 2018 Just finished the build of the next 6 wheeler in the set, a Diagram U21 1st/2nd Composite with centre luggage compartment. The Underframe (the wiggly bit of wire at one end represents the vacuum pipe and is used as a hook to link to the next coach in the set) : Body and Underframed united (although body merely plonked on top) : All ready now for a coat of primer, before heading to the paint shop proper :-) Ian 11 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
2mmKiwi Posted October 3, 2018 Share Posted October 3, 2018 Just finished the build of the next 6 wheeler in the set, a Diagram U21 1st/2nd Composite with centre luggage compartment. The Underframe (the wiggly bit of wire at one end represents the vacuum pipe and is used as a hook to link to the next coach in the set) : underframe1.JPG Body and Underframed united (although body merely plonked on top) : U21.JPG All ready now for a coat of primer, before heading to the paint shop proper :-) Ian Hi Ian, It would be most interesting to see your paint process if you can spare the time. The paintwork of your recent 6 wheeled coaches is so precise and neat, I'm intrigued about how you do this. Steve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Smith Posted October 3, 2018 Share Posted October 3, 2018 (edited) Hi Ian, It would be most interesting to see your paint process if you can spare the time. The paintwork of your recent 6 wheeled coaches is so precise and neat, I'm intrigued about how you do this. Steve Steve, The painting is really nothing special. After priming, the areas that will be chocolate are masked off (and the roof), and the cream upper panelling sprayed. After a day or two of drying and hardening (with the masking removed), the cream side panelling is masked off with Humbrol Maskol (I assume that can be had in New Zealand?) - I allow it to completely fill the windows too. Once that is dry, the chocolate lower panels and ends are sprayed (I use Precision Paints GWR Coach Cream and GWR Coach Brown). Once dry the maskol is removed (don't leave it on for more than a day or so as it becomes difficult to remove after that (how do I know that I wonder?!)) Then comes the fun part - the black moulding lines are ruled on with a 0.1mm nib Rotring Isograph Pen with Black Rotring Ink. For some reason the ink takes well to the cream surface but not to the chocolate (perhaps it's because the cream has had the Maskol on it, I don't know), so I only line the cream areas with the pen. The moulding lines on the chocolate panels are picked out with Humbrol Matt Black and a fine brush, any errant paint on the panels is quickly removed with a thinners moistened brush. The window bolections (and door droplights) are carefully painted with Precision Paints Mahogany - getting the right consistency of paint is key as it needs to flow easily off the brush but not so runny that it leaches onto mouldings or cream paint. When all of that is done and dry, it is then into the iterative rounds of tidying up. Any spills on the cream or chocolate panelling are touched up with one or two very thin coats of the relevant colour using capillary action to draw the paint up to the raised mouldings but not onto them. Any touching up of the mouldings is done with the pen - this time because the mouldings around the chocolate panelling are painted matt black the ink will take quite well if necessary. Any touching up of the door droplights really can be iterative, I seem to apply mahogany then cream then mahogany again until I've got them looking ok from normal viewing distance - unfortunately the camera tells all!! Once happy that it is all as good as I'm going to get it, I then apply the transfers. A protective spray of satin varnish (again Precision Paints) finishes the pretty bits. Finally, I brush paint the roof with a suitably smokey grey colour. Once all of that is dry, the glazing is added using the Associations Cobex sheet which is held in place with "Canopy Glue". And onto the next one! Ian Edit : I forgot to add that before I varnish the model, I carefully scrape the paint off the door handles and G scroll handles to leave a nice shiny brass finish. Edited October 3, 2018 by Ian Smith Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert_N-Nm Posted October 3, 2018 Share Posted October 3, 2018 Weichenbau teil 4 by RCW1810, on Flickr Weichenbau teil 5 by RCW1810, on Flickr Majority of the soldering done. Next up is a clean up, expensive kit to build but good fun. Yes indeed its not one to build a complex multi switch layout with that fills a room because the costs but a small diorama should be fine. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
2mmKiwi Posted October 3, 2018 Share Posted October 3, 2018 Steve, The painting is really nothing special. After priming, the areas that will be chocolate are masked off (and the roof), and the cream upper panelling sprayed. After a day or two of drying and hardening (with the masking removed), the cream side panelling is masked off with Humbrol Maskol (I assume that can be had in New Zealand?) - I allow it to completely fill the windows too. Once that is dry, the chocolate lower panels and ends are sprayed (I use Precision Paints GWR Coach Cream and GWR Coach Brown). Once dry the maskol is removed (don't leave it on for more than a day or so as it becomes difficult to remove after that (how do I know that I wonder?!)) Then comes the fun part - the black moulding lines are ruled on with a 0.1mm nib Rotring Isograph Pen with Black Rotring Ink. For some reason the ink takes well to the cream surface but not to the chocolate (perhaps it's because the cream has had the Maskol on it, I don't know), so I only line the cream areas with the pen. The moulding lines on the chocolate panels are picked out with Humbrol Matt Black and a fine brush, any errant paint on the panels is quickly removed with a thinners moistened brush. The window bolections (and door droplights) are carefully painted with Precision Paints Mahogany - getting the right consistency of paint is key as it needs to flow easily off the brush but not so runny that it leaches onto mouldings or cream paint. When all of that is done and dry, it is then into the iterative rounds of tidying up. Any spills on the cream or chocolate panelling are touched up with one or two very thin coats of the relevant colour using capillary action to draw the paint up to the raised mouldings but not onto them. Any touching up of the mouldings is done with the pen - this time because the mouldings around the chocolate panelling are painted matt black the ink will take quite well if necessary. Any touching up of the door droplights really can be iterative, I seem to apply mahogany then cream then mahogany again until I've got them looking ok from normal viewing distance - unfortunately the camera tells all!! Once happy that it is all as good as I'm going to get it, I then apply the transfers. A protective spray of satin varnish (again Precision Paints) finishes the pretty bits. Finally, I brush paint the roof with a suitably smokey grey colour. Once all of that is dry, the glazing is added using the Associations Cobex sheet which is held in place with "Canopy Glue". And onto the next one! Ian Edit : I forgot to add that before I varnish the model, I carefully scrape the paint off the door handles and G scroll handles to leave a nice shiny brass finish. Thanks for the painting overview Ian - you do a superb job, in my opinion the best coach painting in our scale. There are a few good key points I note and will tuck away. We don't have precision paints in NZ, I managed to bring some back from a UK trip one year and they are very good. Steve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coal Tank Posted October 4, 2018 Share Posted October 4, 2018 Hi there was an article sin MRJ 52 or 53 I can't find it as I've just moved that shows the painting and lining of 4mm LNWR coaches by Jol Wilkinson of London Road Models which uses a very similar technique . I hope that helps John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caley Jim Posted October 4, 2018 Share Posted October 4, 2018 Hi there was an article sin MRJ 52 or 53 I can't find it as I've just moved that shows the painting and lining of 4mm LNWR coaches by Jol Wilkinson of London Road Models which uses a very similar technique . I hope that helps John. It's issue 52, p27 http://www.modelrailwayjournal.com/issue.php?s=52. Jim 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atso Posted October 17, 2018 Share Posted October 17, 2018 I've been working on a devlopment/concept model for an N Gauge Ivatt C1 Atlantic. Believe it or not, there is a good part of a Dapol Hall chassis under the body! 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 5944 Posted October 17, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 17, 2018 Believe it or not, there is a good part of a Dapol Hall chassis under the body! Well the Hall body is pretty awful, so a good choice! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richbrummitt Posted October 21, 2018 Share Posted October 21, 2018 The first part out of my MF70 since CNC conversion A cab side for my current project. Next struggle is getting smaller cutters to work well. I've broken two 0.5mm cutters now on the cab front, which I need a smaller radius for the windows. I'm at 60mm/min x/y fees rate and 30mm/sec plunge trying a .15 depth of cut. Maybe better cutters would help but there are limitations on a maximum 1/8" shank unless buying from the US so am pondering a spindle conversion for an ER11 set up. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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