Whats on your 2mm Work bench

[CDGfife]

Another vote here for Vallejo Model Air.  Their Bronze Green is a good match I find for Maunsell loco Green and it sprays really well.  I'm also using Com Art opaque colours from Iwata for general colours (Ultramarine, umber, white etc.) - same deal with eye dropper bottle, airbrush ready, no thinning and easy clean up.

 

I did actually manage to leave some acrylic paint in the airbrush for a few days a few years ago!!  Fortunately I was able to get the airbrush apart with a good soak overnight in airbrush reamer and the rest was cleared up with foaming airbrush spray.  Still using that needle etc!  I was quite relieved and surprised at not ruining the airbrush, but I no longer fret about paint getting stuck unless I'm using enamels, which to be honest these days is quite rarely.

 

Chris

[Caley Jim]

1 hour ago, nick_bastable said:

slam plates for the doors when open ?

Certainly.  To stop the door ironmongery, locking handles etc., damaging the van sides when they are opened.  Just like the door stops you have in the house to stop the door handle damaging the wall.

 

Jim

[richbrummitt]

59 minutes ago, Yorkshire Square said:

Not really, I’m afraid.

 

I plan to have some of these in PO liveries on the layout. The model in the picture was just testing some lettering ideas.

 

The H&B had a couple of basic opens, one three plank and one five, a bit longer than the RCH example.

 

Ah, I didn't think I'd seen one but often other people have discovered something you hadn't. 

[Ian Morgan]

Thanks for the suggestions for acrylic paints. I have a mixture of acrylics and enamels, to add to my complications. The SR green and brown are enamels while the unfitted grey and weathered black are acrylic. Some find spraying acrylics difficult because they dry so quickly, but they are certainly easier to prepare and clean. In fact, I found a tip that, with a dual action airbrush, you can just blow air to dry the paint you have sprayed, and stop runs.

 

I still find it surprising just how thin you need to make the paint in order to spray successfully.

 

[Ian Morgan]

So, a whole evening spent lettering half of one side of a wagon when I had intended to do all the new wagons! The tare weight numbers (applied separately) were a nightmare.

 

Somehow, I have three sheets of Fox transfers with S R and tare weights, but no vehicle numbers. Their other sheet with wagon numbers is now in the post. I could not find another source for 2mm scale S R wagon transfers.

 

 

[2mm Andy]

20 minutes ago, Ian Morgan said:

 

I could not find another source for 2mm scale S R wagon transfers.

 

 

I haven't used them myself, but I did come across this ebay listing recently;

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Modelmaster-2M631-2mm-N-Southern-1923-48-Wagon-Lettering-Numbering-WHITE/233466432179?hash=item365baf0ab3:g:BB0AAOSwWZVeH5HI

 

Andy

 

Edited May 14, 2020 by 2mm Andy

[Ian Morgan]

1 hour ago, 2mm Andy said:

 

I haven't used them myself, but I did come across this ebay listing recently;

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Modelmaster-2M631-2mm-N-Southern-1923-48-Wagon-Lettering-Numbering-WHITE/233466432179?hash=item365baf0ab3:g:BB0AAOSwWZVeH5HI

 

Andy

 

 

Thanks Andy. I did look at the ModelMasters website, but did not find this sheet there.

 

[justin1985]

On 14/05/2020 at 20:06, Ian Morgan said:

 

Thanks Andy. I did look at the ModelMasters website, but did not find this sheet there.

 

 

Strange! They only have LMS and GWR now, but they definitely did have them for all of the big four a few months ago. These were new introductions after the N Gauge Society arrangement ended. They're much more useful than the Fox ones because they have ready made numbers, as well as a good selection of wording for special wagon types etc ("LARGE", "Fruit", etc.)

 

https://modelmaster.uk/691-2mm-scale-sr-gwr-lms-lner-wagons\

 

It might be worth getting in touch to see if they've sold out and are planning to re-stock?

 

J

[2mmMark]

Rummaging through my box of miscellaneous electronic components, I found a little digital LED voltmeter, 0 to 99.9v range plus a strip of PCB. A little while later I had a useful track tester for 9.42mm and smaller gauges.  The attached photos should be reasonably explanatory. I think I got the meter from eBay. It's polarity sensitive which is actually a benefit as it shows up any crossed feed wires and if the controller is wired up to the "right hand rail positive" convention.  The insulating gaps on the PCB were simply cut with a scriber.
I did isolate the fixing screws of the meter but it's not strictly necessary, just good practice.  It was tempting to cut the strip a bit shorter but I realised that having it a bit longer allows it to reach down into restricted access spots. The contacts are a couple of bent-over strips of nickel-silver.

 

 

 

 

[Ian Morgan]

On my virtual workbench, I have just completed another building for Freshwater - the Coal Depot. An unusual building, built using Flemish Garden Wall bond brickwork, like the station building, it had 6 openings on the rear wall next to the siding, with wooden shutters. I have no idea what the internal arrangements were, but I presume coal was shovelled from the wagons into these openings. I guess there was vehicular access from the other side.

 

Another puzzle is the fact that when the line closed, the building was only half the length of when it was built. I am beginning to suspect it could have been partly demolished by the Luftwaffe. I have found out that two bombs were dropped on Freshwater during the course of the war, one unfortunately causing two fatalities. The full bomb reports have all been digitised by York University, but can only be accessed by academics or librarians, so I have not been able to determine the exact locations of the blasts.

 

So, for my timescale, the building is in disrepair, with the patched up east end wall where the building was shortened, bricked up coal openings, and a roof with sagging beams, missing broken and dislodged slates and relatively modern steel (or plywood) doors.

 

Anyway, I am now awaiting Shapeways to print and deliver my model so I can see how it turned out. Watch this space.

 

[John57sharp]

Inspired by Nick Mitchell’s “no lathe” portions of the Jubilee build, I have today been making stubbaxles using the Proxon mini drill, this time using the lathe work post holder thingie in the small vice. Works a treat. I have a Taig lathe which is mostly used for 16mm work, it’s mostly too big for 2mm.

 

anyway it might encourage somebody.

 

cheers

 

john

[JohnBS]

Hi to all incarcerated souls,

I’ve nothing much on my 2mm workbench at the moment as my Totnes layout is in Wells and I am not. So, to compensate, I have been shopping. Just arrived is a Hattons/Heljan O-gauge A3 - "Papyrus". I don’t know a great deal about apple green locos but I’ve always been fond of the Gresley Pacifics and Papyrus was my "go to" choice.
To my eyes, it looks very impressiveI. I am told that the bogie wheels should be lined and have black centres but this can be remedied.

Below are a couple of photos. 

Keep safe and sane. 
John

[Nigelcliffe]

8 hours ago, 2mmMark said:

Rummaging through my box of miscellaneous electronic components, I found a little digital LED voltmeter, 0 to 99.9v range plus a strip of PCB. A little while later I had a useful track tester for 9.42mm and smaller gauges.  The attached photos should be reasonably explanatory. I think I got the meter from eBay. It's polarity sensitive which is actually a benefit as it shows up any crossed feed wires and if the controller is wired up to the "right hand rail positive" convention.  The insulating gaps on the PCB were simply cut with a scriber.
I did isolate the fixing screws of the meter but it's not strictly necessary, just good practice.  It was tempting to cut the strip a bit shorter but I realised that having it a bit longer allows it to reach down into restricted access spots. The contacts are a couple of bent-over strips of nickel-silver.

 

 

Adding a simple bridge rectifier (four fast-recovery diodes, probably under 10p each) between meter and probes, and whilst one looses the DC directionality, one gains a meter which works on DC or DCC.   Another option for a simple cheap tester. 

 

 

[Ian Morgan]

After a few evenings work, I have finally applied all the Fox transfers to my five 4-wheeler carriages for Freshwater. Applying the individual digits for the coach numbers was a real pain. Why did they have to have them on both ends of such short vehicles? As the actual coach numbers are well documented in an Oakwood Press book, I had to use the correct ones, even though it means I will need to buy another sheet of transfers to complete the other side, the digits 3 and 6 being very popular.

 

A test spray with Testor's Dullcote caused these transfers to shrivell up, so I used some Pledge polish (which is supposed to be the same as the old Johnsons Klear acrylic varnish) but it seems to have left the coaches looking a bit patchy. Hopefully the weathering will disguise this.

 

 

The Stroudley LBSCR 4 set are etched brass, and the ex-NLR coach is 3D printed, all are from Etched Pixels.

 

Actually, the ex-NLR coach 6336  was withdrawn by the Southern Railway when it was still in the varnished teak livery of the Isle of Wight Railway, and did not wear Southern green until it was rescued from being part of a bungalow by the preserved Isle of Wight Steam Railway.

Edited May 21, 2020 by Ian Morgan

[Geordie Exile]

Hi folks. First post in this thread, as I haven't dared to add the "FS" suffix to my work yet.

 

I'm slowly creating a copy of a north east colliery, that started out as a generic "based on" pit, and has ended up as a project in brick-counting. I've been persuaded to try Code 40 trackwork with it (all 120mm that I have far) and I suspect I'm going to end up going down the FS route. So far, I only have buildings, so the final decision has yet to be made (yeah, right!).

 

Anyway, I've been posting in the Industrial Railways bit (Fenwick Pit), but here's progress so far...

 

Edited May 21, 2020 by Geordie Exile

[MrSimon]

I got the motor fitted to my J94, I used the stiff wires to anchor the motor in place.  
 

I’ve got it to run quite well going chimney first, but it’s not great cab first.  I haven’t glued the wheel into the muff on the geared axel yet, so I don’t know how much improvement that will make; but is there anything that would normally affect running in one direction?  
 

Many thanks 

Simon

[mike morley]

Running better in one direction than the other is usually down to end-float in the motor.

[richbrummitt]

It does look like you might have a slightly tight spot about when the rods are TDC on the viewed side.

[mike morley]

Wouldnt a tight spot affect running in both directions?

With end float, the motor's armature is able to move very slightly back and forth inside the motor casing, and will always be slightly happier at one end than the other, which is why locos usually run slightly better in one direction than the other.

[Caley Jim]

Lubricate it, sit it up against a stop and let it run for ten or fifteen minutes.  That usually loosens up any tight spots in the mechanism.

 

Jim

[D869]

As Jim says, a spell of running in is always worthwhile before expending further effort.

 

If that doesnt solve it then take your time and take a close look at where it happens as the mechanism moves. I looked at your video and couldnt really be sure but you can test some more.

 

If it is always at the same crank angle then it's almost certainly something related to the wheels, cranks etc. If it is not matched to the wheel position then it is more likely elswhere in the drive train (e.g. idler catching on something).

 

Binding with one side at TDC suggests the rods on the opposite side are binding (the cranks on the other side will be at 3 o'clock or 9 o'clock putting the coupling rods in line with the axles). Maybe too long or too short between one pair of wheels, or a bent crankpin perhaps.

 

If you suspect a rod length issue then experiment with swapping sides (with the oil pots pointing downwards) and fitting the rods to just one pair of wheels (turn them back to front to do this). This may help you to isolate the issue although if it is only in one direction then it could be quite elusive.

 

Binding with the cranks always at or near 45 degrees suggests a quartering issue.

 

Good luck!

[MrSimon]

Thanks all!

 

It’s definitely got a slight tight spot and it would catch slightly sometimes when I ran it with my finger - I figured I’d sort this when I permanently fixed the wheels on.  I’ve noticed that one of the centre driving wheels isn’t running quite straight, it seems to point slightly outwards.  
 

Would some sort of washer fix the end float or would fixing the rest of the running make it less noticeable?

 

Jim, do I need to do that in each direction or just the jerky direction?

 

Thanks 

Simon

Edited May 23, 2020 by MrSimon
Forgot a bit

[D869]

10 minutes ago, MrSimon said:

Thanks all!

 

It’s definitely got a slight tight spot and it would catch slightly sometimes when I ran it with my finger - I figured I’d sort this when I permanently fixed the wheels on. 
 

Would some sort of washer fix the end float or would fixing the rest of the running make it less noticeable?

 

Jim, do I need to do that in each direction or just the jerky direction?

 

Thanks 

Simon

 

A washer restricting the end float will also become a bearing taking the end thrust, at least in one direction... so only do this if you can arrange something that will do a better job than the ones in the motor.

 

Run in both directions by all means but do keep checking the motor for heat, especially when it is working against a known tight spot.

 

regards, Andy

 

[Caley Jim]

32 minutes ago, MrSimon said:

Jim, do I need to do that in each direction or just the jerky direction?

I would do it in the direction which has the tight spot and see how that works.

 

One of my early chassis wouldn't do a full revolution when I applied power.  I set it upside down in a vice (with card vice grips in place) and touched the motor contacts with a pair of leads from a power source, first one way round until it stalled and then the other.  Each time it would go a wee bit further until after a few minutes of this it would do a full revolution. left it running a wee while and it was fine after that.  Every loco needs a bit of 'running in' at first.

 

Jim

[CF MRC]

Not sure whether I’m allowed to put this up, but it will be small gauge and uses fine scale standards. 

As I cannot get access to CF to work on the York Road tube station, a background project I have been quietly working on for a couple of years has come to the foreground. This is a new chassis underway for a Lynton & Barnstable 2-6-2 in 4mm scale, 8mm gauge.  There is a thread on the project in the Narrow Gauge Modelling part of the forum. It will eventually have fully working (but not reversible) Joy valve gear. 
 

Tim