Coal Tank Posted February 2, 2019 Share Posted February 2, 2019 I now have two running lines up and working and have started to put metal black onto the rails I think this makes it look a lot better john 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valentin Posted February 5, 2019 Share Posted February 5, 2019 (edited) On 08/05/2018 at 09:35, 2mmMark said: [...] Nigel Lawton offers turned shaft adapters. http://www.nigellawton009.com/PayPalMotors.html [...] Would be thinkable for these adapters not to be concentric? I have a couple and, looked at under a magnifying glass, they don't seem to be very accurate. Or maybe I should start questioning my eyesight? Edited February 5, 2019 by Valentin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nig H Posted February 5, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 5, 2019 39 minutes ago, Valentin said: Would be thinkable for these adapters not to be concentric? I have a couple and, looked at under a magnifying glass, they don't seem to be very accurate. Or maybe I should start questioning my eyesight? I had some and the fit seemed a bit sloppy, in fact too sloppy to be of use, What about the Association ones? Nig H 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atso Posted February 5, 2019 Share Posted February 5, 2019 (edited) Following a few weeks where I've not been able to face the work bench and finding myself without a car for most of today, I've finally sat down today and done some soldering. A GCR bogie fish van that was kindly donated to me by Jerry. This is a Rod Neep etch which I assume was shot down from a large scale. As such some of the parts didn't fit as intended but I think I've gotten the hardest part out of the way now. The bogies will need some bodging as they are too narrow for 2mm Association axles but I think that I can use an Association wagon bogie stretcher and soldered the outer parts of the bogie to this. I've still got to add several off the overlays, but I think it's look pretty good already (obviously in need of some clean up though!). Jerry, thanks again for this and I WILL get a package off to you tomorrow! Edited February 5, 2019 by Atso 10 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold TomE Posted February 5, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 5, 2019 Very neat work Steve! Tom. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold queensquare Posted February 5, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 5, 2019 4 minutes ago, Atso said: Following a few weeks where I've not been able to face the work bench and finding myself without a car for most of today, I've finally sat down today and done some soldering. A GCR bogie fish van that was kindly donated to me by Jerry. This is a Rod Neep etch which I assume was shot down from a large scale. As such some of the parts didn't fit as intended but I think I've gotten the hardest part out of the way now. The bogies will need some bodging as they are too narrow for 2mm Association axles but I think that I can use an Association wagon bogie stretcher and soldered the outer parts of the bogie to this. I've still got to add several off the overlays, but I think it's look pretty good already (obviously in need of some clean up though!). Jerry, thanks again for this and I WILL get a package off to you tomorrow! That's looking great Steve, a really distinctive prototype. I'm glad its getting built. Send the package whenever you get a chance, not in a desperate rush. Jerry 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valentin Posted February 5, 2019 Share Posted February 5, 2019 2 hours ago, Nig H said: I had some and the fit seemed a bit sloppy, in fact too sloppy to be of use, What about the Association ones? Nig H Thanks, Nigel. I used one of the Association ones and it was good; I just needed another adapter to modify a brass bearing from 1.5 mm bore to 1.0 mm bore and I didn't want to last adapter from the Association I had. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
justin1985 Posted February 5, 2019 Share Posted February 5, 2019 35 minutes ago, Atso said: A GCR bogie fish van that was kindly donated to me by Jerry. This is a Rod Neep etch which I assume was shot down from a large scale. As such some of the parts didn't fit as intended but I think I've gotten the hardest part out of the way now. The bogies will need some bodging as they are too narrow for 2mm Association axles but I think that I can use an Association wagon bogie stretcher and soldered the outer parts of the bogie to this. I've still got to add several off the overlays, but I think it's look pretty good already (obviously in need of some clean up though!). This looks excellent! I acquired one of these kits when bits and pieces from Steve Sykes's collection were being sold off. But comparing the etches with images of 4mm version that are online, I seem to be missing the etch of overlays for the doors. Also there don't seem to be any bogie etches with mine at all. I was thinking of attempting the final door overlay in plastic using the Silhouette cutter - might be a bit hairy, but hopefully possible! From what I can see in photos online, the bogies seem similar to the Fox design, but shorter than the 8' wheelbase version we have as a 2mm kit. Any suggestions on a suitable etch? Justin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atso Posted February 5, 2019 Share Posted February 5, 2019 (edited) Thanks Tom and Jerry. Jerry, it has been fun to build so far! 27 minutes ago, justin1985 said: This looks excellent! I acquired one of these kits when bits and pieces from Steve Sykes's collection were being sold off. But comparing the etches with images of 4mm version that are online, I seem to be missing the etch of overlays for the doors. Also there don't seem to be any bogie etches with mine at all. I was thinking of attempting the final door overlay in plastic using the Silhouette cutter - might be a bit hairy, but hopefully possible! From what I can see in photos online, the bogies seem similar to the Fox design, but shorter than the 8' wheelbase version we have as a 2mm kit. Any suggestions on a suitable etch? Justin Justin, If you've not got the bogie etch then you are missing the three floor spacers for the body and the 'Vs' for the brake gear as well I'm afraid. Regarding the bogies: According to my Roche drawing (not the most reliable modelling drawings, I admit), the bogies should be a 5'6 wheelbase. My plan is to use item 2-400 (plate frame stretcher) from shop 2 and solder the frames from the etch to these. This also allows me to make use of the half etched sunken rivets by turning the bogie frame around as there is no way I'm going to be able to punch them out since they are really close to the edge of the etching. I think that the door framing might be a little to fine for the Silhouette cutter, maybe steal a couple of sets from the BHE etches for the 10' wheelbase van or etch/laser cut some replacements? Edited February 5, 2019 by Atso Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Popular Post Nick Mitchell Posted February 14, 2019 RMweb Premium Popular Post Share Posted February 14, 2019 Manged to snatch a couple of hours at my workbench yesterday evening to make this live steam injector, as the first section of plumbing for my 9F. Because the spaghetti is so exposed, and is a something of a signature feature of these locos, I thought I should try to make as accurate a representation as I could. The injector body was turned freehand on the lathe from 0.8mm brass rod, and is 3.3mm long. Drilling the holes in it to locate the pipes was fun... The pipework is 0.4mm copper - a tad over-scale, but hopefully more robust for that. 5 21 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium CF MRC Posted February 14, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 14, 2019 (edited) How did you make the injector cones, Nick? Tim Edited February 14, 2019 by CF MRC 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Popular Post Nick Mitchell Posted February 16, 2019 RMweb Premium Popular Post Share Posted February 16, 2019 (edited) This one took a bit longer as it was considerably fiddlier... it is supposed to be a Davies & Metcalfe Class K exhaust steam injector. Again, the main body was started on the lathe, this time from 2mm dia. rod, formed with a series of stepped cuts. It was then a case of filing bits away, followed by soldering bits back on. The lump on the side started off as a length of .5mm square brass wire. Thank goodness it will be completely hidden on the model, so nobody will be able to see those wonky square flanges! The live steam injector from the previous picture will be mounted in front of this one. Edited February 16, 2019 by Nick Mitchell 7 18 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Popular Post Nick Mitchell Posted February 20, 2019 RMweb Premium Popular Post Share Posted February 20, 2019 (edited) Hope this isn't getting too boring, but I have knitted both forkfuls of spaghetti together (with not inconsiderable difficulty!) and added representations of the water valves. This pair of valves are based around a single piece of brass, which has been slit round the edges with a piercing saw. For anyone who doesn't already know but might be interested, the water comes in from the tender at the left of the picture (the pipe supplying the exhaust steam injector crosses to the far side of the loco). Spindles from the water valves will pass up through the cab floor, terminating in handles for the fireman to operate. The two pipes sticking up across the top edge of the picture bring in live steam from the manifold on top of the firebox - the valves controlling the steam supply are above the running plate. Of the three pipes that bend forwards to run behind the footplate valance, the large one brings exhaust steam (via a grease separator) and the two smaller ones carry the feed water to the clack valves near the front of the boiler. The two short pipes underneath the injectors are the overflow drains. There are a few more really small pipes that I haven't added (such as the water supply to the slacker pipe - which can only be used when the injector is running) but I think I will omit these... After all, less is more in 2mm scale! (Did I really just say that?!?) And just for a really cruel comparison, here is a photo from a similar angle of the real bits I'm trying to represent. I took this picture of Evening Star at York the summer before last, and it has taken me until now to pluck up the courage to crack on with the model... Edited February 20, 2019 by Nick Mitchell added photo of prototype 6 22 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
John57sharp Posted February 21, 2019 Share Posted February 21, 2019 There are not enough superlatives for this Nick. John 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coal Tank Posted February 21, 2019 Share Posted February 21, 2019 It's just stunning work Nick john 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Holliday Posted February 22, 2019 Share Posted February 22, 2019 Nowhere in the same league as the superb modelling that is displayed on this thread, but I thought I'd post this anyway! As a modeller in 4mm, with 7mm fingers and thumbs, and Gauge 1 eyesight, I decided to take up the challenge of 2mm modelling, although the last time I dabbled in it was sixty years ago with Lone-Star push-along stock. I am a member of the Epsom & Ewell MRC, and they have, as is fairly well known, started building a model of Lewes, on the LBSCR, set in 1886. As a Brighton enthusiast, I have become slightly involved in the project, and I wanted to be able to contribute something concrete, and get to understand the challenges that this scale presents. I didn't want to interrupt the production line of LBSC wagons, both etched and 3D printed, but finding something else that would fit the date was a problem, until I saw Jim Watt's contributions here, with some suitably antique Caledonian wagons. Eventually I tracked down his Buchanan Models website and ordered a few of his choicest, and appropriate, offerings, to give the scale a try. The first off the blocks is this dumb-buffered open, hard to justify in southern England, but not totally impossible. It doesn't look too bad, to my eyes at least, for a first effort, certainly when viewed from a distance, but I'll have to try harder in future, and I might get the paintbrush out again to tidy up a few things that the camera's cruel eye has highlighted. I found the construction of this all etched kit "interesting" thanks to my lack of skills, and my ten thumbs defeated some of Jim's cunning plans and excellent instructions, but it went together in a very satisfying way, using a RSU and I was amazed at the level of detail incorporated in the etch and the clever use of framing to the various overlays to get them to align, something I had not seen in the 4mm etches that have come my way. Next in line is a cattle wagon - Sussex was just crying out for pedigree Ayrshire and Highland cattle, I hope. (Apologies for the N gauge track, the only thing I had to pose the wag(g)on on.) 12 1 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nick Mitchell Posted March 17, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 17, 2019 I'm not getting much time at my workbench at the moment, but my 9F is progressing slowly, with more pipework being added. Some of what you can see in the photos is not fixed in place yet, as further bits need soldering to it. The details on the left hand side of the firebox include the valves controlling steam supply to the vacuum ejector. The body of these valves is made from the etched components in the kit (suitably rounded off with fine files), while some of the other etched bits were used as templates for the copper pipework. The regulator rod passes behind the steam pipes, and had to be fitted first. I replaced the long straight sections of what was a one-piece etched part with nickel silver rod, and kept the cranks from the etch. No, it doesn't move! On top of the firebox is the beginnings of the steam manifold, with the whistle which was turned from brass rod. I'm hoping the surface of the whitemetal boiler/firebox casting won't look so rough as it does in these photos once it has been primed. On the top of the firebox, I experimented by covering it with a slurry of milliput, and once dry rubbing it over with very fine wet & dry paper. 5 12 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
justin1985 Posted March 18, 2019 Share Posted March 18, 2019 On 05/02/2019 at 17:41, Atso said: Justin, If you've not got the bogie etch then you are missing the three floor spacers for the body and the 'Vs' for the brake gear as well I'm afraid. Regarding the bogies: According to my Roche drawing (not the most reliable modelling drawings, I admit), the bogies should be a 5'6 wheelbase. My plan is to use item 2-400 (plate frame stretcher) from shop 2 and solder the frames from the etch to these. This also allows me to make use of the half etched sunken rivets by turning the bogie frame around as there is no way I'm going to be able to punch them out since they are really close to the edge of the etching. I think that the door framing might be a little to fine for the Silhouette cutter, maybe steal a couple of sets from the BHE etches for the 10' wheelbase van or etch/laser cut some replacements? I was just randomly thinking about this again this morning - having seen some people on the AnyCubic Facebook group printing medallion type things flat to the build plate, it occurred to me it might be worth a shot printing the door layers as a 3D print. The three layers of etch presumably total between 0.75mm and 1mm in thickness, so that might well survive being printed as a whole and peeled off the build plate. Might use the images of the 4mm etch on the Brassmasters site as a template, and give it a shot! Does the Roche drawing include the bogies? I don't actually have a copy. Presumably a printed layer could sit over 2-400 to replace the parts I'm missing as well. Justin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nig H Posted March 19, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 19, 2019 On the Keith Gloster workbench, not mine, a S & D 7F. I produced the etched chassis and footplate, Alan Smith the machined smokebox/ boiler/ firebox. Nig H 10 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium CF MRC Posted March 19, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 19, 2019 That looks like it will pull well! Tim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nig H Posted March 19, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 19, 2019 2 hours ago, CF MRC said: That looks like it will pull well! Tim i think you're right -the boiler and smokebox are solid brass, as the pic hopefully shows. Nig H 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
2mm Andy Posted March 19, 2019 Share Posted March 19, 2019 Looks like part of Scaramanga's golden gun to me.... Andy 1 1 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Northroader Posted March 19, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 19, 2019 If you’re “stop and searched” and the cops find that in your pocket, you’ll get done for carrying an offensive weapon. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Popular Post Nick Mitchell Posted March 20, 2019 RMweb Premium Popular Post Share Posted March 20, 2019 A few more 9F bits have been making their way from my lathe and across my workbench... First are the steam valves for the injectors, which will sit alongside the firebox just in front of the cab on the fireman's side. These were turned from 0.8mm o/d brass tube, and the hexagon shape of the big nuts filed on the ends. These are then slipped over the copper pipes. Next, and more challenging to solder the pipes to, is the vacuum ejector. The loco I'm building is 92008 - the first to arrive on the Midland region. It had originally been intend to send it to the Western, and was fitted with ATC - which is what the round bit on top of the ejector and extra pipework was for. Where the little pipes for this equipment pass along the side of the boiler behind the cover, I have had to disguise the fact that the cover is a solid strip of metal. (The 9F kit provides two layers of etch for this, but I have only used one.) I have chamfered the end of the cover, and the pipes to splice them together, hopefully making it look more like the pipes go inside it... Finally, all this lot is to be epoxied to the boiler/filerbox casting before I accidentally squash it out of shape. I don't know how I lived before I discovered aluminium curl clips... Starting to look more like a 9F now. You may be able to make out above the front buffer beam the "double" lamp irons which were as result of its last minute diversion to the Midland region. 8 15 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Popular Post Nick Mitchell Posted March 30, 2019 RMweb Premium Popular Post Share Posted March 30, 2019 (edited) This thread seems to have gone fairly quiet, so I thought I'd inflict some more pictures of my 9F on it, which is still making glacial progress across my workbench. At last I have figured out a way to make the clack valves. (These are the one-way valves through which water is injected into the boiler.) As with all things 9F, they are quite prominent so need to look the part. The valve bodies were cast into the resin boilers that came as part of the original kit, but didn't survive the transition to the whitemetal upgrade. I have discovered, however, that a turned brass handrail knob can be made to look more like a clack valve body than it can a handrail knob! Hopefully the photo below explains exactly how. Don't worry about the gap at the bottom of the smoke deflector - it is only balanced loosely in place for effect. Speaking of smoke deflectors, here is the inside of one. The special short etched handrail knobs (so much finer than turned ones!) fold over on the inside of the plate, ensuring they all protrude exactly the same distance. Clever. You can see I've still got a bit of cleaning up to do before I can fix the plates in place permanently. The extreme magnification in the next shot makes the handrails look as though they're standing a long way off the surface of the deflector plates, but in real life they look OK. I took this picture mainly to check the chimney (a brass casting, and part of the kit) was sitting centrally and level. I think it is! You might be able to make out in the above photo a slight rebate in the hole up the middle of the boiler. I abused my digital calipers to make this, by locking them to slightly increasing measurements, and twisting the points round in the hole to gradually scrape the metal away. The reason for doing this (and I was surprised it worked) is so I can recess the smokebox door into the boiler casting. As it comes, the brass smokebox door casting has a lip round the edge, which as far as I can tell shouldn't be there. I carefully filed this away - see comparison photo below, original on the left - but that left the door quite thick. Rather than thinning it, I thought I'd see if it was possible to recess it slightly. The next photo shows the modified door balanced in place in the modified boiler casting. Once I've soldered on the dart, handrail and lamp iron, it will be epoxied in position. You can also see the right hand clack valve, and the sandbox fillers which have also been added recently. The next photo shows the sliding cab roof sections now in place, and also the ejector pipework and steam manifold permanently fitted, alongside the step on the firebox side. Getting the steam pipes to twist round each other convincingly while fitting the shape of the firebox and negotiating other obstacles like the reverser reach rod was not the easiest of jobs. Well worth the effort though. Looking down from this angle, you might also be able to make out how I made the body of the ejector steam valves, with the 0.2mm copper wires running through a sandwich of etched shapes. On the other side of the firebox, the steam pipes for the injectors come down and pass through a hole in the footplate. I had to make my own hole in the footplate here, and the steam pipes are soldered to the inside edge of it then cut off flush underneath. I hope I've managed to get the bottom half of these pipes, which are attached to the chassis, to line up and look as though they are joined to the top half. They seem to look OK from most angles. You can also see here the control rods for the valves passing through the front of the cab. This cruel close up reveals the top one is not quite lined up on the centre of the valve body. Will an attempt to adjust it make matters worse? Probably! More on those control rods - where they protrude into the cab, I have made little handles on the ends of them from cut-down etched handrail knobs. This is probably getting silly now, but you can see them through the fireman's cab side window. Of course, when the window is glazed and weathered, you probably won't be able to see anything through it! Silly or not, the kit includes several little etched bits to suggest some of the driver's controls - including the prominent "mangle" or "bacon slicer" style reverser - so it seemed only fair to give the poor fireman something to play with too. The rest of the backhead does look rather bare, so I'll have to do something about that in due course... There are still plenty more details to add - mainly a collection of handrails to both loco and tender - and the clock is ticking. York show is only 3 weeks away! At least the livery is unlined black... EDIT: Further updates about my 9F were reported on a separate thread: Edited May 26, 2020 by Nick Mitchell Added link to follow-up thread 6 17 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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