RMweb Premium CF MRC Posted February 22, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 22, 2020 Wouldn’t want to be the chap who had to clean out the inside of this churns, Rich! Tim 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richbrummitt Posted February 22, 2020 Share Posted February 22, 2020 5 hours ago, CF MRC said: Wouldn’t want to be the chap who had to clean out the inside of this churns, Rich! Tim Fortunately they're solid (or they're meant to be) Tim. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Atso Posted March 2, 2020 Popular Post Share Posted March 2, 2020 I've been playing around with creating 'teak' using oil paints and tinted varnish. Here is the result having been weathered down using some powders. Next is my 3D printed Howlden Lav Comp. I've only done this side so far and it'll need to be varnished before I can do the other side. 23 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
justin1985 Posted March 3, 2020 Share Posted March 3, 2020 16 hours ago, Atso said: I've been playing around with creating 'teak' using oil paints and tinted varnish. Here is the result having been weathered down using some powders. Next is my 3D printed Howlden Lav Comp. I've only done this side so far and it'll need to be varnished before I can do the other side. Very impressive Steve! That Howlden, especially, looks spot on! What base colour did you start with? I've currently got some NPCS sat in a rather lurid shade of orange, which MikeTrice recommended in his thread on simulating teak. The sole bar on your Howlden suggests you used something more akin to the traditional Phoenix "teak base" tan colour? J 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atso Posted March 3, 2020 Share Posted March 3, 2020 17 minutes ago, justin1985 said: Very impressive Steve! That Howlden, especially, looks spot on! What base colour did you start with? I've currently got some NPCS sat in a rather lurid shade of orange, which MikeTrice recommended in his thread on simulating teak. The sole bar on your Howlden suggests you used something more akin to the traditional Phoenix "teak base" tan colour? J Thanks Justin, The Howlden's base coat is Vallejo's 'Wood' colour, while the Minitrix was left in its plastic state. I've also tried Humbrol Natural Wood and tan colours which work as well. Mike's method differs from my own in that I'm using a mix of Burnt Umber, Burnt Sienna, Yellow Ochre and White oils in tiny quantities on the panels to build up the 'grain' effect. The final colour hue comes from the red tinted acrylic varnish - trying to replicate how the real effect was achieved. The lovely thing about oils is that they can be blended together and have a long working time. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
justin1985 Posted March 3, 2020 Share Posted March 3, 2020 4 minutes ago, Atso said: Mike's method differs from my own in that I'm using a mix of Burnt Umber, Burnt Sienna, Yellow Ochre and White oils in tiny quantities on the panels to build up the 'grain' effect. The final colour hue comes from the red tinted acrylic varnish - trying to replicate how the real effect was achieved. The lovely thing about oils is that they can be blended together and have a long working time. I think white might be the missing ingredient from my previous attempts! As per Mike's method, I started off trying to blend in the red parts on a Dapol Gresley (as Mike was doing on the equivalent Hornby models) and then I had been trying to effectively match the Dapol finish on other models. I'll still try to match that on the NGS Gresley full brake - but previous experiments on smaller pre-group NPCS (horse box, prize cattle vans etc.) ended up looking much too saturated and vivid when I used the same formula as the Gresley. The tone and saturation on the Howlden seems to have that slightly less vivid look that seems to suit pre-group stock a little better than the bright rich teak on preserved Gresley stock (e.g. NYMR). I'd love to see a step by step, if you get the chance when doing the other side, maybe? especially before and after the varnish. When you say you're mixing and building up the effect - do you mean you're building up layers of multiple different blends of the colours (and presumably allowing to dry between)? Or are you working with all of the colours still 'wet'? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atso Posted March 3, 2020 Share Posted March 3, 2020 (edited) The Howlden is too light at the moment and needs to be darkened down somewhat. However, it is about right for the hue of an unvarnished version. GNR/LNER teak seems to be a orange/red/brown colour which I assume is down to the varnish. Mike's method creates this using an orange base coat that shows through the oil layer. My own does this using a tinted varnish and is a bit more time consuming. Regarding a step by step. Here are the oils I use along with a Dapol Gresley that has been given a base coat of Tamiya 'Wooden Deck Tan'. The brush is a 2/0 Daler & Rowney sable while the oils are Windsor and Newton (which I find work best). Stage one is to take a little paint (in this case Burnt Umber) and put it on the model. Wipe the brush on the paper towel to remove any excess paint. Next brush out the paint, taking off any excess. Then add in small amounts of the other colours and blend in using the brush. Add further colour variations if necessary. Brush these out, forming patterns by changing the direction of the brush. Edited March 3, 2020 by Atso 3 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atso Posted March 3, 2020 Share Posted March 3, 2020 (edited) Continue working a panel at a time. I use an even mix of Burnt Umber, Burnt Sienna and Yellow Ochre to go around the outside of the panels and cornices. The side needs to be left for at least 24 hours before sealing it with acrylic varnish and repeating for the other side. As for the difference the varnish makes, the coach behind the Howlden in my original post has reached that stage and is awaiting lining out. Edited March 3, 2020 by Atso 5 4 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
justin1985 Posted March 3, 2020 Share Posted March 3, 2020 That's a masterpiece Steve! Absolutely beautiful work! I'll try the two NPCS that I've stripped down with different base coats (one orange, one deck tan) and see how I get on. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted March 4, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 4, 2020 Lovely bit of work rather reminds me of seeing my Grandfather using scumbling to create an Oak effect on a pair of French Windows. Needs a touch of the Artist to get right I suspect. Don 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nick Mitchell Posted March 4, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 4, 2020 On my workbench at the moment, 46210's body has had the last few details added and finally made the transition from the North Somerset Light Railway livery to Works Grey (well, etching primer). She'll be coming with me to Missenden Abbey this weekend, where I'm hoping to learn more about the dark arts of applying a proper livery. I really need to progress beyond unlined black! Meanwhile, the other end of my workbench is starting to take on the air of Barry Scrapyard, with lines of incomplete locomotives awaiting the loving attention of somebody with plenty of time and optimism... The combined age of the projects on display is approaching 30 years. My goal is to complete them all before their combined age exceeds mine! 14 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coal Tank Posted March 5, 2020 Share Posted March 5, 2020 8 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coal Tank Posted March 5, 2020 Share Posted March 5, 2020 Couple of Midland coaches Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium CF MRC Posted March 5, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 5, 2020 On 04/03/2020 at 23:07, Nick Mitchell said: On my workbench at the moment, 46210's body has had the last few details added and finally made the transition from the North Somerset Light Railway livery to Works Grey (well, etching primer). She'll be coming with me to Missenden Abbey this weekend, where I'm hoping to learn more about the dark arts of applying a proper livery. I really need to progress beyond unlined black! That’s great to have a proper 2mm modeller at Missenden this weekend! Tim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
justin1985 Posted March 7, 2020 Share Posted March 7, 2020 I might not be having much luck with locos at the moment, but I have been having fun finishing off some wagons! The GER 10t brake van is built from a David Eveleigh etch; the GER open wagon is one of my 3D prints; GER sand wagon is a resin casting from a scratch built master that I did a while back, and the GER butter wagons are more 3D prints. The sand wagon livery is wrong, according to the Basilica Fields blog, but I like it! I did also do decals for the correct version, so I'll try and finish a second wagon in that version. While I had been talking about commissioning some GER wagon decals, in the end I decided to bite the (very expensive) bullet and buy a "Ghost" white toner for my HP laser printer. The decider was the fact I also want to try doing plenty of private owner wagon liveries, for different size wagons etc, so the ability to do one off prints is really appealing! I think the white decals turned out really well! The decal film Ghost supply is really thin, and it works really well with Microsol. Here's a test print I did on black paper. I think I'll space the elements out a bit more in subsequent versions though - tricky scalpel work here! I'm happy to supply the GER decals to other 2mm members now I've got the system sorted. I've also got LOTS of the GER open wagon prints from experiments with the printer settings. Happy to supply the not quite perfect ones to anyone who wants them - otherwise they're going in the bin. J 11 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 65179 Posted March 7, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 7, 2020 Those wagons look excellent Justin. How long did the GER opens last? Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gareth Collier Posted March 7, 2020 Share Posted March 7, 2020 I'll certainly be after some decals, your butter ones were excellent and I really must do a sand wagon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
richbrummitt Posted March 7, 2020 Share Posted March 7, 2020 3 hours ago, justin1985 said: I've also got LOTS of the GER open wagon prints from experiments with the printer settings. Happy to supply the not quite perfect ones to anyone who wants them Do we want not quite perfect ones? That's a serious question. If so would they come with transfers? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
justin1985 Posted March 8, 2020 Share Posted March 8, 2020 30 minutes ago, richbrummitt said: Do we want not quite perfect ones? That's a serious question. If so would they come with transfers? Sorry should have been clearer - I meant happy to give the not quite perfect ones away for free. The only issue with them is visible layer banding on the ends and the floor inside - the sides are pretty well as per the photos above. Basically I'd been fiddling with print settings after starting to use a different resin, but I hadn't noticed that anti-aliasing had defaulted back to 4x rather than 8x - so I did a lot of prints at that setting without realising what was causing the banding on the ends. As with a Shapeways print, you can file the banding and/or coat generously with primer. Print with 8x Anti-aliasing on the left, and one of the test prints with slightly more visible banding on the right. Both with a light blast of Halfords primer. The trade off with the anti-aliasing is that it softens the definition of details, so in some respects the test prints are a bit sharper. Transfers I'd have to charge for. I'd be happy to do fresh prints of the wagons using the perfected settings, but I'd probably have to charge for them to cover more time and resin. @richbrummitt I've still not got around to trying your GWR bogie mink again since upgrading the printer. Will try to do that this week and will let you know how it turns out. 3 hours ago, 65179 said: How long did the GER opens last? According to Tatlow this design was built from 1907 and still being built in 1923/4. He says numbers "fell off dramatically by nationalisation", but I don't know when the last went. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coal Tank Posted March 8, 2020 Share Posted March 8, 2020 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coal Tank Posted March 8, 2020 Share Posted March 8, 2020 Some progress on the Midland signal box Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold queensquare Posted March 8, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 8, 2020 Id like some transfers please Justin, enough to do a handful of wagons. The GE is the really useful bit, being a peasant I'm not bothered about correct numbers etc - it is 2mm after all! Im pretty sure you gave me one of the opens when I last saw you - I know I have a van but I will happily take another imperfect open or two if they are spare, they are perfect for putting a tarp over a load which can be arranged to hide any iffy bits! Your GE wagons look superb. Jerry 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 65179 Posted March 8, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 8, 2020 Justin, I'll happily take a not quite perfect open off you if they've not all been snapped up. They're certainly a bit different compared with run of the mill 5 and 6 planks. Many thanks, Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atso Posted March 8, 2020 Share Posted March 8, 2020 Excellent work Justin! I'm really interested to see how you've gotten on with printing white decals, they look excellent. Interesting to see the sand wagon. I've done one too, made up from a much butchered farish item. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atso Posted March 8, 2020 Share Posted March 8, 2020 I've done a little more work on the Howlden coach, with a good portion of the underframe gubbings in place (gas tanks still to be fabricated). I've also stripped the body back and repainted it (twice!) as I wasn't happy with the effect the first two times. The photos have highlighted that I've got a spring to have to sort out on one of the bogies! I've now decided that mixing burnt sienna with some liquin to make a glaze is much more effective, sealing the original effect with some clear acrylic before applying. Below is a very cruel close up of a test on a Dapol Gresley showing the kind of effect I'm ultimately after. 11 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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