Popular Post Bryn Posted August 27, 2021 Popular Post Share Posted August 27, 2021 This time a repaint of a Stephen Harris 21T mineral which I built 11 years ago. I was wasn't happy with the old Maskol rust technique it was redone with chipping fluid and oil paints. And here are my 3 recent projects in an arty shot on Colwyn Bay Goods. 19 4 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coal Tank Posted August 28, 2021 Share Posted August 28, 2021 21 hours ago, Bryn said: This time a repaint of a Stephen Harris 21T mineral which I built 11 years ago. I was wasn't happy with the old Maskol rust technique it was redone with chipping fluid and oil paints. And here are my 3 recent projects in an arty shot on Colwyn Bay Goods. Thats very good 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
technohand Posted August 28, 2021 Share Posted August 28, 2021 Hi Missy The boats are likely to be diesel powered and for inshore operation. They could be crabbers so a winch on the side and a shelf near to rest pots on when emptying. A bucket full of fish for rebaiting the pots and a few spare pots, probably rectangular at the period modelled. The boats could also be used for long lining, so buckets of baited lines, a small winch and lots of ice in a big insulated box near the deck hatch. Hoes this helps Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
-missy- Posted August 30, 2021 Share Posted August 30, 2021 On 28/08/2021 at 13:05, technohand said: Hi Missy The boats are likely to be diesel powered and for inshore operation. They could be crabbers so a winch on the side and a shelf near to rest pots on when emptying. A bucket full of fish for rebaiting the pots and a few spare pots, probably rectangular at the period modelled. The boats could also be used for long lining, so buckets of baited lines, a small winch and lots of ice in a big insulated box near the deck hatch. Hoes this helps Tony Hi Tony. Thank you very much, that is really useful information. Until I work out what exactly the boats are I think I will keep them deliberately vague for now. Missy. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Atso Posted September 1, 2021 Popular Post Share Posted September 1, 2021 I've not been well for a little while so modelling has been minimal and sporadic. However, I did manage to knock up some artwork for etching and test built my Gresley ex-GNR BFK Twin. Also on the etch are some sides to convert Minitrix Gresleys into some Restaurant Pantry Thirds as well as a chassis for the N1. Far quicker to build than to design and happily, it went together more or less as I intended. Still plenty to design or scratchbuild. I've also got to work out how to do the guard's duckets but I have an idea for this. I'm pleased with this effort and it isn't a set I've seen in N or 2mm scale before. 20 8 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Atso Posted September 12, 2021 Popular Post Share Posted September 12, 2021 A little more progress on my ex-GNR BFK Twin set. The roofs have been designed, printed, fettled and epoxied onto the bodies. A little bit of filler is going to be needed to hide the slight gap at the out ends but otherwise, I'm pretty pleased with this. 15 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Popular Post Nig H Posted September 24, 2021 RMweb Premium Popular Post Share Posted September 24, 2021 Here are a few more pics of my LNWR 19" Goods. Almost all soldering done now, just a front coupling to do. Then smokebox, chimney and dome to attach. At the moment the running is far from satisfactory so that is the next thing to sort out. Nig H 15 15 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coal Tank Posted September 24, 2021 Share Posted September 24, 2021 5 hours ago, Nig H said: Here are a few more pics of my LNWR 19" Goods. Almost all soldering done now, just a front coupling to do. Then smokebox, chimney and dome to attach. At the moment the running is far from satisfactory so that is the next thing to sort out. Nig H This is Looking really good Nigel 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post -missy- Posted September 25, 2021 Popular Post Share Posted September 25, 2021 Really need some coupings! Julia. 23 1 3 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nick Mitchell Posted September 25, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 25, 2021 At the ZAG this morning, I was playing with a new product which hit Shop 3 a few days ago and popped through my letterbox yesterday - a milled brass 30:1 gearbox. I'm very impressed with it. The worm shaft has standard phosphor bronze frame bushes soldered into the brass frame. When properly assembled in a chassis, the gear will be fitted to a muff, and the muff will rotate in the large hole, ensuring the gearbox is electrically isolated from the frames. Instructions are on the Association website. Here I'm using a 1/8" drill bit so I can slip a skew-cut gear in and out for testing the mesh... in this instance a not-quite-perfect gear from a batch I recently made. The perfect ones were all delivered to the shop earlier this week... 10 6 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
A. Bastow Posted September 25, 2021 Share Posted September 25, 2021 1 hour ago, Nick Mitchell said: At the ZAG this morning, I was playing with a new product which hit Shop 3 a few days ago and popped through my letterbox yesterday - a milled brass 30:1 gearbox. I'm very impressed with it. The worm shaft has standard phosphor bronze frame bushes soldered into the brass frame. When properly assembled in a chassis, the gear will be fitted to a muff, and the muff will rotate in the large hole, ensuring the gearbox is electrically isolated from the frames. Instructions are on the Association website. Here I'm using a 1/8" drill bit so I can slip a skew-cut gear in and out for testing the mesh... in this instance a not-quite-perfect gear from a batch I recently made. The perfect ones were all delivered to the shop earlier this week... Many thanks for this Nick, and those who are un-named who may have worked on this project. Am I correct in thinking that with this I couldn’t drive an additional gear? For instance if this apparatus won’t fit inside the firebox to drive the main axle. Cheers! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sithlord75 Posted September 26, 2021 Share Posted September 26, 2021 That looks like something which will make producing working locos just a little bit easier! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisveitch Posted September 26, 2021 Share Posted September 26, 2021 10 hours ago, Nick Mitchell said: At the ZAG this morning, I was playing with a new product which hit Shop 3 a few days ago and popped through my letterbox yesterday - a milled brass 30:1 gearbox. I'm very impressed with it. The worm shaft has standard phosphor bronze frame bushes soldered into the brass frame. When properly assembled in a chassis, the gear will be fitted to a muff, and the muff will rotate in the large hole, ensuring the gearbox is electrically isolated from the frames. Instructions are on the Association website. Looks like an excellent development, and the instructions are very well produced. One aspect that puzzled me before I read them was how the mounting point would be insulated but the instructions mentioned the 14BA sleeves (3-159) which I'd never noticed before. I don't have a use for them at the moment, but may well acquire some in the anticipation of finding one... Well done to Nick and the Product team again! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nig H Posted September 26, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 26, 2021 10 hours ago, A. Bastow said: Many thanks for this Nick, and those who are un-named who may have worked on this project. Am I correct in thinking that with this I couldn’t drive an additional gear? For instance if this apparatus won’t fit inside the firebox to drive the main axle. Cheers! Hello Adam, Yes that's right. This will provide a single 30:1 ratio with the worm wheel on the driving wheel axle muff. Nigel Hunt 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium CF MRC Posted September 26, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 26, 2021 On 25/09/2021 at 22:02, Nick Mitchell said: At the ZAG this morning, I was playing with a new product which hit Shop 3 a few days ago and popped through my letterbox yesterday - a milled brass 30:1 gearbox. I'm very impressed with it. The worm shaft has standard phosphor bronze frame bushes soldered into the brass frame. When properly assembled in a chassis, the gear will be fitted to a muff, and the muff will rotate in the large hole, ensuring the gearbox is electrically isolated from the frames. Instructions are on the Association website. Here I'm using a 1/8" drill bit so I can slip a skew-cut gear in and out for testing the mesh... in this instance a not-quite-perfect gear from a batch I recently made. The perfect ones were all delivered to the shop earlier this week... That is really excellent and something I suggested many decades ago. Well done all! Tim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
garethashenden Posted September 28, 2021 Share Posted September 28, 2021 That gearbox looks lovely! Can't wait to test it out. It seems to be an area I get stuck on, so I ordered 3! Now I need to actually use them... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yorkshire Square Posted September 29, 2021 Share Posted September 29, 2021 On 25/09/2021 at 23:59, A. Bastow said: Many thanks for this Nick, and those who are un-named who may have worked on this project. Am I correct in thinking that with this I couldn’t drive an additional gear? For instance if this apparatus won’t fit inside the firebox to drive the main axle. Cheers! The plan is to introduce a 38:1 single reduction next and then a 30:1 with secondary reduction. The latter will need a bit more work as our standard gears will be too wide for the block and not leave enough meat for the muffs to run in. 6 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Popular Post t-b-g Posted October 3, 2021 RMweb Premium Popular Post Share Posted October 3, 2021 (edited) The introduction of this gearbox couldn't have come at a better time. Although I work mainly in 4mm EM and dabble a bit in 7mm, my 2mm experience is almost nil. However, I have a friend, Laurie Adams, who is one of "you lot" and having admired his Yeovil Town project I have offered to help him out a bit. He recently obtained a few locos, finished and part built and as there was a Dean Goods amongst the part built ones, I said I would have a go. Initial thoughts were that the tender was complete apart from couplings, a drawbar and a drive shaft from the motor, that the loco mechanism was well advanced and just needed the drive shaft so me efforts would be in building the body, for which there were some components already made, or supplied from the NBrass etched kit. A new footplate, valances and cab were there, to remove the main discrepancies in the kit, which was supposed to go on a RTR chassis and had a rather dodgy wheelbase and widths. Sadly, the initial optimism was dashed as the more I looked, the more I saw that was not quite right. The mechanism and gearbox were not quite square and the frames were not much better. Even the tender needed new outside frames as the old ones were quite thick and the wheel bossed rubbed on them and had no sideplay at all. After much fiddling, I ended up with a free running set of frames and wheels and the motor and drive shaft seemed OK but the loco still wouldn't run well enough to satisfy my/our requirements and it seemed to be down to the home made gearbox. The gears had a bit too much play and could rub and scrape against each other and the sideplates. The way it was built and soldered in made any investigation almost impossible. So this evening, the old gearbox came out and one of the new ones went in. It has transformed the mechanism from scratchy and scraping to silky smooth. I won't know the final result until the drive shaft is refitted and the gearbox is anchored in the frames but it just feels so much better now. As a bonus, it gives room in the firebox for a flywheel too, which the old one had no room for. I have no experience of 2mm components so I am hoping that the motor and gear combination gives good running at slow speeds. If not, the 38:1 or two stage reduction version might be better but it is so close now that I want to press on and see how she goes. So well done to those who have produced the gearbox. It seems to me to be a real top quality item. Edited October 3, 2021 by t-b-g Spelling 16 3 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Laurie2mil Posted October 3, 2021 Share Posted October 3, 2021 Fantastic! It’s been 2 steps forward and 1 (sometimes 2) steps back till now. Thank you +++ , Tony !! Laurie A Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Kylestrome Posted October 4, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 4, 2021 The new gearbox looks very good, but ... If I've understood correctly, the driven axle relies on the plastic muff revolving in holes in the brass block. My first thought is that it won't last very very long on a layout like Copenhagen Fields, or am I being overly pessimistic? David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yorkshire Square Posted October 4, 2021 Share Posted October 4, 2021 26 minutes ago, Kylestrome said: The new gearbox looks very good, but ... If I've understood correctly, the driven axle relies on the plastic muff revolving in holes in the brass block. My first thought is that it won't last very very long on a layout like Copenhagen Fields, or am I being overly pessimistic? David Hi David I don't think any locos last long on CF, but they have top secret agents building and rebuilding their locos to highly classified specs. The axle muffs are the same material as the worms which mesh, with a much smaller surface area, with the brass gear wheel. They won't last forever, but ought to be robust enough for those of us with small or medium sized layouts. We will see... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium t-b-g Posted October 4, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 4, 2021 39 minutes ago, Kylestrome said: The new gearbox looks very good, but ... If I've understood correctly, the driven axle relies on the plastic muff revolving in holes in the brass block. My first thought is that it won't last very very long on a layout like Copenhagen Fields, or am I being overly pessimistic? David I can understand the concern but if the gearbox is installed with a bit of thought about future maintenance, being able remove it would make the task of having to replace the axle muff fairly easy. I think there has to be a trade off between the simplicity and ease of use against the potential for wear. I can't think of an easy way to remove the metal to plastic rubbing contact area without making it more complex to produce the components, then for the user to build and install it. It would be interesting to see just how long one would last on Copenhagen Fields, which seems to me to be the ultimate destruction testing facility for mechanisms. It is rather like Retford in EM. A proper "loco killer". 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigelcliffe Posted October 4, 2021 Share Posted October 4, 2021 5 hours ago, t-b-g said: I can't think of an easy way to remove the metal to plastic rubbing contact area without making it more complex to produce the components, then for the user to build and install it. I've a thought - steel tube, O/D to fit gears and gearbox, I/D to fit a thinner muff, such as those used for bogie/tender wheels (2.3mm dia, so with a 3mm O/D tube, that's a wall thickness of 0.35mm, which isn't a silly thing to make). Does rely on the thin muff being concentric with its centre, which needs checking (historically, some 2mm shop muffs are concentric inner to outer, some are not because it doesn't matter in their original intended use). That said, the plastic used for the muffs will probably outlast most locos running times. Only those with large layouts run locos for any significant distances. - Nigel 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium CF MRC Posted October 4, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 4, 2021 (edited) Absolutely no problem with that gearbox design. The Baldwin 2-6-0 on CF has that design with the rear driven axle having an acetal muff-mounted gear box. That loco had a gear box re-engineering on a worn out brass/steel bearing about 50 miles ago, the final drive was fine. The loco has probably done well in excess of 200 miles now over 25 years of running. You would obviously need to make sure there were no rough edges to wear the plastic. Tim Edited October 4, 2021 by CF MRC 4 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryn Posted October 4, 2021 Share Posted October 4, 2021 Another play with oil paint rendering for weathering. This time on a rewheeled N gauge 36T class B tank from Revolution. Two more to go... 13 1 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now