RMweb Premium DavidLong Posted June 17, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 17, 2020 21 hours ago, Ian Morgan said: Another industrious weekend sees some more wagons take to the rails. I never get bored with wagons, Ian! By the way, the 'Pipe' is a 'Tube' 'cos it's bigger. A lovely kit as well and such a shame that the Chivers N gauge kits are no longer available. Up there with Parkside mouldings in terms of quality. David 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Ian Morgan Posted June 17, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 17, 2020 6 hours ago, DavidLong said: By the way, the 'Pipe' is a 'Tube' 'cos it's bigger. Thanks for the correction. I just checked I had got the right transfer on it - phew. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Popular Post Ian Morgan Posted June 17, 2020 RMweb Premium Popular Post Share Posted June 17, 2020 OK, here are the last batch of wagons for Freshwater, for now. I have plenty more at various stages of incompleteness, but I need to progress some other projects first. First off, from right to left, is a standard RCH mineral with end tipping door. Not sure any of these reached the Isle of Wight, but I have a handful more awaiting completion. Plastic body on 2mm Scale Association chassis. Next is an LSWR wagon. The body is a resin casting from Gramodels. It had a tarpauline support bar, but I trimmed that off and just left the pivot ironwork on the ends. Again, not sure any reached the Isle of Wight like this. 2mm Scale Association chassis again. An next is an LSWR 8 plank wagon. Plenty of these did get to the Isle of Wight, so I am OK with this one (and have more in waiting). Plastic body on 2mm Scale Association chassis. There is some unswept bits of coal in the corners, so not completely empty. And finally, an ex-LBSCR Road Truck, used for vehicles and equipment. A few of these ended up on the Isle of Wight, and one is preserved on the Steam Railway there. This is an Etched Pixels brass body on a 2mm Scale Association chassis. I found a nice piece of agricultural equipment on Shapeways for a load, lashed with Ezy-Line and some chopped up coffee stirrer. How will they manage to unload it at Freshwater? That is a future project that I have the bits for. 20 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RichardW1 Posted June 18, 2020 Share Posted June 18, 2020 My old 2mm Association tufnol track jig is pretty worn out. So I wondered how well a 3D printed one would stand up to the proximity of a hot soldering iron and resin cored solder. Pretty well as it turns out...... the fusion 360 model is parametric so can be adjusted simply for sleeper dimensions and spacing, track gauge and code of rail. I might even have a go a printing one for curved track. Now there’s a thing soldered set track in 2mm fine scale! 16 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Ian Morgan Posted June 20, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 20, 2020 And so, back to the Coal Depot for Freshwater. The computer model and 3D print from Shapeways were shown in earlier posts. After several days, using enamel paints, acrylic paints, individually picked out bricks and tiles, dry brushing and some washes, I am reasonably happy with the results. It needs to be bedded in to the layout properly, and extra details and clutter added, but it is progress, nevertheless. 17 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Izzy Posted June 21, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 21, 2020 Now that is what I’d call a distressed building! Looks great and especially that slate roof. Izzy 5 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yorkshire Square Posted June 28, 2020 Share Posted June 28, 2020 I spent a pleasant few hours putting together three of the revised 2-330 9ft wheelbase chassis. These have amended single side brake gear - you'll notice that the lever guide is inbound of the wheels. All soldering is done and cleaned up and wheels are in. The chassis are for my H&BR covered wagons, these three, in the centre, await buffers and axle boxes before going off to the paint shop. 12 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yorkshire Square Posted June 30, 2020 Share Posted June 30, 2020 In photographic grey 12 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold queensquare Posted June 30, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 30, 2020 16 minutes ago, Yorkshire Square said: In photographic grey They look great Tony - are you going to make these available to southerners? I have Steve Sykes H&B open down here in the memorial train but would be nice to add a van to keep it company. Jerry 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yorkshire Square Posted July 1, 2020 Share Posted July 1, 2020 17 hours ago, queensquare said: They look great Tony - are you going to make these available to southerners? I have Steve Sykes H&B open down here in the memorial train but would be nice to add a van to keep it company. Jerry Hi Jerry I've sent you a PM. If anybody else is interested in H&BR, I can supply bits and bobs. PM me for details. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post RichardW1 Posted July 4, 2020 Popular Post Share Posted July 4, 2020 Some stations had great huge edifices to serve staff and customers alike. Some others were a bit more basic. At Great Shefford the accommodation was very basic. A small timber hut was originally all that was provided. Tickets were dispensed, and there was a seat for passengers taking refuge from the rain. This was later extended with a tool shed to the rear. A Pagoda style waiting shelter was erected in GWR days. The model is made up from Evergreen siding, strips, and home brewed corrugated aluminium foil for the roof. The base will be buried in the platform. Just needs a few posters to 19 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Popular Post Izzy Posted July 5, 2020 RMweb Premium Popular Post Share Posted July 5, 2020 (edited) Something I made last week as part of a long term project. A 2mm version of the level crossing mech John Watson produced for the P4 layout Coldfair Green and which Nigel Cliffe described in the late Bob Barlow’s Finescale Railway Modelling Review no2. It’s made mainly out of 1.5mm acrylic sheet - apart from the bits to make it go. Runs off the DCC bus via a decoder. Sorry about the shaky video. Proper metal gates are now under construction…... Izzy Edited July 5, 2020 by Izzy 14 2 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Kylestrome Posted July 5, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 5, 2020 1 hour ago, Izzy said: Something I made last week as part of a long term project. A 2mm version of the level crossing mech john Watson produced for the P4 layout Coldfair Green ....... That’s a very clever design. I like the way it starts off slowly, gathers speed and then decelerates again. Very effective. David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
-missy- Posted July 5, 2020 Share Posted July 5, 2020 1 hour ago, Izzy said: Something I made last week as part of a long term project. A 2mm version of the level crossing mech john Watson produced for the P4 layout Coldfair Green and which Nigel Cliffe described in the late Bob Barlow’s Finescale Railway Modelling Review no2. It’s made mainly out of 1.5mm acrylic sheet - apart from the bits to make it go. Runs off the DCC bus via a decoder. Sorry about the shaky video. Proper metal gates are now under construction…... Izzy That is a very nice use of a Geneva wheel! M. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Izzy Posted July 5, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 5, 2020 1 hour ago, -missy- said: That is a very nice use of a Geneva wheel! M. Yes, John is a very clever chap. I believe he used the design on his previous P4 Mid-Suffolk light railway layouts, Laxfield etc. I had intended to run it off DC as per his but ran into diode forward voltage drop issues which using a decoder via DCC has helped overcome. Izzy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jan W Posted July 6, 2020 Share Posted July 6, 2020 (edited) 22 hours ago, Izzy said: I had intended to run it off DC as per his but ran into diode forward voltage drop issues which using a decoder via DCC has helped overcome. Your remark made me wonder if this could be solved easily on DC and it can. Just add an extra diode and connect the microswitch like this: If voltage drop over the end switch was your problem of course..... Edited July 6, 2020 by Jan W Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium CF MRC Posted July 6, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 6, 2020 22 hours ago, Izzy said: Yes, John is a very clever chap. I believe he used the design on his previous P4 Mid-Suffolk light railway layouts, Laxfield etc. I had intended to run it off DC as per his but ran into diode forward voltage drop issues which using a decoder via DCC has helped overcome. Izzy John Birkett- Smith used the same idea on Luton Hoo in the early 80s - but it’s probably been re-invented many times. Good idea to have the gates mounted on slightly irregular wire extensions that engage in the brass tube pivot. That way they are protected when, not if, they are rammed by a loco. Tim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Izzy Posted July 6, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 6, 2020 1 hour ago, Jan W said: Your remark made me wonder if this could be solved easily on DC and it can. Just add an extra diode and connect the microswitch like this: If voltage drop over the end switch was your problem of course..... Ah yes, a nice simple solution, thanks. I thought there would be one, but as someone who always struggles with electrics it just passed me by.... Still using the decoder has actually worked out better/easier for me, saving having to mess around with fitting a voltage regulator. Izzy 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Izzy Posted July 6, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 6, 2020 1 hour ago, CF MRC said: John Birkett- Smith used the same idea on Luton Hoo in the early 80s - but it’s probably been re-invented many times. Good idea to have the gates mounted on slightly irregular wire extensions that engage in the brass tube pivot. That way they are protected when, not if, they are rammed by a loco. Tim Yes, a bit like the wheel.... I do have a couple of ideas for protecting the gates. One is a micro-switch that is already fitted that cuts track power before the gates open, and until after they are shut, but it isn’t totally suitable for use in both directions in the particular location the crossing is intended for. Another is a pin that rises and falls with the signal and will stop stock moving too close. That is something to fiddle with when the track has been laid. Izzy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Laurie2mil Posted July 7, 2020 Share Posted July 7, 2020 Remaining in my comfort zone, and stimulated by the last Saturday ZAG, a few thoughts on tiebars. Notanothertiebarsurely?! Nothing very new, none is my own invention (Jerry would vouch for that) - but a variation on materials and the cobbling together. The substrate for this trial was another old recovered point, our old oval rail soldered directly to pcb sleepers. No real difference with Easitrac - bar another 0.25mm on the neck of the pin before the bend, to clear the chairs. The tufnol is a nominal 0.4mm thick carp tufnol (you need carp - it's the finest weave), a narrow strip to slide between the sleepers cyano'd to a wider strip which rests under them. The pins are soft brass, 0.55mm diameter (slightly narrower would be ideal, but that's what I have). Deciding the point to bend them to 90° was trial and error - needs to stop the switch rising but jam it down on the sleepers/chairs. The washers are anything that the pinhead won't go through - 16BA here; the bigger ones underneath are 0.5mm thick but again, that's just what I had. The smaller washers on top were a bit of an experiment - I don't think they add anything to the robustness or function, but they have proved useful to sit the "stretcher" on: this is 0.25mm (the narrowest) plasticard rod, and is obviously purely cosmetic, held in place by a small dob of thick cyano at each end (mind you don't get that between the tufnol and sleepers like I did the first time). I drilled the holes in the tufnol for the pins the same diameter (0.55mm) - guessed where the first would go, fitted the pin through it and offered it up to the (closed) switchblade; opened the other one the right amount (0.7-0.8mm for the flange) and then drilled down beside that. You can make it as long as you like, and put the hole for the operating wire where you like. I haven't done the operating hole on this one, but on reflection, I think I would put the short end on the side where the drive rod comes in, and put the operating wire thro' a hole through the other end. Covering the tufnol outside of the stock rails with a stiffish sheet of paper would allow ballasting to continue over it. trimming the slim top inter-sleeper layer of tufnol 1-2mm outside the pins would allow better concealment with no loss of robustness - 0.4mm tufnol can take an operating wire OK. Paint the top of the tufnol a black/track filth colour and sprinkle a few ballasts on top of that, and I think it will look OK. it would need a shallow hole (c.1mm deep under the whole area of the tufnol, and another mm (5-6mm diameter drill should do it) under the pinheads to clear those. One thing that occurred to me en route - extending the pins beyond the ends of the swichblades allows you to curve them down and flatten them side-to-side where they project back from the toe (a squeeze with pliers) so they look like the extension pieces that the detector rods are attached to on the real thing - need to think of these things now Tony Simms has made facing point locks and detectors for the shop! 6 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold queensquare Posted July 7, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 7, 2020 Great minds and all that Laurie - I was also inspired by last weeks ZAG meeting to dig out some pictures of my tie bar. Its been said before but there are probably almost as many tie bar variations as there are active members! I use a moving sleeper - fibreglass for strength. I use it copper side down and pass a couple of pins through holes in the tie bar and through little chairplates. The pin/chairplate is soldered to the closure rails but is obviously free to pivot. A quick wipe with a rat tail file (something a bit less course than the one I grabbed for the photo) to put a little concave curve on the joint to clear flanges and job done. The hole for the operating wire has a washer or bit of etch scrap soldered on the underside for added strength and in practice Ive not had one break yet. They are very easy to make (I have a little jig for drilling the holes) and fit and have proved to be reliable and unobtrusive in operation. Jerry 4 1 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisveitch Posted July 7, 2020 Share Posted July 7, 2020 1 hour ago, queensquare said: Great minds and all that Laurie - I was also inspired by last weeks ZAG meeting to dig out some pictures of my tie bar. Its been said before but there are probably almost as many tie bar variations as there are active members! I use a moving sleeper - fibreglass for strength. I use it copper side down and pass a couple of pins through holes in the tie bar and through little chairplates. The pin/chairplate is soldered to the closure rails but is obviously free to pivot. A quick wipe with a rat tail file (something a bit less course than the one I grabbed for the photo) to put a little concave curve on the joint to clear flanges and job done. The hole for the operating wire has a washer or bit of etch scrap soldered on the underside for added strength and in practice Ive not had one break yet. They are very easy to make (I have a little jig for drilling the holes) and fit and have proved to be reliable and unobtrusive in operation. Jerry Many thanks for this Jerry. It looked an excellent arrangement and you patiently explained it all to me when I asked about them at last year's (?) York show and I'd basically forgotten everything by the time I got back to the car... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Popular Post Alex Duckworth Posted July 7, 2020 RMweb Premium Popular Post Share Posted July 7, 2020 At the moment just parts piled together, but it's starting to look a bit like Harton No.13. No. 10 lurks behind it. 16 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted July 7, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 7, 2020 They are looking very good Alex, thanks for posting the pictures. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Alex Duckworth Posted July 8, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 8, 2020 Thank you Mike, it's made easier by the excellent fit of your etches. I've been looking with interest at the EE1 that you sent. Alex. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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