Atso Posted July 22, 2019 Share Posted July 22, 2019 Thanks Marshlane. I looked into the easi-liner pens at little while back but decided not to purchase as I like the of a bow/ruling/draftsman pen's ability to adjust the width of the line. I started out working with a cheap pen (£6!) sourced from an art shop by a friend. It wasn't a pen bad, but nor was it great. I still have it, but generally only use it to paint handrails on the occasions I fit them after the rest of the painting/lining is done. My current pens are a Kern (found new on eBay) and a Haff Bow Compass that I purchased directly from Haff. My Kern pen's blades are really slightly too long and it is very easy for them to flex (despite my best attempts to put not additional pressure on the pen!) which can make getting a consistent line difficult. The Haff on the other hand is a thing of beauty, its just a shame I don't have a pen grip for it. However, I get around this by closing up the compass and turning the removable blade attachment around by 180 degrees - slightly clunky but usable. I have some nerve damage in my left arm/wrist which causes occasional trembling (I'm left handed). Therefore a rest for my wrist is essential (a fact I usually remember after I start lining) and I use nothing more complicated than an old Farish or Dapol stock box or the high lip on my painting tray (when I clear it off to gain sufficient space!). 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Popular Post Izzy Posted July 28, 2019 RMweb Premium Popular Post Share Posted July 28, 2019 No longer on my workbench, but they were...have managed to make a signal box based on Hadham (Buntingford branch) and another searchlight signal for Priory Road, this time with a simple theatre box all using SMD leds. Eventually gave up trying to have stencilled letters/numbers and it just indicates left or right hand routes. The set of the turnout chooses which lights. Also ballasted the track and added gound signals as well as fitting the platforms. All slowly coming together now. Izzy 18 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted July 28, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 28, 2019 Very nicely done. Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richbrummitt Posted July 28, 2019 Share Posted July 28, 2019 7 hours ago, Izzy said: ...Also ballasted the track and added gound signals as well as fitting the platforms. All slowly coming together now. Rodding too! Looking tidy. Do you have a thread for this? I could have read it or missed it completely thus far. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
justin1985 Posted July 28, 2019 Share Posted July 28, 2019 Finally finished off more of the "big four" wagons from Association kits that have been sat on my workbench for ages. The interiors are just Tamiya "deck tan" with varied amounts of thinned down dirty mixes of acrylics. I think the GW open on the right looks best - this one has the strongest coat of deck tan and thinnest wash. Guess I need to think about loads for them now! 10 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Izzy Posted July 29, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 29, 2019 18 hours ago, Donw said: Very nicely done. Don 11 hours ago, richbrummitt said: Rodding too! Looking tidy. Do you have a thread for this? I could have read it or missed it completely thus far. Thanks both. Haven’t got a separate thread, just made the odd post. Have considered whether it would be of interest since it’s yet another of my almost totally ‘cardboard’ layouts at just 60”x10” with a folding sector plate fiddle board. Izzy 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richbrummitt Posted July 29, 2019 Share Posted July 29, 2019 15 hours ago, justin1985 said: Finally finished off more of the "big four" wagons from Association kits that have been sat on my workbench for ages. The interiors are just Tamiya "deck tan" with varied amounts of thinned down dirty mixes of acrylics. I think the GW open on the right looks best - this one has the strongest coat of deck tan and thinnest wash. Guess I need to think about loads for them now! Justin, For me it's the LMS one. Finished wood seems to grey with age once any exterior treatment has gone. Though the GW wagon looks pretty new on the inside so it depends what you're going for. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
John57sharp Posted July 30, 2019 Share Posted July 30, 2019 On 29/07/2019 at 08:00, Izzy said: Thanks both. Haven’t got a separate thread, just made the odd post. Have considered whether it would be of interest since it’s yet another of my almost totally ‘cardboard’ layouts at just 60”x10” with a folding sector plate fiddle board. Izzy Yes please, be interesting for us more recent arrivals! cheers 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold queensquare Posted July 30, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 30, 2019 On 29/07/2019 at 08:00, Izzy said: Thanks both. Haven’t got a separate thread, just made the odd post. Have considered whether it would be of interest since it’s yet another of my almost totally ‘cardboard’ layouts at just 60”x10” with a folding sector plate fiddle board. Izzy Well worth putting in its own thread I'd say, lovely stuff. Jerry 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Popular Post Nick Mitchell Posted August 1, 2019 RMweb Premium Popular Post Share Posted August 1, 2019 I'm thousands of miles away from my workbench at the moment, but sitting amid the clutter and waiting patiently for my return is my embryonic Diamond Jubilee Layout Challenge entry. Recently I made a tentative start laying track, so i thought now would be a good time to introduce my project to the world. The foundation of the layout is one of Tim Horn's laser-cut baseboard kits. I have a second kit, with a cunning plan to build it as two half-width boards to use as fiddle yards. They may end up as platforms for cassettes. I will be using Easitrac throughout, and I have been having fun over the last couple of weeks playing with some of the pegged turnout kits. This is the first time I've used these. The idea behind my entry is to suggest one part of a larger steam shed complex somewhere in the North West of England. I have taken design cues from several locations, to end up with something fictitious (to fit within the space allowed) but hopefully believable. After the competition, it will make a nice scenic backdrop for photographing all the locos desperate to get out of my gloat box and onto my workbench! (If only a Fowler 2-6-4T were among their number...) At the right hand end will be a retaining wall which contains the shed yard, and at the left, a road over-bridge will divide this part of the yard from the non-modelled area. One end of a larger shed is tucked away at the rear left, and the central feature will be a tank-over coaling stage - typical of L&Y and LNWR sheds, and known as a "Coal Hole". Across the front of the layout will be a running line providing access to the shed yard. I've tried to add some interest to the track plan by varying the track levels. The running line is slightly below the level of the yard, and falls away to the right to enter a tunnel. Also, the track in the centre rises at about 1-in-30 (which I believe is prototypical) to deliver wagons into the coal hole. The track plan was designed using Templot and stuck onto 3mm ply. This has been cut between the tracks as appropriate and stuck to risers of varying thicknesses to achieve smooth vertical transition curves where the track level changes. This has also allowed me to cut slots in the upper layers for inspection pits outside the shed. I have made a start on the shed itself using a ScaleScenes downloadable kit. I plan to use components from this and other ScaleScenes downloads to make a vaguely matching coal hole. I'll probably use papers form the same source for the retaining walls, bridge abutments and tunnel mouths to achieve some visual harmony. Below are a few photos showing the overall scheme. Actually, I'm a little further on with track laying, but didn't take any more pictures before I left. The first picture shows clearly the track plan, which features 5 turnouts. 8 tracks will cross onto the fiddle yards, including the shed roads. The incomplete shed and a few vehicles are scattered around for effect. Next, an end-on shot showing the rise and fall of the track levels. Through the crossover from the yard to the running line, the track level drops 3mm. The running line (which is level at the end of the baseboard nearest the camera) then drops a further 3 mm towards the far end. The raised track through the coal hole is 12mm above the siding next to it. I have made a crude attempt to draw in some of the major scenic features, to give an impression of what I have in mind for the scene... Finally, I couldn't resist showing off the buffers at the end of the raised coal siding. These are the LMS version available from the Association shop, and make up really nicely. I have separated the buffer plank from the supports with pads of thin double-sided PCB, in order to have an all-soldered construction and at the same time not introduce a short circuit. I still need to add some cosmetic outside half-chairs to the 3 sleepers where there is a double thickness rail. The mineral wagon is from Stephen Harris' kit. 21 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post 2mmKiwi Posted August 3, 2019 Popular Post Share Posted August 3, 2019 This Cornish cottage is nearing completion and is in situ for this photo. The chimneys need a bit more weathering, more flower gardens and a clothes line will be inserted in this scene eventually. This is my model of Harry Galls cottage which stood opposite St Erth Station entrance. With so many changes happening on the real St Erth these days it is great to be restoring the old order, albeit in model form. 17 17 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold queensquare Posted August 3, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 3, 2019 3 hours ago, 2mmKiwi said: This Cornish cottage is nearing completion and is in situ for this photo. The chimneys need a bit more weathering, more flower gardens and a clothes line will be inserted in this scene eventually. This is my model of Harry Galls cottage which stood opposite St Erth Station entrance. With so many changes happening on the real St Erth these days it is great to be restoring the old order, albeit in model form. That's exquisite, the weathering on the roof is particularly effective. Jerry 1 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted August 3, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 3, 2019 I am sure that's the real one so I look forward to seeing the model. Such stunning work 1 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium CF MRC Posted August 3, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 3, 2019 Looks damp enough for Cornwall! Tim 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold MarshLane Posted August 3, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 3, 2019 7 hours ago, 2mmKiwi said: This Cornish cottage is nearing completion and is in situ for this photo. The chimneys need a bit more weathering, more flower gardens and a clothes line will be inserted in this scene eventually. This is my model of Harry Galls cottage which stood opposite St Erth Station entrance. With so many changes happening on the real St Erth these days it is great to be restoring the old order, albeit in model form. Really wish we had a 'wow' button for things like this! Can only echo Jerry's comments - amazing work. Rich 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
2mmKiwi Posted August 3, 2019 Share Posted August 3, 2019 10 hours ago, queensquare said: That's exquisite, the weathering on the roof is particularly effective. Jerry Hi Jerry - thanks for the compliment. For a long time I've wanted to have a go at this lichen/moss that is common on slate roofs in the St Erth area. I used Tamiya Matt Yellow and Humbrol leather 62 combined with talcum powder to make a semi gunky mix that I then dabbed onto the roof. I think I can improve this technique more. - Steve 1 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold MarshLane Posted August 3, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 3, 2019 3 hours ago, 2mmKiwi said: Hi Jerry - thanks for the compliment. For a long time I've wanted to have a go at this lichen/moss that is common on slate roofs in the St Erth area. I used Tamiya Matt Yellow and Humbrol leather 62 combined with talcum powder to make a semi gunky mix that I then dabbed onto the roof. I think I can improve this technique more. - Steve You really need to do a step-by-step on how you've done that for us lesser mortals that want to copy, I mean replicate it Rich 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
2mmKiwi Posted August 6, 2019 Share Posted August 6, 2019 On 04/08/2019 at 10:12, MarshLane said: You really need to do a step-by-step on how you've done that for us lesser mortals that want to copy, I mean replicate it Rich Hi Rich - Do you mean a step by step for the roof construction and painting or just painting? Steve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold MarshLane Posted August 6, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 6, 2019 5 hours ago, 2mmKiwi said: Hi Rich - Do you mean a step by step for the roof construction and painting or just painting? Steve Hi Steve, I am tempted to say the former as I am sure it would useful to many of us, but I was meaning the latter!! Really is a great effect and very realistic. Rich Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
2mmKiwi Posted August 7, 2019 Share Posted August 7, 2019 12 hours ago, MarshLane said: Hi Steve, I am tempted to say the former as I am sure it would useful to many of us, but I was meaning the latter!! Really is a great effect and very realistic. Rich Hi Rich and all, I'm happy to share some notes. Question - would it be more appropriate to answer your query in the "Any Questions Answered" folder? I don't want to break protocols Steve 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
garethashenden Posted August 7, 2019 Share Posted August 7, 2019 2 hours ago, 2mmKiwi said: Hi Rich and all, I'm happy to share some notes. Question - would it be more appropriate to answer your query in the "Any Questions Answered" folder? I don't want to break protocols Steve A separate thread would probably make it easier to find at a later date. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caley Jim Posted August 7, 2019 Share Posted August 7, 2019 4 hours ago, garethashenden said: A separate thread would probably make it easier to find at a later date. And I'm sure Anthony would welcome an article for the magazine which would disseminate it to the wider association membership. Jim 1 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Izzy Posted August 9, 2019 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 9, 2019 (edited) A little bit of a heads-up if I may for anyone like me who uses Nigel Lawton's drive belt system in locos. My CL 15 uses this and has run without issue since being completed in 2013. However, the other day when I went to use it for track testing on Priory Road after ballasting and then weathering it struggled to move and mostly just sat there with the motor wirring away. Eventually I discovered the drive belt had failed, split on it's outer face. Here's a shot. Although they are supposed to be resistant to taking up a set, given the reduction used (3.6 -1) and the difference in size between the small and large pulleys it's probably not at all surprising, especially given the minimal running it has had of late while layout building has taken place. Anyway, as luck would have it as part of the fairly crude and basic chassis construction I arranged things so that it screwed together and that the layshaft could be 'dropped out' by sliding the rubber tube couplings around - all that actually hold the layshaft in place - and a new belt fitted. Some replacement belts came very quickly from Nigel Lawton, and I got enough to probably ensure they will see me out......once every 6 years doesn't seem too bad! But I would advise that if you use the system, which I have found works very well, it might be a good idea to have some way of taking things apart to replace the belts. Izzy Edited August 9, 2019 by Izzy spelling! 2 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold MarshLane Posted August 9, 2019 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 9, 2019 All very new to 2mm Finescale, so thought I'd throw this out there, as its on my 'Digital Workbench'. I have recently acquired a Class 24 model, which will be rewheeled with 2mm Association drop in wheels so that there is a reliable locomotive for testing my new 2mm FS trackwork, once the various pieces arrive from Shop 1. However, I quite enjoy CAD, and one of the models that I want to be able to run on my future layout is an A4. Having searched rmWeb and the web in general I found no reference to anyone who had done it before, although I severely doubt I'm the first! The guys over at MRC/Copenhagen Fields must have done it for their Silver Link model for one. So I decided to jump in at the deep end, rightly or wrongly. Having studied a few kit built threads and watched Nick's Jubilee construction video several times, I managed to acquire a copy of the Doncaster Works drawings from 1933. From this, I have taken all the measurements and resized down to 2mm, before transferring them to CAD. My plan is to use Association bearings, axles, gears and wheels (pony, driving and trailing). Yet to quite work out how the Cartazzi truck will work, but I suspect Dapol used a triangle frame approach with a pivot on the centre top point aligned with the middle of the chassis, which seems a sensible way of doing things. Obviously this is only one side and shows the right hand side main and front bogie frames from the smokebox end. Tabs to solder onto the PCB spacers are not yet shown. I'd be interested to hear people's views on whether its best to use the Association motors or get a spare from Dapol? Space I am guessing will dictate whether its in the tender or firebox. It will also have a Zimo DCC coder fitted in somehwere, along with a small stay-alive. Open to any comments/suggestions. If im making any glaring errors, please do tell me, open to constructive criticism! Rich 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigelcliffe Posted August 10, 2019 Share Posted August 10, 2019 16 hours ago, MarshLane said: All very new to 2mm Finescale, so thought I'd throw this out there, as its on my 'Digital Workbench'. .........one of the models that I want to be able to run on my future layout is an A4. .........Open to any comments/suggestions. If im making any glaring errors, please do tell me, open to constructive criticism! My suggestion - build something simpler first, such as an 0-6-0 tender with inside valve gear. Understand the practicalities and how things really work, develop skills and understanding in the use of tools needed to assemble a working mechanism, etc... Understand how weight distribution affects things. Its easy to draw stuff in CAD. Turning it into something that can actually be assembled and will actually work is another matter. - Nigel 4 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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