Whats on your 2mm Work bench

[-missy-]

2 hours ago, Donw said:

Nice work Julia. Do you have a specific use for it? 

 

Don

 

Thank you Don.

 

Nothing specific. Just a personal goal of mine.

 

Julia.

[PaulCheffus]

6 minutes ago, -missy- said:

 

Thank you Don.

 

Nothing specific. Just a personal goal of mine.

 

Julia.

Hi

 

That’s a very nice piece of engineering.

 

I keep looking at these but I’m not sure my lathe would be big enough to machine the castings. What size lathe did you use for yours?

 

Cheers

 

Paul

[-missy-]

3 minutes ago, PaulCheffus said:

Hi

 

That’s a very nice piece of engineering.

 

I keep looking at these but I’m not sure my lathe would be big enough to machine the castings. What size lathe did you use for yours?

 

Cheers

 

Paul

 

Thank you Paul.

 

All the machining was done on my Proxxon MF70 milling machine and my Unimat 4 lathe. Some bits were pushing the capacity of the machines but its all possible.

 

Julia :)

[Laurie2mil]

Not so much on my workbench as on the floor - my Covidtime has resulted in the extension of the tracks leading out from Yeovil Town station towards Pen Mill and the Junction.  The latter is a double track on a sweeping curve starting at 5' radius, increasing to 6' through the cross-over points and then 8'.  The challenge was in the super-elevation (another learning curve): the railway companies provided their lengthmen with tables to maintain the specified cant for different radii and speeds, and with a line speed of 40mph max to the Junction (although it would be less in both directions this close to what is effectively a terminus for this line), the cant transitions from zero at the platform ends to 0.5mm through the 8' radius.  I didn't know how it would turn out until it was all stuck down, but I have to say I'm pleased with the result, and although you might not notice it at first, the super-elevation certainly adds an extra degree of realism.

 

 

Now to wire it all up.

 

Laurie

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Donw]

That looks absolutly superb Laurie.   If you have ever been on a train which has been stopped on such a curve you can really feel the cant. To a former motorcyclist seeing a train leaning in to a curve looks very natural and on't we tend to do the same when riving a car. I really look forward to seeing this with the scenery done .

 

Don

[Valentin]

Not on my workbench, but new "housing" for my workbench (work in progress):

 

[jollysmart]

Laurie ,you really are powering on with YT making the most of lockdown and filling the room it is really good to see the progress. At this rate it won't be long before you have a continuous run FY to FY, I look forward to seeing it in action if we ever manage to get out of the present situation.

[Laurie2mil]

My thanks to DonW and Jolly Smart for your kind comments and encouragement.  I have spent so long focussed on the station area (and not least the tractor!) that, other than templotting the track plan, I've only really started to think seriously about the "country" end with the railway triangle in the Yeo Valley in the last few months.  Seeing the large radius curves with track down on the embryonic embankment for the first time has been quite exciting, and has opened my eyes to the scenic possibilities of this section (and the very varied operation).

 

Just need another lifetime to do it justice, that's all!

 

Laurie A

[MarshLane]

On 25/04/2020 at 00:59, Laurie2mil said:

Not so much on my workbench as on the floor - my Covidtime has resulted in the extension of the tracks leading out from Yeovil Town station towards Pen Mill and the Junction.  The latter is a double track on a sweeping curve starting at 5' radius, increasing to 6' through the cross-over points and then 8'.  The challenge was in the super-elevation (another learning curve): the railway companies provided their lengthmen with tables to maintain the specified cant for different radii and speeds, and with a line speed of 40mph max to the Junction (although it would be less in both directions this close to what is effectively a terminus for this line), the cant transitions from zero at the platform ends to 0.5mm through the 8' radius.  I didn't know how it would turn out until it was all stuck down, but I have to say I'm pleased with the result, and although you might not notice it at first, the super-elevation certainly adds an extra degree of realism.

 

Now to wire it all up.

 

Laurie

 

Looks great Laurie,

I look forward to the track power and signalling going in .. then of course we just need a big rebuilt Bulleid West Country to plod round that lovely curve (or a couple of those (not be mentioned) Class 33 diesels

 

Eagerly waiting the next meeting, although I think we'll be lucky to resume before the end of the year - so plenty of time to get the grass fields in too....

 

Rich

[MrSimon]

Hi all,

 

This seems to have taken me forever to build, but I’ve made my J94 chassis run using the motor (instead of my finger) for the first time ever:

 

The motor isn’t currently attached to the rest of the chassis, I was holding it in place.  Which way is best to attach it? I could use the longer shaft on the motor but that would mean the wires being at the gear box end, or I could hide the wires in the smoke box, which would mean I had to cut ~5mm off the motor shaft.  I’d been planning to use stiff wire to anchor the motor in place, but the movement in the motor with me just holding suggests maybe something more sturdy is needed.

 

Today’s test also reminded me that I need to take the wheels off the geared axle and glue them into the muff.  And I think I need to have the motor closer to the worm, In my mind it will lessen the effect of the motor moving and give smoother running.

 

Thanks 

Simon

[D869]

47 minutes ago, MrSimon said:

The motor isn’t currently attached to the rest of the chassis, I was holding it in place.  Which way is best to attach it? I could use the longer shaft on the motor but that would mean the wires being at the gear box end, or I could hide the wires in the smoke box, which would mean I had to cut ~5mm off the motor shaft.  I’d been planning to use stiff wire to anchor the motor in place, but the movement in the motor with me just holding suggests maybe something more sturdy is needed.

 

The association shop does 3d printed motor mounts. I haven't tried them myself. Others use those double sided sticky pads or just a big blob of glue. Some use stiff feed wires to the motor terminals. I use Blu Tack which sounds like a bit of a bodge but actually works very well, at least on coreless motors which don't get warm.

[Chris Higgs]

3 hours ago, D869 said:

 

The association shop does 3d printed motor mounts. I haven't tried them myself. Others use those double sided sticky pads or just a big blob of glue. Some use stiff feed wires to the motor terminals. I use Blu Tack which sounds like a bit of a bodge but actually works very well, at least on coreless motors which don't get warm.

 

For the J94 no motor mount to the chassis is really appropriate as there should be daylight showing under the boiler. Blu tack would look particularly bizarre! So I would think the stiff feed wires which are then  hidden in the smokebox would be the best visually. The motor could be mounted to the body rather than the chassis but that will make setup and maintenance quite tricky.

 

Chris

Edited May 3, 2020 by Chris Higgs

[Chris Higgs]

4 minutes ago, Chris Higgs said:

 

For the J94 no motor mount to the chassis is really appropriate as there should be daylight showing under the boiler. Blu tack would look particularly bizarre! So I would think the stiff feed wires which are then  hidden in the smokebox would be the best visually. The motor could be mounted to the body rather than the chassis but that will make setup and maintenance quite tricky.

 

Chris

 

Perhaps Nick Mitchell's posting on the Hunslet 16" thread might give some inspiration on mounting the motor. Although you'll probably have to change the type of motor.

 

Chris

[Atso]

A return to the bench for this locomotive.

 

 

A originally built here, it struggled to haul five coaches - despite being full of lead. Some redesigning of the rear frame spacer which holds the 'Cartazzi' wheelset and the tender to remove the pickups and modification to the relevant wheelsets to make them into split axle pickups as well as a new design of drawbar to provide stability seems to have made a difference.

 

 

Much better and now capable of lifting the longest train that Hadley Wood will be able to accomodate. Now I just need to touch up the paintwork (from all the handling over the last year or two), add the final details and weather it!

[richard i]

Looks fantastic a great effort on your part.

richard 

[Yorkshire Square]

In between printing axleboxes and springs for the Association shop, which seem to be horrendously modern (LNER and LMS etc..) , I've been working on some artwork for some more relevant time periods. This is my first go at something so complicated, so I'm pretty pleased with how they've come out. These are Lancashire & Yorkshire B2 oil boxes on a 3'6" five leaf spring.

 

 

[Yorkshire Square]

Station canopy MK3. This features thinner columns and better prints of the canopy valances. I’ve also omitted the central columns as these seemed to be overkill for such a small structure.  

[Caley Jim]

The Late John Boyle was a well know Caledonian modeller, modelling the early period in 7mm scale, and he produced a range of etched kits for coaches and locomotives in both 7mm and 4mm scales.  the artwork for these was all hand drawn- no CAD in the 1980's!  He was kind enough to have some of these produced in 2mm scale for me including a range of CR 45ft non-corridor coaches.  I still have a number of these and, as John sadly passed away at the beginning of April, having contracted Covid-19, I decided to build another one in his memory, this time a 7 compartment 1st.

 

The Fox pattern bogies for these were designed to be flexible, the two main parts comprising a side and end and a half etched cross piece, the two diagonally opposite corners where these meet being clipped together by some tabs.   In 2MM they are rather tricky to assemble and i had difficulty with them previously, however this time I have made them rigid by soldering the clipped corners.  Because the were designed for larger scales they require 12mm axles when using Association bearings.  Brake gear is supplied, but it is too delicate to be practical.

 

So far I have assembled one bogie, but as i find I have only these two pairs of 7mm wheels, i will have to use them to set up both bogies and put together an order to get some more.

 

 

Only after i took the photo did I realise that one of the spring hangers was distorted.  this has since been rectified!

Jim

[Yorkshire Square]

I finally got round to fixing the Shapeways printed van to a chassis along with a suitable weight. The chassis has my own H&BR axleboxes and 9 leaf 3'6" springs. The chassis itself is one of the older 2-330's with the brake gear rejigged using some Colin Waite etches. Having gone to all that trouble I note that although there are only two of them, the brakes are the wrong way round... 

 

Using the same artwork, I have printed some more bodies. Unlike the Shapeways item, I have printed the bodies and roofs separately. I can print four at a time and two are trimmed from their skirts. More etches of the new 2-330 are on their way from shop 2, so I will crack on with these during the week.

 

Keeping them apart is a 1887 RCH open.

[Ian Morgan]

I do so hate spray painting, all the faff of setting up the spray booth, compressor, airbrush, thinners, airbrush cleaner, paper towels and coffee stirrers, and the stress of the possibility of making a big mistake, clogging up the airbrush or a major spillage. Then, when done, stripping down and cleaning the airbrush. But, for a good finish on models you have spent a lot of time on, it is a necessary evil.

 

So some wagons and coaches in progress for Freshwater:

 

 

The carriages have appeared here before. The Stroudley 4 set is made up from Etched Pixels brass etches on David Eveleigh GWR 4 wheel chassis etches, with home-brew etched overlays to Brightonise them. 3D printed buffer beams, and now battery boxes too, were printed by Shapeways. The ex-NLR coach is a 3D print from Etched Pixels on another David Eveleigh chassis, this time, a correct NLR one. The bodies are not fixed to the chassis yet, and the NLR body has slipped forward, I see.

 

 

This LBSCR 8T van is another Etched Pixels brass body on a 2mm Scale Association etched chassis. I have no idea of the purpose for the large wooden baulks on the lower bodysides each side of the doors. This one will, hopefully end up in a very faded, run-down condition bearing the remnants of Southern Railway paint and lettering. I have a second one that will be early BR grey. These vans were used on the Isle of Wight for carrying fish, and tourists luggage. Pity about the cat hair.

 

 

After the war, the main freight on the island was coal, and I need plenty more wagons for this duty. This one is a resin body from Gramodels. It is an LSWR 8 plank and had a sheeting bar, but I removed it and just left the half-moon brackets on the ends, as many ended up. It seems to have some woodworm though.

 

 

Another Etch Pixels brass body on a 2mm Scale Association chassis. This time an LSWR Road Truck. I am loading it with some agricultural equipment I found on Shapeways.

 

 

So, nothing actually completed yet, but slowly progressing. I expect these items will look very different with transfers and weathering applied.

 

 

 

 

Edited May 10, 2020 by Ian Morgan

[mike morley]

5 minutes ago, Ian Morgan said:

I do so hate spray painting, all the faff of setting up the spray booth, compressor, airbrush, thinners, airbrush cleaner, paper towels and coffee stirrers, and the stress of the possibility of making a big mistake, clogging up the airbrush or a major spillage. Then, when done, stripping down and cleaning the airbrush.

 

You have no idea how comforting I find it to read those words and realise I am not alone.

[nick_bastable]

38 minutes ago, Ian Morgan said:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This LBSCR 8T van is another Etched Pixels brass body on a 2mm Scale Association etched chassis. I have no idea of the purpose for the large wooden baulks on the lower bodysides each side of the doors. This one will, hopefully end up in a very faded, run-down condition bearing the remnants of Southern Railway paint and lettering. I have a second one that will be early BR grey. These vans were used on the Isle of Wight for carrying fish, and tourists luggage. Pity about the cat hair.

 

 

 

 

slam plates for the doors when open ?

 

Nick B

 

just checked Southern Wagons Vol2  these appear on many of the  vans 

 

Edited May 10, 2020 by nick_bastable
added info

[richbrummitt]

2 hours ago, Yorkshire Square said:

I finally got round to fixing the Shapeways printed van to a chassis along with a suitable weight. The chassis has my own H&BR axleboxes and 9 leaf 3'6" springs. The chassis itself is one of the older 2-330's with the brake gear rejigged using some Colin Waite etches. Having gone to all that trouble I note that although there are only two of them, the brakes are the wrong way round... 

 

Using the same artwork, I have printed some more bodies. Unlike the Shapeways item, I have printed the bodies and roofs separately. I can print four at a time and two are trimmed from their skirts. More etches of the new 2-330 are on their way from shop 2, so I will crack on with these during the week.

 

Keeping them apart is a 1887 RCH open.

 

Is H&BR an appropriate livery for 1887 opens? I started some a long time ago and if it is then that would settle the livery choice since I'm from the B of H&B. 

[Nigelcliffe]

54 minutes ago, mike morley said:

 

( on spray painting hassle)  You have no idea how comforting I find it to read those words and realise I am not alone.

 

The biggest reduction in hassle I've had with an airbrush was swapping to Vallejo Model Air paints.    Water based, comes pre-mixed for airbrush use in bottle with eye-dropper end.  Shake bottle, a couple of drops into small cup on top of airbrush, and spray.   Clean between colours with water - about 3 airbrush cups sprayed into a trap/bottle.  Cleanup at end with water.    

Now its only about 15 mins to clean at the end of use, and no longer hours of mess, mixing cups, solvents, stirring stick, hassle transfering to airbrush (dribbling some outside of brush, some on bench, etc..), wrong paint consistency (so clean everything, try again), cleaning taking ages, smell.

 

Nigel

 

    

[Yorkshire Square]

15 minutes ago, richbrummitt said:

 

Is H&BR an appropriate livery for 1887 opens? I started some a long time ago and if it is then that would settle the livery choice since I'm from the B of H&B. 

Not really, I’m afraid.

 

I plan to have some of these in PO liveries on the layout. The model in the picture was just testing some lettering ideas.

 

The H&B had a couple of basic opens, one three plank and one five, a bit longer than the RCH example.