Whats on your 2mm Work bench

[Atso]

 

Perhaps you might consider the etched alternative chassis (3-625) which I designed. Nigel''s brass chassis will have a bit more weight to it but does not cater for providing you cylinders and the like, which you would be needing in this case.

 

This depends on the body being to 1:148 scale.

 

Chris

 

 

 

Thanks Chris,

 

The body is to 1:148 scale but I've designed up a set of replacement cylinders which re-use the Farish slide bars.

[TomE]

Tom, great work on the Schools, looks and sounds superb. Any chance of a picture with the tender lid off so we can see how it all squeezes in.

 

Jerry

 

This is the internal layout of the Schools tender. The SACC16 is laying on it's side immediately behind the motor with the 3 tantalums attached to the rear face. I originally soldered 2 tantalums to the front side but that resulted in there not being enough space for the speaker.

 

The speaker is a Zimo sugarcube which I had to seat at a slight angle to avoid hitting the tops of the rear wheelset and also fit under the rear tender top. 

 

I did completely remove any surplus wires from the decoder, and cut the rest down to the absolute minimum length to avoid any surplus.

 

 

It's a tight fit but it is worth the effort. 

 

You could potentially thin down the motor cradle, or build your own, to give a bit more space along each side of the motor and fit slim tantalums in this area as an alternative. 

 

Tom.  

Edited November 2, 2018 by TomE

[Izzy]

Thanks for the sound project info. I'm looking for an 03 (diesel shunter) one at present and torn between those available on Zimo's from the different suppliers. If space is tight for stay-alive packs then perhaps making your own might take less room.

 

This is a 3x220uf pack I installed into the nose of a standard Farish 08 (aided by a bit of dental burr work on the body casting.

 

 

 

Similar packs with altered configuration to suit the space available have now gone into Farish 03 & 04's (into the cabs but below the window line). An 08 and 04 with etched association chassis have got 4-packs (sounds good!)i.e. 4x220uf as there is much more space. However the results are pretty much identical.

 

All locos using CT DCX 76's ( one had a CT DCX 75 so that got swapped out - I'm not that skilled!) the one thing I can't quite work out is that it isn't possible to read back the cv's on the latter locos with coreless motors, or a Farish Jinty also with a coreless, but the standard Farish ones with their normal motors read back just fine......Hmmm

 

Izzy

[dmeaden]

I’ve not tried a coreless motor with CT decoders - could it be the lack of resistance in this type of motor that causes the failure readback ( recognise) the CV’s?

I have only used Zimo decoders recently and these work fine but the decoder and running benefit from careful adjustment of the motor cv’s when using coreless to get the best control & smoothness.

[Izzy]

 

There is no problem with CT’s with general read/write cv’s inc coreless, but the general advice is that when stay-alives are added DC running must be turned off for it to work and cv read/writing is not possible, so the decoder should be set up before the SA is connected. Just fiddling around with the locos through my sprog/JMRI/Decoder pro as I installed the SA’s I discovered that I could seem to write/change cv’s, and with the standard motor Farish also read them so I did wonder if the coreless were making the difference in this respect.

 

Zimo are certainly better with no issues when adding SA’s, for I also found the p&i figures needed reducing - halving - from 80/40 down to 40/20, to prevent stuttering once the SA’s were added, ( the coreless were already at these figures so were fine). Given the firmware issues that seem to exist with CT’s I now feel that using Zimo’s are preferable except where space is an issue, which are the CT’s trump card, their incredibly small size.

 

Izzy

[Caley Jim]

CT's are the only ones I have room for and l have been no problems with them with Faulhaber coreless motors. None of my locos have room for SA's!

 

Jim

[nick_bastable]

Just managed to take delivery of a DCX65 anyone any experience of using one this is intended for  re-gauged  TSUGAWA chassis 

 

thanks 

 

Nick

 

[Atso]

My lining of the C1 is progressing slowly.

 

[TomE]

That’s going to be a stunner Steve!

 

Tom.

[Coal Tank]

Here are four LNWR wagons that I've received from shape ways these will form part of a freight Tain that I'm doing they are diagram 1&2

John

Edited November 7, 2018 by Coal Tank

[TomE]

This is a 3x220uf pack I installed into the nose of a standard Farish 08 (aided by a bit of dental burr work on the body casting.

 

 

I may have to have a go at doing the same with my 08. I think i'd be able to get the SACC16 in there cut down to just the circuitry...hmmm

 

I've just re-motored and added stay alive to a Dapol 9F and again the transformation has been well worth the effort. I've installed 1100uf of storage and there is space for more using thin tantalum capacitors, although performance indicates any more isn't really necessary. Now I just need to sort out the wheel set that appears slighty out of quarter and it will be a usable engine for the first time. 

 

I've also added 440uf to a Farish Std5 which wasn't a bad runner in the first place, but did struggle occasionally on the inlaid yard area. Now it glides through.

 

I am well and truly sold on adding stay alive where possible now. 

 

Tom.  

Edited November 7, 2018 by TomE

[Izzy]

I may have to have a go at doing the same with my 08. I think i'd be able to get the SACC16 in there cut down to just the circuitry...hmmm

 

Tom.  

 

I had to carve out the front of the 08 body casting to get the 3-pack in as per these shots. The two screws at the rear hold the body on just fine, which was good to find......

 

 

Not sure there will be the room to use a SACC16, it's very tight for space. Might I suggest that you consider getting the bits you need off ebay using the links Nick Mitchell provided in the coal tank thread:  http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/107235-2mm-coal-tank-test-build/page-6 post 143#

 

It means you can adjust the pack assembly to suit the space, and it is also considerably cheaper...another 30 220uf have just arrived ( I have used the initial 20) at under £12 so SA packs cost just a few pounds each inc the other bits, Zener diode/diode/resistor.

 

Can't really thank Nigel (Cliffe) enough for all the hard ground work he put in on these packs, the best capacitors to use etc and sharing the info so freely. As you so rightly say the difference is quite amazing.

 

Cheers,

 

Izzy

 

 

 

Izzy

[Coal Tank]

l have a lot of couplings to make

 

John

[Coal Tank]

I haven't done any modelling for ages so I thought that I would get back to these etches of midland coaches that I got from Jerry a couple of years ago

John

[TomE]

I had to carve out the front of the 08 body casting to get the 3-pack in as per these shots. The two screws at the rear hold the body on just fine, which was good to find.....

 

Not sure there will be the room to use a SACC16, it's very tight for space. Might I suggest that you consider getting the bits you need off ebay using the links Nick Mitchell provided in the coal tank thread:  http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/107235-2mm-coal-tank-test-build/page-6 post 143#

 

It means you can adjust the pack assembly to suit the space, and it is also considerably cheaper...another 30 220uf have just arrived ( I have used the initial 20) at under £12 so SA packs cost just a few pounds each inc the other bits, Zener diode/diode/resistor.

 

Can't really thank Nigel (Cliffe) enough for all the hard ground work he put in on these packs, the best capacitors to use etc and sharing the info so freely. As you so rightly say the difference is quite amazing.

 

Cheers,

 

Izzy

 

 

 

Izzy

Thanks for those photos & links Izzy, extremely useful!

 

Here’s a bit more footage of the Schools & 9F in action with their new motors & stay alive fitted. The transformation has been worth the effort considering how they ran, or didn’t, before.

 

 

The 9F needs a little more work to give it the correct tender, and probably a respray to sort out the extensive glue fogging all along the boiler. Someone in the Dapol factory was a bit eager with the Cyanoacrylate!

 

Tom.

Edited November 9, 2018 by TomE

[Caley Jim]

Very impressive Tom.  But why does the 9F appear to only give two beats to the revolution?

 

Just curious,

 

Jim

[CF MRC]

Valve timing must be out, Jim.

 

Tim

[TomE]

You know, I hadn't even noticed before you mentioned it Jim! I'll have to have a play with the 'chuff rate' CV.

 

Cheers, 

 

Tom.  

[Doncaster Green]

Having seen the marvellous work posted on here, I hesitate to contribute my meagre efforts, long on hard work but rather short on skills and experience.   However, here goes:

 

It's a Gresley NG steel panelled artic twin to Diag 250 (5 Comp Brake Third + 8 Comp Third) from a Masterclass kit with Chris Higgs' 3D printed rooves.   Basic build is complete and it awaits dismantling, a very good clean up and a trip to the paint shop (although that may take some time!).   The Brake Third is currently missing its guards' ducket, I managed to mess up both the etched examples on the fret.   Methinks I will be ordering some white metal ones from Etched Pixels.  

 

Bogies are Masterclass/2mm Association Gresley Standard 8'6" (I know the middle one should be a heavy but I haven't ordered that yet).   The bogie footboards caused me all sorts of problems trying to keep the mounting slots clear but I eventually found a way of fixing them that didn't need the slots.   Chris Higgs would probably not approve and it means they are actually a scale couple of inches too high, but, hey, it works for me!

 

Please disregard the apparent daylight between the rooves and the coach sides, they are only lightly in place and there is a slight bow in the rooves that proper fixing will take out.   Also only the brake has a semblance of an interior at the moment while I experiment with the best way of building it.   Door handles will be fitted after painting.

 

Photographs are cruel and show up all the blemishes - ventilator hoods not straight or centred, etc.   Ah well, lots to do!

 

Regards to all

 

John

 

[Coal Tank]

Hi John

They look good to me

John

[John57sharp]

Look good to me too. Well done John

[justin1985]

Literally on my workbench at the moment is an Anycubic Photon 3D printer. I'd seen a few mentions of these new generation SLA (stereolithography) / DLP (direct light processing) 3D printers recently and noticed the quality of the prints looked particularly impressive in terms of being free from stepping. I'd heard they were cheap - then I happened to look at the manufacturer's eBay page. A special offer at £325, plus £20 shipping from Germany, and I was sold.

 

 

The printer arrived so quickly I didn't have time to finish the designs for GER wagons that I'd been working on (still learning my way around Fusion360 and trying to figure ways of doing rainstrips and the like). I remembered that Julia had been doing some experiments with printing some vehicles and traction engine wheels, and she very kindly shared the STL files with me. So I've had the chance to print some actual 2mm models as well as more generic test prints. 

 

 

I'm seriously impressed!

 

I did each wheel four times at different angles as a bit of an experiment. Doesn't seem to have made any difference with the large rear wheels, aside from a very slight bit of stepping on the ones at moderate angles - virtually none on those which were close to vertical or horizontal. The small front wheels were a bit more sensitive - at first I thought the ones that were shallow or at low angles had overexposed so much they were solid, but the IPA bath salvaged it somewhat. The one closest to vertical is pretty much perfect though.

 

 

For what is pretty much the cheapest 3D printer on the market, to my eye, these prints are better than even the best from Shapeways. I'll try and finish off the designs for the wagons soon, and try printing them with minimal supports, and close to flat to the base plate.

 

Justin

 

[TomE]

Nice! When do you start taking commissions

 

Tom.

Edited November 13, 2018 by TomE

[2mmKiwi]

 

Literally on my workbench at the moment is an Anycubic Photon 3D printer. I'd seen a few mentions of these new generation SLA (stereolithography) / DLP (direct light processing) 3D printers recently and noticed the quality of the prints looked particularly impressive in terms of being free from stepping. I'd heard they were cheap - then I happened to look at the manufacturer's eBay page. A special offer at £325, plus £20 shipping from Germany, and I was sold.

 

IMG_20181110_142247.jpg

 

The printer arrived so quickly I didn't have time to finish the designs for GER wagons that I'd been working on (still learning my way around Fusion360 and trying to figure ways of doing rainstrips and the like). I remembered that Julia had been doing some experiments with printing some vehicles and traction engine wheels, and she very kindly shared the STL files with me. So I've had the chance to print some actual 2mm models as well as more generic test prints. 

 

IMG_20181113_205603.jpg

 

I'm seriously impressed!

 

I did each wheel four times at different angles as a bit of an experiment. Doesn't seem to have made any difference with the large rear wheels, aside from a very slight bit of stepping on the ones at moderate angles - virtually none on those which were close to vertical or horizontal. The small front wheels were a bit more sensitive - at first I thought the ones that were shallow or at low angles had overexposed so much they were solid, but the IPA bath salvaged it somewhat. The one closest to vertical is pretty much perfect though.

 

IMG_20181113_205226.jpg

 

For what is pretty much the cheapest 3D printer on the market, to my eye, these prints are better than even the best from Shapeways. I'll try and finish off the designs for the wagons soon, and try printing them with minimal supports, and close to flat to the base plate.

 

Justin

 

 

 

Hi Justin - this is pretty interesting and the first time I have see these small printers that can produce items of the quality we require in our scale - at home so as to say. Thanks for sharing and please keep us informed on your next print project

 

Steve

[Coal Tank]

Hi I have just cut a piece of ply which I intend to be part of a small Diorama which I am about to make .Ive never built a layout before so the idea is to try out making scenery etc it will have the ends of two platforms not the whole of them a signal box and a small cottage

Watch this space as thet say

John