Whats on your 2mm Work bench

[justin1985]

When I decided to put together a set of BR Blue era stock to operate my little distillery plank, I enthusiastically took advantage of the novelty (to me) of there being quite a lot of RTR for the BR era! I bought one of the Farish BR standard vans and converted it.

 

But I never actually found it totally convincing. I'm not quite sure what it is about it - perhaps the plank details are too deep? So when I was putting in a shop 2 order, I bought a pair of association kits and etched chassis. Finished the first one last night - just painted with Halfords oxide, Tamiya grey that I happened to have in a spray can for the roof, and decals cobbled together from a random selection of Modelmaster, Railtec and NGS sheets all intended for other things. Weathering all with AK enamel washes.

 

 

Farish on the left, Association on the right. I think the difference is subtle, but worthwhile!

 

J

[queensquare]

1 hour ago, richbrummitt said:

Not had any free time for modelling in a while. When I first saw @Yorkshire Square had printed some H&BR vans I asked if I could have some too. Being a Barnsley lad it makes sense even modelling what I do. They've been attacked with a file a bit so that to my eyes they look more like the drawings in LNER wagons vol.2. (Rightly or wrongly). Comparing to what was available the chassis looked most like MR shop item 2-342 for the central type of V hanger and double brake with a short lever. This morning I got the remainder of the etched chassis parts together and glued to the body. 

 

 

 

Buffers couplings and that gap between the solebar and headstock left to sort prior to painting. 

 

They buff up quite nicely Rich. I went for the single brake shoe with a long handle which was left over from an 1887 PO chassis etch.

The transfers are from an old Woodhead PO set - a bit fat but ok. The number is just made up!

 

Jerry

 

[65179]

1 hour ago, justin1985 said:

When I decided to put together a set of BR Blue era stock to operate my little distillery plank, I enthusiastically took advantage of the novelty (to me) of there being quite a lot of RTR for the BR era! I bought one of the Farish BR standard vans and converted it.

 

But I never actually found it totally convincing. I'm not quite sure what it is about it - perhaps the plank details are too deep? So when I was putting in a shop 2 order, I bought a pair of association kits and etched chassis. Finished the first one last night - just painted with Halfords oxide, Tamiya grey that I happened to have in a spray can for the roof, and decals cobbled together from a random selection of Modelmaster, Railtec and NGS sheets all intended for other things. Weathering all with AK enamel washes.

 

 

Farish on the left, Association on the right. I think the difference is subtle, but worthwhile!

 

J

 

Which washes have you used Justin? The weathering is very effective.

 

It's such a shame that Bachmann see the need to get the trowel out for plank and panel lines. Dimensionally their LNER vans are so much better than the old Parkwood kits, but the latter still look superior side on because of the finer planking.

 

Simon

[Izzy]

3 hours ago, justin1985 said:

When I decided to put together a set of BR Blue era stock to operate my little distillery plank, I enthusiastically took advantage of the novelty (to me) of there being quite a lot of RTR for the BR era! I bought one of the Farish BR standard vans and converted it.

 

But I never actually found it totally convincing. I'm not quite sure what it is about it - perhaps the plank details are too deep? So when I was putting in a shop 2 order, I bought a pair of association kits and etched chassis. Finished the first one last night - just painted with Halfords oxide, Tamiya grey that I happened to have in a spray can for the roof, and decals cobbled together from a random selection of Modelmaster, Railtec and NGS sheets all intended for other things. Weathering all with AK enamel washes.

 

 

Farish on the left, Association on the right. I think the difference is subtle, but worthwhile!

 

J

 

It's interesting to note that the Farish seems to have thicker ironwork but finer rivets while the Parkwood is the opposite and gives the latter a more defined structure with the weathering so looks better even though it might not be so close to scale. Although the new Farish have much better underframes sticking 2mm ones under them still gives an improvement. It's all mix & match isn't it?

 

Izzy

 

[richbrummitt]

55 minutes ago, Izzy said:

 

It's interesting to note that the Farish seems to have thicker ironwork but finer rivets while the Parkwood is the opposite and gives the latter a more defined structure with the weathering so looks better even though it might not be so close to scale. Although the new Farish have much better underframes sticking 2mm ones under them still gives an improvement. It's all mix & match isn't it?

 

Izzy

 

 

The ironwork is what I noticed most between Peco (heavier) and 2mm resin bodied GW vans when compared side to side too and I agree it seems the same here. I trust the originator of the 2mm resin bodies that they are to scale (or as close as technically possible). Parted from each other the Peco doesn't look too bad. Same thing here with BR standard vans.

[justin1985]

4 hours ago, 65179 said:

 

Which washes have you used Justin? The weathering is very effective.

 

 

Thanks Simon! The washes are AK Interactive enamels - mainly "Track Wash" (where track refers to tank tracks, rather than rail!). This seems to make a good general dark reddish dirt colour. I also used some "Dark Brown" from the same range. The pigment (or whatever the term is) seems that bit finer than with normal enamels.

 

I usually put on a pretty liberal overall cost then when touch dry use a large flat brush slightly damp with bog standard B&Q white spirit to take most off, and follow up with a more targeted second coat along ironwork etc, also largely removed when touch dry.

 

Justin

[Chris Higgs]

10 hours ago, richbrummitt said:

 

The ironwork is what I noticed most between Peco (heavier) and 2mm resin bodied GW vans when compared side to side too and I agree it seems the same here. I trust the originator of the 2mm resin bodies that they are to scale (or as close as technically possible). Parted from each other the Peco doesn't look too bad. Same thing here with BR standard vans.

 

We all know in our hearts that the planking gaps at least on all commercial models is massively overscale, perhaps because of technical reasons from the moulding process. Similarly for the roof thickness, and the size of rivets/bolts. It's just we are so used to seeing it it becomes normal. Just go and look at the real thing to see this - the plank lines are almost invisible, and the roofs far thinner than you think. You cannot etch scale thickness plank lines either BTW. So yes, the resin bodies are done to the minimum cutter thickness (the masters were CNC milled, this was long before 3D printing) which was very fine. Similarly GWR Minks have bolts instead of rivets which are incredibly small and no way they could be moulded or etched. I tried mixing and matching resin and etch (for some Mink Banana van additional parts) but soon gave up as it was impossible to get the etch to look anything except crude in comparison.

 

Perhaps people should try filling in the planking with filler or paint to leave just the impression of lines and then repaint.

 

Chris

[Sithlord75]

Only just OMWB as once I fit the DGs to it this evening it will be off the work bench, but I couldn't resist taking a picture of the completed LNWR D15 etch I received back when they were offered on the photo of the inspiration wagon for the finish after I did the 20 transfers last night.  Transfers done by a mate in New South Wales who basically took the scan of the photo and then drew the lettering before printing on his ALPS printer.   Not the best quality of photo I admit but trying to get the light balance right between the glossy page, the painted model and not having the shadow of the camera....

 

[Nigelcliffe]

Thinking its time to give up 2mm and take up jewellery making instead; these would make nice pendants, or maybe cufflinks. 

 

No date for the shop, but first prototype samples before fitting rims and axles.  The recesses in the bogie type may be a little deep, but 2mm wheels are always a compromise with over-scale depth needed to accommodate the tyres.  I need a camera with better macro capabilities than my phone can take.

 

 

- Nigel

[-missy-]

There is something quite cathartic about point building.

 

J.

[Ian Morgan]

OK, I have to ask, what are the tufnel spectacles for?

 

[-missy-]

Hi Ian.

 

25 minutes ago, Ian Morgan said:

OK, I have to ask, what are the tufnel spectacles for?

 

 

Technically its just a 0.5mm gap spacer. The rest of it is just me releasing a bit of design 'steam' really.

 

J.

[Sithlord75]

Almost off the Work Bench - and yes 2mm scale if not 9.42mm gauge!  These are 3 N6.5 coaches designed by moi to go on Microtrains Nn3 boxcar chassis.  Prints by Shapeways.  Roof separate to plug in.  Fittings on roof by Ultima.  Footboards from staples (No 24s but 10s would do) and scrap etch.  Glazing is Krystal Klear.  I need to actually finish off the far side as a couple of the windows popped on the FB and the middle T.  Transfers on doors from Shop 3.  The first set was painted Humbrol 63.  This lot is one of the green rattles - can't remember which but will go and have a look tomorrow and update.

 

[Sithlord75]

3 hours ago, -missy- said:

There is something quite cathartic about point building.

 

J.

What gauge is that? 

[-missy-]

41 minutes ago, Sithlord75 said:

What gauge is that? 

 

4mm Gauge.

 

J.

[-missy-]

55 minutes ago, Sithlord75 said:

Almost off the Work Bench - and yes 2mm scale if not 9.42mm gauge!  These are 3 N6.5 coaches designed by moi to go on Microtrains Nn3 boxcar chassis.

 

 

Oooooh! I like them! Are they based on anything in particular?

 

J.

[Sithlord75]

4 minutes ago, -missy- said:

 

Oooooh! I like them! Are they based on anything in particular?

 

J.

I based them of the TR coaches but they are pretty freelance.  Just like the loco - although I think this set will look better with a black loco, which is presently on @David Hugenholtz's work bench.

 

 

[CF MRC]

On 29/07/2020 at 17:09, Nigelcliffe said:

Thinking its time to give up 2mm and take up jewellery making instead; these would make nice pendants, or maybe cufflinks. 

 

No date for the shop, but first prototype samples before fitting rims and axles.  The recesses in the bogie type may be a little deep, but 2mm wheels are always a compromise with over-scale depth needed to accommodate the tyres.  I need a camera with better macro capabilities than my phone can take.

 

 

- Nigel

Might be a problem with concentricity, looking at the image...
 

Tim

[Jan W]

Simon,

Without the coupling rods it shouldn't be difficult to find the tight spot.

Just turn the worm one revolution at a time and repeat that 30 times (on a 30:1 work that is).

In every position rotate the wheel slightly forward and backwards, without force that is.

There should always be a bit of play between the teeth of the gears and with this method  you can see that for every position of the gears. Check the spur gears and the worm gear of course...

 

Jan

[Nigelcliffe]

18 minutes ago, CF MRC said:

Might be a problem with concentricity, looking at the image...
 

Tim

 

Alan Smith will be assembling some, and then if Alan thinks OK, its off to Keith Gloster with the measuring jig.  

In the hand they look concentric,  the photos are distorted by the phone camera. 

[CF MRC]

12 hours ago, Nigelcliffe said:

 

Alan Smith will be assembling some, and then if Alan thinks OK, its off to Keith Gloster with the measuring jig.  

In the hand they look concentric,  the photos are distorted by the phone camera. 

Just realised that the image looks distorted depending upon whether or not my phone is landscape or portrait.  For some reason your image isn’t compensating for size / orientation. 
Curious, they normally do. 

Tim

[Caley Jim]

33 minutes ago, CF MRC said:

Just realised that the image looks distorted depending upon whether or not my phone is landscape or portrait.  For some reason your image isn’t compensating for size / orientation. 
Curious, they normally do. 

Tim

Just found that it's the same on my phone. I first viewed it on my computer and couldn't understand what Tim was on about. 

 

Jim 

[queensquare]

Well it was on my 2mm bench a few weeks ago but out now and in your local newsagent soon is MRJ 279, the 2mm special edition featuring a fascinating article by the Prof on over thirty years working on CF - get on with it chaps!!

Lots of other 2mm content as well.

 

Jerry

 

 

 

[Ian Morgan]

Some more progress on the Stroudley 4-wheelers. Glazing has been added, recycling a useful clear plastic piece of packaging, fixed in place with UV curing glue, as per my LBSCR brake van.

 

I found some images of the old Peco/Kitmaster carriage interior printed kit on t'Internet, and this was printed out smaller than OO and chopped up to provide a hint of interior detail. Some thin plywood was wrapped in the paper moquette to form the seating, and compartment partitions were glued back-to-back. A sprinkling of chinese import passengers were added. Almost ready for the roofs to be added, when the interior will never be seen again.

 

 

[Lacathedrale]

Finally getting around to building the Masterclass models 24' GWR brake as an AA13:

 

 

To be honest, I doubt this looks ike much to most of you,but for me it feels like a bit of a watershed - all of the lessons learned and advice proffered over the last while seem to have come together to make this such a pleasure to build - @Caley Jim's suggestion of using solder paint, Nick Mitchell's suggestion for attaching the axle boxes and THEN filing off the connective joint, @queensquare's advice to file down the bearing cups to fit into the Masterclass solebar overlays and the list just goes on.  When I first bought it, I looked at the etched sheets and felt like running a mile!

 

I don't think the axle boxes are perfect - without any positive register it was a challenge - but they 'feel' right. I think this is also the first wagon I've built with solebar overlays that went on with them aligned in all three dimensions without spreading out too.