Whats on your 2mm Work bench

[richbrummitt]

1 hour ago, 2mm Andy said:I've got a lot of stuff stored in similar boxes (bought from the chap who used to attend exhibitions with his entire stand piled high with stock boxes).

 

If you are talking of JB model world then I believe he uses closed cell foam (based on conversations I had with him about the packing). I’ve had some of these for enough years to lose count and not suffered. They are all blue boxes that I have rather than the ‘really useful’ type in Julia’s image. He does use these too, but only for larger scales. 

[Ian Morgan]

I have some german Mössmer boxes that are now 35 years old. The blue closed foam is still in perfect condition, but the wooden lids and undersides of the removeable wooden trays had a layer of felt stuck to a thin layer of open cell sponge. The felt used to catch onto couplings, buffers, etc and so I used to lay a sheet of A4 paper over the models before covering them up. The thin layer of sponge has now turned to dust, so I am in the process of replacing the felt and dust with some thin, self-adhesive rubber sheet, which means I no longer need the paper to protect the models.

 

Remember the early Peco wagon in cases surrounded with a foam that eventually turned into a sticky mess if left long enough?

 

[2mm Andy]

2 hours ago, richbrummitt said:

If you are talking of JB model world then I believe he uses closed cell foam (based on conversations I had with him about the packing). I’ve had some of these for enough years to lose count and not suffered. They are all blue boxes that I have rather than the ‘really useful’ type in Julia’s image. He does use these too, but only for larger scales. 

 

Thanks Richard, it was JBs Model World that I got them from - I have the blue A4 boxes like yours. I must admit that I though it was open cell foam that the inserts were made of. I've checked a few of the ones I have and can't see any signs of deterioration.

 

Andy

[2mm Andy]

56 minutes ago, Ian Morgan said:

 

Remember the early Peco wagon in cases surrounded with a foam that eventually turned into a sticky mess if left long enough?

 

 

I did have one Peco box where it did that, but luckily I'd removed the wagon beforehand. I have heard of Peco track underlay doing something similar too.

 

Andy

[nick_bastable]

I use the JB boxes but most of my stock is also laid into acid free tissue ( just in case )

 

Nick B

[-missy-]

15 hours ago, 2mm Andy said:

Hi Julia,

 

That looks very neat. When you say stripping detail, do you mean things like handrails getting snagged on the foam or some sort of reaction with the paintwork on the model? Just asking as I've got a lot of stuff stored in similar boxes (bought from the chap who used to attend exhibitions with his entire stand piled high with stock boxes).

 

Andy

 

Hi Andy.

 

It was because the open cell foam was catching the details on my models and removing them quite efficiently. I have never (yet) had an problems with dissolving foam (thankfully).

 

13 hours ago, richbrummitt said:

If you are talking of JB model world then I believe he uses closed cell foam (based on conversations I had with him about the packing). I’ve had some of these for enough years to lose count and not suffered. They are all blue boxes that I have rather than the ‘really useful’ type in Julia’s image. He does use these too, but only for larger scales. 

Hi Rich.

 

The easiest way of telling if the foam is open or closed cell is to try and breathe through it. If its open cell then you will be able to, closed cell, unable. Checking my 'foam reference chart' (yes, I have one!) the original foam seems to fit either Open Cell Reticulated Polyester 'FR' foam, or Polyester Polyurethane Foam.

 

 

 

Julia

[Donw]

When designing fans we discovered that  replacing the vanes on a fan with a circular strip of open cell foam it would still work as an extractor fan.

 

Don

[-missy-]

 

Buffer beams next. Will probably end up remaking the cab steps too.

 

Julia

[SandHutton]

Hi Julia,

 

The conversion looks brilliant - I particularly like the split rods.   Could you run through the process for creating the 3D printed wheels and the printer you use / resins.  Do you do any finishing to the 3d printed centres once glued to the 2mm rims before securing them to the axles?  Also, which retainer do you use to fix the wheels to the metal axle?  

 

Best Regards

 

Guy

[-missy-]

Hello Guy.

 

They were printed on my Phrozen Sonic Mini 4k printer using eSun Hard Tough Resin.

 

 

I normally add material to the outer faces so I can machine them to size on my lathe. I have noticed that this resin is quite dimensionally stable so, with a bit of tweaking, it might be possible to remove this.

 

 

These were then pressed onto some steel axle material using the 2mmSA quartering jig with a spot of loctite to hold them.

 

Julia.

[Bryn]

Just a quick project to finish off the VBB van I started over 10 years ago, which seems to be the standard time line of recent projects!

 

The main parts being the old Farish VBA body on a Chivers OCA chassis. Etched W irons and brake levers from miscellaneous Association etches and a old TPM 20'9" underframe detailing kit.

 

Weathering is a mix of oils and washes.

 

Prototype inspiration image can be found here.

[-missy-]

40 minutes ago, Bryn said:

 

 

I really like this wagon Bryn. Its beautiful in its blandness. I love the little details you have added too.

 

J.

[Nig H]

Here is the latest on my LMS articulated coaches. Progressing slowly but surely (?). 

 

 

 

A close-up of the articulated joint over the central bogie.

 

 

 

And the underside of the underframes.

 

 

 

I decided to start on the bodies so I could check them for length against the underframes. It might cause problems if the bodies were to close to the articulation point. Mekpak on the underside of the seats has caused the floor to curve upwards slightly as it dried out. I tried using limonene but I couldn't get it to stick properly. I've no idea what the problem was with it.

 

Next job is to paint the seats, floors and tables. Most is hardly visible but I prefer to do it anyway.

 

 

Nigel Hunt

[Caley Jim]

7 minutes ago, Nig H said:

I tried using limonene but I couldn't get it to stick properly. I've no idea what the problem was with it.

I've been having some issues with Limonene too.  I think part of it is the fact that it is not as aggressive as some solvents.  I now coat each surface, wait a few seconds, then apply more to one surface before bringing them together, wait a further few seconds and then squeeze the parts together if I can.  If not, I sometimes also flood down either side of the joint as well.

 

Jim

[Compound2632]

After many years of sticking to Slaters MekPak I've recently taken to di-limonene for welding smaller components (that's everything for you chaps). I've not had any problems; indeed I find it excellent for fixing small etched brass components to plastic, such as wagon strapping. What brand are you using? Mine is from Wizard.

[Kylestrome]

On 05/03/2021 at 16:12, Caley Jim said:

I've been having some issues with Limonene too.

 

I must say, I’ve never understood the fascination with limonene apart from the nice fragrance. My favourite solvent is ‘Mr. Cement S’, which is aggressive but evaporates very quickly. It does its job fast and effectively and I’ve had no problems using it to apply details in 5 thou plastic sheet, for which you only need a very small amount.

 

David.

Edited March 6, 2021 by Kylestrome

[richbrummitt]

I’ve been titivating a plastic moulding for a GW cattle van. This will be one of the rear pair of vehicles in my 2021 Aussie challenge train*, which will comprise 6 (the minimum requirement of) items behind the engine. Maybe I should set up a separate thread for it? 
 

 

I would be building two if I could have located a second chassis 2-363 in the STABLE drawers. 

First step is to exchange the cupboard doors for the etched ones representing an earlier (pre Morton brake) build. Above pic with the old doors removed and below with the replacements inserted. These are part of the DC chassis etch. 
 

 

Is this ‘old school’ modelling now we have 3DP?

 

 

[Caley Jim]

31 minutes ago, richbrummitt said:

Is this ‘old school’ modelling now we have 3DP?

In a word, No!!!!

 

Jim ( very much 'old school' if that is)

[nick_bastable]

38 minutes ago, Caley Jim said:

In a word, No!!!!

 

Jim ( very much 'old school' if that is)

its all modelling only a different approach to achieve the same objective

 

Nick B 

[Caley Jim]

On 05/03/2021 at 15:38, Compound2632 said:

 What brand are you using? Mine is from Wizard.

Mine is Wizard also.

 

Jim

[Nig H]

On 05/03/2021 at 15:38, Compound2632 said:

After many years of sticking to Slaters MekPak I've recently taken to di-limonene for welding smaller components (that's everything for you chaps). I've not had any problems; indeed I find it excellent for fixing small etched brass components to plastic, such as wagon strapping. What brand are you using? Mine is from Wizard.

Hi,

 

The stuff I got is unbranded so maybe its just rubbish. It smells nice though.

 

Nigel Hunt

[Compound2632]

I've only used it on Slaters Plastikard, Evergreen styrene strip and some parts of injection-moulded plastic kits by Ratio, Cambrian, and Slaters. Other plastics may behave differently; there is some variation in the plastic used in those injection moulded kits. But I've not found it to be ineffective on any.

[Caley Jim]

My use of it has all been on Slaters, Plastruct or Evergreen styrene.  Can't say I've noticed any difference between them.

 

Jim

[Bryn]

What started out as a quick weathering job turned out to be a complete underframe rebuild job. Inspired by the Jim Smith-Wright modification carried out in 4mm scale.

 

- Chassis block machined to remove all metal below solebar level 

- Plastic solebar under the cabs cut back and replaced with plasticard sections tapering in towards the centre line of the locomotive

- New fuel tanks and battery boxes scratch built

- Original water tank reworked into a three dimensional shape

- I beam cross supports added to attach the underframe parts to the body 

- Buffer beam detail with missing plough blade

- Modelu driver 

- Weathering with oils, acrylics and powders

 

I'll add a full write up on my blog eventually.

[Compound2632]

26 minutes ago, Bryn said:

What started out as a quick weathering job turned out to be a complete underframe rebuild job. Inspired by the Jim Smith-Wright modification carried out in 4mm scale.

 

I think you've posted in the wrong topic - this is for 2 mm scale modelling, not 7 mm scale.