Whats on your 2mm Work bench

[Atso]

Other than step boards, couplings and passengers, the Dia 248D full third is complete.

 

 

 

Painting has commenced on the Buffet Car as well.

 

 

 

[Izzy]

22 hours ago, Nick Mitchell said:

They were concentric, but some of them had a slight taper.

 

The concentricity problem I had was to do with the plastic tubes that hold and insulate the axles in the spigots.

When I put the wheels back onto their axles, the pairs of wheels were no longer concentric with each other, and I needed to make new plastic inserts.

 

Nick.

I encountered this when I first started machining Farish wheels, some 04 ones IIRC, the design without the brass chassis bush so shorter bush length. The plastic bush is quite soft and can’t really cope with machining forces, so now I drift them out and mount the wheels on suitable fixtures, re-inserting them afterwards. This is particularly of benefit with the 7mm coach wheels where only about 50% of them run with any level of trueness to start with given they are smaller/shorter (the bushes).

 

Izzy

[Chris Higgs]

17 hours ago, keitharmes said:

No, the Dapol wheels just need thinning down closer to the bearing boss, leaving a little of the original thickness at the centre to space the wheel away from the frame. Depending on how sharp your tools are, you can end up with a bit of cleaning up where the spokes have been machined. Something like this, just starting on the wheels for the 43xx.

Keith

 

OK. I was worried about the spokes catching on the tool.

 

Any tips (from anyone) on how to replace the crankpins with Association ones, or indeed anything that is small enough to be used with etched replacement coupling rods.

 

CHris

[Nick Mitchell]

I made some screw-in crank pins for Farish wheels out of 14BA studding. A length at one end was turned down to 0.5mm diameter, leaving a section with threads the same length as the thickness of the wheel. My original article (with pictures) is in the August 2014 2mm Magazine.

 

An alternative would be to drill out the threads in the wheel and insert a piece of appropriately sized tube that an Association crank pin would fit into. 

Edited March 21, 2020 by Nick Mitchell
added magazine reference

[keitharmes]

1 hour ago, Nick Mitchell said:

I made some screw-in crank pins for Farish wheels out of 14BA studding. A length at one end was turned down to 0.5mm diameter, leaving a section with threads the same length as the thickness of the wheel. My original article (with pictures) is in the August 2014 2mm Magazine.

 

An alternative would be to drill out the threads in the wheel and insert a piece of appropriately sized tube that an Association crank pin would fit into. 

I do the same as Nick, except that I use 1mm brass studding. This fits the existing 1mm tapped holes, although some of them need a tap run through because they don't tap the whole way through. Easier for some to use 14BA, like Nick. Incidentally, I found the 1mm brass studding at www.prime-miniatures.co.uk.

Keith

[justin1985]

I've been working on some private owner wagons using decals printed using the Ghost system at the moment. The fact that the white replaces black means you can't print black and white at the same time, making shaded text liveries pretty tricky (I am working on one approach at the moment). So my first try has been a livery with all white text: "FOSDICK" of Ipswich.

 

Here are two 1887 wagons, one weathered, one not yet. I built both of the wagons years ago and I can't remember which chassis I used - they ended up at quite different ride heights, which I hadn't noticed before. Here posed in the sun with the GER open.

 

 

J

[Kylestrome]

9 minutes ago, justin1985 said:

The fact that the white replaces black means you can't print black and white at the same time

 

It should be possible to get a close approximation to black by specifying a colour consisting of 100% C + 100% M + 100% Y + 0% K ?

 

David

Edited March 22, 2020 by Kylestrome

[justin1985]

36 minutes ago, Kylestrome said:

 

It should be possible to get a close approximation to black by specifying a colour consisting of 100% C + 100% M + 100% Y + 0% K ?

 

David

 

That was one of my thoughts, but, alas, I think that method is scotched by the printer drivers. Even though I'm working with a CMYK document in Affinity Designer and the colour laser has CMYK toners, HP's drivers appear to assume an RGB input.

 

As far as I can tell, the document gets converted to RGB when you press print, then back into CMYK by the printer using one of the colour profiles defined in the driver (there is no CMYK option). So a very dark colour defined through CMYK (without the K) would get rendered into an RGB equivalent, then back to CMYK (presumably including the K).

 

I've yet to actually try this (changing the toners over is a faff), but that certainly seems to be the way the drivers work. It might turn out that I've been over thinking it - I'll definitely test next time I have the white toner in.

 

J

[justin1985]

58 minutes ago, justin1985 said:

Here are two 1887 wagons, one weathered, one not yet. I built both of the wagons years ago and I can't remember which chassis I used - they ended up at quite different ride heights, which I hadn't noticed before.

 

 

It's just occurred to me, looking at the photo, that the un-weathered FOSDICK wagon doesn't have any diagonal strapping, so it isn't from the 1889 RCH moulding. 

 

Is it actually an MR D.299 open from the Association twin pack?

 

Dohh!

 

J

Edited March 22, 2020 by justin1985

[Caley Jim]

If it's the 1887 moulding you mean,it came as a twin pack and you can build one with outside diagonal strapping and one with it inside.

 

Jim

[CF MRC]

2 hours ago, justin1985 said:

I've been working on some private owner wagons using decals printed using the Ghost system at the moment. The fact that the white replaces black means you can't print black and white at the same time, making shaded text liveries pretty tricky (I am working on one approach at the moment). So my first try has been a livery with all white text: "FOSDICK" of Ipswich.

 

Here are two 1887 wagons, one weathered, one not yet. I built both of the wagons years ago and I can't remember which chassis I used - they ended up at quite different ride heights, which I hadn't noticed before. Here posed in the sun with the GER open.

 

 

I haven’t tried it on a wagon but a 0.3mm black permanent marker pen might give a reasonable shading.

Tim

 

[garethashenden]

Justin, in larger scales POW Sides make shaded lettering by putting the white on one transfer and the black on another. It’s a bit of a faff to align, and the double thickness isn’t ideal, but it may be worth trying. 

[justin1985]

45 minutes ago, garethashenden said:

Justin, in larger scales POW Sides make shaded lettering by putting the white on one transfer and the black on another. It’s a bit of a faff to align, and the double thickness isn’t ideal, but it may be worth trying. 

 

Seems to be working out reasonably well!

 

 

J

[garethashenden]

49 minutes ago, justin1985 said:

 

Seems to be working out reasonably well!

 

 

J

Excellent! I don’t know why I didn’t think of applying black first, it looks like a much better idea. I think I’ll need to get one of those toners (and the printer to go with it).

[justin1985]

13 minutes ago, garethashenden said:

Excellent! I don’t know why I didn’t think of applying black first, it looks like a much better idea. I think I’ll need to get one of those toners (and the printer to go with it).

 

Actually black first made it harder to line the text up properly - once the white was on, the O ended up a bit too far left and overlaps the ironwork, and the Y is a bit low down compared to the other letters. I'll try the white first on the other side tomorrow.

[Atso]

1 hour ago, justin1985 said:

 

Seems to be working out reasonably well!

 

 

J

 

Great work Justin, well worth the investment in the toner (I've seen how much it costs!).

[Atso]

The next carriage for the Cambridge Buffet Express has been designed. This is the Dia. 257 BTKs which topped and tailed the set.

 

 

 

 

The remaining coach is an ex-GNR 61'6 Composite. I can't print this in one piece on the Photon, due to its length. I'm wondering if I can print and then graft the sides onto a Dapol Gresley and backdate the underframe details accordingly...

[Yorkshire Square]

My old J94 was desperately in need of some new wheels. Fortunately some of the first Mk5 wheels were the 8.5mm ones with "Austerity" profiled spokes. The chassis needs new brakes and a repaint and the body would benefit from some TLC too. The way things are going, I'm likely to have plenty of time to do just that.

 

 

Edited March 25, 2020 by Yorkshire Square

[justin1985]

I finished off the PO wagon with the two layered decals for the shaded text, and I'm pretty pleased with the result! This is on an Association 1923 RCH mineral.

 

 

This is the side where I tried the black shadow layer first, and got the position of the O a little too far to the left by the time the white was added.

 

And this side was done with white first, and the decal with the shadow added on top:

 

 

Either way doesn't seem to make any difference in terms of clarity or hiding the waterslide film (which I trimmed down quite close to each letter).

 

One thing though - I started a new can of Testors Dullcote, but it doesn't seem as matte as the previous one - more satin. I think weathering as per it's neighbours will help let it down a bit though.

 

Justin

[scottystitch]

On 22/03/2020 at 22:46, Atso said:

The next carriage for the Cambridge Buffet Express has been designed. This is the Dia. 257 BTKs which topped and tailed the set.

 

 

 

 

The remaining coach is an ex-GNR 61'6 Composite. I can't print this in one piece on the Photon, due to its length. I'm wondering if I can print and then graft the sides onto a Dapol Gresley and backdate the underframe details accordingly...

 

I'm always in awe of your CAD skills, Steve. Great work.

 

Best

 

Scott.

[garethashenden]

19 hours ago, justin1985 said:

I finished off the PO wagon with the two layered decals for the shaded text, and I'm pretty pleased with the result! This is on an Association 1923 RCH mineral.

 

 

This is the side where I tried the black shadow layer first, and got the position of the O a little too far to the left by the time the white was added.

 

And this side was done with white first, and the decal with the shadow added on top:

 

 

Either way doesn't seem to make any difference in terms of clarity or hiding the waterslide film (which I trimmed down quite close to each letter).

 

One thing though - I started a new can of Testors Dullcote, but it doesn't seem as matte as the previous one - more satin. I think weathering as per it's neighbours will help let it down a bit though.

 

Justin

Do you plan on offering PO wagon transfers for sale?

[justin1985]

4 hours ago, garethashenden said:

Do you plan on offering PO wagon transfers for sale?

 

Hi Gareth,

 

I'd be prepared to do extra prints of designs that I want to use myself, but especially for shaded text, I don't think I've got enough time to take on commissions for other PO wagon owners.

 

The wagon liveries I'm working on are:

 

Fosdick - Ipswich - unshaded (done)

MOY - earlier era branded for Peterborough, later branded for Colchester, ubiquitous throughout East Anglia - shaded (done)

Mellonie & Goulder - Ipswich - shaded

Allen & Boggis - Sudbury - shaded

Ridleys - Bury St Edmunds - shaded

J.H. Death - Colchester - shaded

Coote & Warren - Peterborough - shaded

Beaumont - Ipswich - shaded 

 

I can't imagine many others would be interested in these!

 

Justin

[65179]

Hi Justin,

 

Your wagons are looking really good. I'd be interested in some Moy (Colchester) and Coote & Warren transfers should you decide to make them available. Both a good basis for some tatty post-war minerals!

 

I've already got my eye on modelling the london-planked Moy mineral shown on p.98 of The 4mm Coal Wagon by John Hayes.

 

Simon

 

 

[Lacathedrale]

Really fantastic work @Yorkshire Square - that slow speed running is wonderful and the wheels look fantastic.

[Pyewipe Jct]

On 17/03/2020 at 21:15, Chris Higgs said:

Not 2mm, but has used my modelling skills.

 

The wet winter has not been kind to the sill of my wife's VW Golf. First thoughts were to fibreglass it, but I was not sure how to form a smooth profile. So I hopped down the local model store and picked up some 10 thou brass sheet which I formed and angle in in a wood vise, and then curved the rest using my rolling mill. Fits nice and snug. And I discovered you can indeed cut 10 thou brass with scissors and get a pretty nice cut!

 

But just in case you are wondering why I am posting this I am looking for some ideas of how to fix the brass to the sill, which has a coat of what seems to be some sort of plasticised paint. Impact adhesive?

 

Chris

Only just catching up on things RMweb, so a bit late to the party (and I apologise if I'm completely missing a joke here), but the sills of a car are meant to be load bearing, so a glued-on bit of thin brass (or fibreglass) simply isn't going to do the job, I'm afraid.

What you need as a minimum is a similarly profiled piece of steel seam-welded over the hole - myself, I'd cut the rot out & joggle the edges so the repair piece fits flush to make the repair as neat as possible.

Incidentally, the textured coating is stone-chip - that needs to be stripped off in the area of the repair (it catches fire when you're welding, don't ask how I know...) and a new coat painting on afterwards before the top-coat.